BOAT BUILDING.
Where trapping is carried on along the banks of the lakes and rivers, a boat of some kind becomes almost a positive necessity.
The following examples represent those in most general use. Perhaps the most common form of the "rough and ready" order of boats, is that called the—
"DUG-OUT," OR LOG CANOE.
It's general appearance is well indicated by the accompanying illustration. With the proper tools, one of these canoes is easily made. A sharp axe, an adze, a shaving knife, a round edged adze, and a small auger, are principally necessary; and a cross-cut saw, broad-axe, sledge, and large sized chisel, will also be found useful.
In any case the log should not be much less than two feet in diameter, perfectly sound, and free from knots. If this precaution is observed, the result will be all the more satisfactory, and the canoe can be cut so thin, as to render it a light burden; being easily carried on the shoulders.
A pine log is generally chosen for a dug-out, on account of the lightness of the wood, and the ease with which it can be worked. Butternut, cottonwood and whitewood, are also excellent, and indeed almost any sound log of large size will answer the purpose.
For a dug-out of good size, the log should be ten or more feet in length. The first thing to be done is to cut a flat surface on one side of the log, from end to end. This indicates the bottom of the canoe. On the upper side the wood should be hewn away, in the curve shown on the upper outline of our illustration.
It is well to divide the log by notches into three equal lengths. In the centre division, the wood may be cut down to a straight line to a depth of about eight inches from the upper surface. The gradual curve to the bow and stern of the canoe should start from each end of this flat cut, and extend to the upper edge of the log, the guiding line being made on the sides of the log by a piece of chalk. The adze will come into good use in trimming off the wood on these curves. When this upper outline is accomplished, the log may be turned bottom side up, and the sides of the extremities rounded off. This may be done with an axe and adze, and when performed, the bottom curves should be made by chopping away the wood in the curves shown in the lower outline of our illustration. This curve should also be marked out with chalk, and should commence a little nearer the end of the log than the curve on the upper side. Shave off the wood to a blunt edge on this curve, at both bow and stern. The rough form of the canoe is now obtained, and by the aid of the draw-knife, or shaving-knife, it can be neatly and smoothly finished.
It is then ready to be "dug-out." The tools most useful for this purpose are the adze and axe, and sometimes the sledge and chisel. The digging out is of course the most tedious part; but with sharp tools it is a comparatively easy matter. When the great bulk of the wood is taken out, the interior should be finished with a howel or round adze; and the sides may be worked to one inch and a half in thickness if desired. The writer once saw one of these canoes of most exquisite workmanship, being only one inch in thickness, and so light as to be easily lifted with one hand. Of course such perfection as this is not necessary for ordinary purposes; although where the canoe is expected to be carried any great distance, it is well to thin it as much as possible. A gimlet or small auger may be used to gauge the thickness of the canoe, using it in the following manner: Supposing the required thickness of the wood is two inches, proceed to bore the hole from the inside of the canoe, and continue until the point of the gimlet or auger barely makes its appearance on the outside. Draw out the tool, and if the thickness measures more than is required, insert into the hole a slender piece of wood exactly two inches in length; push it in as far as it will go, and you may safely work until you reach the end of it. By this method the thickness may be gauged in different parts of the boat sufficiently to acquire a fair average thickness, and there is no danger of cutting through. The gimlet should be allowed to extend outside of the canoe only sufficiently to be detected, and the holes thus made will seldom give any trouble as leaks. If, however, this should be the case, a little putty or pitch will remedy the difficulty.
The "dug-out" may be constructed of any size, and of any desired shape, but the above is the usual type.
When leaks or cracks occur, they may be caulked with hemp, and smeared with pitch, which will render them thoroughly waterproof.
For lightness and portability there is no boat more desirable or more unique than—
THE INDIAN OR BIRCH-BARK CANOE.
Where the white birch grows in perfection, and the trees attain a large size, the chief material of the birch bark canoe is at hand; and although we ordinary mortals could not be expected to attain to that perfection of skill which the Indians exhibit in the manufacture of these canoes, we nevertheless can succeed sufficiently well to answer all practical purposes. The Indian canoes are often perfect marvels of skill and combined strength and lightness. These half-civilized beings seem to take as naturally to the making of these commodities, as if it were almost an hereditary habit with them; and few men, even with the most exhaustive practice, can compete with the Indian in the combined result of strength, lightness, durability, external beauty, and nicety of work, which are the united characteristics of the typical bark canoe.
The average length of the "Bark," as used by trappers, is about twelve feet, but they may be constructed of any desired dimensions, to the length of forty feet. A canoe of this size will carry fifteen or twenty persons, and may be transported with ease upon the shoulders of two strong men. The smaller size, above mentioned, is capable of carrying two persons, and is a light load for a single man.
In constructing the bark canoe the first requisite is the gunwale, or upper framework. This should consist of four strips of cedar, ash, or other light, strong wood; two for each side of the boat. For an ordinary sized canoe, their length should be about twelve feet, width one inch, and thickness one-quarter of an inch. They should be tied together in pairs at the ends, and the two pairs then joined at the same place. The object of these pieces is to give strength and form to the canoe, and to offer a firm security for the edges of the bark, which are secured between them. The gunwale being prepared, we are now ready for the birch bark. The bottom of a well made canoe should be in one large piece, as our illustration indicates, if possible. Select some large tree with the trunk free from knots or excrescences. Mark off as great a length as possible, and chop a straight cut in the bark through the whole length of the piece, after which it should be carefully peeled from the wood. It will sometimes happen, where large birches exist in perfection, that a single piece may be found of sufficient size for a whole canoe, but this is rather exceptional, and the bottom is generally pieced out, as seen in our drawing. This piecing may be accomplished with an awl and Indian twine, or by the aid of a large needle threaded with the same, sewing with an over-and-over stitch around the edge of each piece. Use as large pieces as are attainable, and continue to sew them on until the area of bark measures about four and a half feet in width by twelve feet in length, the dark colored sides of the bark all facing the same way. Next select a fiat piece of ground, and mark off a distance of ten feet, or two feet less than the length of the gunwales. At each end of the space two tall stakes should be driven into the ground about three inches apart. Now turn the bark on the ground with its white side uppermost, and fold it loosely and evenly through the long centre. In this folded condition it should now be lifted by the upper edge and set between the stakes. There will then be about a foot of projecting bark beyond each pair of stakes. These ends should now be covered by folding another piece of bark over them, sewing the edges firmly to the sides of the rude form of the canoe, which now presents itself. When this is done, each end should be supported on a log or stone; this will cause the bottom line to sink downwards at about the proper curve. We are now ready for the gunwale. Lay it in the proper position, fitting the edges of the bark between the two strips on each side, and sewing around the whole with a winding stitch, exactly after the manner of the edge of an ordinary palm-leaf fan. The inside of the canoe should now be lined with long strips of cedar running through the entire length of the boat if possible, but if not, should be so cut as to neatly overlap at the ends. These pieces should be an inch or two in width, and from a quarter to half an inch-in thickness. The ribs are then to be put in. These are generally made from ash, one or two inches in width, and
a quarter of an inch in thickness. Any light flexible wood will answer the purpose, and even barrel hoops when attainable will do very well. These ribs should be bent to fit the interior of the canoe crosswise, either close together, or with equal distances between them and the ends should then be firmly secured beneath the gunwales by a continuous loop-stitch through the bark. For a canoe of twelve feet in length, the width should be about two feet, and in order to keep the gunwales firm, two or more cross-pieces should be inserted, and lashed firmly at their ends as our illustration shows. The centre third of the length of the canoe should be parallel at the sides, and if two braces, two feet in length are placed at each end of this third, the shape will be about perfect. We now have a bark canoe of considerable strength and durability, and it only awaits to be made water-proof for final use. In order to accomplish this all the seams outside, and the entire interior of the canoe should, be smeared with pitch, after which its floating qualities may be tested with confidence. Should any leaks occur their where-abouts are easily detected, and an additional application of pitch will remedy the difficulty. The Indians in sewing their bark canoes use tamarack roots, fibrous plants, and grasses, in lieu of thread, and even with these inferior materials often attain to such perfection in compact sewing, as to render the use of pitch unnecessary for water-proof purposes. Such skill is rarely attained by the white man, and the art of making a water-proof canoe, even out of a single piece of bark, is by no means an easy task without the aid of tar or pitch.
For the trapper we strongly recommend the birch "bark." With the above directions we are sure no one could go astray, and we are equally sure that a canoe made as we describe, would present advantages of lightness and portability which no other style of boat would possess. For temporary purposes, canoes can be made from basswood, hemlock, or spruce bark; but they are at best, very rude and clumsy in comparison with the birch bark. They are generally made after the principles of the above described; either sewing or nailing the edges of the bark together, and smearing every joint and seam profusely with pitch, and adding gunwales, lining, and ribs.
A LIGHT HOME-MADE BOAT.
The following gives an easy method of making a light and serviceable bateau, which any boy, with moderate ingenuity or skill, could easily construct:—
Select two boards, about three-quarters of an inch in thickness, eighteen or twenty inches in width, and twelve feet in length, which we will consider the required length of the boat. These boards should be well seasoned, and free from knots, and at least one of the sides should be straight.
Next, with the aid of a draw-shave, proceed to shape the ends of one of the boards, as seen on our diagram, (e) representing the forward, (g) the stern. The curve of the bow should commence at about four feet from the end, and take a rounded slope upward, leaving about ten inches of width at the end of the board (e). The stern should be cut at the angle shown at (g), commencing at about two and a half feet from the extremity of the board and continuing upward to about ten inches from the upper edge. The board thus shaped should now be laid evenly on the other, and the outline of the cut portions carefully scratched upon it, after which the second board should be cut in a similar manner as the first, so as to form an exact duplicate.
This being accomplished, the two should be laid evenly, one over the other, and the exact center of their long edges ascertained. Marking off about five inches on each side of this centre on both boards.
Next procure another board about ten inches in width, three feet in length, and perfectly squared at the ends. Nail each end of this piece securely and squarely in the space marked on each of the long boards. Then turn the pieces carefully over and nail another board across the bottom, directly opposite the first.
We will now leave them and give our attention to the bow piece, which is the next requisite. This is shown at (a), and consists of a solid piece of oak, or other hard wood, well seasoned, and hewn out in the arrow shape, indicated in our illustration. It should first be cut three-cornered, the inside face being about eight inches, and the other two ten inches. Its length should be about eleven inches, and its under side should be sloped off on a line with the under curve of the bows. At about five inches from the inner face, and on each side, a piece should be sawn out, one inch in thickness, thus leaving on each side a notch which will exactly receive the side-boards of the boat, as seen at (a).
