[Numerous typographical errors, as well as many (but not all) of the mis-placed or missing accents of Spanish words, have been corrected. Please see the list of these at the end of this etext. (note of etext transcriber)]

The Story of Seville

"He who Seville has not seen,
Has not seen a marvel great."
"To whom God loves He gives a house in Seville."
Popular Spanish Sayings.

All Rights Reserved

PREFACE

IN the story of Seville I have endeavoured to interest the reader in the associations of the buildings and the thoroughfares of the city.

I do not claim to have written a full history of Seville, though I have sketched the salient events in its annals in the opening chapters of this book. The history of Seville is the history of Spain, and if I have omitted many matters of historical importance from my pages, it is because I wished to focus attention upon the city itself. I trust that I have succeeded in awaking here and there an echo of the past, and in bringing before the imagination the figures of Moorish potentate or sage, and of Spanish ruler, artist, priest and soldier.

Those who are acquainted with the history of Spain will appreciate the difficulty that besets the historian in the matter of chronological accuracy, and even in a narration of many of the main events. The chronicles of the Roman, Gothic and Moorish epochs are hardly accepted as reliable. Patriotic bias and religious enthusiasm are elements that frequently mislead in the making of history, though the Spaniard is not alone in the commission of error in this respect.

Seville abounds with human interest. The city may at the first glance slightly disappoint the visitor, but he cannot wander far without a growing sense of its fascination. Most of the noteworthy buildings are hidden amidst narrow alleys, for the designers of the city have shown great economy in utilising space. It is therefore difficult to gain large general views of Seville, unless one ascends the Giralda, while the obtrusion of modern dwelling-houses and stores often mars the view of fine public edifices. But the modernity of Seville seldom strikes one as wholly out of place and in sharp contrast to the ancient monuments. The plan is Morisco, and the impression conveyed is partly Moorish and partly mediæval. In a word, Seville brings us at every step closely in touch with antiquity.

For the chapters on the Artists of Seville I am indebted to C. Gasquoine Hartley (Mrs. Walter M. Gallichan), who has devoted much study to the art of Spain. The drawings by Miss Elizabeth Hartley were prepared while I was gathering material for the book in Seville, and the illustrations will be found to refer to the text. I have also to thank my brother, Mr. F. H. Gallichan, for his plan of the city.

The frontispiece photograph of Goya's picture of SS. Justa and Rufina was reproduced in the Art Journal as an illustration to an article on "Goya" by C. Gasquoine Hartley. My thanks are due to Messrs. Virtue & Company for permission to reproduce the picture in this book.

WALTER M. GALLICHAN.

THE CRIMBLES,
YOULGREAVE, BAKEWELL,
August 20, 1903.

CONTENTS
[CHAPTER I]
PAGE
Romans, Goths and Moors [1]
[CHAPTER II]
The City Regained[26]
[CHAPTER III]
Seville under the Catholic Kings[62]
[CHAPTER IV]
The Remains of the Mosque[73]
[CHAPTER V]
The Cathedral[85]
[CHAPTER VI]
The Alcázar[110]
[CHAPTER VII]
The Literary Associations of the City [129]
[CHAPTER VIII]
The Artists of Seville[146]
[CHAPTER IX]
Velazquez and Murillo[165]
[CHAPTER X]
The Pictures in the Museo[176]
[CHAPTER XI]
The Churches of the City[187]
[CHAPTER XII]
Some Other Buildings[201]
[CHAPTER XIII]
Seville of To-day[213]
[CHAPTER XIV]
The Alma Mater of Bull-fighters[242]
[CHAPTER XV]
Information for the Visitor[262]
Index[269]
[Alterations made by the etext transcriber]
ILLUSTRATIONS
PAGE
SS. Justa and Rufina, from the painting byGoya (photogravure) [Frontispiece]
Roman Amphitheatre at Italica[1]
The Guadalquivir[3]
Roman Walls[8]
The Pillars of Hercules and Julius Cæsar[11]
Moorish Fountain in the Court of Oranges[23]
Roman Capital[25]
Old Walls of the Alcázar[41]
Sword of Isabella[49]
Plaza San Francisco[55]
Fountain in Bath, Alcázar[66]
Puerta del Perdón[75]
Stone Pulpit in Court of Oranges[78]
Cuerpo de Azucenas[79]
The Giralda[84]
Pinnacle of the Cathedral[87]
Puerta Mayor—The Central Door of the Cathedral[89]
Pinnacle of the Cathedral[91]
Interior of the Cathedral[97]
Patio de las Doncellas[111]
In the Garden of the Alcázar[125]
Cancela of the Casa Pilatos[133]
The Guardian Angel (Murillo)[facing 172]
The Conception (Murillo)[facing 178]
The Road to Calvary (Valdés Leal) [facing 180]
Saint Hugo in the Refectory (Zurbaran) [facing 182]
The Crucifixion (Montañes) [facing 186]
Minaret of San Marcus[190]
Puerta de Santa Maria[195]
Patio del Casa Murillo[203]
Amphora[212]
Patio del Colegio, San Miguel[215]
The Golden Tower[223]
A Roof Garden[238]
Arms of Seville[241]
Plan of City (not available) [facing 268]