The Journey of Life,

THIS VOLUME
THE RECORD OF MY LONGEST AMERICAN JOURNEY
IS AFFECTIONATELY
DEDICATED.

PREFACE.

It was the intention of the writer to publish a narrative descriptive of his overland tour from the Atlantic to the Pacific soon after returning from California in 1876, and his excuse for the delay in publication is that a variety of circumstances compelled him to postpone for a time the duty of arranging the contents of his journal until other pressing matters had been satisfactorily attended to. Again, considerable unfinished literary work, set aside when he began preparation for crossing the Continent, had to be resumed, and for these reasons the story of his journey from "Ocean to Ocean on Horseback" is only now ready for the printer. In view of this delay in going to press, the author will endeavor to show a due regard for the changes time has wrought along his line of march, and while noting the incidents of his long ride from day to day, it has been his aim so far as possible to discuss the regions traversed, the growth of cities and the development of their industries from the standpoint of the present.

Albany, New York,

August 22, 1895.

CONTENTS.

[CHAPTER I.]

INTRODUCTORY.

Boyhood Longings—Confronted by Obstacles—Trapping Along the Oswegatchie—Enter Gouverneur Wesleyan Seminary—Appointed to State Normal College—Straitened Circumstances—Teach School in Rensselaer County—War of the Rebellion—Enlist in a Cavalry Regiment—Taken Prisoner—Fourteen Months in Southern Prisons—Escape from Columbia—Recaptured—Escape from Sylvania, Georgia—Re-enter the Army—Close of the War—Publish "Capture, Prison-Pen and Escape" and Other Books—Decide to Cross the Continent—Preparation for Journey—Ocean to Ocean on Horseback 25

[CHAPTER II.]

BOSTON AND ITS ENVIRONS.

Early History and Development—Situation of the Metropolis of New England—Boston Harbor—The Cradle of Liberty—Old South Church—Migrations of the Post Office—Patriots of the Revolution—The Boston Tea Party—Bunker Hill Monument—Visit of Lafayette—The Public Library—House where Franklin was Born—The Back Bay—Public Gardens—Streets of Boston—Soldiers' Monument—The Old Elm—Commonwealth Avenue—State Capitol—Tremont Temple—Edward Everett—Wendell Phillips—William Loyd Garrison—Phillips Brooks—Harvard University—Wellesley College—Holmes, Parkman—Prescott, Lowell, Longfellow—Boston's Claims to Greatness 32

[CHAPTER III.]

LECTURE AT TREMONT TEMPLE.

Subject of Lecture—Objects Contemplated—Grand Army of the Republic—Introduction by Captain Theodore L. Kelly—Reference to Army and Prison Experiences—Newspaper Comment—Proceeds of Lecture Given to Posts 7 and 15—Letter to Adjutant-General of Department 70

[CHAPTER IV.]

BOSTON TO ALBANY.

First Day of Journey—Start from the Revere House—Escorted to Brighton by G. A. R. Comrades—Dinner at Cattle Fair Hotel—South Framingham—Second Day—Boston and Albany Turnpike—Riding in a Rain-storm—Arrival at Worcester—Lecture in Opera House—Pioneer History—Rapid Growth of Worcester—Lincoln Park—The Old Common—Third and Fourth Days—The Ride to Springfield—Met by Wife and Daughter—Lecture at Haynes Opera House—Fifth Day—Ride to Russell—The Berkshire Hills—Sixth Day—Journey to Becket—Rainbow Reflections—Seventh Day—Over the Hoosac Mountains—Eighth Day—Arrival at Pittsfield—Among the Lebanon Shakers—Ninth Day—Reach Nassau, New York 81

[CHAPTER V.]

FOUR DAYS AT ALBANY.

Nassau to Albany—Among Old Friends in Rensselaer County—Thoughts of Rip Van Winkle—Crossing the Hudson—Albany as Seen from the River—Schoolday Associations—Early History—Settled by the Dutch—Henry Hudson—Killian Van Rensselaer—Fort Orange—Peter Schuyler and Robert Livingstone—Lecture at Tweddle Hall—Call at the Capitol—Meet Army Comrades. 110

[CHAPTER VI.]

ALBANY TO SYRACUSE.