The piece being thus ready, the bow ends of the boards should be drawn together, fitted in the notches and securely spiked with large nails. A bow piece of this kind adds greatly to the strength of a boat, and will stand much rough usage. The board for the stem should next be prepared. This should be ten inches in width and two feet in length, and should be securely nailed between the ends of the boards at the stem, as shown at (g), being afterwards overlapped on the top by a board of similar size, as our illustration shows, at (c). The bottom of the boat is now easily made by nailing boards crosswise, sawing off the projecting ends close to the curve of the side-boards. After the pieces are all nailed in place, the seams and crevices should be caulked with hemp, using a blunt chisel, or hard wooden wedge, and a mallet. The seats should now be put in, as these are not only a matter of comfort, but of necessity, acting as braces to the sides of the boat. They should be two in number, one being placed three feet from the stern and the other one foot beyond the brace board originally nailed across the top of the boat. The seats should be cut at the ends in a curve corresponding to the part of the boat in which they are placed, and should be situated about a foot from the bottom of the boat, their ends resting on short boards beneath them against the sides of the boat. These are indicated by the dotted lines (h h) in the diagram. When thus resting they should be securely fastened in place by strong
screws, driven through the sides of the boat into their ends (f f), allowing some one to sit on the seat meanwhile to keep it in place. Small cleats should now be tacked to the bottom of the boat, beneath the seat and underneath the seat itself, in order to keep the props in place; after which the original brace board across the top of the boat may be knocked off and the bateau is complete and ready for service. A boat thus made is quite comely in shape, and may be painted to suit the fancy. Should a rudder be required, the broad board at the stern offers a good place of attachment, and oar-locks may be adjusted at the proper places. These may consist of a pair of cleats attached to the inside of the boat, as seen in the illustration. In case it may be found difficult to obtain the large single boards for the sides of the boat, two or more narrow ones will answer the purpose, although not as perfectly. In this case they should first be firmly attached together by cleats, securely screwed to the inside. When first put on the water the boat will probably leak in places, but if left to soak for a few hours the wood will generally swell sufficiently to completely close the crevices. If, however, the leak should continue, that particular part of the boat should be re-caulked and smeared with pitch. This latter substance is of great value to the trapper, not only in boat building but in the construction of his shanties and in other various ways. It will most effectually stop almost any leak in a canoe or boat, and of course should always be applied hot.
THE SCOW.
The bateau we have above described is built so as to allow for considerable speed in the water, either in rowing or sculling; but where this speed is not especially desired the pointed bows may be dispensed with, and the sides of the boat made perfectly straight. In this case the bottom takes equal slopes at the ends, and both bow and stern are of the same width, and an ordinary flat-bottomed boat with parallel sides is the result. In many cases a scow of this kind answers every purpose, and is certainly much more easily made.
We have thus described a few of the most common instances of boats used by trappers, and with our full description and illustrations no one can go astray. A boat of some kind is almost an indispensable requisite to the trapper, and anyone of the foregoing will be found sufficient for all ordinary purposes.
A paddle may be used, and in shallow or muddy water a pusher or mud-stick will be found useful. This should consist of a pole seven or eight feet in length, supplied at the ends with an attachment of the shape of the letter U. This may be constructed in two pieces, firmly screwed to opposite sides of the end of the pole, and so formed as to present a curved crotch. Such a stick will be found very useful for pushing through weeds and muddy places. A simple pole trimmed so as to leave a crotch at the end will also answer the purpose very well.
SNOW-SHOES.
These commodities are almost indispensable to the trapper where he pursues his vocation in the winter time, during the prevalence of deep snows. When properly made they permit the wearer to walk over the surface of the snow with perfect ease; where, without them, travel would be extremely difficult if not impossible.
In the regions of perpetual snow, and also in Canada and neighboring districts, snow-shoes are very commonly worn. In the latter localities the "snow-shoe race" forms one of the favorite sports of the season, and young and old alike join in its mysteries. Like riding on the velocipede, walking on snow-shoes looks "easy enough," but we notice that a few somersaults are usually a convincing argument that the art is not as simple as it appears. The first experience on snow-shoes is apt to be at least undignifying, if not discouraging, and in order to get used to the strange capers and eccentricities of an ordinarily well-behaved snow shoe, it requires considerable patience and practice. There is no telling where, in an unguarded moment, they will land you, and they seem to take especial delight in stepping on each other and turning their wearer upside down. The principal secret of success (and one may as well know it at the start, as to learn it at the expense of a pint of snow down his back) consists in taking steps sufficiently long to bring the widest portion of the stepping shoe beyond that of the other, keeping the feet rather far apart and stepping pretty high. By observing these precautions, and trusting in Providence, much embarrassment may be saved, and an hour's effort will thoroughly tame the unruly appendages, which at best do not permit of much grace or elegance of gait.
To the moose hunter snow-shoes are often an absolute necessity, and trapping in many cases would be impossible without them. They are thus brought fully within the scope of our volume, and we give a few simple directions for their manufacture. Our illustration gives the correct shape of the shoe. The framework should consist of a strip of ash, hickory or some other elastic wood, bent into the form indicated and wound around the ends with twine or strips of hide. The length of the piece should be about six feet, more or less, in proportion to the size of the individual who proposes to wear the shoe. If the bending should prove difficult it may be rendered an easy matter by the application of boiling water. Across the front part two strips of stout leather, or other tough hide, are then fastened, and these further secured together by three or four bands on each side of the middle, as our drawing shows.
In the original Indian snow-shoe, from which our drawing was made, the net work was constructed from strips of moose hide, which were interlaced much after the manner of an ordinary cane-seated chair. Strips of leather, deer skin, or even split cane, above alluded to, may also be used, and the lacing may be either as our illustration represents, or in the simpler rectangular woof seen in ordinary cloth.
In order to attach the interlacing to the bow the latter should be wound with wide strips of cane, if it can be procured, or otherwise with strips of tough skin. The loops thus formed offer a continuous security, and the whole interior, with the exception of the space at the front between the cross pieces, should be neatly filled with the next work. It is well to run the first lines across the shoe, from side to side, passing through the windings of the bow. Across them, in the form of the letter X, the two other
cords should be interlaced, after the manner shown in the cut. This forms a secure and not very complicated network, and is the style usually adopted by the Indian makers.
There is another mode of attaching the lace-work to the bow which is also commonly employed, and consists in a series of holes bored at regular intervals through the wood. The winding is thus dispensed with, but the bow is sometimes weakened by the operation, and we are inclined to recommend the former method in preference. In attaching the shoe, the ball of the foot should be set on the second cross piece, and there secured by a strip of hide, which should be first adjusted as seen in the engraving, being afterward tied over the foot and then behind the ankle. Snow-shoes are made in other ways, but we believe that the typical Indian snow-shoe above described is the best.
THE TOBOGGAN OR INDIAN SLEDGE.
For winter traffic over deep snows there is no better sled in the world than the Indian toboggan. To the trapper during a winter campaign it is often an indispensable convenience, and without it the Indian hunters of the North would find great difficulty in getting their furs to market. All through the winter season the various trading posts of Canada are constantly visited by numbers of Indian trappers, many of whom have travelled hundreds of miles on their snow-shoes with their heavily laden toboggans. Arrived at their market they sell or trade their stock of furs, and likewise dispose of their toboggans, reserving only their snow-shoes to aid them in their long tramp homewards.
In Canada and northward the toboggan is in very extensive use, both for purposes of traffic and amusement. It is quite commonly met with in the streets of various Canadian cities, and is especially appreciated by the youthful population, who are fond of coasting over the crust of snow. For this purpose there is no other sled like it, and a toboggan of the size we shall describe will easily
accommodate two or three boys, and will glide over a crust of snow with great ease and rapidity. To the trapper it is especially valuable for all purposes of transportation. The flat bottom rests upon the surface of the snow, and the weight being thus distributed a load of two or three hundred pounds will often make but little impression and can be drawn with marvellous ease. Our illustration gives a very clear idea of the sled, and it can be made in the following way: the first requisite is a board about eight feet in length and sixteen or more inches in width. Such a board may be procured at any saw mill. Oak is the best wood for the purpose, although hickory, basswood or ash will do excellently. It should be planed or sawed to a thickness of about a third of an inch, and should be free from knots. If a single board of the required width is not easily found, two boards may be used, and secured side by side by three cleats, one at each end and the other in the middle, using wrought nails and clinching them deeply into the board on the under side. The single board is much to be preferred, if it can be had. The next requisites are seven or eight wooden cross-pieces of a length equivalent to the width of the board. Four old broom-sticks, cut in the required lengths, will answer this purpose perfectly, and if these are not at hand other sticks of similar dimensions should be used. Two side pieces are next needed. These should be about five feet in length, and in thickness exactly similar to the cross pieces. Next procure a few pairs of leather shoe-strings or some strips of tough calf skin. With these in readiness we may now commence the work of putting the parts together. Begin by laying the cross pieces at equal distances along the board; across these and near their ends lay the two side pieces, as seen in the illustration. By the aid of a gimlet or awl, four holes should now be made through the board, beneath the end of each cross piece, and also directly under the side piece. It is well to mark with a pencil, the various points for the holes, after which the sticks can be removed and the work much more easily performed. The four holes should be about an inch apart, or so disposed as to mark the four corners of a square inch. It is also necessary to make other holes along the length of the cross pieces, as seen in the illustration. The line on these can also be marked with the pencil across the board, and the holes made afterwards. These should also be an inch apart, and only two in number at each point, one on each side of the stick. When all the holes are made the board should be turned over, in order to complete preparations on the other side. The object of these various holes is for the passage of the leather shoe-strings for the purpose of securing the cross pieces firmly to the board. In order to prevent these loops from wearing off on the under side, small grooves should next be made connecting the holes beneath, thus allowing the leather string to sink into the wood, where it is securely protected from injury. A narrow chisel is the best tool for this purpose, the making of the grooves being much more easily and perfectly accomplished with this than with the jack-knife. When the under side is thus finished the board may be turned over and the cross pieces and sides again arranged in place as already described. Secure the pieces to the board by the leather strings through the various holes, always knotting on the upper surface, and taking care that the knots are firmly tied. The ends of all the cross pieces will require a double cross stitch through the four holes beneath, in order to secure the side pieces as well. This is plainly shown in the small diagram (a). The front end of each side piece underneath should now be sharpened to a point, to allow for the bend at the front of the toboggan. The cross piece at this end should be secured to the under side of the board, so that as it bends over it will appear on the upper edge, as our illustration shows. The board should next be bent with a graceful curve, and thus held in position by a rope or strip of leather at each extremity of the end cross piece and attached to the ends of the third cross piece, as seen in the engraving. If the bending is difficult and there is danger of breaking the board, the application of boiling water will render it pliable. The draw strings should then be attached to the ends of the second cross piece, and our toboggan is now complete.
It may now be laden with two or three hundred pounds of merchandize and will be found to draw over the surface of the snow with perfect ease. For coasting over the crust there is nothing like it. Such a toboggan as we have described will easily accommodate three boys, the one at the stern being provided with a sharp stick for steering, and the front occupant holding firmly to the draw strings. The toboggan is easily made, and will do good service either for traffic or sport.
CURING SKINS.
This department of the trapper's art is one of the most important and necessary, as affecting pecuniary profits. The value of a skin in the fur market depends entirely upon the care with which it is taken from the animal and afterward prepared, and without a knowledge on this subject the young trapper will in vain seek for high prices for his furs. Large quantities of valuable skins are sent to our markets annually by inexperienced amateur trappers, and in many cases rare and beautiful furs have been almost spoiled by want of care in skinning and curing. The rules are simple and easily followed, a little care being all that is necessary to insure most perfect success. In every case the skin should be removed shortly after death, or at least before it has become tainted with decay. Great pains should be taken in skinning. Avoid the adherence of flesh or fat to the skin, and guard against cutting through the hide, as a pierced skin is much injured in value. The parts about the eyes, legs and ears should be carefully removed. The various methods of skinning are described in our section on trapping, and in all cases the furs should be allowed to dry in a cool, airy place, free from the rays of the sun or the heat of a fire, and protected from rain.
