THE DOMINICAN, OR BLACK, FRIARS,
long since cleared of its buildings, and now converted into a wharf, warehouse, and excellent gardens. These friars established themselves here as early as 1222, and assumed as their founder Matilda, grand-daughter and co-heiress of Walter de Lasci, lord of Ludlow, and wife of Geoffrey de Joinville, of Vaucoulour.
Edward IV., who, throughout the whole of his reign regarded Shrewsbury with much affection, selected this religious house as his occasional residence, and the place in which his Queen was delivered of her second and third sons, Richard Shrewsbury, (1473–4,) Duke of York, afterwards murdered in the Tower, and George Plantagenet, who died young. Many persons of distinguished rank, who fell in the battle of Shrewsbury, 1403, received interment here.
On levelling the ground in 1823, the foundations of three spacious apartments, fragments of mullions and pillars, emblazoned tiles, several skeletons enclosed in rude stone coffins, and great quantities of bones, were disclosed to view. The site is now the property of the Corbets of Sundorne.
The sloping ground rising above the site of this friary, and extending to the south and south-eastern wall of the town, where the Infirmary and other houses now stand, was, as we learn from a charter of Henry III., dated 1227, confirming the possessions of the Abbey of Shrewsbury, given by “divers citizens of Salopesbury” to the monks of that house “for the planting of a vineyard:”—a situation, according to the best writers on horticulture, eminently adapted to the cultivation of the vine.
Arrived at the top of the Water-lane, we enter, on the left, a cathedral-like close, in the centre of which the venerable edifice of
ST. MARY’S CHURCH
uprears its “heavenward spire.” This church, once collegiate, is said to owe its foundation to Edgar the Peaceable, (959 to 975,) who, at the suggestion of Archbishop Dunstan, placed in it a dean, seven prebends, and a parish priest, though there is every probability that the foundation was antecedent to his reign. In the Saxon times, it possessed a landed estate of about 1300 acres, which it continued to hold at the time of Domesday, but of which it was soon after deprived, by what means we have no power of ascertaining. At the dissolution of collegiate churches, 1 Edw. VI., the revenues, which consisted chiefly of tithes, amounted to £42; the greater portion of which was granted in 1550, by Edward VI., towards the endowment of the Free Schools.
From a very early period this church enjoyed the privilege of a Royal Free Chapel, exempt from the jurisdiction of the Bishop. This peculiar jurisdiction remained till the recent Act of Parliament (1846) restored it to the Bishop of the Diocese, and was held by lease, at an annual rent of £1 6s. 8d. of the Corporation, to whom Queen Elizabeth granted it by charter, dated 23rd May, 1571. The Minister was usually, though not necessarily, the lessee, and his style was “Ordinary and Official, Principal of the Peculiar and Exempt Jurisdiction of the Free Royal Chapel of the Blessed Virgin Mary.” In his Court wills were proved, letters of administration were granted, and all ecclesiastical matters, arising within the parish and its subordinate chapelries, adjudicated. The Official also granted marriage licenses, and licenses to the curacies of St. Mary and its chapelries.
The appointment to the living was vested by Act of Parliament, passed in 1801, in the Corporation, who in their choice are directed to give the preference to the son of a burgess who has been educated at the Free School, or to one born in the parish of Chirbury, in this county. The Minister is, ex-officio, Public Preacher of the town.
The parish of Saint Mary includes about a fourth part of the whole town, nearly the entire suburb of the Castle Foregate, and extends several miles into the country.
Within these sacred walls the Pope’s Legatees held their court in 1232, for the adjustment of the differences subsisting between Henry III. and Llewellin, Prince of Wales. In 1642, the unhappy Charles I., during his residence at the Council-House, attended divine service here, received the Sacrament, and made solemn protestations of his fidelity to the principles of the reformed religion.
This fine structure is cruciform, and consists of a nave, side-aisles, transept, chancel, two chauntry chapels, and a tower at the western end, crowned with a lofty and elegant spire. In the architecture three very distinct styles are conspicuous: the Anglo-Norman of the 12th century, in the basement of the nave, most of the doors, and other portions; the lancet style of the 13th century, in the chancel and transept; and the more obtuse arch of the 15th century, in the clere-story, side-aisles, chapels, &c. with a few trifling additions of later date.
