MENU FOR MARCH.
- Julienne Soup.
- Boiled Cod; Sauce Maître d’Hôtel, and Potatoes.
- Roast Guinea-fowl; Chicory Salad.
- Savoury Omelette.
- Stewed Pears and Rice.
Julienne Soup.—The foundation of this must be strong clear stock, and preferably that which is made from a knuckle of veal, using a little Liebeg’s Essence to make it a deeper colour at the last. This should be strained and left to keep hot in a lined saucepan, while the vegetables are stewing in a separate pan. There is an art in shredding the vegetables for julienne soup, and they are best done with one of the little tools sold for the purpose, as the beauty of the soup depends on their being cut exactly alike. A fair quantity of vegetables will be required, enough to give the soup a pronounced character. When quite tender, these may be put into the tureen with the seasoning and flavouring, and the hot stock poured over.
Maître d’Hôtel Butter is made by melting about a quarter of a pound of salt butter in a saucepan and adding to it two tablespoonfuls of minced parsley, chervil and tarragon, with a shallot to give flavour. Simmer these well together, and before using add a few drops of vinegar, and some pepper and more salt if required.
Steam the potatoes if possible and garnish the cod with them.
When we speak of boiled fish by the way, we mean simmered fish, for it should never be allowed to actually boil, or it will be tough and flavourless. Very great care is needed in cooking all boiled articles of food.
Chicory Salad, which is, of course, made from the chicory that comes to us from abroad, requires a cream dressing. This should be made by mixing the yolk of an egg with oil and cream, a spoonful of made mustard, and a few drops of tarragon vinegar. Beat these ingredients together until they resemble a thick cream, and pour over the chicory (which should be cut into convenient lengths) at the last moment.
A guinea-fowl takes about the same time to roast as an ordinary fowl, and requires to be well basted. Serve fried crumbs with it.
Savoury Omelette.—When the art of making a plain omelette has been acquired, it is easy to ring the changes of variety. The additions that transform it into a savoury are, minced chives (or shallots), chervil, tarragon and parsley; in France this is called an omelette aux fines herbes. Four eggs would be needed to make one of a sufficient size for a dinner. Beat these on a plate with a knife and add the salt and pepper to them, also a very little milk. Pour into the omelette pan when the butter is beginning to turn colour, as the right point of heat has much to do with the ultimate success. Slip the knife under it a time or two, but as soon as the mixture shows signs of “setting,” it should be left alone for a minute longer, then the pan should be put into a very hot oven for another minute, to raise the surface, then folded over and slipped out of the pan on to a very hot dish. The savoury herbs should be added to the eggs at the beginning. Lose not a moment of time in bringing an omelette to table once it is cooked.
To boil rice successfully is not the easiest thing in the world. The water, of which there should be a large pan three parts full, must be boiling to begin with; then, while this is getting ready, the rice, after washing, should be soaking in cold water. Put plenty of salt in the pan. Boil the rice until it is tender enough to crush the grains between the thumb and finger, then pour off into a colander; pour more water through this until every grain is well separated, then return the rice to the saucepan, cover it tightly, and let it steam gently for half an hour. It ought then to be perfectly soft, yet every grain free from the other.
All rice, macaroni, and foods of this kind need to be extremely well cooked, otherwise they are anything but digestible.
[HIGH-CLASS SWEETMEATS.]
Whatever the season, sweetmeats, especially high-class confections, are always in favour, most girls finding them delectable when sitting over the fire as when resting in a hammock.
I purpose telling the readers of the “G. O. P.” therefore some delightful recipes which I guarantee will not only be reasonable in price, but will look professional enough to enable you to refill any empty bonbon boxes you may possess as acceptable presents for your girl friends. But you must be very careful to follow my instructions most minutely, for like most handiwork it is the attention to details that ensures success. As space forbids I can only give the two following dainties as examples of what may be accomplished at home. They are Marrons glaces and Marzipane varieties.