Astringent preparations of various kinds are used by many trappers, but they are by no means necessary. The most common dressing consists of equal parts of rock salt and alum dissolved in water. Into this a sufficient amount of coarse flour or wheat bran is stirred to give the mixture the consistency of batter, after which it is spread thickly over the skin and allowed to dry.
It is afterwards scraped off, and in some cases a second application is made. This preparation is much used in dressing beaver, otter, mink and muskrat skins, but as many of our most successful and experienced trappers do without it, we fail to see the advantage of using it, as it is only an extra trouble. The simplest and surest way is to stretch the skin and to submit it to a gradual process of natural drying without any artificial heat or application of astringents to hasten the result.
A very common mode of stretching skins consists in tacking them to a board, with the fur inwards, and allowing them to dry as already described.
This method does very well for small skins, but for general purposes the "stretchers" are the only means by which a pelt may be properly cured and prepared.
STRETCHERS.
The board stretcher is the simplest form and is in most common use among trappers for the smaller animals. These stretchers are of two kinds, the plain and the wedged. The plain stretcher consists of a piece of board a quarter of an inch in thickness, about eighteen inches long and six inches in width. One end of this board is rounded
off, as seen in our illustration, and the sides should also be whittled and smoothed to a blunt edge.
The board stretchers are used only for those skins which are taken off whole, that is, as described in the chapter on the otter. The skin should be drawn tightly over the blunt end of the board, and its edges either caught in notches cut in the edges of the square end or secured by a few tacks. This stretcher is particularly adapted to the skins of muskrats, minks and animals of a like size. They are known in New England as "shingle stretchers," and are much to be recommended on account of their lightness and the ease with which they can be made and carried.
The wedge stretcher is rather more elaborate than the foregoing, and is said to be an improvement.
The first requisite is a board of about three-eighths of an inch in
thickness, two feet or more in length, and three and a half inches at one end tapering to the width of two inches at the other. This end should now be rounded, and the edges of the board whittled off to a blunt edge, as already described in the foregoing, commencing near the centre of the board, and thinning to the edge, and finishing with the notches at the square end. Now, by the aid of a rip-saw, sever the board through the middle lengthwise.
The wedge is the next thing to be constructed, and should consist of a piece of wood the thickness of the centre of the board and of the same length, tapering from an inch in width at one end to half an inch at the other.
To use the stretcher the two boards are inserted into the skin, (the latter with the fur side inward). The wedge is then inserted between the large ends of the boards and driven in sufficiently to stretch the pelt to its full capacity, securing it in the notches by slight cuts in the hide, or by a tack or two at the edge. It should then he hung in a cool, airy place, and the pelt left to "season."
The bow stretcher is another contrivance very commonly used for small skins like the foregoing. When this is used the pelt should be skinned as described on [page 185], the initial cut commencing at the lower jaw and extending down between the fore legs, all the feet being previously cut off. The bow may consist of a switch of any elastic wood such as hickory iron wood, elm or birch. It should be about three or more feet in length, and as large as a man's thumb at the butt end. By bending it in the shape of the letter U it may easily be inserted in the skin, the latter being fastened by catching the lip on each side into a sliver notch cut on each end of the bow, as our illustration indicates.
For large animals, such as the deer, bear, beaver, the hoop stretcher is generally employed.
THE HOOP STRETCHER.
This consists of a hoop made from one or more flexible switches tied together so as to form a circle. In order to be adapted to this mode of stretching, the skin should be flat, i. e. taken off as described on [page 172], the initial cut extending from the lower jaw to the vent. The size of the hoop required depends upon the dimensions of the skin. Lay the latter upon some flat surface and so gauge the hoop as that it shall surround the pelt on all sides; after which the latter should be secured or laced to the hoop with twine at the edges. All loose parts should be drawn up, and the skin should everywhere be stretched like a drum head. When this is accomplished it is the custom with many trappers to apply the preparation described on [page 273], particularly where the skin is thick and fatty. But we are rather disposed to discourage the use of any preparation whatever, in any case, as they are by no means necessary.
In using the board stretchers the fur should always be on the inside, and when the hoop or bow is used it should be placed in such a position, that the air may circulate freely on both sides of the skin, which should not be removed until thoroughly dry.
TANNING SKINS.
In case some of our readers might desire to tan fur skins for their own domestic purposes, the subjoined directions will be found to be reliable, and for all ordinary requirements, sufficiently adequate.
For tanning with the hair on, the skin should first be cleaned, every particle of loose fat or flesh, being removed, and the useless parts cut away. When this is done, it should be soaked for an hour or two in warm water. The following mixture should then be prepared: Take equal parts of borax, saltpetre, and sulphate of soda, and with them mix water sufficient to produce the consistency of thin batter.
This preparation should be painted thickly on the flesh side of the skin, after which these sides should be doubled together and the pelt left in an airy place.
A second mixture should next be prepared. This should consist of two parts sal soda; three parts borax; four parts castile or other hard soap: all to be melted together over a slow fire. At the end of twenty-four hours, after the application of the first mixture, the second should be applied in a similar manner, and the fur again folded and left for the same length of time. Next, make a mixture equal parts of salt and alum, dissolved in warm water and thickened with coarse flour to the consistency of thin paste. Spread this thickly over the skin and allow it to dry, after which it should be scraped off with the bowl of a spoon. The skin should be tightly stretched during the operation, in order to prevent too great shrinkage. A single application of the last-named dressing, is generally sufficient for small skins; but a second or third treatment may be resorted to if required, to make the skin soft and pliable, after which it should be finished off with sand-paper and pumice stone. A skin may be thus dressed as soft as velvet, and the alum and salt will set the hair securely.
The above directions are excellent, for all general purposes, but we subjoin, in addition, a few other valuable hints and specific recipes in common use. Every trapper has his own peculiar hobby in regard to his tanning process, and the recipes are various and extensive. The above is one of the most reliable for general use. A common mode of tanning mink and muskrat skins is given in the following:—
TO TAN MINK AND MUSKRAT SKINS.
Before tanning, the skin should always be thoroughly cleansed in warm water, and all fat and superfluous flesh removed. It should then be immersed in a solution made of the following ingredients: Five gallons of cold soft water; five quarts wheat bran; one gill of salt; and one ounce of sulphuric acid. Allow the skins to soak in the liquid for four or five hours. If the hides have been previously salted, the salt should be excluded from the mixed solution. The skins are now ready for the tanning liquor, which is made in the following way: into five gallons of warm, soft water, stir one peck of wheat bran and allow the mixture to stand in a warm room until fermentation takes place. Then add three pints of salt, and stir until it is thoroughly dissolved. A pint of sulphuric acid should then be poured in gradually, after which the liquor is ready. Immerse the skins and allow them to soak for three or four hours. The process of "fleshing" is then to be resorted to. This consists in laying the skin, fur side down, over some smooth beam, and working over the flesh side with a blunt fleshing tool. An old chopping knife, or tin candlestick, forms an excellent substitute for the ordinary fleshing knife, and the process of rubbing should be continued until the skin becomes dry, after which it will be found to be soft and pliable. The skin of the muskrat is quite tender, and the fleshing should be carefully performed.
HOW TO TAN THE SKINS OF BEAVER, OTTER, RACCOON, AND MARTEN.
These should be stretched on a board and smeared with a mixture composed of three ounces each, of salt and alum; three gills of water, and one drachm of sulphuric acid. This should be thickened with wheat bran or flour, and should be allowed to dry on the skin, after which it should be scraped off with a spoon. Next, take the skin from the board, roll it with the fur inside, and draw it quickly backward and forward, over a smooth peg, or through an iron ring. The skin should then be unfolded and rolled again the opposite way, and the operation repeated until the pelt is quite soft and flexible. This is a good way of softening all kinds of skins, and the above preparation will be found excellent for all ordinary purposes. The muskrat skin may be treated in the same manner as the above, if desired, and the process directed on the muskrat skin may also be applied to the pelts of the other animals.
To remove the fur for a simple tanned skin, the hide should be immersed in a liquid composed of—soft water, five gallons; slaked lime, four quarts; and wood ashes, four quarts. Allow the skin to soak for a couple of days, after which the fur will readily slip off.
Another method—take equal parts wood ashes and slaked lime, and add water to the consistency of batter. Spread this over the inside of the skin, roll it up, and place it in a pail, covering it with water. Here let it remain from one to five days, or until the hair will shed easily, after which it should be finished with the fleshing knife and velveted with sand paper.
OBSERVATIONS ON THE HISTORY OF FURS AND THE FUR TRADE.
In all cold climates, man has availed himself liberally of the warm covering with which nature has clothed the animals around him; but the wealth of the most favored nations has drawn to them the most beautiful furs, in whatever part of the world they are procured. Skins of animals were among the first materials used for clothing. Before Adam and Eve were driven from the Garden of Eden, they were furnished with coats of skins. The ancient Assyrians used the soft skins of animals to cover the couches or the ground in their tents, and the Israelites employed badger's skins and ram's skins, as ornamental hangings for the Tabernacle. The ancient heroes of the Greeks and Romans, are represented as being clothed in skins. Æneas, wearing for an outer garment, that of the lion, and Alcestes being formidably clad in that of the Libyan Bear. Herodotus speaks of those living near the Caspian Sea wearing seal skins, and Cæsar mentions that the skin of the reindeer formed in part the clothing of the Germans. In the early period, furs appear to have constituted the entire riches of the Northern countries, and they were almost the only exports. Taxes were paid on them, and they were the medium of exchange. So it was also in our own Western territories in the latter part of the last century, and is to the present day, to a great extent, among the Indians. In the eleventh century, furs had become fashionable throughout Europe, and the art of dyeing them, was practiced in the twelfth. In the history of the Crusades, frequent mention is made of the magnificent displays by the European Princes, of their dresses of costly furs, before the Court at Constantinople. But Richard I. of England, and Philip II. of France, in order to check the growing extravagance in their use, resolved that the choicer furs, ermine and sable amongst the number, should be omitted from their kingly wardrobes. Louis IX. followed their example in the next century, but not until his extravagance had grown to such a pitch, that seven hundred and forty-six ermines were required for the lining of one of his surcoats. In the times, the use of the choicer furs, as those of the sable, ermine, gris, and Hungarian squirrel, was restricted to the royal families and the nobility, to whom they served as distinctive marks and badges of rank. These privileged persons applied them lavishly to their own use, and the fashion extended to the princes of other less civilized nations. Their royal use soon extended to Tartary, and the tents of the Khan were bedecked with the most rich and costly furs. In the following century, furs were commonly worn in England until their use was prohibited by Edward III., to all persons whose purse would not warrant a yearly expenditure of £100.
