Clothing
The clothing of the men consists of a large cloak called the putkuli, a loincloth called tadrp, and a small perineal cloth called kuvn, kept in its place by a string round the waist called pennar.
The putkuli is made of a large piece of double cloth, which is usually worn by placing one side over the left shoulder and then throwing the whole garment round the back and over the right shoulder and across to the left shoulder, so that it completely envelops the body. This method of wearing the cloak, which is shown by the third man of [Fig. 61], is called kai ulk üt nidvai, “hand into laid who stands,” or “who stands with hand placed within the cloak.”
The double layer of cloth of which the cloak is made is sewn together at the edges except at the upper part of one side, leaving the opening of a large pocket which is bounded by lines where the two layers of the cloak are again sewn together. This pocket is called kudsh and is very capacious, so that a Toda may produce a surprising number of articles from it. As we have seen, many of the articles given to the dead are placed in this pocket.
There are two methods of wearing the cloak adopted on special occasions. One of these is that called kevenarut (adopted by the second man in [Fig. 61]), with which we have already often met. The right arm is put out of the cloak, so that the arm and shoulder are bare whenever a Toda approaches certain sacred personages or objects. The cloak is worn kevenarut whenever the wearer is engaged in prayer or employed in any way at the dairy. It is also worn in this way when approaching a palol, when performing the kaimukhti salutation, and when crossing either of the sacred streams.
The other method is that shown by the fourth man in [Fig. 61] and is called mad âr mitch nidvai, “head on covered who stands.” The cloak is worn in this fashion by a widower between the middle of the first funeral ceremony and the final scene of the azaramkedr. It is also worn in [[572]]this way by those who throw earth in the puzhutpimi ceremony of each funeral.
The tadrp is a loincloth worn in the ordinary way, as shown by the first man in [Fig. 61]. The tadrp of a young child has a pocket called terigs, but I do not know whether this pocket also exists in the tadrp of an adult.
Both putkuli and tadrp are manufactured by Hindus, probably in the Coimbatore district. Thirty years ago, according to Breeks, the cloth was procured from weavers who came from Serumuge in Coimbatore, but at the present time the garments are bought by the Todas at the bazaar. When obtained by the Todas they have certain red and blue lines, and sometimes the Todas supplement this decoration by embroidery called pukuru, which is the work of the women, and a cloak so decorated is called pukuruputkuli. The decoration is shown in Figs. 1 and 9. Some women are especially expert at this work, and one woman who has recently had to change her name is now called Pukuruveli on account of her special skill.
The chief point of interest in connexion with the kuvn is the string by which it is supported. This string is called pennar, or “butter string,” and forms a special contribution made by relatives, and especially the sister’s son, at a funeral. Further, the string is of especial significance in the dairy ceremonial, where it is sometimes called kerk.
Both putkuli and tadrp are also worn by women. The garments are of the same kind as those of the men and are worn in the same ways.
The higher grades of dairymen wear garments called tuni, made of a different material, a grey cloth, which has been said to be manufactured by the Badagas of Jakaneri, but is probably only procured by their help. A cloak of similar material called än is, or should be, used to enwrap the bodies of the dead; and, as we have already seen, there is some reason to believe that garments of this material may have been the original clothing of the Todas, for in the legend of Kwoten, the wife of this hero wore a cloak of this kind.
FIG. 61.—SHOWING METHODS OF WEARING THE TODA GARMENTS AND OF DOING THE HAIR.
The Todas themselves manufacture a special kind of [[574]]material called twadrinar from the bark of a plant, and this is largely used in the ordination ceremonies. In the ordination of a Teivali palikartmokh, it may take the place of the petuni; at that of a wursol, twadrinar may be used as a girdle; and on the fourth day of the ordination ceremonies of the palol, the candidate manufactures and wears a rough kuvn made of this material. Its use in ceremony appears to be limited to the Teivaliol, and it is possible that it also is a survival in ceremony of clothing once in general use by this or both divisions of the Toda people.
Many of the older and more important Todas now wear the turban called madpâri, but there is no doubt that this is an innovation. The Todas themselves sometimes speak of the Badagas as “they who wear the turban,” and it seemed clear that the custom has been adopted in imitation of these people. Harkness and other of the earliest writers state that the Todas never wear any covering to the head, and there is little doubt that the practice has been adopted during the last century.
At the present time a man always removes his turban when performing any act of reverence (see [Fig. 10]) and when crossing one of the sacred rivers.
Mr. Thurston mentions that on his first visit, the man whom he chose as his guide adopted the turban in honour of his appointment, and my guide, Kòdrner, although much younger than most of those who wore turbans, also adopted this custom when he was with me.