GENERAL NOTES.
THE PATENT ADJUSTABLE CABINET BATH.
The Bath.—The bath, without which no house is nowadays regarded as complete, should be supplied in all cottages, however small. At Bournville, wherever there is no bathroom, the bath is placed in the kitchen, this room being considered the most suitable: hot water is here at hand, and, as there is usually a fire in winter, it is both more convenient and comfortable than in one of the bedrooms, where the space can be ill-spared, especially where there are children. Even in the kitchens of these small cottages there is necessarily none too much space, and various devices have been employed to prevent the bath being an inconvenience when not in use. One way of disposing of it is to sink it into the floor near the hearth, the boarded covering serving as a standing or draining board when the bath is in use. Another way, where there is a little more room to spare, is to fix it on the usual floor level, and make its cover serve as a settle or table. The introduction of the Patent Adjustable Cabinet Bath, however, is better than either of these methods. In this arrangement the bath is hinged at the bottom of one end in order that it may be easily lowered from and raised back into the cabinet, where in its vertical position it is no inconvenience when not in use. In the hinge a waste pipe is introduced. With this bath not only is there a gain of space, but the bath may be used with a saving of time and labour, and without fear of deluging the floor. Above the cupboard in which the bath is kept are convenient shelves. The cost of the bath and cabinet is about £3 5s. The illustration on the last page shows a bath of this kind fitted in one of the Bournville cottages.
CORNES’ PATENT BATH.
Another patent bath used at Bournville in cottages of larger size but not sufficiently large to admit of a bathroom is Cornes’ Combined Scullery-Bath-Range and Boiler. The patent utilises to the fullest extent the heat of the kitchen, so that, in addition to the economy of space, there is a further economy of fuel to the householder. The heating and cooking range forms a great part of the division between the kitchen and scullery-bathroom, the flue being coursed over the head of the bath. In the centre of the range is the grate, with an oven on one side and on the other a twelve-gallon boiler, in which water is kept hot for domestic purposes. Boiling water can be obtained by raking down live fuel into a small secondary grate under the boiler through a small hole made for the purpose. If desired, clothes can be boiled in the boiler and access to it from the scullery may be gained by opening a curved door. Owing to its open construction there is no risk of explosion. Further developments have been made in the way of providing a folding door in front of the range, which will shut off the boiler from the kitchen when necessary. The scullery-bathroom, which contains about 36 superficial feet, is fitted with a full-sized iron enamelled bath, supplied with hot water through a pipe from the range boiler and with cold water from the cistern, or through a shower-bath sprinkler fixed overhead, so that this latter luxury can be enjoyed by simply turning the tap. The introduction of White’s Patent Steam Exhaust effectually prevents the steam from permeating the other rooms of the house. An illustration is here given showing Cornes’ patent fitted up.
The Ingle Nook.—Like many old-time features which have been revived during the last few years, the ingle nook has perhaps been a little overdone. The ingle is intended to serve as a cosy retreat in a spacious room, and it should not be introduced in a room the size of which is insufficient to warrant its existence. On this account it is usually undesirable to provide ingle nooks in cottages, except in those with the large living-rooms. Comfort should always be the object in view in the construction of the ingle, but in many modern examples this is sacrificed to over elaboration and that straining for effect which shows that it was designed for ornament and not for use. No doubt an effect is sometimes gained, but the usefulness of the ingle is so far sacrificed that not infrequently one of most inviting appearance will be found to possess inadequate seating accommodation even for a single person.
ELEVATION
PLAN
SMALL COTTAGE INGLE.
The ingle, to be comfortable and useful, should not be less than 10 ft. 6 ins. in width by 4 ft. 6 ins. in depth. If it is smaller lengthways the heat from the fire will be too great, while if less deep there will be insufficient accommodation at the sides for two persons without projecting the seats into the room, which can only be satisfactorily done, perhaps, when the side of the ingle is in line with that of the room. A reasonable height is 6 ft. 6 ins. A pleasing way of treating a cottage ingle is to introduce a step up of about 3 ins., with an oak curb, and to tile or quarry the whole recess, as illustrated by the accompanying drawing. This ingle, which is provided in the pair of cottages with the large living-rooms dealt with earlier (Plate [xx.]), is constructed as follows:-¾ in. match-boarding is nailed to studding, which has stout angle-posts to support the beam above; along the side of the latter a 7-in. by 1-in. shelf is carried by small wooden brackets; and the wood seats are of 1¼ ins. in thickness by 1 ft. 4 ins. from back to front, at a height of 1 ft. 3 ins. or less from the floor. The introduction of the ingle here is advantageous because some privacy is thus afforded in a room which is entered directly from the road. The match-boarding in this case is continued, and forms a framework for the tile-surround of the grate, giving an appearance of unity to the nook, while the simplicity of the material is pleasing and restful. The insertion of a mantelpiece different in character should be avoided. Some interest may be given to the centre of the fireplace by inlaying a little ebony in simple forms.
For drawing-rooms of larger houses the back of the nook might be panelled, the seat upholstered, and the panels filled in with tapestry. White wood looks well, and the fireplace might be built up with glazed brickettes. The ways of treating the more expensive ingles are so numerous, however, that it would be of little use making definite suggestions.
The ingle nook of one of the larger cottages is illustrated on Plate [li.]
