INDEX.
[A] [B] [C] [D] [E] [F] [G] [H] [I] [J] [K] [L] [M] [N] [O] [P] [Q] [R] [S] [T] [U] [V] [W] [Y] [Z]
Achilles, shield of, [33], [103].
Aelgitha, wife of Canute, embroideries by, [366].
Agrippina, golden garment of, [143].
Alessandri Palace, Florence, [284].
Alexander the Great, [142], [299];
wedding tent of, [263-4];
pall of, [142].
Alkisthenes, mantle of, [298].
Altar, [42], [346];
altar-piece, [328];
altar-cloths, [340], [346];
by Queen Emma, [366].
Amasis, corselet of, [20], [308];
Bishop of, [299].
Anne of Brittany, [331].
Apollo of Branchidæ, [296].
Arachne, [237].
Aragon, Catherine of, embroideries by, [383].
Aristophanes, [98].
Arras, [238], [243], [255-6], [274].
Arrazzi, [245];
Prince of, [249];
trade with, [250], [252].
Art of dress, [298];
of needlework, [396].
Art, Greek, [18], [35], [59], [306];
Egyptian, [20], [25], [34], [56-7];
Scandinavian, [29], [40];
Roman, [37], [60], [310];
Romanesque, [36], [323];
Christian, [37], [39], [300], [306], [311], [315], [317];
Chinese, [38], [73], [153], [155];
Japanese, [38], [64], [65], [393];
Gothic, [42], [52], [68], [307], [324];
Italian, [43], [311];
French, [46];
Ecclesiastical, [41], [78], [303], [305];
Aryan, [69], [70];
Celtic, [96], [273];
decorative, [289];
Lombardic, [310];
Pagan, [338].
Asbestos linen, [123].
Attalus II., [142].
Auxerre, Bishop of, [242].
Balawat, bronze gates from, [271].
Baldachino, [170], [268], [283], [312].
Banner, [215];
of St. Cuthbert, [349].
Bas-relief, Assyrian, [287].
Bayeux tapestries, [367].
Beads, [332].
Bede, mention of worked palls by, [160].
Bedsteads, [282];
at Kenilworth, [283-4];
at Hampton Court, [395].
Bellini, portrait of Mahomet II., [147].
Black, [187].
Blode-bendes, or silk arm-bindings, [374].
Boadicea, dress of, [87], [359].
Bombacinum or cotton, [138].
Book-coverings in library of Charles V., [289].
Borghese Palace, Rome, [277].
British Museum, sculptures in, [22];
vases, [31], [114];
frieze of Parthenon, [31];
mantle of Demeter, [93];
Egyptian dress, [93];
glass bowls, [101];
carpets from Nineveh, [105];
Egyptian woollen embroidery, [130];
fine linen printed, [134];
garment with gold ornaments, [144];
“opus pectineum” from Egypt, [236];
pavements, [272];
bronze statuette of Minerva, [297];
specimen of “opus Anglicanum,” [376].
Brocade, [141].
Bronze age, [358];
statues, [359].
Brown, [187].
Buckram, [139].
Burleigh House arras, [256].
Byrri, [238].
Byssus, [134-5].
Carpets, [261], [285];
Persian, [23], [73], [132], [188], [241], [271], [371].
Cashmere, [133].
Castle Ashby, tapestries at, [277].
Catacombs, [304].
Chair, [285];
chair-backs, [286].
Chaldean house, [281].
Charles V., library of, [289], [295].
Chasuble, [164];
by Isabella of Spain, [147];
at Coire, [328];
of St. Oswald, [362];
at Valencia, [381];
for Henry III., [374].
Chaucer, [251].
Chemmis, city of Pan, woollen trade in, [127].
Chenille, [395].
Church historical embroideries, [316].
Ciclatoun, [145].
Cinnabar, [183].
Cleves, Anne of, [384].
Cochineal, [184].
Code of Manu, [89].
Colour, [175-193];
prismatic, [177];
purple, [180];
crimson, [184];
copper, [184];
yellow, [185];
pure, [189], [192];
iodine, [190];
chromatic, [190];
Oriental, [191];
gas, [191];
foundation, [289];
green, [289];
liturgical, [305];
mystical, [335].
Complication, [67].
Confusion, [65].
Consutum, [214].
Contrast, [66].
