CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS.
Disbudding.—This operation does not appear to be sufficiently recognised in its proper sense as distinguished from pruning and pinching. In performing these latter operations we remove a portion of the growing shoot, in the former case the young bud is removed as soon as it can be rubbed off. These operations are therefore quite distinct, and their distinction is of much importance. Most fruit cultivators are aware that trees suffer materially by suddenly depriving them of a large portion of foliage while in active growth, and expedients are resorted to in order to render the operation less injurious. In spring when the buds burst, attention should be directed to the quantity of young shoots desirable either for fruit or uniformity of growth; these being secured all others should immediately be rubbed off. As growth proceeds luxuriant shoots are stopped or their points pinched off, removing more or less of the shoot, according to the object to be attained. If the plant is very luxuriant, more leaves may be removed and if every shoot upon a tree is operated on in this manner it amounts to a severe check on its growth. In the case of young trees, or weakly ones, where a certain form is desired, the young growing point should be bruised without removing any of the elaborating foliage, securing density of habit without any perceptible check of growth. Suppose a shoot that has grown 12 or 14 inches to be pinched back one half of its length, the uppermost bud will burst again and the others remain comparatively dormant; but allowing the same shoot to have been checked in its longitudinal growth, by pinching or bruising its extreme point, it will be found that all the lower buds will be benefitted and several additional shoots produced. We have alluded to this subject more particularly at present as we are aware of having occasionally made use of the term pinching when disbudding would have been the more appropriate expression.
Strawberries.—Preparations should now be in progress for securing plants for early forcing next spring. Various methods are adopted to get strong plants, such as filling small pots with rich soil and plunging them in the strawberry patch, introducing a young plant on the pot, and removing into larger ones when rooted. Others again prepare full sized pots at once and place them in this manner, securing the young plant in both cases with a small stone laid on the surface. When close attention is paid in watering, these plans are good. An equally successful and less troublesome method is to prepare a few square yards of ground in a somewhat sheltered situation, manuring it well and digging deeply, and filling it thickly with young plants. They should be partially shaded for a few days, and duly watered. In the course of three or four weeks they will lift with good balls of earth and are potted at once in fruiting pots. Pistilo-staminate or hermaphrodite varieties are found to produce better when forced early than pistillate sorts.
Root pruning of fruit trees is sometimes commendable, and the present is the proper season for its more immediate beneficial effects. It is mostly performed on young vigorous trees that show no disposition to fruit. By cutting away some of the strongest roots at this time the supply of sap will be lessened and the wood ripening process accelerated. No fruit need be expected from badly ripened wood. In nine cases out of ten the non-appearance of fruit on healthy trees arises from this cause. Mild autumn weather induces growth to a late period and sudden frosts arrive before the wood is sufficiently matured. This is more particularly noticeable on soils inclined to be wet, and here again we perceive the necessity of underground drains, in order to remove surplus water. It is an exceedingly erroneous idea that drains are worse than useless in localities where long droughts are of frequent occurrence. The truth is that draining enhances humidity during hot weather, since it enables the soil to exercise its absorbing properties to the fullest extent, there being more air in the soil water is retained in its pores, constituting a reservoir holding a lasting supply when other sources fail.
Renovating Old Trees.—Most satisfactory results have been obtained from old and apparently worn out trees by changing the soil about their roots, or applying a top dressing of wood ashes, guano, salt and plaster in equal quantities, allowing about one bushel of the mixture to each tree. If nothing better is convenient, a heavy dressing of well made barn manure forked in about the roots will have a decided effect. The absorbing points of the roots extend a considerable distance from the trunk, therefore, the principal part of the top dressing should embrace a circumference at least equal to that of the branches. It might be considered unnecessary to mention this very apparent fact, were it not usual to observe manure applied to the stem instead of the roots.
Grapes under glass will now be approaching maturity. Dryness both in soil and atmosphere favors this process, still they must not be allowed to suffer for want of moisture should the weather prove dry. The young growth may be stopped more rigidly as the ripening process proceeds. This will concentrate the sap and strengthen the buds for a future crop, if pinched back too severely these buds may start into growth, which must be guarded against.
Out-door grapes will require attention in thinning out lateral shoots and stopping others especially those on bearing shoots. Thinning out the berries is seldom practised on these, nor, indeed is it always necessary. Occasionally, however, the berries are so thickly placed that room is not afforded them to swell out and ripen properly. By thinning out a few of the most central and smallest berries, the fruit will ripen earlier and be much improved both in size and flavor.
S. B.
AUGUST.
Flower Garden and Pleasure Ground.
This is the month many prefer to plant their evergreens, and it is perhaps as good a time as any. Take advantage of a “wet spell” for the operation. Be particularly careful that as many roots as possible are preserved. If this can be well attended to, trees of any size can be moved successfully. It becomes a question of power—of profit and loss. If any amount of power can be applied, and expense is no object, the largest trees will move as easily as small ones. In moving an evergreen 20 feet high, I commence to open my “trench” 10 feet from the base of the trunk, go down about two feet, and continue to undermine and lay bare the roots their full length, right up to the collar of the tree. I care nothing for “ball of earth.” If I have a good supply of hands at the job, I only care to keep them aside a little to prevent injury by the operations of the workmen. If I have but few men, I roll the long roots, as fast as they are exposed, in mats to keep them moist. For mechanical means and adaptations to take out the tree and convey it to its destination, an intelligent workman is never at a loss. Trees taken up in this manner scarcely miss the change; and besides after they are transplanted they require no staking, as they are capable of withstanding the strongest wind through their long roots.
The broom should be well applied to lawns at this season of the year, even more sedulously than in spring. Many species of weed become so dwarfed by the summer’s drought, that they flower and fruit below the reach of the scythe, and can only be kept down by the hard sweeping. I have seen some lawns almost ruined by these weeds, especially by one of the nettle tribe. (Pilea pumila.)—Conclusion in next number.
It is a pity that the rules adopted by Florists are so very rigid, that unless a flower equals a certain standard in shape and markings it must be rejected. Last week we had submitted to us by Mr. T. F. Croft, a beautiful seedling Verbena, a lilac with a broad stripe of white down each petal, quite distinct and very handsome, but the petals were too narrow, leaving a large space between each one. This must condemn it as a Florist’s flower, but to all who want a handsome and distinct variety it will be desirable. He calls it his No. 3. It is in style of Iphigenie.
The article on Tile draining in the last number should have been credited to the Ohio Cultivator. We never intentionally copy articles without credit. We wish that Dr. Warder of the Western Horticultural Review were as conscientious.
Errata.—In the report of the Maryland Horticultural Society, the Winter Bon Chretien pears were shown by Mr. Fuss, not Mr. Feast as printed. The premium for strawberries was for “the best 4 distinct varieties, 1 quart each”.