Florence As It Was in 1820.
By Anne Royal.
(The following account of Florence, written two years after the town was laid off, will be interesting to all.—Ed.)
Florence is one of the new towns of this beautiful and rapid rising State. It is happily situated for commerce at the head of steamboat navigation, on the north side of the Tennessee River, in the county of Lauderdale, five miles below the port of the Mussel Shoals, and ten miles from the line of the State of Tennessee.
Florence is to be the great emporium of the northern part of this State. I do not see why it should not; it has a great capital and is patronized by the wealthiest gentlemen in the State. It has a great State at its back; another in front, and a noble river on all sides, the steamboats pouring every necessary and every luxury into its lap. Its citizens, bold, enterprising, and industrious—much more so than any I have seen in the State.
Many large and elegant brick buildings are already built here, (although it was sold out, but two years since), and frame houses are putting up daily. It is not uncommon to see a framed building begun in the morning and finished by night.
Several respectable mercantile houses are established here, and much business is done on commission also. The site of the town is beautifully situated on an eminence, commanding an extensive view of the surrounding country and Tennessee River, from which it is three-quarters of a mile distant. It has two springs of excellent and never failing water. Florence has communication by water with Mississippi, Missouri, Louisiana, Indiana, Illinois, Ohio, Kentucky, West Pennsylvania, West Virginia and East Tennessee, and very shortly will communicate with the Eastern States, through the great canal. The great military road that leads from Nashville to New Orleans, by way of Lake Ponchartrain, passes through this town, a number of people who travel through it, and the numerous droves of horses from the lower country, for market, are incredible. Florence contains one printing press, and publishes a paper weekly called the Florence Gazette; it is ably patronized, and edited by one of our first men, and said to be the best paper in the State. Florence is inhabited by people from almost all parts of Europe and the United States; here are English, Irish, Welsh, Scotch, French, Dutch, Germans and Grecians. The first Greek I ever saw was in this town. I conversed with him on the subject of his country, but found him grossly ignorant. He butchers for the town, and has taken to his arms a mullatto woman for a wife. He very often takes an airing on horseback of a Sunday afternoon, with his wife, riding by his side, and both arrayed in shining costumes.
The river at Florence is upwards of five hundred yards wide; it is ferried in a large boat worked by four horses, and crosses in a few minutes.
There are two large and well kept taverns in Florence, and several doggeries. A doggery is a place where spiritous liquors are sold; and where men get drunk, quarrel and fight, as often as they choose, but where there is nothing to eat for man or beast. Did you ever hear anything better named. “I swear!” said a Yankee pedler, one day, with both his eyes bunged up, “that are doggery be rightly named. Never seed the like on’t. If I get to hum agin it’l be a nice man’l catch me in these here parts. Awfullest place one could be at.” It appeared the inmates of the doggery enticed him under pretense of buying his wares, and forced him to drink; and then forced him to fight; but the poor little Yankee was sadly beaten. Not content with blackening his eyes, they overturned his tin cart, and scattered his tins to the forewinds, frightened his horse and tormented his very soul out about lasses, etc. He was a laughable object, but to hear his dialect in laying off the law, was a complete farce, particularly when Pat came to invite him into the same doggery to drink friends: “I ben’t a dog to go into that are dog house.”
The people, you see, know a thing or two, here; they call things by their right names. But to proceed. There may be about one hundred dwelling houses and stores, a court house, and several warehouses in Florence. The latter are, however, on the river. One of the longest buildings I ever saw is in Florence. It was built by a company of gentlemen, and is said to have cost ninety thousand dollars, and is not yet finished. The proprietors, being of this place, are men of immense wealth, and are pushing their capital with great foresight and activity. For industry and activity, Florence outstrips all the northern towns in the State. More people travel this road than all our western roads put together. I was just going to conclude, when an old German passing through my room, from that of my landlady’s, made me laugh, in reply to something uttered by the lady, he said: “Poverty was no crime, when came honestly by it.”
More of Florence. I observed in my last, the surprising wealth of this place. The principal gentlemen of wealth are General Coffee, James Jackson, Esq., Major McKinley (now a Senator in Congress from Alabama), and Messrs. Simpson and Gaither. Of these J. Jackson is said to be not only wealthy, but the wealthiest man in the State. There are, however, many others quite easy in their circumstances. General Coffee, and J. Jackson live out of town. Major McKinley lives in Florence, and is reputed to be the first lawyer in the three States. He is a stout, fine looking man; of easy manners, as all gentlemen are; and his dwelling contains more taste and splendor, by one-half, than I ever saw in my whole life put together. But this is nothing. Mrs. McKinley, the elegance of her manners, and the sweetness of her conversation, joined with her interesting children, completely disconcerted me. Everything in the house had, to me, the appearance of enchantment. I never was in such a paradise before. Mrs. McKinley looked as though she had dropped from above. I never was more confounded. And the children. They are truly a pattern. The dear little things were in the nursery, and hearing there was a stranger in the parlor, prevailed on the nurse to open the door, a few inches, that they might see who was there, but they were instantly upbraided by their mother. Make these a pattern for your children, if you should have any. I begged admission for the dear creatures, and they were admitted upon condition of good behavior. They were the handsomest children I ever beheld, and I was so completely fascinated by their manners, I forget every thing else. Mrs. McKinley informed me she was from Philadelphia, and was acquainted with Mrs. Dr. Charles Lewis.