Fourteenth Day—On the Schenectady Turnpike—Riding between Showers—Talk with Peter Lansing—Reach Schenectady—Lecture at Union Hall under G. A. R. Auspices—Fifteenth and Sixteenth Days—Go over to Troy—Lecture at Harmony Hall—Visit Old Friends—Seventeenth Day—Return to Schenectady—Eighteenth Day—In the Mohawk Valley—Halt at Amsterdam—Reach Fonda—Nineteenth Day—Saint Johnsville—Twentieth Day—Little Falls—Twenty-first Day—Utica—Twenty-second Day—Rome—Twenty-third Day—Chittenango 118

[CHAPTER VII.]

TWO DAYS AT SYRACUSE.

Walks and Talks with the People—Early History—Lake Onondaga—Father Le Moyne—Discovery of Salt Springs—Major Danforth—Joshua Forman—James Geddes—The Erie Canal—Visit of La Fayette—Syracuse University—Lecture at Shakespeare Hall. 132

[CHAPTER VIII.]

SYRACUSE TO ROCHESTER.

Twenty-sixth Day—Grand Army Friends—General Sniper—Captain Auer—Stopped by a Thunder-shower—An Unpleasant Predicament—Twenty-Seventh Day—Jordan, New York—Lake Skaneateles—Twenty-eighth Day—Photographed—Entertained at Port Byron—Montezuma Swamp—Twenty-ninth Day—Newark, New York—Journey Continued Along the New York Central Railway—Another Adventure with Paul—Thirtieth Day—Fairport—Riding in the Cool of the Day 141

[CHAPTER IX.]

FOUR DAYS AT ROCHESTER.

Rainstorm Anticipated—Friends of the Horse—Seven-Sealed Wonder—Newspaper Controversy—Lecture at Corinthian Hall—Colonel J. A. Reynolds—Pioneer History—Colonel Nathaniel Rochester—William Fitzhugh—Charles Carroll—Rapid Growth of City—Sam Patch—Genesee Falls—The Erie Canal—Mount Hope—Lake Ontario—Fruit Nurseries 147

[CHAPTER X.]

ROCHESTER TO BUFFALO.

Thirty-fifth Day—Churchville—Cordiality of the People—Dinner at Chili—Thirty-sixth Day—Bergen Corners—Byron Centre—Rev. Edwin Allen—Thirty-seventh Day—Batavia—Meet a Comrade of the Harris Light Cavalry—Thirty-eighth Day—"Croft's"—More Trouble with Mosquitoes—Amusing Episode—Thirty-ninth Day—Crittenden—Rural Reminiscences—Fortieth Day—Lancaster—Lectured in Methodist Church—Captain Remington 158

[CHAPTER XI.]

THREE DAYS AT BUFFALO.

"Queen City" of the Lakes—Arrival at the Tift House—Lecture at St. James Hall—Major Farquhar—Aboriginal History—The Eries—Iroquois—"Cats"—La Hontan—Lake Erie—Black Rock—War of 1812—The Erie Canal—Buffalo River—Grosvenor Library—Historical Society—Red Jacket—Forest Lawn—Predictions for the Future 171

[CHAPTER XII.]

BUFFALO TO CLEVELAND.

Forty-fourth Day—On the Shore of Lake Erie—Forty-fifth Day—Again on the Shore of Erie—Bracing Air—Enchanting Scenery—Angola—Big Sister Creek—Forty-sixth Day—Angola to Dunkirk—Forty-eighth Day—Dunkirk to Westfield—Fruit and Vegetable Farms—Fredonia—Forty-ninth Day—Westfield to North East—Cordial Reception—Fiftieth Day—North East to Erie—Oliver Hazzard Perry—Fifty-first Day—Erie to Swanville—Fifty-second Day—Talk with Early Settlers—John Joseph Swan—Fifty-third Day—Swanville to Girard—Greeted by Girard Band—Lecture at Town Hall—Fifty-fourth Day—Girard to Ashtabula—Lecture Postponed—Fifty-fifth Day—Ashtabula to Painesville—The Centennial Fourth—Halt at Farm House—Fifty-sixth Day—Reach Willoughby—Guest of the Lloyds 183

[CHAPTER XIII.]

