MR. LADD’S JOURNAL.
Monday, Jan. 2.—A good breeze sprang up in the night and we were off. The rocks were reached about 8 A.M. Here we found a number of sunken rocks extending for some three or four miles. We passed the junction of the Atbara, the first tributary of the Nile, at 9 A.M. It is a good, fair stream where it joins the main river. Just above the mouth of the Atbara there is an island called Fatlab. A few miles beyond the island, and not at the mouth of the Atbara, as on most maps, is the town of Darner on the east side. Here we stopped about an hour and a half for fresh provisions. The sailors bought salt, etc., on speculation, while Doctor and I wandered about picking up flints on the desert on which the town is built, and chatting with an Arab we met, who happened to understand a few words of French. The sailors here begged us so hard to let them put up the stars and stripes that we finally relented from our former purpose and consented, provided we sailed into Khartoum under the Egyptian flag. We found that the men were inclined to stop here too long, in order to drive sharp bargains for their own profit, and at the end of an hour and a half we ordered them to start, much against their own will. There was not a man of them who understood the first thing about sailing, and when we attempted to start, their management was so bad that we turned around like a top, and had to make the shore again and take a fresh start. The banks along here are thickly studded with “sakias,” which make night as well as day musical with their continuous squeak and groan. We passed a number of huts and a town called Gelase. There are several large islands in the river along here. The wind died down as we reached one of the largest of them, called Zaidab, and we tied up to its banks for the night.
Tuesday, Jan. 3.—The morning has been unusually cool. The men were lazy, and did not start with the first breeze. They require more urging than is pleasant. We have seen great numbers of crocodiles. Doctor has a cold and headache. Stopped “to get wood.” Stopped again “to get greens.” This time was righteously indignant and told the men they would not stop again while the wind blew. A sharp bend in the river. The town of Sigada on the west side. Low mountains in the distance on the east side. As we approached them we found that they come close to the river. Sandstone and limestone rocks. Miserable sailing! The worst I ever saw. We had a fine breeze, and yet the sails were set in such a way that they flapped and threatened to turn inside out. Stood it as long as I could, then took things into my own hands and ordered the sails set to suit me. All at once, in the afternoon, the main sheet broke, and away went the sail. The men stood and looked at it, hoping it would somehow get right, while we floated down stream. Saw about 20 ft. of high bank cave in with a great splash. The pyramids of Meroe came in sight. We counted eight of them. This would be an interesting spot to visit, but relic hunting is not our business just now. A large island stands in front of them. We saw five large crocodiles sunning themselves on a point of land. Doctor shot at one of them, and the result was that he hurried off into the water. The nights are beautiful. It is full moon, and so we sail on while the wind lasts. While everything was going nicely, and our course as plain by moonlight as by day, the men suddenly got frightened. They thought there was a sand-bar just ahead. The rudder was put hard over. We went clear to the other side of the river, where they actually managed to find a bar and stick on it. Then they had to pole back to where they were before, and found their former course all right. These men really do not know any more about managing a boat than the man in the moon.
Wednesday, Jan. 4.—Was up in the night to see about the sailing. Dared not trust the men. We have had a good breeze, but made miserable time. We stopped a little while for wood, and then stood out with a good wind. A merchant boat came up in the rear, passed us, and left us far behind. The Doctor is feeling rather poorly. We reached Shendy about noon, and were fully an hour in passing it. This is a large town. We saw about a thousand cattle on the bank, and camels coming and going. The larger proportion of the houses that are visible from the river have been destroyed by the rains and stand in ruins. This is said to be a very healthy place, and it has every appearance of it. The desert comes to the river. About eight fine sycamore trees in one place on the bank make a fine site for a building. There are other trees near. A wall has been built along the river to protect the bank. Here we saw a number of whirlwinds carrying the desert sand hundreds of feet into the air. The town of El Metammeh, on the west side, and a few miles farther up the river is a very large place—said to be larger than Berber. Here also the desert comes to the river. The town stands back a little, and the banks are not quite so high. We rounded a point. A fine wind was blowing, but the men insisted that they must put to shore “to pick up the sail,” or in other words tighten the rigging. Soon after I found them sitting on the bank contemplating the rigging instead of working at it, and sailed into them lively. They soon had it done.
Thursday, Jan. 5.—Passed some high hills during the night. We have had a fine breeze nearly all night and all the morning. We passed some sandstone rocks on the west bank, which come to the water’s edge. These are nearly opposite to Ben Naga. We have run upon a sand-bar twice. Saw a large number of crocodiles of immense size. A man on shore hailed us frantically, and wanted us to take a quantity of butter for him to Khartoum! As though the Governor’s boat, with two Americans on board, impatient to get along, was going to be turned into a merchant vessel! The men were a little inclined to stop, but we ordered them to go on, and the poor fellow was left on the bank swinging his arms like a windmill and getting red in the face. We are passing through a fine grazing country. A new man suddenly turns up on board, who understands sailing and steering a little better than the others. Where he came from we do not know, but suspect that he was picked up at the last place where we stopped. Now we are making better time. We reached the beginning of the “cataract” at 2:20 P.M. We had a fine wind and plenty of time before sunset, but the captain was afraid to go on and made a variety of foolish excuses. We landed and made inquiries, and finding there was no danger ordered him to proceed at once. We found a few rocks and some sand banks, but there was not the slightest difficulty. We passed some beautiful islands covered with trees and festooning vines and high grass. By sunset we had passed most of the rocks, and then the wind ceasing, and the men being tired, we allowed them to tie up for the night. Ducks are plenty about here. The Garri Mountains are in sight.
