INDEX.

PAGE.
Analysis of Yellow Ochre,[3]
Brown Hard Spirit Varnishes,[89]
Blistered Doors, to Repaint,[85]
Brass, to Clean,[88]
Black Varnish for Iron,[87]
Blinds, to Handle when Painting,[33]
Brass and Copper, to Clean,[35]
Bronze for Metal,[85]
Benzine, to De-odorize,[82]
Bronze,[144]
Blackboard Slating,[83]
Blackboard Slating, Cheap, but Good,[83]
Blackboard, to Make on Common Plaster,[83]
Brush Cleaning Trough,[25]
Brick, to Clean,[38]
Brick Painting,[28]
Crawling Paint,[5]
Cracks in Walls, to Fill,[131]
Cleaning a Room,[29]
Cherry Stain,[44]
Cracks in Paint and Varnish,[20]
Cleaning Phaeton Cushions,[142]
Carriage Painting,[134]
Damp Walls, to Treat,[73]
Dipping Paint,[88]
Door Plates, to Clean,[84]
Damar Varnish,[26], [91]
Dry Ochre for Priming,[2]
Estimating Work,[14]
Enameled Letters, to Apply to Glass,[95]
Furniture Varnish,[91]
Fire-proof Paint for Roofs,[86]
Fluoric Acid, to Make,[132]
Gold Varnish,[90]
Guessing on Work,[8]
Glass, to Crystallize,[93]
Gilding on Glass,[8]
Gilding on Wood,[38]
Grease Spots, to Kill,[34]
Hard Wood Floors, to Finish,[33]
Hard Putty,[121]
Japan, Testing,[19]
Kalsomine,[34]
Kalsomine, to Make and Apply,[121]
Liquid Wood Fillers,[133]
Lacquers for Brass and Tin,[91]
Leather Varnish (black),[91]
Lead Poisoning and Symptoms,[53]
Liquid Glue,[93]
Lamp Black, to Mix,[87]
Liquid Glue for Kalsomine and Wall Sizing,[123]
Measuring a Job,[17]
Mahogany Stain,[44], [45]
Midsummer Painting,[67]
Marking Ink,[146]
Natural Wood Finishing,[47]
Old Carriage Work,[140]
Oil Size for Old Whitewash,[37]
Old Wall, to Prepare for Paint,[124]
Oak Stain, dark,[45]
Oak Wood Stain,[94]
Oil Rubber Paint for Cloth,[83]
Painting Cars at Home,[153]
Plastered Wall, to Paint,[127]
Paste to Hold Labels on Tin,[31]
Paint to Prevent Rotting under Ground,[82]
Paint, to Remove,[35]
Paper Hanger’s Outfit,[91]
Price List and Measurement,[62]
Paint, to Clean,[84]
Porcelain Finish,[52]
Paper Hanger’s Paste,[92]
Putty, to Soften,[18]
Putty, to Color,[50]
Paste for Painted or Varnished Walls,[93]
Rust Spots on Marble,[145]
Red Saunders Stain,[45]
Red Wood to Finish,[145]
Rough Stuff,[142]
Rough and Sandy Walls,[129]
Sizing Walls,[94]
Sign Painting,[99], [117]
Scaled Work, to Repaint,[77]
Sixteenth Century Oak,[55]
Spots on Paint,[50]
Sandpapering,[76]
Stencil Border,[77]
Spirit Varnishes,[88], [90]
Size Muslin for Lettering,[78]
Slowing the Drying of Paint,[85]
Stir Your Paint,[41]
Stencil Ink (black),[144]
Signs on Colored Glass,[131]
Strainers,[34]
Silver, to Clean,[35]
Stencil Staining,[26]
Success in Painting,[7]
Symptoms of Lead Poison,[55]
Tin Roofs, to Paint,[2]
Tents, etc., to Make Weather-proof,[32]
Tacky Paint, to Cure,[18]
Tortoise Shell, to Imitate,[61]
Varnish to Fix Pencil Drawings,[145]
Varnish to Imitate Ground Glass,[60]
Varnish for Rustic Work,[61]
Varnish Stains,[44]
Varnished Paint, to Clean,[85]
Very Dirty Brass, to Clean,[61]
Wax Polish,[26]
Whitewash, to Soften,[145]
Water Glass for Floors,[145]
Walnut Stain,[44]
White Hard Spirit Varnishes,[89]
Walnut, to Stain Like Mahogany,[46]
Water Colors, to Mix,[78]
White Shellac, to Make,[49]
White Enamel,[60]
Wall Sizing for Kalsomining,[97]
Why Do Wall Papers Crack,[36]
Whitewash for Outside,[33]
Wax Floor Finish,[88]
Zinc, to Clean,[38]
Zinc, to Paint on,[32]

PRACTICAL HOUSE PAINTER.

The following is an infallible and simple commercial test of the purity of white lead:

“Take a piece of firm, close-grained charcoal, and near one end of it scoop out a cavity about half an inch in diameter and a quarter of an inch in depth. Place in the cavity a sample of the lead to be tested, about the size of a small pea, and apply to it continuously the blue or hottest part of the flame of the blow-pipe; if the sample be strictly pure it will, in a very short time, say in two minutes, be reduced to metallic lead, leaving no residue; but if it be adulterated, even to the extent of ten per cent. only, with oxide of zinc, sulphate of baryta, whiting or any other carbonate of lime (which substances are the principal adulterations used) or if it be composed entirely of these materials, as is sometimes the case with cheap lead (so-called), it cannot be reduced, but will remain on the charcoal in an infusible mass.

“A blow-pipe can be obtained from any jeweler at small cost. An alcohol lamp, star candle, or a lard oil lamp furnishes the best flame for use of the blow-pipe. This test is very simple and any one can very soon learn to make it with ease and skill.”