FIVE DAYS AT CLEVELAND.

An Early Start—School Girls—"Do you Like Apples, Mister?"—Mentor—Home of Garfield—Dismount at Euclid—Rumors of the Custer Massacre—Reach the "Forest City"—Met by Comrades of the G. A. R.—Lecture at Garrett Hall—Lake Erie—Cuyahoga River—Early History—Moses Cleveland—Connecticut Land Company—Job Stiles—The Ohio Canal—God of Lake Erie—"Ohio City"—West Side Boat Building—"The Pilot"—Levi Johnson-Visit of Lorenzo Dow—Monument Square—Commodore Perry—Public Buildings—Euclid Avenue—"The Flats"—Standard Oil Company 206

[CHAPTER XIV.]

CLEVELAND TO TOLEDO.

Sixty-first Day—Again in the Saddle—Call on Major Hessler—Donate Proceeds of Lecture to Soldiers' Monument Fund—Letters from General James Barnett and Rev. William Earnshaw—Stop for Night at Black River—Sixty-second Day—Mounted at Nine A.M.—Halted at Vermillion for Dinner—Lake Shore Road—More Mosquitoes—Reach Huron Late at Night—Sixty-third Day—Huron to Sandusky—Traces of the Red Man—Ottawas and Wyandots—Johnson's Island—Lecture in Union Hall—Captain Culver—Sixty-fourth Day—Ride to Castalia—A Remarkable Spring—Sixty-fifth Day—Reach Fremont—Home of President Hayes—Sixty-sixth Day—Reach Elmore, Ohio—Comparison of Hotels 221

[CHAPTER XV.]

FIVE DAYS AT TOLEDO.

Ride from Elmore—Lecture at Lyceum Hall—Forsyth Post, G. A. R.—Doctor J. T. Woods—Concerning General Custer—Pioneer History—Battle of Fallen Timbers—Mad Anthony Wayne—Miami and Wabash Indians—The Toledo War—Unpleasant Complications—Governor Lucas—Strategy of General Vanfleet— Milbourn Wagon Works—Visited by a Detroit Friend 231

[CHAPTER XVI.]

TOLEDO TO DETROIT.

Seventy-second Day—Leave Toledo—Change of Route—Ride to Erie, Michigan—Paul Shows His Mettle—Seventy-third Day—Sunday —Go to Church—Rev. E. P. Willard—Solicitude of Friends— Seventy-fourth Day—Ride to Monroe—Greeted with Music—Hail Columbia—Star-Spangled Banner—Home of Custer—Meet Custer Family—Custer Monument Association—Received at City Hall—Great Enthusiasm—River Rasin—Indian Massacre—General Winchester— Battle of the Thames—Death of Tecumseh—Monroe Monitor—Seventy-seventh Day—Lecture at City Hall—Personal Recollections of Custer—Incidents of His School Life—Seventy-eighth Day—Leave Monroe—Huron River—Traces of the Mound Builders—Rockwood—Seventy-ninth Day—Along the Detroit River—Wyandotte—Ecorse—Eightieth Day—Letter from Judge Wing—Indorsement of Custer Monument Association 243

[CHAPTER XVII.]

FOUR DAYS AT DETROIT.

Leave Ecorse—Met at Fort Wayne—Sad News—Reach Detroit— Met by General Throop and Others—at Russell House—Lecture at St. Andrew's Hall—General Trowbridge—Meet Captain Hampton—Army and Prison Reminiscences—Pioneer History of Detroit— La Motte Cadillac—Miamies and Pottawattomies—Fort Ponchartrain— Plot of Pontiac—Major Gladwyn—Fort Shelby—War of 1812—General Brock and Tecumseh Advance on Detroit—Surrender of General Hull—British Compelled to Evacuate 265

[CHAPTER XVIII.]

DETROIT TO CHICAGO.