The early fur trade of Western Europe, was conducted through the merchants on the south coast of the Baltic, who received goods from the ports of Livonia. In the sixteenth century, a direct trade was opened between the English and Russians; and a company of the former, protected by the Czar, established trading posts on the White Sea, and a warehouse at Moscow, whence they sent trading parties to Persia and the countries on the Caspian Sea. The Czar sent rich presents of beautiful furs, to Queen Mary and Queen Elizabeth; but the latter prohibited the wearing of any but native furs, and the trade soon declined and was abandoned. In the 17th century, Siberia was conquered by the Russians, and its tribute was paid in furs. Large quantities were also furnished to China, but the choicest kinds—the precious ermine, the brilliant, fiery foxes, and the best sables, were taken to Moscow, for the use of the princes and nobles of Russia, Turkey, and Persia.
In our own country, the early settlers of the Northern provinces, soon learned the value of the furs of the numerous animals which peopled the extensive rivers, lakes, and forests of these vast territories. They collected the skins in abundance, and found an increasing demand for them, with every new arrival of immigrants from the mother country. Trinkets, liquors, and other articles sought for by the native tribes, were shipped to Quebec, and from thence up the St. Lawrence to Montreal, which soon became the great trading post of the country. The various tribes of Indians were stimulated by trifling compensation, to pursue their only congenial and peaceful occupation; and the French settlers, readily assimilating to the Indian habits, became themselves expert hunters, trappers, and explorers.
The business prospered, and the English soon became interested and secured a share of the valuable trade. Many wealthy and influential parties, connected with the government of Great Britain,—Prince Rupert and Lord Ashley, among the number—became deeply interested in this source of revenue; and after a successful enterprise, they obtained from Charles II., a charter of incorporation, giving to them full possession of the territory within the entrance of Hudson's Straits, not already granted to other subjects, or possessed by those of any other Christian prince or State. In this charter was included the monopoly, of all trade in these regions, and thus we see the origin of the Great Hudson's Bay Company, which is to-day, one of the largest organizations of its kind on the globe. The territory they claimed, extended from Hudson's Bay, west to the Pacific, and north to the Arctic Ocean, excepting that occupied by the French and Russians. They soon formed settlements upon the various rivers which empty into Hudson's Bay, and carried on their operations with immense vigor and success. They met with much opposition and open hostility from the French, and were subjected to vast expenses and losses, but in spite of all, they continued to prosper. Their forts or factories were extended further into the interior of British America, and their power was supreme throughout the country, and in a great measure over the Indians, whom they employed to collect their skins. In the course of time, the French Canadians organized themselves into a united band, under the name of the North West Company, and established their headquarters at Montreal. Their operations were carried on with great energy and profit, and many factories were built in the western portion of the Province. The company thus soon became a formidable competitor with the Hudson's Bay Company and for a period of two years, an actual state of war existed between them. This condition of affairs finally terminated in a consolidation of the two organizations, under the name of the Hudson's Bay Company, the privileges of which extended over all the territory formerly occupied by both.
Thus, we have the history of the famous Hudson's Bay Company, from its origin to its perfect organization. It is a most stupendous concern, and its annual shipment of furs, is something amazing. Their great sales take place in the month of March, in order to be completed before Easter; and again in September, every year at London, and are attended by purchasers from nearly all parts of the world. Leipsic, the famous fur mart of Germany, is also the scene of a great annual fair, for the sale of skins.
The importance of the fur trade in this country, led to the early settlement of the Western territories of the United States; and many a frontier city, like St. Paul, has been built up by the enterprise of the trapper. Mackinaw and Montreal owe much of their growth to the traffic of the fur trade; and many a kingly fortune—John Jacob Astor's, for instance—has been founded on peltry.
Besides the above fur sales in London a moderate portion of those annually collected in the United States are retained for use, amounting to about 150,000 mink and 750,000 muskrat skins, besides a number of other furs which are manufactured and worn.
The annual yield of raw furs throughout the whole world is estimated at over twenty millions of dollars in value; and when we include the manufactured articles therefrom, the amount will swell to a hundred millions or over. This will serve to give some idea of the immensity and value of the business.
American dealers divide our native furs into two classes, viz., home and shipping furs; the former being chiefly utilized in our own country, while the latter are exported to all parts of the world. New York City is the great fur mart and depot for the shipping trade in this country, and the annual value of its exports, in this one branch of trade is enormous.
The principal shipping furs are the silver, red and cross Fox, Wild Cat, Raccoon, Fisher, Muskrat and Skunk.
Among the home furs are the Marten, Mink, Opossum, Wolf and Muskrat, the latter being extensively used both here and abroad.
In the following chapter will be found more detailed notes on the leading American furs, including their various uses and the different countries for which they are the especial staples.
In order to give the reader some idea of the variety and magnitude of the yield of furs from our own country, we annex a table (p. 282) showing the sales of the Hudson's Bay Company, at London, in the year 1873.
MARKET VALUE OF FUR SKINS.
Below will be found an authentic table of the comparative values of the various American furs at the present date of publication. The quotations are those of one of our largest fur dealers, as published in "THE HAT, CAP AND FUR TRADE REVIEW," the leading journal of the trade in America. Of course these values are constantly varying—keeping pace with the eccentricities of fashion and the demands of the fur trade; but the table will serve at least to gauge the relative values, as between the two extremes of common and scarce furs. The fur market is a great deal like the stock market. It is constantly fluctuating, and a fur which is to-day among the novelties, may next year find itself on the low priced list. The demand for furs of any kind is nearly always governed by fashion, and of course the value is estimated on the demand. If the convention of fur dealers should decide to usher in Muskrat fur as the leading and most fashionable article in that line, the fashion would create the demand, the demand would be in turn supplied by the trappers throughout the country, and in proportion as the Muskrat skins became scarce, so their value would increase. In this way a skin which may be worth fifty cents at one time may soon acquire a value of twenty times that amount. The comparative value of skins is, therefore, constantly varying more or less; but the annexed table ([page 283]) will be found useful for general reference, and for approximate figures, will probably answer every purpose for some time to come.
| KINDS. | No. of Skins. March Sale. | No. of Skins. Sept. Sale. | Total No. | Price according to quality. | Estimated average price per skin. |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| £ s. d. | |||||
| Badger | 2,700 | 2,700 | 1s. to 7s. | 1 06 | |
| Bear | 5,217 | 2,794 | 8,011 | 5s. to £8 10s. | 5 0 00 |
| Beaver | 111,993 | 37,052 | 149,045 | 4S. 3d. to 38s. 6d. | 1 00 00 |
| Fisher | 2,843 | 779 | 3,622 | 8s. to £3 5s. | 2 10 00 |
| Fox, Blue | 90 | 90 | 18s. to £4. | 2 10 00 | |
| " Cross | 1,818 | 471 | 2,289 | 5s. to £4. | 1 10 00 |
| " Kitt | 6,930 | 6,930 | 2s. 8d. to 28s. 10d. | 3 00 | |
| " Red | 6,914 | 1,383 | 8,297 | 4s. 6d. to 17s. | 10 00 |
| " Silver | 540 | 148 | 688 | £3 10s. to £21. | 10 00 00 |
| " White | 7,312 | 7,312 | 2s. to 14s. 9d. | 7 00 | |
| Lynx | 2,468 | 1,652 | 4,120 | 9s. 6d. to £1 14s. | 18 00 |
| Marten | 47,878 | 18,955 | 66,833 | 10s. to £3 19s. | 1 10 00 |
| Mink | 31,802 | 12,896 | 44,698 | 4s. to £1 8s. 6d. | 15 00 |
| Muskrat | 651,498 | 116,488 | 767,896 | 3d. to 16d. | 00 8 |
| Otter | 8,571 | 2,681 | 11,252 | 14s. to £3 18s. | 2 10 00 |
| " Sea | 98 | 98 | £4 10s. to £32. | 15 00 00 | |
| Rabbit | 10,029 | 0 | 10,029 | 3d. to 4d. | 00 3 |
| Raccoon | 3,582 | 3,582 | 1s. to 3s. 3d. | 2 6 | |
| Skunk | 1,691 | 1,691 | 2s. to 7s. | 4 00 | |
| Wolf | 6,216 | 188 | 6,404 | 6s. to £2 15s. | 15 00 |
| Wolverine | 1,770 | 320 | 2,090 | 8s. to £1 1s. | 15 00 |
AMERICAN FUR SKINS—TABLE OF VALUES*
| Prime. | Seconds. | Thirds. | Fourths | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Badger | $1.00 | $0.50 | $0.10 | ||
| Bear, Black | 18.00 | 9.00 | 1.00 | ||
| " Cub | 10.00 | 5.00 | 1.00 | ||
| " Brown | 7.00 | 4.00 | 1.00 | ||
| Beaver, California | per lb. | 1.25 | 75 | 50 | |
| " Southern | 1.00 | 75 | 40 | ||
| " Upper Missouri | 1.75 | 1.50 | 50 | ||
| " Lake Supr. and Canada. | 2.50 | 1.75 | 75 | ||
| Cat, Wild | 40 | 10 | |||
| " House | 15 | 10 | |||
| Deer, Florida | per lb. | 20 | |||
| " Missouri | 20 | ||||
| Elk and Moose | per lb. | 35 | 25 | ||
| Fisher, Southern | 7.00 | 5.00 | 1.00 | ||
| " Eastern and Canada | 10.00 | 8.00 | 2.00 | ||
| Fox, Silver | 100.00 | 25.00 | 1.00 | ||
| " Cross | 3.00 | 1.50 | 1.00 | ||
| " Blue | 15.00 | 5.00 | 1.00 | ||
| " White | 3.00 | 1.50 | |||
| " Red | 1.75 | 1.00 | 75 | 25 | |
| " Gray | 3.00 | 1.50 | 50 | 25 | |
| " Kitt | 50 | 25 | |||
| Lynx, Minnesota | 2.50 | 1.00 | |||
| " Canada | 4.00 | 2.00 | |||
| Marten, Dark | 10.00 | 6.00 | 2.00 | ||
| " Small Pale | 2.00 | 1.00 | 50 | ||
| Mink, Southern | 1.00 | 50 | 25 | 10 | |
| " Western | 1.25 | 1.00 | 50 | 10 | |
| " Middle States | 2.00 | 1.25 | 50 | 10 | |
| " Minnesota | 2.50 | 1.50 | 75 | 20 | |
| " New England | 3.50 | 1.75 | 1.00 | 20 | |
| " Quebec and Halifax | 4.00 | 2.00 | 1.00 | 20 | |
| Muskrat, Southern | 28 | 25 | 15 | 5 | |
| " Western | 30 | 28 | 18 | 6 | |
| " Northern | 32 | 30 | 20 | 8 | |
| " Eastern | 35 | 30 | 22 | 10 | |
| Opossum, Ohio | 30 | 20 | 10 | ||
| " Southern | 20 | 10 | |||
| Otter, Southern | 5.00 | 3.00 | 2.00 | 50 | |
| " Northern | 10.00 | 6.00 | 2.00 | 50 | |
| Rabbit | 3 | ||||
| Raccoon, Southern | 50 | 30 | 15 | 5 | |
| " Western | 1.00 | 50 | 20 | 5 | |
| " Michigan | 1.25 | 80 | 30 | 5 | |
| Seal, Hair | 60 | ||||
| " Fur | 10.00 | ||||
| Skunk, Black Cased | 1.00 | 60 | 40 | 10 | |
| " Half Stripe | 60 | 50 | 25 | 10 | |
| " White | 20 | 10 | |||
| Wolf, Timber | 3.00 | 1.50 | |||
| " Prairie | 1.00 | 75 | |||
| Wolverine | 5.00 | 2.00 | |||
| * From the "Hat Cap and Fur Trade Review." | |||||
Notwithstanding all these advertised prices, the young trapper often experiences great difficulty in a profitable disposal of his furs. Like every other business, the fur trade runs in its regular grooves, and the average furrier will often pay an experienced professional five dollars for a skin for which he would not offer a dollar to an amateur. This certainly seems discouraging, but the knowledge of the fact is calculated to prevent greater discouragement.