Chimneys.—The economy of grouping chimneys, and the desirability of carrying them to the highest point of the roof to avoid down-draughts, has already been mentioned. Generally speaking, for cottages, the simpler the chimneys are the better, and they should all be of hard burnt bricks, and the top courses built in cement. Diagonal chimneys are pleasing, but expensive, and on an estate should only be used occasionally. The Dutch chimneys, built up with corners of brick and covered with stone slabs or 12-in. drain pipes, as frequently seen in Holland and Belgium, are picturesque (see Plate [xxii.]), but care has to be exercised in their construction. Though they are often regarded as being liable to smoke, it may be pointed out that in many cases their employment is the only remedy for a smoky flue. Outside chimneys, it will be borne in mind, are always expensive. Chimney pots do not improve the appearance, but sometimes they are a necessity. In these cases the simple or plain tall-boys are recommended, and the colour—whether of soft red or buff—should be chosen to suit the design and colouring of the cottage. As a variation of these there are the beehive pots, the main idea of which is to keep down the height.
Windows.—The casement window is cheaper than the sash window, and if beauty of effect is also to be considered its adoption is further desirable. Its simplicity and homeliness of appearance render it extremely fitting for the cottage. The old difficulty of cleaning may now be obviated by a very simple device introduced at Bournville, that of causing the window to open upon a pivot in the centre, inwardly as well as outwardly, which admits of the outside of the fixed pane being easily reached by the hand.
The sash window, while objectionable in the form frequently used, may yet be made suitable for cottages; but it should be divided, and the proportions very carefully studied, say 9-in. by 11-in. panes, and the bars not less than 1 in. in thickness. It should be brought forward, showing the full width of the boxing. The sash window, however, necessitates an additional height to rooms.
Bricks.—As regards bricks, it is well as far as possible to avoid those which are mechanically made (the pressed stock-brick) and to use the hand-made bricks from local yards. The brindled Staffordshire bricks are largely used at Bournville; they are very suitable for cottage building where the position is not too exposed. A pleasing variety of colour is introduced at a low cost, the tint being a bright cherry red blended with blue and purple, the blue being quite different from the dead blue-black of the vitreous brick. For inside work the common red wire-cuts are suitable.
It is a mistake to suppose that a good effect cannot be obtained by the use of the cheaper makes of bricks, a remark which also applies in the case of the London stock-bricks, so long as they are not uniformly selected; a good effect may be gained, for instance, by using a few of the darker ones indiscriminately with the cream-coloured ones. The splash of dark colour caused by the black ones coming together is by no means undesirable. A good example of an effective use of these bricks is to be seen at Brewer’s Estate, London.
Roof Covering.—The materials to be employed in roofing depend upon the style of cottage, and also upon the locality. The Bangor slates are cheap, and may be an excellent covering as regards durability; but unfortunately, in the class of cottages here dealt with, it is rarely possible to get so good an effect with them as with other kinds. They may be used, however, in the whitewashed cottage, so long as the smaller sizes are selected. Hand-made roofing tiles, and thick Welsh green and rustic Precelly slates may be recommended, as also the Peake’s & Hartshill hand-made tiles.
Pantiles are cheap, but should only be employed on unbroken roofs having few valleys, where it is less difficult to keep out the wet. The roof should be steep, the angle in no case being less than 45 degrees. Before covering, care should be taken to ascertain whether they are of good manufacture, and whether they are porous or not. There are sometimes pantiles of an indifferent quality on the market; and, if this precaution is not taken, a roof may have to be stripped and re-tiled. Where they have been used and have afterwards been found to be bad they may be tarred, as are wood coverings in Norway and Sweden. It is always essential that the services of a practised layer of pantiles should be secured.
Gables should have damp courses under the coping to shield them from frost and wet.
Roof ridging should have careful attention, and it is wiser to suppress rather than to sharpen, the better to obtain that rustic appearance suitable to a cottage. Many fantastic ridges, with vulgar finials, are employed in the building of small suburban villas, of a more or less sharp-pointed character, and of a depth out of proportion to the roof, which gives an unpleasant harshness to the general appearance. With the principle in view that the sky-line should be softened as much as possible, the brindled hand-made half-rounds should be used. With green slates, ridges of blue are the most suitable, as the colours harmonise. Experience will probably show that the red and buff ridges will not stand the weather so well as other kinds.
Wall Spaces: Rough-cast—Whitewash—Half-timber.—However strong may be the temptation to introduce a variety of colour upon exteriors, it is advisable with cottages of the class dealt with to refrain from so doing. It is best to get the colour in masses, treated broadly—say, each house, as far as wall surfaces and roof are concerned, of one colour; for where the cottages stand close together, or even where they are semi-detached, sufficient contrast or relief is afforded by contiguous cottages treated differently, and in the case of a village a much better general effect is thus gained. On the other hand a good effect may be gained by giving a block of houses one tone throughout, matching the colour of the roof. The result is quiet and unobtrusive, and one which is very desirable in the cottage, where the features are necessarily brought close together. The tarred plinth, however, should always be used with rough-cast.
Half-timber should be used sparingly. While the bye-laws insist on a 9-in. wall being at the back, an unwarranted present and future expense is incurred by its use; and an effect equally as good, moreover, may be obtained with rough-cast, weather boarding, or whitewash. Half-timber one lives to regret, for the weather tells sadly upon it, and it demands constant repair.
A small cottage with an equal distribution of equal-sized windows is far from desirable. In a pair of cottages where there are four equal rooms facing the road, four equal windows would at first sight seem unavoidable, although such an arrangement would be fatal to the elevation. It is better to put a secondary light to the rooms at the extremities, getting additional light from the side, and thus by contrast giving greater importance to the larger windows in the centre, or even to omit the smaller windows, if adequate light can be obtained without them. The blank space might then be used for the training up of climbing plants. A certain number of windows is indispensable in a cottage, but, without stinting light, the aim should rather be to repress any superfluity. By the means suggested the view from the interior is sometimes agreeably varied.
Other features are dealt with in the descriptions of the various cottages to which they have particular reference.