Eighty-fifth Day—Leave Detroit Reluctantly—Paul in Good Spirits —Reach Inkster—Eighty-sixth Day—Lowering Clouds—Take Shelter under Trees and in a Woodshed—Meet War Veterans— Ypsilanti—Eighty-seventh Day—Lecture at Union Hall—Incidents of the Late War—Eighty-eighth Day—An Early Start—Ann Arbor —Michigan University—Dinner at Dexter—Eighty-ninth Day—Dinner at Grass Lake—Reach Jackson—Ninetieth Day—Comment of Jackson Citizen—Coal Fields—Grand River—Ninety-first Day—A Circus in Town—Parma—Ninety-second Day—"Wolverines"—Ninety-third Day—Ride to Battle Creek—Lecture at Stuart's Hall—Ninety-fourth Day—Go to Church—Goguac Lake—Ninety-fifth Day—Arrive at Kalamazoo—Sketch of the "Big Village"—Ninety-sixth Day—Return to Albion and Lecture in Opera House—Ninety-seventh Day—Lecture at Wayne Hall, Marshall—Ninety-eighth Day—Calhoun County—Ninety-ninth Day—Letter to Custer Monument Association—One Hundredth Day—Colonel Curtenius—One Hundred and First Day—Paw Paw—One Hundred and Second Day—South Bend, Indiana—Hon. Schuyler Colfax—One Hundred and Third Day—Grand Rapids—Speak in Luce's Hall—One Hundred and Fourth Day—Return to Decatur—One Hundred and Fifth Day—Again in Paw Paw—One Hundred and Sixth Day—Lecture at Niles—One Hundred and Seventh Day—Go to La Porte by Rail—One Hundred and Eighth Day—Return to Michigan City—One Hundred and Ninth Day—Go Back to Decatur, Michigan—One Hundred and Tenth to One Hundred and Twenty-second Day—Dowagiac—Buchanan—Rolling Prairie 279

[CHAPTER XIX.]

THREE DAYS AT CHICAGO.

Register at the Grand Pacific Hotel—Lecture at Farwell Hall—Visit McVicker's Theatre—See John T. Raymond in "Mulberry Sellers"—The Chicago Exposition—Site of City—Origin of Name—Father Marquette—First Dwelling—Death of Marquette—Lake Michigan—Fort Dearborn—First Settlement Destroyed by Indians—Chicago as a Commercial City—The Great Fire—An Unparalleled Conflagration—Rises from her Ashes—Financial Reorganization—Greater than Before—Schools and Colleges—Historical Society—The Palmer House—Spirit of the People—One Hundred and Twenty-sixth Day—Again at Michigan City—Attend a Political Meeting—Hon. Daniel W. Voorhees—"Blue Jeans" Williams—One Hundred and Twenty-eighth Day—Leave Michigan City—Hobart—"Hoosierdum"—One Hundred and Twenty-ninth Day—Weather Much Cooler 333

[CHAPTER XX.]

CHICAGO TO DAVENPORT.

One Hundred and Thirtieth Day—Followed by Prairie Wolves—Reach Joliet, Illinois—Lecture at Werner Hall—One Hundred and Thirty-first Day—Ride on Tow Path of Michigan Canal—Morris—One Hundred and Thirty-second Day—Corn and Hogs—Arrive at Ottawa—One Hundred and Thirty-third Day—Reach La Salle—One Hundred and Thirty-fourth Day—Colonel Stephens—One Hundred and Thirty-fifth Day—Visit Peru—One Hundred and Thirty-sixth Day—Mistaken for a Highwayman—One Hundred and Thirty-seventh Day—Fine Stock Farms—Wyanet—One Hundred and Thirty-eighth Day—Annawan—Commendatory Letter—One Hundred and Thirty-ninth Day—A Woman Farmer—One Hundred and Fortieth Day—Reach Milan, Illinois 354

[CHAPTER XXI.]

FOUR DAYS AT DAVENPORT.

Cross the Mississippi—Lecture at Moore's Hall—Colonel Russell—General Sanders—Early History of the City—Colonel George Davenport—Antoine Le Claire—Griswold College—Rock Island—Fort Armstrong—Rock Island Arsenal—General Rodman—Colonel Flagler—Rock Island City—Sac and Fox Indians—Black Hawk War—Jefferson Davis—Abraham Lincoln—Defeat of Black Hawk—Rock River—Indian Legends 372

[CHAPTER XXII.]

DAVENPORT TO DES MOINES.