We often see fancy prices advertised by fur dealers for first-class skins; but when the furs are sent, only a few are selected as "prime," the rest being rejected as worthless, or perhaps meeting with a meagre offer far below the regular rates. In this way the dealers have the opportunity of choice selection without incurring any risk. Many a young trapper has been thus disappointed, and has seen his small anticipated fortune dwindle down to very small proportions.
The fur trade is supplied through regular professional channels; and in giving our advice to the novice, we would recommend as the most satisfactory and profitable plan that he should make his sales to some local hunter or trapper, who has had experience with the fur trade, and who is satisfied to pay a fair price for the various skins with the probability of selling at an advance, and thus realizing a profit.
In nearly every trapping locality such men are to be found, and although the prices earned may be below the market rates, the amateur takes none of the speculative risks of the business, and should be willing to take lower prices on this account.
AMERICAN FUR SKINS—THEIR USES AT HOME AND ABROAD.
In the early history of fur apparel, its use was determined by climate; to-day, and especially in this country, it is regulated by the caprice of fashion. The mink for many years took the lead in the list of fashionable furs, but has of late been superseded by the introduction of the fur seal. The most choice and costly of our American furs at the present day is the Silver Fox. When highly dressed they are worth from 10 to 50 guineas each in the European market. They are principally bought by the Russians and Chinese.
The skins of the Red Fox are purchased by the Chinese, Greeks, Persians, and other Oriental nations. They are made into linings for robes, etc., and ornamented with the black fur of the paws which is set on in spots or waves. The fur of the Beaver was formerly highly prized in the manufacture of hats. and yielded a large portion of the profits of the Fur Companies, constituting the largest item in value among furs. Cheaper materials have since been substituted in making hats, and the demand for this purpose has been greatly reduced. By a new process the skin is now prepared as a handsome fur for collars and gauntlets, and its fine silky wool has been successfully woven. The soft, white fur from the belly of the animal, is largely used in France for bonnets.
Raccoon skins are the great staple for Russia and Germany, where, on account of their durability and cheapness, they are in demand for linings for coats, etc. Among the Bear skins, those of the black and grizzly are extensively used for military caps, housings, holsters, sleigh robes, etc.
The fur of the Lynx is soft, warm and light, and is commonly dyed of a beautiful shining black. It is used for the facings and linings of cloaks, chiefly in America.
The Fisher yields a dark and full fur which is largely used in fashionable winter apparel.
The skin of the Marten, is richly dyed and utilized in choice furs and trimmings.
The Mink, like the two foregoing, belongs to the same genus as the Russian Sable, and its fur so much resembles the latter as to be sometimes mistaken for it. It is one of fashion's furs, and the hair of the tail is sometimes used in the manufacture of artist's pencils.
The Muskrat produces the fur most worn by the masses, and is largely exported into Germany, France and England. It is estimated that over six millions of muskrat skins are annually taken in America, and of that number one-half are used in Germany alone.
The skin of the Otter is at present classed among the leading fashionable furs in this country. They are dyed of a deep purplish black color, and are made into sacques, muffs, etc. It is also used by the Russians, Greeks and Chinese. It is mostly an American product, but is also procured to some extent in the British Isles from a smaller variety of the species.
The skins of the Wolf are chiefly used for sleigh robes and such purposes. The fur of the Rabbit is mainly employed in the manufacture of felt, and is also utilized for lining and trimming. The business of breeding rabbits for their fur has been introduced into the United States, and large numbers have been successfully raised in Danbury, Conn., for felting purposes connected with the manufacture of hats.
The fur of the Wolverine or Glutton, finds a market for the most part in Germany, where it is used for trimmings and cloak linings.
The Skunk furnishes the fur known as Alaska Sable, which forms one of our staple pelts, many thousands being annually exported to Poland and the adjacent provinces.
The Badger yields a valuable and fashionable fur, which is also extensively used in the manufacture of artist's brushes; a good "badger blender" forming a valuable accessory to a painter's outfit. Shaving brushes by the thousand are annually made from the variegated hair of the badger.
The Opossum yields a fur in very common use among the masses, and the skins of the domestic Cat are utilized to a considerable extent in the manufacture of robes, mats, etc. The fur of the Puma and Wild Cat are also employed in this form, and may often be seen handsomely mounted and hanging on the backs of sleighs on our fashionable thoroughfares. Among the small game the skins of Squirrels are used for linings, and the soft, velvety fur of the Mole is manufactured into light robes, and very fine hats, and in theatrical paraphernalia is sometimes employed for artificial eyebrows.
Full descriptions of the color of the various furs will be found in our lengthy illustrated chapter on our American animals.
A
Adirondack experiences with mosquitoes, [256].
Advice to the Novice on the sale of Furs, [283].
Air-tight Jar, for butter, &c., [236].
Alaska Sable, [286].—See also Skunk.
Alcohol, its use and abuse, [257].
Alum—used in waterproofing, [249].
"Amateur Trapping," [225].
AMBER, OIL OF, used in the art of Trapping, [152].
AMERICAN FUR SKINS.—Table of values, [284].
Their uses at Home and Abroad, [284].
American Lion.—See Puma.
Amputation, self inflicted, as a means of escape with captured animals, [144].
To prevent, [144], [145].
Ancient uses of Furs, [278].
ANISE, OIL OF.—
Its use in the art of trapping, [152].
As bait for fish, [240].
Annual yield of Furs throughout the world, [281].
Apparatus for stretching skins, [273].
Arrows, poisoned, [26].
Artificial Eyebrows of Mole Fur, [286].
ART OF TRAPPING, [148].
ASSAFŒTIDA.—
Its use by the Trapper, [151].
As scent bait for fish, [240].
ASTOR, JOHN JACOB, and the Fur Trade, [281].
Astringent Preparations, use of, in drying Skins, [273], [276].
B
BADGER, THE,—
Nature and habits of, [175].
Skinning the, [177].
Trapping the, [175].
Uses of Fur, [286].
Value of Fur, [284].
Bags, Waterproof, for food, [236].
Baiting the Steel Trap, [143].
Baits for fishing, [240].
Baits, scent, [149].
Bait, Trapping without, [148].
BARK SHANTY.—
Hints on, [266].
Details of construction, [245].
Bark-Stone.—See Castoreum.
Bark-Stone composition.—See Castoreum.
"Barque."—See Birch Bark Canoe.
Barrel Hoops used in canoe building, [264].
BARREL TRAPS, [125], [127], [133].
Basket for the shoulders, [234], [236].
Basswood-bark canoes, [264].
Bateaux, [264].
BAT FOWLING NET, [70].
Baking, recipe for, [253].
Bay Lynx.—See Wild Cat.
Beans as food, [235].
BEAR.—
Nature and habits of, [168], [227].
Trapping the, [168].
Traps for, [17], [29], [143].
Various species of, [168].
Directions for removing skin, [172].
Use of skin, [285].
Value of skin, [284].
"Bear Chasing," dangers of the sport, [170].
Bear Grease, [171].
Bear Meat, to roast, [233].
" " to dry, [237].
BEAVER.—
Nature and habits of, [177].
Trapping the, [177].
Skinning the, [182].
Skin, to tan, [277].
Use of fur, [285].
Value of skin, [284].
BEDS AND BEDDING, [248].
Bed, spring, [248].
" hammock, swinging, [249].
Bed clothes, [249].
BIG HORN, the, [220].
As food, [220], [238].
Nature and habits of, [220].
Trapping the, [220].
BIRCH BARK CANOE, remarks on, [226].
Directions for making, [261].
Bird-Catching Net, [70].
BIRD LIME, [97].
Masticated Wheat used as, [99].
Recipe for making, [98].
Used in capture of Puma, [35].
Used for capture of Humming Bird, [99].
Used in making Fly-paper, [136].
Used with an Owl as decoy, [98].
With paper cone, as a Crow trap, [96].
BIRD TRAPS, [65].
BIRD WHISTLE, [72].
BISON.—See Buffalo.
Black Fly.—See "Punkey."
Blanket, woollen, [250].
Rubber, [236].
Use of, [250].
Block-tin, used for kettles, &c., [235].
Blossom, utilized as a trap, [99].
Blow-gun, used in the capture of Humming Bird, [99].
BOARD FLAP, the, [130].
BOARD STRETCHERS, [273].
BOATS, remarks on, [226].
Manufacture of, [259].
The dug-out, or log canoe, [259].
The birch-bark canoe, [261].
The bateau, [264].
The scow, [267].
The flat-bottomed boat, [267].
Boiled Mush, [232].
" to fry, [232].
Boiling water used in bending wood, [268], [272].
Book I. TRAPS FOR LARGE GAME, [17].
II. SNARES OR NOOSE TRAPS, [39].
III. TRAPS FOR FEATHERED GAME, [65].
IV. MISCELLANEOUS TRAPS, [103].
V. HOUSEHOLD TRAPS, [125].
VI. STEEL TRAPS AND THE ART OF TRAPPING, [137].
VII. THE CAMPAIGN, [225].
VIII. THE TRAPPER'S MISCELLANY, [255].
Boots, hints on, [228].
Grease for, [228].
Bottle Lantern, [241].
" Match Safe, [234].
BOW STRETCHER, for skins, [274].
Box Bird Traps, [55], [88], [90], [91].
BOX DEAD FALL, [128].
Box Hut, used in Pickerel fishing, [241].
BOW OWL TRAP, [88].
BOX PIT-FALL, [131].
BOX TRAP, the, [103].
Two modes of setting, [105].
Box Traps, [55], [56], [88], [90], [91], [103], [106], [109], [110].
BOX TRAP, pendent, [91].
Brandy on a trapping campaign, [257].
Brass wire nooses, [41].
Brick Trap, [66].
Broiling, recipes for, [233].
Brook Trout, fishing through the ice, [240].
" To cook deliciously, [232].
Bruises, ointment for, [255].
Buckskin gloves, in handling traps, [149].
Building the camp fire, [233].
Buffalo, the, [220].
As food, [221], [238],
How hunted and trapped, [221].
Building boats, [259].
Butternut log, for canoe, [239].
Butter, to keep on a campaign, [236].
C
Cage traps for birds, [76].
" " mice, [134].
Call Birds, how used, [72].
CAMPAIGN LIFE IN THE WILDERNESS, [225].
CAMPAIGN, PLAN OF, [225].
Camp fire, [228].
To build, [233].
Camp Kettle, [235].
" Knife, [235].
Canada Grouse, [238].
" Lynx.—See Lynx.
" Moose.—See Moose.
Candles, in camp, [227].
" Novel way of using, [218].
Canned vegetables, [236].
CANOES, remarks on, [226].
" Basswood-bark, [264].
" Birch-bark, directions for building, [261].
" Hemlock bark, [264].
" Log.—See Dug-out.
" Spruce bark, [264].