Cope of St. Andrew, [144];
Syon, [206], [326];
of Boniface VIII., [320];
at Rheims, [321-2];
Daroca, [320], [376];
at Stoneyhurst, [348], [379];
of Innocent III., [369];
at Durham, [390].
Copper, [184].
Coronation robes, [295], [318], [362];
of St. Stephen of Hungary, [322];
of Charles X., [339];
of Edward the Confessor, [366];
of James II., [393].
Corselet of Amasis in temple at Lindos, in Rhodes, [20], [308].
Cotton, [137];
cotton trees, [138];
woven, [139];
cotton plush, [139].
Counterpane worked by Queen Catherine, [384].
Coverlets, [393].
Crewels, [133], [229], [345], [398];
work in, [390], [392].
Crimson, [184].
Cross, [103];
of St. Andrew, [144];
Greek, [165];
emblem of, [308];
prehistoric, [335-6].
Croyland Abbey embroideries, [366].
Curtains, [261], [270], [272], [281], [288];
ordered by Sergius, [312];
by Pope John, [312];
by Stephen IV., [312].
Cushion at Hatfield, of James I.’s reign, [390].
Cuthbert, St., [144];
silk garments in tomb of, [163], [165], [364-5].
Cyprus bowls, [109].
Dado, [271].
Dais, the chamber of, [282].
Dalmatic of Charlemagne, [53], [317-18];
at Valencia, [381].
Damascus, [127].
Decoration, [5], [50], [70], [290], [355];
art of, [273].
Design, [54-81];
floral, [71], [345], [348];
English, [377];
by St. Dunstan, [365].
Detail, [71].
Dress, [70], [294], [301], [373];
Greek, [297-8];
Roman, [299];
early Christian, [300];
of Claudius, [360];
of Duke and Duchess of Buckingham, [393].
Durham Cathedral, [348].
Dyes, [183], [185], [358];
Indian, [187].
East India Company, monopoly of trade by, [388].
Ecclesiastical embroidery, [303], [327], [330], [353];
for images, [305];
priests’ robes, [306];
materials used in, [311];
names of garments in, [313], [316];
at Durham, [316];
English, [332].
Edward II., [250].
Edward III., [377].
Eighteenth century decorations, [112];
embroidery, [393], [395].
Eleanor, Queen, crosses of, [372].
Emare, mantle of, [372].
Embroiderers’ Guild, [388];
list of names, [373];
Company in Elizabeth’s reign, [387], [394].
Embroideries, Babylonian and Ninevite, [22], [44], [105], [127], [132], [271], [299], [311], [350];
Greek, [31-2], [93], [103], [142];
German, [43], [149];
Italian, [43], [116], [147];
Spanish, [45], [150], [331], [383];
Portuguese, [45];
Scandinavian and Celtic, [68], [91], [104], [116], [131], [136], [306];
Egyptian, [93], [114], [130], [134], [209], [236], [271];
Assyrian, [93], [127], [262], [357];
Roman, [129], [143], [153], [313];
Chinese, [97], [113], [127], [151], [208];
Persian, [99], [266], [299];
Japanese, [109], [214];
Russian, [201], [206], [313];
Delphic, [272];
English, [319], [321], [325], [356-396];
spurious, in Henry VI.’s reign, [377].
Embroidery, art of, [16], [136], [173], [195], [289], [378];
white, [200];
in churches, [313], [341].
Emma, Queen, embroideries by, [366].
Enamel, [146].
Etruscan borders, [47];
tombs, [357].
Fashion, [301].
Fayoum, [39];
ancient Egyptian textile fabrics from, [139], [300].
Fictile vases, [31], [32], [93], [103].
Field of Cloth of Gold, [381-2].
Filatorium, [222].
Fitness, [81].
Flat, drawing on, [69-70];
stitches, [345].
Flavius Vopiscus, [158].
Flemish work, [329].
Floral patterns, [71].
Floss silk, [374].
Flowers, [291].
Footstools, [285].
Frames, [292], [299], [371], [389].
Frescoes, [373].
Fulham, tapestry works at, [257].
Furniture, [280-293].
Gammadion, [104].
Gaudry, Bishop, tapestry of, [242].
Geoffrey, Abbot, [249].
Gisela, Queen, [323].
Giustini Palace, Florence, [277].
Gobelins, [131], [237], [247-8], [275], [277].
Gold, [140], [143];
threads, [346];
Gothic design in, [75], [377];
embroideries, [202];
needlework for Elinor of Aquitaine, [369];
Spanish lace, [381];
caskets, [389].