Friday, Jan. 6.—Good breeze. Passed several rocks and small islands. Rounded a large island and entered a wild romantic gorge, with rocky mountains rising high on each side straight from the river, which is here reduced to a very narrow channel. This winding gorge, or gap, extends several miles, and it is called Sebeloga. Came to and circled the largest island we have yet seen, called Rowyan. There is a rocky mountain upon it. Passing out from the gorge there are a few rocks in the river. On our left, or east bank, we saw a round mountain called Wad El Bassal, or “Son of the Onion.” The wind has been fair and square astern, but the men have managed the sail so badly that it has actually turned inside out. This is not the safest performance in a strong wind, and we thought it was about time to take things into our own hands and ordered the sail around where it ought to be, and threatened to take full charge of the boat. We have found two men on board without our permission, but concluded to let it go. At one watering-place we saw 25 flocks of sheep, goats, cows, etc., averaging 300 in a flock! We have left the mountains behind us. While sailing along before a good breeze all of a sudden the main brace broke and over went the sail, nearly upsetting the whole thing and knocking everybody overboard. We are growing resigned, and are now ready for almost anything. Once more, after getting things straight again, the sail, with a fair wind, was allowed to turn inside out!! The wind went down, and we went ashore. After awhile it blew again, and we were off. Passed the bluff of Termaniat. Thermometer to-day: Sunrise, 60°; noon, 81°; sunset, 70°.
EGYPTIANS OF UPPER EGYPT.
Saturday, Jan. 7.—Fine breeze. Sailed at good speed. The banks here were lower, and the river broader. Low hills to the right. We were approaching Khartoum. There were several islands, and then we got a long view up the White Nile. We rounded the point of a large island, and turned into the clearer waters of the Blue Nile. The flags were up, and we expected to sail into Khartoum in grand style, but the wind was so strong from the north that we had to be towed up along the steep southern bank. We went bumping along, running into everything that it was possible to run into, amid a babel of sounds. Everybody seemed to think it necessary to yell at everybody else. Amid the confusion, as we were coming smash down upon another boat, Ibrahim called to two well-dressed young fellows, who were lounging on the other boat, to help push off. They heard, but were too lazy to move. He waited till he was near enough, and then suddenly pounced upon them with his stick, and dealt them several sharp blows. One fled precipitately one way, and the other jumped into the river. I did not know but he would drown, but he soon reached the bank, where the crowd had a good laugh at his expense. All along the shore native women, with only a rag on, were washing clothes; some without a rag on were washing themselves. Finally we reached our landing-place, and tied up. We had reached Khartoum at last! The American consul, a rich, one-eyed Copt, stood on the bank waiting for us. He soon came on board. Congratulations and compliments were exchanged. He offered to do anything and everything for us. We told him the first thing we wanted was our letters. They were sent for at once. I had seven! We sat right down and devoured them. Not a word had we heard since leaving Cairo, and now here was a feast. Better than cold water to a thirsty soul was the good news from home. We went, at the consul’s invitation, to see the quarters he had kindly provided for us in one of his own houses. The rooms were really very nice for this country. On the whole, our first impressions of Khartoum were very pleasant. There was no apparent reason why it should not be healthy if properly cared for. The desert stretched away on all sides, both on the north and south banks of the Blue Nile. There seemed to be considerable business along the river bank. There were crowds of merchant boats loading and unloading. There were eight steamers lying here. We noticed a number of very good buildings facing the river. We have just heard of a formidable insurrection south of here, on the White Nile, and in the vicinity of Fashoda, in which 600 or more soldiers have already been killed. After returning to our dahabeah, the consul sent us a present of oranges, pomegranates and milk. After a while he called again with several others. He certainly showed himself very anxious to please us. He has placed his house at our disposal, free of charge, for any length of time we choose to occupy it. He and his suite waited for us till after dinner. Then we packed up what was necessary and, following the lanterns, went up to our new quarters. Here every possible comfort had been very thoughtfully provided. The doctor kindly insisted on my having the best room as a sort of “divan,” or place in which to receive company. A guard was provided for us, who slept at our door, as the rest were to stay on board over night. Three pretty gazelles were running about the yard in the moonlight, and looking in at our doors. Temperature: Sunrise, 60°; noon, 81°; sunset, 74°.