Canton flannel bags, for bed clothes, [249].
Canvass-back Duck, as food, [239].
Canvas bags, waterproof, [236].
Caps, percussion, used in lighting fire, [234].
CAPTURE OF ANIMALS, [154].
CARPETING TENTS, [250].
CASTOREUM, or Barkstone, [150].
How obtained, [150].
How used.—See Beaver.
CASTOREUM COMPOSITION, [150].
Cat, domestic, use of skin, [286].
Value of skin, [284].
Cat, wild.—See Wild Cat.
Caution in baiting steel traps, [113].
Caution in handling steel traps, [149].
Chill, remedy for, [257].
Chimney-fire in log shanty, [245].
Chip as a plate, [232].
Chip, for a frying pan, [230], [232].
Chloride of Lime, as an antidote, [152].
Choosing a trapping ground, [225].
Cicely, Sweet, as scent bait in fishing, [240].
Cities built up by the fur trade, [281].
CLAP NET, [72].
Clearing tents and shanties from insects, [230].
Climate and fur apparel, [284].
CLOG, THE, [146].
Cloth for tent making, [247].
" Waterproof preparation for, [247].
Clothing, hints on, [228].
Coasting on the Indian sled, [270].
Cock of the plains, [238].
Coffee, [236].
Coffee-pot, [235].
Cold, remedy for, [257].
Combination camp-knife, [235].
COMMON BOX TRAP, [103].
Compass, pocket, [227].
Compound scent-bait, [150], [153].
Concealing steel traps, [229].
Cone of paper as a trap, [96].
Corrall, African trap, [34].
COOKING UTENSILS FOR A CAMPAIGN, [230], [235].
Coon.—See Raccoon.
COOP TRAP, [67].
" For large game, [33].
Cotton drilling, used for making tents, [247].
" Waterproof preparation for, [247].
"Cotton Tail."—See Rabbit.
Cougar.—See Puma.
Cow's udder, as fish bait, [240].
Crackers as food, [236].
Crow trap, [96].
CUMMIN, used in trapping, [152].
Cup, portable, [231].
CURING SKINS, [272].
Current price list of American furs, [284].
D
Dark lantern, used by bird catchers, [71].
Deer hunters, [217].
DEAD-FALLS, [17], [29], [107], [111], [113].
" Box, [128].
" For large game, [17].
" How set for the fox, [113].
" Stone, [29].
" Weighted harpoon, [26].
" With figure four trap, [114].
Dead fish, valuable in making trails, [153].
Decoy traps, [72], [76], [94].
" Whistle, [74].
" Owl used as, [98].
DEER, [124].
As food, [233], [237], [238].
How to skin the, [219].
Hunting at night, [217], [218].
Luminosity of eyes at night, [217], [218].
Natural characteristics of, [214].
Salt as bait for, [218].
Season for hunting, [218].
Trapping the, [214], [215].
Various modes of hunting, [217].
Various species of, [215].
Deer lick, the, [215].
Deer meat, to dry, [237].
Deer meat, to roast, [233].
Delmonico outdone, [232].
Detecting the direction of the wind by the finger, [217].
Devices used in connection with the steel trap, [144], [147].
Devils' Lantern, [241].
Diet of the Trapper, [230].
"DOUBLE ENDER," the, [109].
Double traps, [57], [109], [110], [129].
DOWN FALL, the, [26].
Dressing for fur skins, [273], [276].
Dressing for leather, [228].
Dressing skins for market, [272].
" Home use, [276].
Dried fish, [237].
Dried venison, [237].
Drilling, as tent material, [247].
" Waterproof preparation for, [247].
Drinking cup, portable, [231].
Drying skins, [272], [273], [276].
Ducks, various species of, [239].
As food, [239].
To cook deliciously, [233].
"DUG-OUT," THE, hints on, [226].
Detailed directions for making, [259].
E
Eels, oil prepared from, [151].
Elk.—See Moose.
"Ephraim."—See Bear.
Escaping from the mosquitoes, [255].
Exports of furs, [281], [285].
Extemporized frying pan, [232].
"Toaster," [233].
Extract of beef, Liebig's, [236].
Extravagance in fur apparel, [279].
F
False bottom traps, [127], [131], [133].
Fashion and fur, [279], [283], [285].
FEATHERED GAME, TRAPS FOR, [65].
Felt, use of rabbit-fur in making, [286].
FENNEL, OIL OF, used in trapping, [152].
FENUGREEK, OIL OF, used in trapping, [152].
FIGURE FOUR SNARE, [61].
FIGURE FOUR TRAP, [107].
" Used with Dead-Fall, [114].
Finger, as a weather vane, [217].
Fire, to build, [227].
" To light without matches, [234].
" With powder and cap, [234].
" Without "anything," [235].
Fire arms, [227].
" Oil for, [227].
Fire bottle, [241].
Fire Hat for night hunting, [218].
Fire-proof preparations for tents, [247].
Fish, to bake, [232].
To dry, [237].
To fry, [233].
FISHER MARTEN.—
How to trap the animal, [194].
Its nature and habits, [194].
Its common mode of release from capture, [144].
Method of skinning, [195].
Use of skin, [285].
Value of skin, [284].
FISH-HOOK, trap for ducks, [95].
Fishing, hints on, [239].
At night, [239].
Through the ice, [240].
Various baits, [240].
With tip-up. [240].
For pickerel, [240].
Fishing tackle, [227], [240], [241].
Fish lantern, [241].
FISH OIL, used in the art of trapping, [151].
How obtained, [151].
Fish, scent baits for, [240].
Spearing, [239].
Flat bottomed boats, [264], [267].
Flat bottomed sled.—See Toboggan
Flat stone, as a frying pan, [232].
Flower, converted into a trap, [99].
Fly, black.—See "Punkey."
FLY-PAPER, to make, [136].
Fly Tent, the, [246].
Fly traps, [136].
Food, portable, [230].
FOOD AND COOKING UTENSILS, [230].
"FOOLS' CAP" TRAP FOR CROWS, [96].
Forks, [235].
Fortunes founded on peltry, [281].
FOWLING NET, the, [70].
Fox.—
Nature and habits of, [154].
Trapping the, [154].
Trapped by a dead-fall, [111], [113].
Varieties of, [154].
Directions for skinning, [158].—See also Red and Silver Fox.
"Fox fire," used in capture of deer, [218].
Fritters, pork, to cook, [231].
" An extemporized, [232].
Fur Market, eccentricities of, [283].
Furs, ancient uses of, [278].
Annual yield throughout the world, [281].
Furs, best season for, [147].
"Home," [281].
Sale of, by Hudson's Bay Company, [281].
"Shipping," [281].
Table of market values, [282].
Fur skins, to cure for market, [272].
To tan, [276].
Hints on selling for profit, [283].
Various uses of, [285].
FUR TRADE, OBSERVATIONS ON, [278].
Immensity of, [281].
G
Game, protected from wolves, [237].
GAROTTE TRAP, [114].
Gloves to be used in trapping, [149].
Glutton.—See Wolverine.
Gnats, [230], [256].
Painful effects of their bites, [256].
Remedies for their bites, [255].
Driven away by the "Smudge," [230].
Gnat, black.—See "Punkey."
Goose trap, [75].
GOPHER.—
Nature and habits of, [205].
Trapping the, [205].
Traps for, [119], [120], [40].
Directions for skinning, [206].
Grappling iron, the, [146].
Grease for boots and shoes, [228].
"Great Bear Tamer," the, [142].
GRIZZLY BEAR.—
Nature and habits of, [169].
Trapping the, [169].
Traps for, [17], [142].
Use of fur, [285].
Ground plan of trapping lines, [228].
Ground, selection for trapping, [225],
GROUND SNARES, [44].
Grouse, as food, [233], [238].
Bait for, [42].
Oil of, for fire arms, [227].
Peculiarities of, [42].
Snares for, [39].
To cook deliciously, [233].
Various species of, [238].
GUN TRAP, [20].
H
Hair Nooses, [41].
Half tent, [246].
Hammocks, [250],
Hammock bed, [249].
Handling steel traps, caution in, [149].
Hanging bed, [249].
Hare.—See Rabbit.
HARPOON TRAP of Africa, [26].
Hat Brim, portable, [258].
Netting attachment for, [258].
Hat lantern for night hunting, [218].
Hawk snare, [43].
HAWK TRAP, [93].
Head lantern used in deer hunting, [218].
HEAD NET, [257].
HEDGE NOOSES, [41].
Hemlock bark canoes, [264].
Hemlock boughs, as bedding, [250].
Hemp, used in caulking boats, [261], [266].
"Hiding" steel traps, [229].
High top boots, [228].
Hints on baiting the steel trap, [143].
Hints on selection of trapping ground, [225].
Hints on skinning animals, [272].
Hints on trapping, [148].
Hints on plans of trapping lines, [228].
Hints on sale of furs, [283].
Hippopotamus trap, [26].
Historical items relating to furs and the fur trade, [278].
Hoe cake, to cook, [232].
Hogs carried off by bears, [170].
Hog's liver used as fish bait, [240].
"Home Furs," [281].
HOME-MADE BOAT, [264].
Honey as bait, [19], [31], [170].
Hook trap for ducks, [95].
Hopo, African trap, [34].
Hoop nooses, [40].
HOOP STRETCHER for skins, [275].
Horse hair nooses, to make, [41].
Hot drink for chills, [257].
HOUSEHOLD TRAPS, [125].
House Tent, [247].
How to select a steel trap, [138].
HOW TO TRAP, [153].
Hudson Bay Company, origin of, [280].
Sales of, [281], [282].
Humming bird, killed by concussion, [99].
" Snare, [99].
" Trap, [99].
" Various modes of capture, [99].
Hunting the deer, [217].
Hunting from trees, [218].
HUT, LOG.—See Log Shanty.
I
Implements required on a trapping campaign, [227].
Improved springle, [60].
INDIAN CANOE.—See BIRCH BARK CANOE.
Indian meal, as food, [231].
INDIAN SLEDGE.—See Toboggan.
INDIAN SNOW SHOE, [268].
India-rubber blanket, [236].
How used, [250].
INSECT OINTMENTS, [255].
Insect bites, remedies for, [255].
" Sores resulting from, [257].
Insects, to drive out from tent or shanty, [230], [256].
Intemperance, [257].
J
Jack knife, a valuable tool, [227].
Jar, as a trap, [135].
Jar, air-tight, for butter, [236].
"Jerked Venison," [231].
JOHN JACOB ASTOR, and the fur trade, [281].
Johnny cake, to cook, [232].
K
Kettle, camp, [235].
Knapsack, [234].
Directions for making, [236].
Knife, a necessary implement, [227].
Knife, the combination camp, [235].
Knives, table, [235].
L
Lake trout, fishing for, [240].
To cook deliciously, [232].
Lantern for the head, used by deer hunters, [218].
Lantern used by bird catchers, [71].
Lantern trap for fish, [241].
Large game, traps for, [17].
LAVENDER, used in the art of trapping, [152].
Leather preservative, [228].
"Le Chat."—See Lynx.
Lemonade, [236].
Lens, to light fire with, [234].
Lever for setting large steel traps, [142].
Liebig's extract of beef, [236].
Light, the trapper's, [227].
Light for the head in night hunting, [218].