Gradation, [67].
Green, [187].
Gregory Nazianzen, [160].
Grey, [187].
Grotesque, [43].
Hair, [133].
Hampton Court, [288], [384];
bed at, worked by Mrs. Pawsey, [395].
Hand-looms, [374].
Hangings, [243], [260-274];
of the Hebrew Sanctuary, [262];
of Alexander’s tent, [263];
portraits on, [265];
in Kosroes’ “white palace,” [268];
on Greek vases, [269];
in Pompeii, [269];
saffron, mentioned by Euripides, [272];
French, sixteenth century, [274];
modern French, [275];
in Holland House, [276];
in Florence, [277];
in Rome, [277];
English, from time of Harold to Edward IV., and others, [370], [384], [392-3].
Harmonies, [66].
Hawaiian royal mantle, [209].
Helen, [33].
Helena, Empress, [316], [360].
Hemp, [121].
Henry II., mantle of, [203], [323].
Henry VIII., manufacture of tapestry in reign of, [252];
embroidery, [302], [369], [384-5].
Hephæstion, catafalque of, [267].
Hexameron work of St. Ambrose and St. Basil, [333].
Holland House, [276].
Homer, [11], [19], [33], [130].
Icelandic Sagas, [273], [362].
Illumination, [273], [305], [310], [363].
Imperial, a silk tissue, [161].
India, arts of, [7], [27], [75], [83], [311];
Museum, [89], [285].
Indian carving, [75];
shawls, [133];
cotton fabrics, [138];
dyes, [187];
embroideries, [284], [299];
manufactures, [389], [391], [394].
Inscriptions, [105], [146], [341];
woven in, [168];
in tapestry, [242], [375].
Isabella of France, [331];
of Spain, [384].
Jacket in Lady Waterford’s collection, [386].
James I., manufacture of tapestry in reign of, [254];
portrait of, [255];
work in reign of, [387], [388].
Josephus, [9].
Juno, toilet of, [297].
Jute, [121].
Kells, Book of, [30].
Khotan, Prince of, [156].
Kosroes’ hangings, [261], [268].
Kunigunda, Empress, [203], [323].
Lace, [222-235];
bone, [225];
yak, [225];
needle-made, [227];
ancient lace-books, [228];
stitches, [229];
Venetian, [229];
Burano, [230];
list of, [231];
blond, [232];
schools in France, [233];
for ecclesiastical purposes, [233];
bobbin, [234];
Limerick, [234];
Irish, [234];
Honiton, [234];
Spanish, [383].
Lambeth tapestry works, [257];
missal at, [30].
Lares, [291].
Leather, [123].
Lilac, [187].
Linen, [357-8].
Louis XIV., [46], [247], [276], [332], [393].
Louis XV., [47], [110], [247], [276], [332].
Louis XVI., [332].
Maniple of St. Cuthbert, [144];
in Durham library, [364].
Mantle of Demeter, [93];
of Ajax, [103];
of Servius Tullius, [129];
of Alkisthenes, [299];
of Gisela, [323];
of King Wiglaf, [363-4].
Manu, Code of, [314].
Manufactures of Nineveh and Babylon, [127];
at Lyons, [151];
of silk, [160];
at Palermo, [161].
Marcus Aurelius, [158].
Mark’s, St., Venice, [346].
Mary, Queen of Scots, [387].
Mary’s, St., Hall, Coventry, [250], [379].
Melito, Bishop of Sardis, book on Symbolism by, [333].
Middle Ages, [12], [23], [42], [73], [125], [137], [145], [168], [183], [202], [239], [242], [249], [273], [307], [315].
Mitre at Milan, [211];
of St. Thomas à Becket, [321], [369].
Monks of St. Florent, Saumur, [242];
of Cluny, [242];
of Fleury, [242];
in England, [249];
of St. Alban’s, [251].
Monuments, [373].
Morris, William, [290].
Mosaics, [40], [300], [314];
Empress Theodora’s dress figured in, [41], [93];
of Sta. Pudenziana, [306], [317];
early Christian, [314];
in Sta. Maria Maggiore, [117], [322].
Mummy-wrappings, [21].
Museum, Cluny, [247], [275], [277];
at Boulac, [56].
Muslin, [139].
Mycenæ, tomb of Agamemnon at, [19];
lion’s gate of, [304].