The dimensions of the church are
| Feet | In. | |
| Length from east to west, including steeple | 160 | 0 |
| Length of transept | 90 | 0 |
| Breadth of nave and side-aisles | 50 | 0 |
| Height of steeple | 220 | 2 |
| Height of steeple from the level of the river | 300 | 0 |
Esteeming this ancient fabric to be the principal ornament of our town, we deem it necessary to add the following detailed description, which we trust will prove serviceable to the visitor in his attentive examination of the building.
The tower is broad and low, the basement of red stone, and the upper portion of grey, and of the Anglo-Norman and early pointed styles of architecture. The entrance is on the west side, through a plain pointed arch of the very earliest kind, springing from square jambs with regular impost mouldings, and having an internal arch, nearly triangular, inserted within the head. On the opposite eastern side, a very early pointed arch without mouldings, resting on short round Norman pillars with indented capitals, communicates with the nave. Two tiers of small round-headed windows pierce the lower stories, on all sides except the east. The upper story is lighted on each side by two united and handsome pointed windows, bisected by single mullions, forming quatrefoil heads, and divided by transoms in the middle. A facia, charged with roses, and terminating at the angles in projecting grotesque heads, ornaments the upper and lower portions of this story, which is finished with a plain embattled parapet, and crocketed pinnacles at the corners. From the summit of the tower rises an octagonal spire, “fine by degrees, and beautifully less,” pierced on alternate sides, with three tiers of tabernacled openings, and crowned with an open flower, cross and vane. In the tower is a peal of ten bells, the eight largest of which are extremely melodious. This beautiful tower and spire have been thoroughly repaired and restored at considerable cost, raised by subscription, under the superintendence of Mr. S. Pountney Smith, of this town, whose skill, judgment, and taste, in ecclesiastical architecture, are worthy of the highest praise.
The nave and side-aisles, externally in the pointed style of the 15th century, and of grey stone, are entered on the north and south-west by beautiful semicircular arches, adorned with chevron, lozenged, and foliated mouldings. Before the south-west entrance is an ancient porch, principally of Anglo-Norman architecture; the outer arch of which is circular, enriched with chevron mouldings, and issues from clustered columns with foliated capitals. The interior rib is obtusely pointed and unadorned. On each side is a small pointed window, exhibiting specimens of the earliest rudiments of the mullioned Gothic style, in which have been lately placed some highly interesting “roundels” of old painted glass, of German execution, on which are depicted various incidents, chiefly from the Apocrypha. The groined ceiling rests on two strong and plain ribs, crossing in the centre. Over this is a small chamber, with a plain pointed window.
A stone porch, entered by a pointed arch, has recently been erected before the corresponding door, on the north side.
The nave is separated from the side-aisles by four semicircular arches, overspread with deep-cut early Gothic mouldings, springing from elegant clustered columns with foliated capitals of varied and beautiful designs. This union of the round arch and clustered pillar, which belong to such different æras, is singular and very unusual in our ancient architecture. Above is a clerestory, which is continued along the walls of the chancel, lighted by short double windows, bluntly pointed, and bisected by single mullions.
By the pious munificence of the late Minister, the Rev. W. G. Rowland, the west end has been enriched by an elegant Organ-screen, [67] in the style of Henry 7th’s time, designed and executed by Mr. John Carline, of this town. Three obtusely pointed arches, overspread with deep-cut mouldings and richly foliaged spandrils, and separated by intervening buttresses elaborately adorned with open flowers in relief set in reticulated divisions, open to the nave and form the lower portion of the front. Above which, from a string-course, charged with finely sculptured heads, flowers, &c. rises the upper part or parapet, consisting of a series of similar, though smaller arches, divided by slender buttresses, and filled with the like ornamented reticulations. Around the soffits of the larger arches are the following inscriptions, in ancient church-text:—
Venite Domino exultemus;
Rupi salutatis jubilemus;
Jehovam hymnis concinamus;
Et grates illi persolvamus—Hallelujah.Jehovam virgines laudate,
Senes et pueri celebrate;
Psalmis ecclesia sanctorum
Extollat Dominum Dominorum.Laudate carminis clamore,
Laudate buccinæ clangore,
Laudate organo sonoro,
Laudate cymbalis et choro.