Light home-made boat, [264].
Lime, chloride of, as a disinfectant, [152].
Liniment for wounds and bruises, [255].
" Insect bites, [255].
Linseed oil, used as bird lime, [98].
Lion, American.—See Puma.
LIST OF PRICES OF AMBRICAN FURS, [284].
Liver, as fish bait, [240].
LOG CABIN.—See Log Shanty.
Log Canoe.—See Dug-Out.
LOG COOP TRAP, [33].
LOG SHANTY, hints on, [226], [229].
Detailed directions for building, [244].
Site for building, [244], [287].
To clear of gnats and mosquitoes, [230].
Lucifer Matches.—See Matches.
"Luxuries," [234].
LYNX, THE CANADIAN, [164].
Natural characteristics of, [164].
Trapping the, [164].
Traps for, [17], [20], [23], [29], [33], [35], [141].
LYNX.—
Directions for skinning, [166].
Use of skin, [285].
Value of skin, [284].
M
Mackinaw and the Fur Trade, [281].
Mallard Duck as food, [239].
" to Cook.—See Duck.
MARKET VALUE OF FUR SKINS, [281].
Marmot.—See Woodchuck.
MARTEN:—
Nature and habits of, [192].
Trapping the, [192].
Its common mode of escape, [144].
Directions for removing skin, [194].
How to tan the Skin, [277].
Value and use of skin, [284], [285].
Mastic Varnish used in water-proofing, [234].
MATCHES, [227].
Bottle used for carrying, [234].
To render water-proof, [234].
Meal, Indian, as food, [231].
Meat, to dry, [237].
"MEDICINES," OR SCENT BAITS, [149].
Menagerie Whistle, [74].
Merganser, the, as food, [239],
To cook.—See Duck.
MIDGETS, [256].
Painful effect of their bites, [256].
Driven away by the "Smudge," [230].
Ointments for bites, [255].
Serious effects of bites on the intemperate, [257].
MINK:—
Nature and habits of, [189].
Trapping the, [189].
Traps for, [43], [141].
Its common mode of escape from the steel trap, [144].
Directions for skinning, [191].
To tan skin of, [277].
Extensive use of skins in America, [281].
Uses of skin, [285].
Value of skin, [284].
MISCELLANEOUS hints on trapping, [148].
MISCELLANY, the Trapper's, [255],
MISCELLANEOUS TRAPS, [103].
MOLE, [207].
Beauty of fur, [209], [211].
Life and habits of, [207].
Trapping the, [119], [210].
Traps for, [119], [120], [140].
Varieties of, [211].
Directions for skinning.—See Gopher.
Use of fur, [286].
Montreal and the Fur Trade, [281].
MOOSE:—
Nature and habits of, [219].
Trapping the, [220].
"Yards," [220].
Flesh as food, [220], [223], [238].
How to skin the animal, [220].
Moose meat, to roast, [233].
" Meat to dry, [237].
MOSQUITOES, [230].
Painful effects of their bites, [257].
Ointments for bites, [255].
Driven away by the "Smudge," [230].
Adirondack experiences with, [255], [256].
Head-net, [257].
Serious effects of bites on the intemperate, [257].
Mouse Traps, [124], [130], [131], [134], [135].
Mud Stick or Pusher, [267].
Mush, to boil, [232].
to fry, [232].
MUSK:—
Its use in the art of trapping, [151].
How obtained, [151].
MUSKRAT:—
Nature and habits of, [182].
Pit-fall Trap for, [133].
Spearing the, [183].
Trapping the, [182].
Traps for, [43], [107], [110], [111], [114], [133], [141].
Its common mode of release, [144].
Extensive use of skins in America, [281].
Skin, to remove, [185].
To tan, [277].
Use of, [286].
Value of, [284].
Muscovy Duck as food, [239].
To cook.—See Duck.
Musquaw.—See Bear.
N
Natural Advantages utilized by the Trapper, [149].
Natural History.
Necessity of its study in the art of Trapping, [148].
Neatsfoot Oil for Fire Arms, [227].
NET:—
" Bat fowling, [70].
" Bird catching, [70].
" Clap, [72].
" Decoy, [72].
" Fish, use of, [241].
Net for the head, [257].
" Fowling, [70].
Net traps, [70], [73], [75], [80], [83], [85].
For Tiger, Puma, or Wild Cat, [35].
Spring, [80].
The upright, [85].
Wild Duck, [94].
Wild Goose, [175].
Netting attachment for Hat brim, [258].
NEWHOUSE TRAP, THE, [138].
Night-fishing, [239].
Nooses:—
Horse hair, [41].
In hedge, [42].
On hoops, [40].
On string, [40].
NOOSE TRAPS, [39].
Nooses, wire, [41].
Northwest Fur Company, [280].
Nutting in Mid-winter, [212].
O
Oar-locks, simple, [266].
Oat-meal as food, [236].
OBSERVATIONS ON THE HISTORY OF FURS AND THE FUR TRADE, [278].
Oil, Fish.—
Used in trapping, [151].
How obtained, [151].
Oil of Amber.—
Used in the art of trapping, [152].
Oil of Ambergris.—
Used in the art of trapping, [152].
Oil of Anise:—
Its use in the art of trapping, [152].
Oil of Cinnamon:—
Its use in the art of trapping, [152].
Oil of Fennel:—
Its use in the art of trapping, [152].
Oil of Fenugreek:—
Its use In the art of trapping, [152].
Oil of Lavender:—
Its use in the art of trapping, [152].
Oil of Rhodium:—
Its use by trappers, [151].
Oil of Skunk:—
Its use by trappers, [151].
Oil:—
For fire arms, [227].
For light, [227].
Oil of Partridge:—
Its use, [227].
Oil of Pennyroyal:—
For insect bite, [255].
Ointment for Bruises and Wounds, [255].
OINTMENT FOR INSECT BITES, [255].
OLD-FASHIONED SPRINGLE, [58].
Olive Oil in cooking, [236].
OPOSSUM, [201].
Nature and habits of, [202].
Trapping the, [201].
Hunting the, [202].
Directions for skinning, [203].
Uses of skin, [286].
Value of skin, [284].
OTTER:—
Nature and habits of, [202].
Trapping the, [186].
Directions for skinning, [189].
How to tan the skin, [277].
Use of skin, [286].
Value of skin, [284].
OWL TRAP, [88].
Owl:—
Used in connection with bird lime as decoy, [98].
P
Paint as a water-proof covering, [236].
Painter, the.—See Puma.
Panther, the.—See Puma.
Paper Cone used as a trap, [96].
Partridge, [42], [238].
As food, [238].
Fat for fire arms, [227].
Snares, [39], etc.
To cook deliciously, [233].
Peltry:—
Fortunes founded on, [281].
Cities built up on, [281].
PENDENT BOX, BIRD TRAP, [91].
Pennyroyal for insect bites, [255].
Pepper Tea as a remedy, [257].
Percussion Cap used in lighting lire, [234].
Peshoo, the.—See Lynx.
Phosphorescent wood used in night-hunting, [218].
Phosphorus lantern for catching fish, [241].
Pickerel fishing, [240].
" Spearing, [241].
" Trap for, [121].
" To cook, [233].
Pigeon Net-trap, [72].
Pigs carried off by Bears, [170].
Pine Log Canoe.—See Dug-out.
Pinnated Grouse, [238].
Pitch for stopping leaks, [261], [264], [266].
PIT-FALL TRAPS.—
For large game, [31].
For small game, [125], [127], [131].
Barrel, [127].
Box, [131].
For Muskrat, [133].
PLAN OF TRAPPING CAMPAIGN, [225].
Plates, substitutes for, [232], [235].
Platform snare. [61].
Poachers, or trap robbers, [229].
POACHER'S SNARE, [48].
Pocket compass, [227].
POCKET HAT BRIM, [258].
" Sun-glass, [234].
Poisoned arrows, [26].
POISONING, [222].
Pop-corn as bait for Quail, [54].
Portable boats, [259].
Portable food & cooking utensils, [230], [235].
Portable drinking cup, [231].
Hat brim, [258].
" With netting attached, [258].
Snares, [50], [52].
Stove, [228], [235].
Pork as food, [231].
" Fritters, [251].
" " To make, [232].
"Possum."—See Opossum.
Potatoes as food, [235].
Pouched Rat.—See Gopher.
Powder used in lighting fire, [234].
Prairie Hen, [238].
Prairie Whistle, [74].
Precautions in handling steel traps, [156].
PREFACE, [3].
Preparation of skins for market, [272].
Preserve jar used as trap, [135].
Price Current of American Furs, [284].
Prime fur, best season for, [147].
Prof. Blot outdone in cooking, [232].
Profit in selling furs, [233].
PRONGHORN Antelope, [221].
Nature and habits of, [221].
How hunted and trapped, [221], [238].
Provisions, to protect from Wolves, [237].
Ptarmigan, to cook, [233].
Trap for, [75].
How hunted and trapped, [239].
Various species of, [230].
PUMA:—
Bait for, [20], [31], [32], [163].
Nature and habits of, [161].
Peculiarities of, [20].
Traps for, [17], [20], [23], [29], [31], [33], [141].
Trapping the, [161].
Directions for skinning, [164].
Use of skin, [286].
Value of skin, [284].
Pumice Stone, used in finishing skins, [276].
"PUNKEY."—
Description of the Insect, [256].
Severity of bites, [256].
Ointment for bites, [255].
Serious effects of bites on the intemperate, [257].
Punk Tinder, used in lighting fire, [234].
"Pusher."—See Mud stick.
Putty, for stopping leaks, [261].
Q
" Snares, [39], [40], [41], etc.
To cook deliciously, [233].
Quotations of the Fur Market, [284].
R
RABBIT:—
As food, [238].
Bait for, [203].
How to skin, [204].
Nature and habits of, [203].
Salt as bait for, [109],
Traps for, [43], [64], [103].
Use of fur, [286].
Value of fur, [284].
Varieties of, [203].
RACCOON:—
As a pet, [173].
Nature and habits of, [172].
Trapping the, [172].
Traps for, [110], [116], [141].
Hunting the, [172].
Directions for skinning, [175].
How to tan the skin, [277].
Use of the fur, [285].
Value of the fur, [284].
Rat:—
Snares for, [43].
Trapping the, [125].
Traps for, [43], [125], [127], [128], [131], [138].
Rations for a Campaign, [230].
Raw Furs.—See Furs.
Recipe for insect ointments, [255].
Boot grease, [228].
For cooking, [230].
For curing skins, [272].
For tanning skins, [276].
Red Fox.—See Fox.
Red Fox.—
Value of skin, [284].
Use of skin, [285].
Red Pepper Tea as a remedy, [257].
Red Squirrel.—See Squirrel.
Remedies for insect bites, [255].
For chills, [257].
Requisites of a good steel trap, [138].
" For snaring, [39].
" For a good trapping ground, [225].
" For a trapping campaign, [227].
Revolver, [227].
Reynard outwitted by a dead-fall, [111], [113].
RHODIUM, Oil of:—
Its use by the trapper, [151].
Rice as food, [236].
Rifle and Shot Gun combined, [227].
Oil for, [227].
RIFLE TRAP, [20].
Roasting, recipes for, [233].
Rocky Mountain Sheep.—See Big Horn.