All the ladies of Florence excel in the domestic virtues. No gadding abroad. They demean themselves with that modesty and attention to their domestic affairs, beyond any ladies I have seen in the State. Mrs. Coffee (a niece of Mrs. General Jackson), comes to preaching in a plain bonnet and calico dress. General Coffee was here since I arrived, and appears to be much reduced since I saw him in Huntsville. His constitution was much injured by the hardships he suffered in the army. I was never in speaking of James Jackson. It is said he is a native of Ireland. Mrs. Ward, Mrs. Gibson and Mrs. Southworth, the printer’s wife, and several others, are charming women. Captain Gibson, a son of the brave Colonel Gibson, of Tennessee, is one of the most amiable men on earth.
It is unaccountable why such a number of physicians should flock into this country. Every town is flooded with them. They are strung along the roads like so many blacksmith’s shops. You can either walk or ride, but you have a physician on each side, one in front, and one in rear. Here are seven in Florence, seven more went away for want of room. There are also here, six lawyers. I left thirteen doctors in Courtland, a much smaller place. One hundred passed through the latter, south, unable to get in. You cannot, as I stated before, travel a mile on any great road, without meeting with a doctor’s shop. But this is not all. Almost every practising doctor has three or four students. I have known mechanics quit their trade and commence the study of medicine.
Florence, Alabama
THE COMING CITY OF THE SOUTH
In writing the story of Florence, it is our intention to do it in a different way from the usual method of writing such stories. Trotwood’s Monthly is known as the magazine that is “Different” and we want to be that way. The fact that “John Smith came here in 1869, commenced farming under innumerable disadvantages, was married on February 5, 1874 to Miss Mary Jones, and that the union was blessed with several children, and that his sterling worth as a citizen and business man, is highly appreciated, etc., etc.,” may be gratifying to the vanity of John Smith, but does it help Florence? We think not, and will, therefore, write the story in a “Different” way.
Old Lauderdale County Courthouse, 1822-1900.
The history of Florence from the day of the Moundbuilders has been told in this issue by Mr. John Trotwood Moore, in his “Southern Travels.” It is our intention only to tell of the commercial advantages, and tell it without any “hot air” attachments. Probably the most interesting story to be told in connection with Florence at the present time is the story of Mussel Shoals, for what it means to Florence, no one at this time can tell. If it is true that the waste waters of the great canal are to be harnessed, and electricity transmitted to the surrounding territory, it simply means that “Greater Florence” will be the leading city of Alabama, and one of the leading cities of the entire South. The story of Mussel Shoals has been written, and appears in this number, and the main stem of the story is facts. We prefer to allow our readers to form their own conclusions as to the result, but it is easy enough to see that it will mean the present Florence will give way to the Greater Florence, and rank with the best Southern cities. We would not be dealing in facts if we tried to convey the idea that Florence alone is to be benefitted by this contemplated improvement, for it means that the surrounding country and the neighboring town and cities will also reap their share of the prosperity incidental to this improvement.
Florence is an ideal place for a home. It is much easier to tell what they have not got, than to tell of the many advantages. There is an abundance of pure water, an ideal climate, good schools, good society, an abundance of the most beautiful scenery to be found anywhere and if there is any disadvantages around Florence from the standpoint of its being a desirable place to live, we failed to discover it. The price of real estate in Florence, as compared with values quoted elsewhere, is below the average. A more desirable home can be bought in Florence for the money than can be bought most any place else in the South. Florence has more modern homes that are up-to-date in architecture than many places twice the size. Every street shows the progressiveness of the citizens in building homes that are a credit to Florence and to Northern Alabama.
Lauderdale County Courthouse, Florence, Ala.
Two live newspapers cover the local field thoroughly, and they are not spending any time slinging muddy editorials at each other, but are interested in the development of Florence, and both are a credit to the city. Their equipment is superior to that found in many offices twice the size, and their columns are bright and full of the latest news.
When a manufacturer investigates with a view to locating, he invariably asks: “What are the banking facilities?” Florence can well be proud of her banks, and a glance at their advertisements herein will tell the story. The First National has stood the test of time, and the Alabama Trust and Savings Bank show by their deposits that they have the entire confidence of the people, for they are but a few months old. These banks are safe and reliable, conservative and up-to-date.
Florence is noted for her educational institutions, and with the best graded schools and colleges can offer more in the way of educational features than many cities of larger size.