Needle, the first, [14], [357];
bronze, steel, [195], [213];
bone, [358].
Nimroud, [24].
Nineteenth century, style of, [49], [339].
Normans, [366].
Northumberland House, tapestries at, [257].
Nunneries, [10].
Opus Alexandrinum, [117].
Opus Anglicanum, [325], [376].
Orange, [187].
Order, [59].
Oriental work, [392].
Orphrey, [368-9].
Oudenarde “hallings” or “salles,” [252].
Painting, [4].
Palermo, silk-weaving at, [165], [307].
Pall of Alexander, [142];
at Dunstable, [251], [378];
of London Companies, [329], [379].
Pamphile silk-weaver, [152].
Patchwork, [117];
appliqué, [214], [325], [392].
Patterns, [82-117];
wave, [62], [114];
key, [63], [97];
Oriental, [84], [99];
lotus, [89], [102];
animal, [93];
lily, [95];
rose, [95];
palm leaf on shawl, [96];
sacred hom, [99];
pine-apple, [100];
honeysuckle, [101];
egg and tongue, [102];
cross, [103];
crenelated, [104];
Renaissance, [108];
cloud, [109], [338];
fundata or netted, [109];
wheel, [110];
Moorish, [110];
Sicilian, [111];
shell, [112];
Indian balcony, [112];
chrysoclavus or palmated, [113];
wicker and lattice-work, [113];
bead, [114];
daisy, [114];
geometrical, [115];
German and Venetian books of, [206];
feather, [208];
Persian, [241];
check, [270];
metal-work, [325];
Roës, or wheel and plate, [336-7];
Indian dimity, [394].
Peacocks, [163], [211];
feathers, [376].
Pearls, [332], [362], [383], [389].
Pectineum, [235].
Penates, [291].
Penelope, bridal couch of, [281].
Peplos of Athene, [32].
Père Labbé, [242].
Persian carpets, [23], [73], [98], [132], [241], [266], [271];
rugs, [94];
silks, [153].
Perspective, [70].
Peter’s, St., Rome, [346].
Pheidias, [59].
Phœnicians, [7], [21], [125], [176], [357];
bowls from Cyprus, [109].
Phrygium, [202].
Plâteresque, [45].
Plush, [221].
Pluvial of St. Silvester, [319];
at Bologna, [320];
at Aix, [351];
Daroca, [376].
Polymita, [87].
Pompeii, [269].
Portraits of Charles V., [295];
of Richard II. at Wilton House, [372];
of fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, [379];
in needlework in reign of James I., [388].
Portuguese silks, [394].
Progression, [64].
Pulvinarium, [204].
Purl, [387].
Purple, [187].
Queen Anne, style in reign of, [46], [49], [88], [391], [394].
Queen Elizabeth, embroidery of, [385-6];
style in reign of, [389].
Queen Mary of Hungary, [330].
Queen Matilda, [367].
Radiation, [67].
Raphael, [44], [245];
cartoons of, [255].
Renaissance, [26], [43], [45], [75], [108], [308], [329], [380], [383].
Repetition, [62].
Reredos at St. Alban’s, [249], [347];
of Vintners’ Company, [251].
Richard Cœur de Lion, [374].
Robes of Julius Cæsar, [153];
of Childeric, [144];
of Bishop Adhelme, [361];
of St. Thomas à Becket, [369].
Roger, King of Sicily, transports silk-weavers from Greece, [161].
Roman silks, [160];
fashions, [299].
Romanesque, [36], [306], [323], [362], [364].
Roses, Wars of, [371], [372-3], [378].
Rugs, [285].
Samit, [145].
Sampler of Henry VII.’s reign, [379-80].
Saracenicum, [240].
Satin, [161], [170];
of Bruges, [171].
School of Art Needlework, South Kensington, [219], [288], [392];
rise of, [396-7];
list of work executed at, [398];
designs for, [398].
Schools, branch of Art Needlework, [397].
Seam, [198].
Seventh century work, [361-2].
Sewing, plain, [197].
Sicilian patterns, [111];
embroideries, [124];
textile designs, [162], [341];
silk manufactures, [168];
fabrics, [315];
ecclesiastical designs, [331].
Sicily, textile art in, [41], [307].
Si-ling-chi, Empress, inventor of unwinding the cocoon, [156].