"Roughing it," [230].
Rubber blanket, [236].
How used, [250].
Ruffed Grouse.—See Partridge.
Rum on a trapping campaign, [257].
S
Sage Cock, the, [238].
Sale of furs by the Hudson's Bay Company, [282].
Salmon, spearing, [239].
" Spear, [239].
Salmon Trout, spearing, [239].
Salmon, to cook deliciously, [232].
Salt as bait for Deer, [218].
As bait for Rabbit, [109].
Salt Lick, the, [218].
Sandpaper used in softening skins, [276].
Salt Pork as food, [231].
SCENT BAITS, [149].
Scented baits for birds, [240].
Scented baits for fish, [240].
Season for Deer hunting, [218].
Scow, [267].
Season for trapping, [147].
Selection of trapping ground, [225].
Self-amputation as a means of escape with captured animals, [144].
Self-amputation, to prevent, [144], [145].
Self-raising flour, [235].
SELF-SETTING TRAPS, [110], [125], [127], [131].
SHANTY:—
Bark.—See Bark Shanty.
"Home."—See Log Shanty.
Log.—See Log Shanty.
Sheeting as tent material, [247].
Water-proof, preparation for, [247].
Shellac Varnish used in water-proofing, [234].
SHELTER:—The trapper's remarks on, [226].
Shelter tent, [247].
Details of construction, [242].
Shingle stretchers for skins, [274].
"Shipping furs," [281].
SHOOTING AND POISONING, [222].
Shot-gun Trap, [20].
Shot-gun combined with rifle, [267].
Shoulder basket, [234], [226].
SIEVE TRAP, [65].
Silver Fox, [154].
Value of skin, [284], [285].
Skinning animals, hints on, [272].
Skins:—
Stretchers for, [273].
To dry, [272], [276].
To soften, [276], [277].
To tan, [276].
Value of, [284].
Use of, [285].
SKUNK, [195].
Adventure with, [196].
As food, [238].
Nature and habits of, [195].
Trapping the, [195].
Traps for, [43], [111], [114], [141].
To eradicate odor of, [152], [198].
Oil of, used in trapping, [151].
Directions for skinning, [198].
Use of skin, [286].
Value of skin, [284].
Sled, Indian.—See Toboggan.
SLIDING POLE, [145].
Slippery Elm used for bird-lime, [98].
"Small Game" as food, [237].
Smell, acute sense of, in animals, [148].
Smoking the steel trap, [128].
Smouldering birch bark to drive away insects, [230].
SNARE.—
Box, [55].
Double box, [56].
Fig. Four, [62].
Hawk, [43].
Hedge, [42].
Hoop, [40].
Humming-bird, [99].
Knotted string, [52], [53], [54].
Pasteboard box, [56].
Platform, [61].
Poacher's, [48].
Portable, [48], [50], [52].
Quail, [53].
Rat, [43].
"Simplest," [52].
Springle, [58], [60].
Stovepipe, [120].
Tree, [42].
Triangle, [42].
Twitchup, [43].
Wood Chuck, [43].
SNARES, OR NOOSE TRAPS, [37].
Snaring, requisites for, [39].
Snow Grouse, the, [238].
SNOW-SHOES, [267].
Snow-shoe race, [267].
Softening skins, [276], [277].
Sores resulting from insect bites, [257].
Soups, recipes for, [236].
Spearing Muskrats, [183].
Spider for cooking, [233].
Spoons, [235].
Spring-bed, [249].
Spring-net Traps, [80].
Spring-pole, the, [144].
Spring, to temper, [84].
Spruce Bark Canoes, [264].
Spruce boughs as bedding, [250].
Spruce Grouse, [238].
SQUIRRELS, [211].
As food, [238].
Nature and habits of, [211].
Traps for, [43], [103], [106], [107], [110], [116], [128], [140].
Various species of, [213].
To cook, [233].
Use of skins, [286].
STEEL TRAPS, [137].
Caution in handling, [149].
Concealing in the woods, [229],
Various modes of setting, [144].
Requisite number for a campaign, [227].
To set for rats, [128].
To select judiciously, [138].
Requisites of, [138].
Hints on baiting, [143].
Steel Trap spring, to set with lever, [142].
STEEL TRAPS AND THE ART OF TRAPPING, [137].
Still hunting, [217].
Stimulants, [257].
Stone Dead-fall, [29].
Storing traps in the woods, [229].
Stove, portable, [228], [235].
Stovepipe fish-trap, [120].
St. Paul, Minn., and the Fur Trade, [281].
STRETCHERS FOR SKINS, [273].
Strychnine poisoning, [222].
Sucker wire nooses, [41].
Sugar of lead used in water-proofing, [247].
Sweet Cicely as bait for fish, [240].
SWEET FENNEL.—
Oil used in trapping, [152],
Sweet Oil and Tar Ointment for insect bites, [255].
Swinging bed, [249].
Table knife and bowl trap, [135].
Table showing sale of furs by Hudson Bay Company, [282].
Tallow, mutton, as ointment, [255].
Tame Geese as decoys, [75].
TANNING SKINS, [276].
Mixtures, [276], [277], [278].
With the hair on, [276].
Simple, [278].
Tar and Sweet Oil ointment for insect bites, [255].
Tar for water-proofing, [264].
Tea, [236].
" Red pepper, as a remedy, [257].
Teal Ducks as food, [239].
To cook.—See Duck.
"Telescope" Drinking Cup, [231].
Tempering iron spring, [84].
TENTS, [246].
House-tent, [246].
Fly-tent, [247].
Half-tent, [247].
Shelter-tent, [247].
Materials, [247].
Water-proof preparation for, [247].
Fire-proof preparation for, [247].
To carpet with spruce, [250].
To clear of gnats and musquitoes, [230].
TENT CARPETING, [250].
Thimble used with bowl as Mouse trap, [136].
Tiger captured with bird lime, [35].
Tiger trap, [31].
Tinder, [234].
Tip-ups, [240].
Toaster, an extemporized, [233].
TOBOGGAN, OR INDIAN SLEDGE, [269].
Tools required on a trapping campaign, [227].
Tools required for canoe building, [259].
Torch for the head, used in night hunting, [218].
"Touch-wood " used in lighting fire, [234].
Trail. The.—
Its value to the trapper, [153].
Various modes of making, [153].
TRAP.—
Arrow, [23], [25].
Barrel. [125], [127].
Bird, [65], [70], [73], [75], [88], [90], [91], [96].
Bow, [23], [25], [116].
Bowl, [135].
Box, [55], [56], [88], [90], [91], [103], [106], [109], [110].
Brick, [66].
Cage, [76], [134].
Cob house, [67].
Coon, [110], [116], [141].
Coop, [33], [67], [70].
Crow, [96].
Dead-fall, [17], [107], [111].
Decoy, [72], [76], [94].
Double ender, [109].
Down-fall, [26].
Duck, [94], [95].
Fish, [120].
Fish hook, [95].
Fly, [136].
Fool's-cap, [96].
Garotte, [114].
Gun, [20].
Harpoon, [26].
Hawk, [42], [93].
Hook, [95].
Jar, [135].
Mole, [119], [120].
Mouse, [130], [131], [134], [135].
Net, [70], [73], [75], [80], [83], [85].
Owl, [88].
Partridge, [43], etc.
Pendent Box, [91].
Pitfall, [11], [125], [127], [131].
Ptarmigan, [75].
Quail, [39], [40], [41], [53].
Rabbit, [43], [64], [103].
Rat, [43], [125], [127], [128], [131], [138].
Rifle, [20].
Self-setting, [110], [125], [127], [131].
Sieve, [65].
Spring net, [80], [83], [85].
Steel, [140].
The "Newhouse," [140].
Tree, [42], [91].
Upright net, [85].
Wild Duck, [94], [95].
Wild Goose, [75].
Woodchuck, [43].
Trapper's beds and bedding, [248].
" Cooking utensils, [230].
" Diet, [230].
TRAPPER'S MISCELLANY, [255].
" Sled.—See Toboggan.
TRAPPING, art of, [148].
Season for, [147].
Miscellaneous hints on, [148].
Campaign, plan of, [225].
Tools and other requisites, [227].
Ground, selection of, [225].
Valuable suggestions on, [228].
Trapping Lines, [226].
Trap robbers, [220].
Traps for large game, [17].
FOR FEATHERED GAME, [65].
HOUSEHOLD, [125].
Tree hunting, [218].
Tree snare, [42].
TRIANGLE SNARE, [42].
Trout, to cook deliciously, [232].
Trumpet Creeper flower used as a trap, [99].
Tumbler fly-trap, [136].
Twitch-up, [43], [62].
Poacher's, [48].
Portable, [50].
"Simplest," [52].
U
UPRIGHT NET TRAP, [85].
Use and abuse of Alcohol, [257].
Uses of fur skins, [285].
Utensils for cooking, [230], [235].
V
Value of fur skins, table of, [262].
Various uses of fur skins, [285].
Varnish water-proof preparation for preserving matches, [234].
Vegetables for food on a campaign, [235].
" Canned, [236].
Venison as food, [233], [237].
To roast, [233].
To preserve, [237].
"Jerked," [237].
Dried, [237].
W
Walking on the snow, [267].
War in the fur trade, [281].
Watch crystal as sun glass, [287].
Water fowl as food, [239].
Water-proof application for boats, [261], [264], [266].
" Canvas bags, for food, [236].
Match safe, [234].
" Preparation, [236], [247], [266].
" Varnish for matches, [234].
Wedge stretcher for skins, [274].
Weighted harpoon trap, [26].
Wheaten grits as trappers' food, [236].
Wheat flour as food, [235].
" Self-raising, [235].
Wheel form of trapping lines, [229].
Whiskey on a trapping campaign, [257].
Whip lashes from Woodchuck hide, [204].
Whistlebird, [74].
White Birch Canoe, [261].
White-wood log for Dug-out, [259].
Widgeon, the, as food, [239].
To cook.—See Duck.
WILD CAT:—
Nature and habits of, [167].
Snares for, [43].
Trapping the, [166].
Skinning the, [168].
Uses of skin, [286].
Value of skin, [284].
Wild Duck, to cook, [233].
Wild Goose as food, [239].
Wild Goose to cook, [233].
Wild Goose trap, [75].
Wind, direction of, to detect by the finger, [217].
Winged vermin, [255].
Winter fishing, [240].
Wire cage trap for birds, [76].
" " For mice, [134].
Wire nooses, [41].
WOLF.—
Nature and habits of, [158].
Trapping the, [158].
Poisoning the, [222].
Traps for, [20], [141].
To protect provisions from, [237].
Varieties of, [158].
Directions for skinning, [161].
Use of skin, [286].
Value of skin, [284].
WOLVERINE:—
Nature and habits of, [199],
[238].
Trapping the, [199].
Natural enemy to the Beaver, [200].
Directions for skinning, [201].
Use of skin, [286].
Value of skin, [284].
WOODCHUCK, [204].
As food, [238].
Nature and habits of, [204].
Snare, [205].
Trapping the, [204].
Use of skin, [204].
Smoked from its burrow, [205].
Removing skin of, [205].
Woodcock, to cook, [233].
Wood Duck as food, [239].
To cook.—See Duck.
Woodland beds and bedding, [249].
Wounds, ointment for, [255].