CONTENTS

[
CHAPTER I.
]
A CUBAN WELCOME.
Our Reception at Santiago de Cuba--Spanish Law--A Commemorative Feast--Cuban Courtesy--Coffee House Politeness
[
CHAPTER II.
]
DAILY LIFE IN CUBA.
A Cuban Home--My Bed-Room--A Creole Breakfast--Don Benigno and his Family--A Cuban Matron--Church-going in connection with Shopping--An Evening Tertulia--A Tropical Moon
[
CHAPTER III.
]
ART-PATRONAGE IN CUBA.
Our Studio--Our Critics--Our Patrons--Still-Life
[
CHAPTER IV.
]
A CUBAN 'VELORIO.'
More Still-Life--A Night-Wake--Mourners--Doña Dolores--A Funeral Procession--A Burial
[
CHAPTER V.
]
CUBAN MODELS.
Tropical Birds--The Coco's--La Grulla--Vultures--Street Criers--Water Carriers
[
CHAPTER VI.
]
CUBAN BEGGARS.
Carrapatam Bunga--The Havana Lottery--A Lady Beggar--A Beggar's Opera--Popular Characters--Charity--A Public Raffle--The 'King of the Universe'
[
CHAPTER VII.
]
THE BLACK ART IN CUBA.
A Model Mulatto--A Bewitched Watchman--Cuban Sorcery--An Enchanted Painter
[
CHAPTER VIII.
]
A TASTE OF CUBAN PRISON-LIFE.
Two Views of the Morro Castle--The Commandant--The Town Jail--Cuban Policemen--Prisoners--A Captive Indian--Prison Fare--A Court of Justice--A Trial--A Verdict
[
CHAPTER IX.
]
A WEST INDIAN EPIDEMIC.
A Cuban Physician and his Patient--A Nightmare--A Mystery--A Cure--By the Sad Sea Waves--A Cuban Watering-place--Lobster-hunting--Another View of the Morro Castle--What 'Dios sabe' means
[
CHAPTER X.
]
GENERAL TACON'S JUDGMENT.
Pleasant Company--The Cigar Girl of Havana--A Tobacconist Shop in Cuba--A Romance of Real Life--Spanish Justice abroad
[
CHAPTER XI.
]
(VERY) HIGH ART IN CUBA.
On the Ceiling--'Pintar-monos'--A Chemist's Shop à la Polychrome--Sculpture under Difficulties--'Nothing like Leather'--A Triumph in Triumphal Arches--Cuban Carpenters--The Captain-General of Havana
[
CHAPTER XII.
]
A CORRESPONDENT IN THE WEST INDIES.
American News-agents and their Work--Local Information--The 'Glorious Campaign' of Santo Domingo--'El Cañon de Montecristo' Wounded Soldiers--Still-Life again--A Visit from the Spanish Fleet--Escape from Jail
[
CHAPTER XIII.
]
CUBAN MUSIC.
A Soirée at Don Laureano's--An eminent Violinist and Composer--Cuban Pianos--Real Negro Minstrels--Carnival Songs--Coloured Improvisatores
[
CHAPTER XIV.
]
MASQUERADING IN CUBA.
Deserted--'Los Mamarrachos'--A French-Creole Ball--Street Masquers--Negro Amateurs--Masks and Dominoes--The Plaza de Armas--Victims of the Carnival--A Cuban Café in Holiday Time--'Comparsas'--White and Black Balls--A Moral
[
CHAPTER XV.
]
AN EVENING AT THE RETRETA.
A Musical Promenade--My Friend Tunicú--Cuban Beauties--Dark Divinities--A Cuban Café--A Popular 'Pollo'--Settling the Bill!
[
CHAPTER XVI.
]
AT A CUBAN BALL.
The Philharmonic and its Members--A Street Audience--The Guests--Engaging Partners--'La Carabina'--'La Danza Criolla'--Dance Music--Refreshments--A Pretty Partner--A Night with Cuban Gamblers--Spanish Cards--An Old Hand--'Temblores'
[
CHAPTER XVII.
]
CUBAN THEATRICALS.
The Stage-Door Keeper--A Rehearsal--The Spanish Censor--A Cuban Audience--Dramatic Performances--Between Acts--Behind the Scenes--A Dénouement in Real Life
[
CHAPTER XVIII.
]
MY DÉBUT ON A CUBAN STAGE.
An Engagement--A Foreign 'Star'--A Benefit Night--A Local Play--First Appearance--A serious 'Hitch'--Re-engagement
[
CHAPTER XIX.
]
COFFEE GROUNDS OF CUBA.
Going out of Town--On the Road--A wayside Inn--A Cane Field--West Indian Fruit Trees--The Arrival--A Dinner in the Country--The Evening Blessing--Tropical Reptiles--A Farm Yard--Slave Flogging--Coffee--Tropical Scenery--A Siesta
[
CHAPTER XX.
]
COUNTRY-LIFE AT A SUGAR ESTATE.
An Artist's Tent--Early Sport--An 'Ingenio'--Sugar and Rum--Afternoon Sport--A Ride through the Country--Negro Dancing--An Evening in the Country--'La Loteria'
[
CHAPTER XXI.
]
LOVE-MAKING IN THE TROPICS.
My Inamorata--Clandestine Courtship--A Love Scene--'Il Baccio' in Cuba--The Course of True Love--A Stern Parent
[
CHAPTER XXII.
]
A CUBAN CONVENT.
Without the Walls--'El Torno'--A Convent Letter--Accomplices--A Powder Plot--With the Nuns--Don Francisco the Dentist
[
CHAPTER XXIII.
]
A CRUISE IN THE WEST INDIES.
Cuban Telegraphy--The 'New York Trigger'--News from Porto Rico--A Day in Porto Rico--Don Felipe--A Mail Agent--Coasting--Aguadilla--Mayagüez--Santo Domingo--Sight-seeing--Telegraphic News
[
CHAPTER XXIV.
]
A STATE OF SIEGE IN CUBA.
A Cuban Newspaper Office--Local Intelligence--The Cuban Revolution--Spanish Volunteers--A Recruit--With Bimba--'Los Insurrectos'--At a Fire--Cuban Firemen
[
CHAPTER XXV.
]
CUBAN WARFARE.
Spanish Soldiers--A Sally--Prisoners of War--'Los Voluntarios'--A Triumphant Return--Danger!--Cuban Emigrants
[
CHAPTER XXVI.
]
HAVANA CIGARETTES.
Cigars--The Etiquette of Smoking--A Cigarette Manufactory--The Courteous Proprietor--The Visitors' Book--Cigarette Rolling
[
CHAPTER XXVII.
]
A MULATTO GIRL.
An Obscure Birth--Bondage--A Bad Master--A Good Godfather--A Cuban Christening--Anomaly of Slavery--A White Lover--Rivals--An Important Event
[
CHAPTER XXVIII.
]
A MULATTO GIRL (continued).
The Slave Trade--Ermiña and her Lover--Panics--'Los Insurrectos' v. 'Los Voluntarios'--A Wounded Patriot--Spanish Law and Cuban Law--The 'Mambi's'--A Promise--An Alarm--All's Well that ends Well
[
CHAPTER XXIX.
]
A CUBAN WEDDING.
Open Engagements--A Marriage Ceremony--A Wedding Breakfast--The Newly Married Couple
[
CHAPTER XXX.
]
CUBANS IN NEW YORK.
The Morro Castle again--Summer and Winter--Cuban Refugees--Filibusters--'Los Laborantes' of New York and their Work--American Sympathisers

THE