One Hundred and Forty-fifth Day—Leave Davenport—Stop over Night at Farm House—One Hundred and Forty-sixth Day—Reach Moscow, Iowa—Rolling Prairies—One Hundred and Forty-seventh Day—Weather Cold and Stormy—Iowa City—One Hundred and Forty-eighth Day—Description of City—One Hundred and Forty-ninth Day—Lectured at Ham's Hall—Hon. G. B. Edmunds—One Hundred and Fiftieth Day—Reach Tiffin—Guests of the Tiffin House—One Hundred and Fifty-first Day—Marengo—One Hundred and Fifty-second Day—Halt for the Night at Brooklyn—One Hundred and Fifty-third Day—Ride to Kellogg—Stop at a School House—Talk with Boys—One Hundred and Fifty-fourth Day—Reach Colfax—One Hundred and Fifty-fifth Day—Arrive at Des Moines—Capital of Iowa—Description of City—Professor Bowen—Meet an Army Comrade 386

[CHAPTER XXIII.]

DES MOINES TO OMAHA.

One Hundred and Fifty-seventh Day—Leave Des Moines with Pleasant Reflections—Reach Adel—Dallas County—Raccoon River—One Hundred and Fifty-eighth Day—Ride through Redfield—Reach Dale City—Talk Politics with Farmers—One Hundred and Fifty-ninth Day—A Night with Coyotes—Re-enforced by a Friendly Dog—One Hundred and Sixtieth Day—Cold Winds from the Northwest—All Day on the Prairies—One Hundred and Sixty-first Day—Halt at Avoca—One Hundred and Sixty-second Day—Riding in the Rain—Reach Neola—One Hundred and Sixty-third Day—Roads in Bad Condition—Ride through Council Bluffs—Arrive at Omaha 401

[CHAPTER XXIV.]

A HALT AT OMAHA.

The Metropolis of Nebraska—First Impressions—Peculiarity of the Streets—Hanscom Park—Poor House Farm—Prospect Cemetery—Douglas County Fair Grounds—Omaha Driving Park—Fort Omaha—Creighton College—Father Marquette—The Mormons—"Winter Quarters"—Lone Tree Ferry—Nebraska Ferry Company—Old State House—First Territorial Legislature—Governor Cummings—Omaha in the Civil War—Rapid Development of the "Gate City" 409

[CHAPTER XXV.]

OMAHA TO CHEYENNE.

Leave Paul in Omaha—Purchase a Mustang—Use Mexican Saddle—Over the Great Plains—Surface of Nebraska—Extensive Beds of Peat—Salt Basins—The Platte River—High Winds—Dry Climate—Fertile Soil—Lincoln—Nebraska City—Fremont—Grand Island—Plum Creek—McPherson—Sheep Raising—Elk Horn River—In Wyoming Territory—Reach Cheyenne—Description of Wyoming "Magic City"—Vigilance Committee—Rocky Mountains—Laramie Plains—Union Pacific Railroad 420

[CHAPTER XXVI.]

CAPTURED BY INDIANS.

Leave Cheyenne—Arrange to Journey with Herders—Additional Notes on Territory—Yellowstone National Park—Sherman—Skull Rocks—Laramie Plains—Encounter Indians—Friendly Signals—Surrounded by Arrapahoes—One Indian Killed—Taken Prisoners—Carried toward Deadwood—Indians Propose to Kill their Captives—Herder Tortured at the Stake—Move toward Black Hills—Escape from Guards—Pursued by the Arrapahoes—Take Refuge in a Gulch—Reach a Cattle Ranch—Secure a Mustang and Continue Journey 435

[CHAPTER XXVII.]

AMONG THE MORMONS.

Ride Across Utah—Chief Occupation of the People—Description of Territory—Great Salt Lake—Mormon Settlements—Brigham Young—Peculiar Views of the Latter Day Saints—"Celestial Marriages"—Joseph Smith, the Founder of Mormonism—The Book of Mormon—City of Ogden—Pioneer History—Peter Skeen Ogden—Weber and Ogden Rivers—Heber C. Kimball—Echo Canyon—Enterprise of the Mormons—Rapid Development of the Territory 446

[CHAPTER XXVIII.]

OVER THE SIERRAS.