Marrons Glaces.—For these take one quart of chestnuts, and after removing the outer skin cover with water, boil gently till soft thirty minutes to one hour, depending upon the kind of chestnuts. The Italian chestnut is the best for keeping its shape. Peel very carefully and put into a pan with any broken pieces there may be on the top.
Make a syrup of one pound of sugar and a quarter of a pint of water, boil briskly for five minutes or until it threads; by which I mean the syrup will form a tiny thread on dipping the finger and thumb in cold water and then into the syrup. Let this cool and then pour over the nuts and leave for thirty-six hours in a warm place, or longer if more convenient. Lift the nuts out and drain. Now another syrup must be made of one pound of sugar, a quarter of a pint of water, and one pinch of cream of tartar. Boil quickly for seven minutes; this time the thread must be thicker, and if registered by the thermometer it would be 250°. Take off the fire and place the nuts in carefully, and merely bring to the boil. Stir the syrup most gently and then lift out and drain them. When dry they are ready. Little paper cases make them look more dainty; they can be got at any large stationer’s.
A few hints on making syrup I think are necessary here before going to the next recipe. The first point to attend to is the saucepan, which should be perfectly clean and of strong enough material to prevent the syrup being likely to burn, and for this reason enamelled saucepans are not to be recommended. Then care must be taken not to let the syrup grain, which is the technical term for syrup crystallising again. A clean paint-brush or piece of rag dipped in water to wipe the sides of the pan. Skim carefully. Boil quickly, and do not stir, as stirring causes graining. For those who can afford a thermometer I should strongly advise its purchase; it simplifies the process of boiling syrup as it is much more accurate.
Marzipane Varieties.—Marzipane is made in various ways, but the recipe I intend giving is one that may be depended upon and will give satisfaction. One and a half pounds of almonds, two pounds of sugar, four eggs (whites only), half a saltspoon of cream of tartar, half a pint of water.
Make a syrup of the sugar, water and cream of tartar, boil for seven minutes in the same way as for marrons glaces. Stir in at once the ground almonds; if these be prepared at home the flavour is improved; those already prepared cost 1s. 4d. per pound, and answer very well. In either case add a few drops of almond essence and one teaspoonful of orange-flower water. Now put in the eggs, without beating; these must be stirred in off the fire and then returned to cook them slightly. You will find the quantities given make a large amount of marzipane; it may be considerably reduced, say to one-fourth, if desired. After the mixture is made, turn out on to a very large meat dish or marble slab (which is better) and work it with a wooden spoon until it is cool enough to knead with the hands. When worked enough it should look and be of the consistency of a nice dough. The next thing is to divide the marzipane in three or four portions. Colour and flavour each differently—cochineal, coffee, vegetable sap green are all suitable, and one portion may be left its natural colour. Work the colours in most thoroughly, as a streaky appearance would spoil the whole effect. To make diamonds—take a piece of each of the colours and roll out about a quarter of an inch, damp each slightly with a little white of egg and place on top of each other. Rice paper can be bought quite reasonably at any good confectioner’s. A small sheet of this damped and placed both at the top and bottom of the square of marzipane makes a professional finish to the diamonds. Leave an hour or two till quite dry, then with a sharp knife cut into slices half an inch wide and cut crosswise into diamonds. I must only give suggestions for several other varieties. Farced fruits, for example, farced being the term used to express stuffed; we will take French plums as an instance. Cut the plum carefully down the middle and remove the stone; cut a piece of marzipane about as large as a nut, roll in the palms of the hands till smooth and oblong, place right inside to show a little of the marzipane only. Cherries, raisins, etc., are all done in this way.
Another way to use the marzipane. Detach a piece of it as large as a filbert and roll again between the palms till smooth, and stick half a walnut on each side, or the walnut may be completely covered with the marzipane. Almonds may be used in the same way. Do not forget that all these goodies look much nicer if placed in small paper cases. Also when arranging them in rows with a little fold of white paper between each row. These do not by any means exhaust the sweets that can be made at home with profit and without undue labour.