Florence has transportation advantages that place her in a commanding position, and with competition from two railroads and the Tennessee River, and with other railroads under consideration, is placed in close touch with the markets of the world.
There is probably no city in the United States that enjoys better advantages than Florence as a manufacturing point. Competing railroads and river transportation, cheap fuel, cheap labor, right at the door of one of the biggest furnaces in the South, they are able to get the best grade of iron at a very low cost, and without the usual transportation charges added.
Lumber in abundance, and right at the door of the best coal mines in the South. Cheap power is one of the essential features of a successful manufacturing point, and even with the present conditions to say nothing of the Mussel Shoals improvement, it places Florence ahead of most any city in the South as a manufacturing center.
As an example of the advantages of locating a manufacturing plant in Florence we will cite the case of the Stove Foundry. They are at the very door of the Philadelphia Furnace, and have in many cases had deliveries of iron on two hours’ notice—sometimes less. Now comes the point: Detroit is one of the greatest stove manufacturing cities in the United States. Records show that pig iron is being shipped from Florence to Detroit, and that finished stoves are being shipped from Detroit to Florence. Labor is cheaper in Florence than in Detroit. Fuel is cheaper, water is cheaper, and in fact everything is cheaper. The Florence foundries can make and ship a finished casting to northern points for the same rate the raw material can be shipped, and yet a great deal of the finished product finds its way back to Florence and points further South. There are a thousand arguments in favor of Florence, and none against her. Everything is better and conditions are better in every way. The climate is elegant, scenery sublime, and one of the most healthy locations in the United States.
Jefferson Hotel, Florence, Ala.
A story of Florence without mention of their excellent street railway would not be complete. The Sheffield Company operate a line of cars between Florence, Sheffield and Tuscumbia, that are strictly up-to-date, and the same attention is paid to the wants of the people as though they were compelled to fight an aggressive competitor for every fare. These cars connect the L. & N. and Southern depots, and give Florence a service that they are proud of and appreciate. There is a friendly rivalry existing between the cities of Florence, Sheffield and Tuscumbia, as there always is when towns are located close together, and to ask a man in Sheffield what he thought of Florence, he would look as though he never heard of the place, and to ask a man in Florence what he thought of Sheffield, he would say that any man living in Sheffield when he could just as well live in Florence should be fined and imprisoned on suspicion, but in dividing his favors in the way of street car service, Mr. J. W. Worthington, the Vice President and active man, is impartial, and gives all three cities a service that is strictly first-class.
The Sheffield Company also furnish electric lights and power to Florence, and are daily improving the service and extending their wires.
Florence could well be called a “City of Schools and Churches,” for in that respect they are far above the average city. Their schools, as before mentioned, are of the highest order, and their churches represent all denominations. There is the Methodist, Baptist, Presbyterian, Trinity Episcopal, Catholic and Christian. The people are unusually devoted to the churches, and contribute liberally to their support.
Florence now has approximately three miles of cement sidewalks and is now advertising for bids for the construction of twenty-seven miles additional. Florence will use something like ten million brick within the next few months, as several large buildings are now being constructed and the plans are being drawn for many more.
Philadelphia Furnace, Florence, Ala., owned by Sloss-Sheffield Co. Daily capacity, 200 tons. Employs 175 men.
Florence now has industries that represent a money investment of about one and a half million dollars, fine schools and churches, street railway, electric lights and gas, honest city government, an up-to-date and efficient fire department, police protection, telegraph, telephones, public parks, and in fact everything required to make it a desirable place to engage in business and to reside. It will welcome new industries and good citizens. It is in need of various industries to use the waste material from the wagon works, stave factories and planing mills, and can offer greater inducements to parties interested than any other city in the South.
It would be unfair to this intelligent city, filled, as it is, with schools, colleges and churches, not to make mention of its valuable library.
Since its inception in 1885 it has continued to furnish to the reading public of Florence the best literature, consisting of prose and poetry, history, science and fiction.
There are more than 2,000 volumes, well shelved and properly cared for. The library, while not entirely free, is open to all, and intended for all. One day of every week books can be procured and a membership fee of $1.00 per year is charged, this amount being used for the purchase of the new books, a stipulated sum being spent each year for historical works and reference books for students.
The books are carefully selected when purchased, there being a special book committee charged with this duty. The library is under the direction of twelve lady directors, selected for their special fitness for the work. They are:
Mrs. Erister Ashcraft, President; Mrs. John R. Price, Vice President; Mrs. Emmet O’Neal, Secretary; Mrs. L. M. Humphries, Treasurer; Mrs. W. P. Campbell, Mrs. C. E. Jordan, Mrs. H. B. Lee, Miss Nettie Simpson, Mrs. M. W. Cample, Mrs. M. C. Nelson, Mrs. L. B. Frierson, Mrs. G. N. Smith.