This spacious gallery contains a remarkably fine-toned organ, made by John Harris and John Byfield, 1729.
The beautiful ceiling of the nave is of pannelled oak, richly studded with elegant and exquisitely carved pendants and foliated bosses, and merits the most minute attention, not only on account of its elaborate workmanship, but as being one of the richest and most highly preserved specimens of its kind now in existence.
The side-aisles are each lighted on the sides by three pointed traceried windows, with smaller and earlier ones at the western terminations, and communicate at their eastern extremities with the transept, by semicircular arches, rising from thick round pillars with indented capitals.
In the windows of the western ends are figures of St. Andrew and St. John. The central window of the north aisle contains some beautiful stained glass from Holland, depicting the following subjects—Holy Family; Kneeling figure; Balaam and the Angel; the Donor and patron Saint; Adam and Eve; Mater Dolorosa; Angel appearing to the Shepherds; Disciples washing each other’s feet:—Justice; Kneeling figure; a Bishop in grief or disgrace; the Donor’s Wife and patron Saint. The windows on either side are filled with various ecclesiastical subjects. The central window of the south-aisle contains part of the history of St. Bernard; that on the west, the adoration of the Magi; and the east one, St. Helena, Kneeling figure, and Charlemagne.
A lofty and graceful pointed arch, including in its span the entire breadth of the nave, rises from richly clustered piers with foliated capitals, and divides the nave from the ancient choir. Against the north pier is a beautiful Stone Pulpit, designed and executed by Mr. S. Pountney Smith, of this town, and erected by the parishioners as a Memorial of their late revered Minister, Rev. W. G. Rowland. Its plan is an unequal octagon, the sides of which are carved into deep-pointed arches, springing from round pillars with rich foliated capitals, resting on a basement of gradually receding mouldings, terminated by a richly carved boss representing the Saviour preaching. The trefoil and the dog-tooth are the prevailing ornaments throughout. The central panel towards the south bears a bas-relief of the Crucifixion; the arch on the east, a statue of St. Peter, and that on the west, St. Paul; the eastern panel represents the Angels appearing to the Shepherds; the western one, the Ascension; and the northern arch, the statue of St. John the Evangelist.
Eastward of this, on each side, is a similar arch of like dimensions, springing from the same pier. From these, the wings of the transept, corresponding in size and style, branch off to the north and south. In the eastern wall of each wing are two semicircular arches, those nearest the choir being larger than the others, and communicating with the chauntry chapels. At each extremity of the transept is a fine triple lancet window, highly enriched with slender shafts, foliated capitals, and delicate mouldings, and filled with beautiful stained glass. That at the north is of a rich and elaborate mosaic design, with oval compartments, enclosing figures of the Apostles and an escutcheon of the arms of George III., executed by Mr. David Evans. That at the south contains the memorial stained glass to the late Rev. W. G. Rowland, comprising figures of the Virgin and Child, St. Thomas, and St. Bartholomew, under rich florid canopies, with groups of angels above, bearing scrolls with inscriptions. The side walls are pierced with narrow lights, in couplets, in a similar but plainer style; one of which, on the west side of the north transept, contains the Virgin and Child, under a canopy; whilst the corresponding window in the south transept contains the arms of France and England quarterly, and the armorial bearings of the late Bishop Butler, and the alliances of his family. The narrow doorways [71] are semicircular, rising from round pillars with foliated capitals, and enriched with a moulding, consisting of a round branch, swelling at intervals into lozenged panels, charged with roses. Under the triple lancet window of the south transept is a large and bold Gothic monument, in three compartments, to the family of Lloyd, and to the widow of the late Bishop Butler: and around the walls of the north transept are placed the splendid Gothic monuments to