Silk, origin of, [151];
first woven by Pamphile at Cos, 300 B.C., [152];
Roman and Chinese, [153], [160];
trade in, [153];
in cocoon, [153], [156];
wild silk in China, [154-5];
attire mentioned in Latin poets, [157];
silken robes sold by Marcus Aurelius, [158];
garments given by Emperor Carinus, [158];
edict of Diocletian, with prices of articles, [159];
silk mentioned by poets and historians from first to sixth century, [159];
silkworm, [159];
monopoly of silk manufactures in Constantinople, [159];
first allusion to use of silk in Christian Church, [160];
palls of silk brought from Rome, A.D. 685, [160];
Bede’s remains wrapped in silk, [160];
specimens of silk in Auberville’s “Tissus,” silk tissues called “Imperial,” [161].
Silk-weavers, Jewish, at Thebes in 1161, [161];
transported by Roger, King of Sicily, from Greece to Palermo, [161], [165];
description of Royal manufactory at Palermo, by Hugh Falcandus, twelfth century, [161];
three periods in Sicily, [162-3];
Saracenic, in India, [166-7];
Italian, in Lyons, 1450, [167], [169];
Spanish at Malaga and Almeria, [168];
in Hungary under Queen Gisela, [169];
in the Flemish towns, [170];
Asiatic, [170].
Smock of Mary Tudor, [385].
Society of Arts, Birmingham, [292].
Sofas, [285].
Spangles, [146].
Spanish Armada, hangings, [253].
Sphinx, [265].
Spinning, [357].
Stamford, Arras woven at, [256], [257].
Stitches, [194-259];
lists of, [196];
gold, [203];
mosaic, [204];
cushion, [204];
plumage, [207];
satin, [214];
sampler, [234];
ecclesiastical, [345];
stem, [214].
Stole, [308];
at Durham, [364];
of Aelfled, Queen of Edward II., [364].
Style, [14-53].
Sun-cross, Egyptian, [337].
Sunflower, [91];
radiated pattern of, [111].
Surcoat of Black Prince, [373].
Swastika, [103].
Symbolism, [59], [95], [98], [307], [333], [334-5], [352].
Symmetry, [63-4].
Table covers, [287].
Tanaquil, robes worked by, [129].
Tapestry, [235-259];
in British Museum, [236];
woven, [237];
of Charles, Duke of Burgundy, [243];
Gobelins, [237];
Arras, [238];
Saracenic, [240];
at Brussels, [245];
French, [245];
Italian, [245];
English, [248], [277];
revival of, at Windsor, [257];
in Cluny Museum, [277].
Tau, [335].
Tent, funeral, of an Egyptian queen, [25], [215];
of Antar, [263];
of Nadir Shah, [263];
of Alexander, [264];
of Ptolemy Philadelphus, [264-5];
Persian, [265].
Textile art, [45], [59], [74], [77], [93], [104], [107], [174], [176], [187], [205], [307], [310].
Thebes, silk-weavers of, [161].
“Tissus” of Auberville, [160].
Titian, [178].
Toga, [338].
Tomb of Agamemnon, [19];
of Rameses, [20];
of warrior at Kuban, [129];
in Crimea, [130], [217];
Anglo-Saxon, [144];
of St. Cuthbert at Durham, [163].
Tree of Life, [336].
Triptych in Cluny Museum, [211];
at Zurich, [328].
Ulysses, [281].
Vatican, Etruscan gold ornament, [21], [295], [300].
Veil of Temple, [22];
classical, [261], [265], [311], [312];
for pyx, [350];
of Hebrew sanctuary, [311], [351].
Velvet, [76], [345], [347];
stoles, [161], [172], [221];
pall, [378].
Venetian red, [289];
style, [306].
Vestments, [313], [326];
Italian, [329];
Spanish, [331];
modern, [343];
set presented to Romsey and Croyland by Canute, [366], [370];
set bequeathed to Westminster Abbey by Henry VII., [379].
Watteau, school of, [248].
Welby, Lady, founder of School of Art Needlework, South Kensington, [396].
Wiglaf, King, [362].
William and Mary, [393].
Wilton carpet works, [190].
Wool, [125], [127], [130];
Berlin, [395].
Worcester, dress in tomb of Walter de Cantilupe, [320];
cope of William of Blois, [322];
tomb of King John, [373].
Workhouse sheeting, [140].
Wroxton House, Arras at, [256].
York, Archbishop of, Arras with design of the Four Seasons, [255].
Zoroaster, [101].