The Word Sierra—At Kelton, Utah—Ride to Terrace—Wells, Nevada—The Sierra Nevada—Lake Tahoe—Silver Mines—The Comstock Lode—Stock Raising—Camp Halleck—Humboldt River—Mineral Springs—Reach Palisade—Reese River Mountain—Golconda—Winnemucca—Lovelocks—Wadsworth—Cross Truckee River—In California 458

[CHAPTER XXIX.]

ALONG THE SACRAMENTO.

Colfax—Auburn—Summit—Reach Sacramento—California Boundaries—Pacific Ocean—Coast Range Mountains—The Sacramento Valley—Inhabitants of California—John A. Sutter—Sutter's Fort—A Saw-mill—James Wilson Marshall—Discovery of Gold—"Boys, I believe I have found a Gold Mine"—The Secret Out—First Days of Sacramento—A "City of Tents"—Capital of California 465

[CHAPTER XXX.]

SAN FRANCISCO AND END OF JOURNEY.

Metropolis of the Pacific Coast—Largest Gold Fields in the World—The Jesuits—Captain Sutter—Argonauts of "49"—Great Excitement—Discovery of Upper California—Sir Francis Drake—John P. Lease—The Founding of San Francisco—The "Golden Age"—Story of Kit Carson—The Golden Gate—San Francisco Deserted—The Cholera Plague—California Admitted to the Union—Crandall's Stage—Wonderful Development of San Francisco—United States Mint—Handsome Buildings—Trade with China, Japan, India and Australia—Go Out to the Cliff House—Ride into the Pacific—End of Journey 476

ILLUSTRATIONS.

PAGE
Wayside Notes[Frontispiece]
Views in Boston[33]
Scenes in Boston[39]
Boston and Environs[49]
Commonwealth Avenue, Boston[57]
Leaving the Revere House, Boston[71]
Riding Through Cambridge[77]
View in Worcester, Mass.[81]
A New England Paper Mill[85]
Old Toll-Bridge at Springfield[91]
A Massachusetts Mill Stream[95]
The Springfield Armory[99]
A Mill in the Berkshire Hills[103]
A Hamlet in Berkshire Hills[107]
Suburb of Pittsfield[111]
A Scene in the Berkshire Hills[115]
State Street and Capitol, Albany, N. Y.[125]
River Street, Troy, N. Y.[129]
View in Schenectady, N. Y.[133]
View in Mohawk Valley[143]
A Mill Stream in Mohawk Valley[139]
A Flourishing Farm[157]
An Old Landmark[161]
The Road to Albany[121]
View of Rochester[171]
The District School-House[177]
Rural Scene in Central New York[183]
The Road to Buffalo[189]
Juvenile Picnic[205]
A Cottage on the Hillside[211]
Haying in Northern Ohio[221]
Just Out of Cleveland[225]
On the Shore of Lake Erie[235]
Sunday at the Farm[241]
A Home in the Woods[245]
Country Store and Post Office[255]
An Ohio Farm[265]
Outskirts of a City[279]
A Summer Afternoon[303]
The Country Peddler[313]
A Mill in the Forest[321]
No Rooms To Let[335]
Rural Scene in Michigan[341]
Spinning Yarns by a Tavern Fire[345]
A Hoosier Cabin[355]
A Circus in Town[359]
A Country Road in Illinois[381]
An Illinois Home[385]
A Happy Family[395]
An Illinois Village[399]
The Road to the Church[404]
An Iowa Village[419]
On the Way to Mill[427]
A Night Among the Coyotes[431]
High School, Omaha, Neb.[441]
Omaha, Neb., in 1876[437]
Sport on the Plains[449]
Pawnee Indians, Neb.[453]
North Platte, Neb.[457]
Plum Creek, Neb.[463]
Cattle Ranch in Nebraska[467]
A Mountain Village[471]
Captured by the Indians[477]
Deciding the Fate of the Captives[481]
Escape from the Arrapahoes[487]
An Indian Encampment, Wyoming[495]
Sheep Ranch in Wyoming[503]
Mining Camp in Nevada[507]
A Rocky Mountain River[513]
A Lake in the Sierra Nevadas[517]
A Cascade by the Roadside[525]
View in Woodward's Garden, San Francisco[533]
The Pacific Ocean, End of Journey[541]