PYRAMIDS
This game is played with one white and fifteen red balls, the latter being set up in the form of a triangle or pyramid, with the apex-ball nearest to the baulk-line and on the pyramid spot. As a rule, only two players take part in a game, and the order of playing is decided by lot. The first stroke is played from the Ｄ, as are all subsequent strokes if the white ball has gone into a pocket or has been forced off the table. The object of the game is to hole the red balls with the white, each ball so holed counting as one; but, should the striker make a losing hazard (notwithstanding that he holes a red ball with the same stroke), or force a red ball or his own off the table, or miss altogether, he loses a ball—i.e. one is deducted from his score and a ball put up on the table. Any ball or balls he may have taken by such a stroke are put up as well. If the striker’s score is love, and he incurs this penalty, he is said to owe one (or more, as the case may be), and no ball can be put up till he has made a winning hazard; if he owes more than one, a ball is restored for each hazard he makes, until he has paid off his debts. After a miss the next player plays from where the white ball stops; but if the latter is pocketed or forced off the table he plays from the Ｄ at any ball he chooses, whether in baulk or not. When only two balls—the white and one red—are left on the table, the game becomes single pool; after white has played on red, red plays on white, and so on till one of the two is holed.
These are the salient points of the game; other details may be gleaned from the printed rules which should be in every billiard-room. Points are scored (see Rules 4 and 5)[[20]] by giving balls or owing balls, or both. When a player gives one or more balls, they are scored to his opponent before the game begins, and are removed from the table. If he owes one or more, the first time a winning hazard is made the ball is put up on the table, and nothing is added to the striker’s score till all the balls he owes have been put up. When the odds are combined, each ball given is removed, and no hazard counts till all debts are paid; e.g. if he gives one and owes two, one ball is removed (see Rule 4), his opponent scores one, and the giver of odds cannot score till he has holed two balls, each of which has to be put back on the table (see Rule 18).
The rules for foul strokes are the same as at billiards, but if a player wilfully touch a moving ball, he loses the game;[[21]] to do so accidentally makes that stroke foul (see also Rule 23).
I once saw a pretty commentary on Rule 18, which directs that a ball which has to be put up be placed on the pyramid spot. The player, who owed four, made a hazard and got exact position behind the pyramid spot in a line with the corner pocket, and, screwing back each time, holed each ball as it was put up.
Balls forced off the table are put up again, but the striker’s break is at an end unless he also holes a ball (see Rules 18 and 19).
Nothing can be said on the question of handicapping players. Of course their relative skill at billiards affords no criterion of their relative powers at pyramids. A few games will best decide the question; but it may be remarked that to give a ball is a far higher handicap than to owe a ball, as the adversary starts with a point to the good, and there are only fourteen coloured balls on the table; whereas the player who owes a ball only forfeits the first hazard he makes.
Before the game commences the first step is to set up the balls properly. In theory each ball should touch its immediate neighbours, but in practice this is of course impossible. They should, however, be collected in the triangle, and then rolled smartly up and down parallel to the sides of the table, the apex-ball never going beyond the pyramid spot. After this has been done two or three times the motion should be sharply stopped when the apex-ball is on the spot, and the pyramid will then be fairly correct. There are three ways of playing the first stroke, two of them unsound. The first wrong way is to smash the pyramid by a vicious hit from baulk, for which Captain Crawley, in ‘The Billiard Book,’ recommends a mysterious ‘under-handed stroke;’ but in whatever way the stroke is played it is unsound, as there are only two pockets behind the pyramid into which to drive a ball. The second wrong method is to play slowly up the table with a little side, missing the pyramid on the upward journey, and just dropping on to it from the top cushion. Old-fashioned players are fond of this opening, but it is not sound, as the adversary can easily get safe, or, if he likes, he can smash with four pockets open to him. Whether he be wise to do so is another question; with a weak adversary, to whom he is giving odds, it may be advisable. I have seen no less than five balls disappear after such a stroke; but if a winning hazard is not made, the break of course goes to the other side: it is a matter of speculation, the chances being naturally in favour of the stronger player. At no time should a smash be tried except when four pockets are open—i.e. from the top of the table; a stab or screw back should be used, so as to avoid as far as possible the mob of flying balls, which may kiss the white into a pocket. The third and orthodox opening is to play at the end ball of the row next the base of the pyramid with strength sufficient to leave the white ball as near to the bottom cushion as possible. If the pyramid is properly set up, the opponent has no easy stroke left, though occasionally a ball is malignant enough to detach itself and come down the table. This is generally the result of either careless setting up or of striking too hard, but if this opening stroke is properly played, the second player will have nothing better to play for than a more or less difficult stroke for safety, and so the game will proceed till the pyramid is gradually shaken and finally broken up; but in playing for safety it is sometimes advisable to disturb the pyramid, if possible, it being difficult for one’s opponent to steer a safe course when there are rocks ahead in the shape of balls.
It is often safe to leave the white ball near the pyramid, provided that it has not been greatly disturbed; for, if the players are equal, neither should risk a smash, for it is, after all, even betting which player profits. The best safety of all is to leave the adversary far away from a ball and as near to a cushion as possible; but if he can retaliate in kind, not much good will have been done. Watch the score, and play to the score. The leader should play a cautious rather than a dashing game, as a losing hazard not only diminishes his score by a point, but also gives his adversary the advantage of playing from baulk with an extra ball on the table. ‘When in doubt play for safety,’ is a golden rule, but a doubtful hazard may often be tried when one can get safety as well. Beginners should be cautioned to watch carefully for foul strokes, especially when the rest or spider is being used. A knowledge of the spot stroke and its variations is invaluable, involving, as this stroke does, every form of screw, stab, and following stroke; while the stop stroke is also most useful—i.e. a sort of stab that leaves the white ball on the place just vacated by the red.
When a player is familiar with ordinary winning hazards, and can make them with some facility, he should devote himself to the making of breaks—i.e. a series of hazards. Diagrams I. and II. may serve as examples, showing how position should be got so that one hazard may lead on to another.
Diagram I.
Nor should the famous dictum about the spot stroke be forgotten—viz. that the first and most important point is to make sure of putting in the red. Supposing, then, that the balls are left as in Diagram I., the problem is to take them all in a break, which may be done as follows, the figures representing the successive positions of the white ball:—From position 1 there is an easy hazard, and position 2 may be easily gained. The same remarks apply to the next stroke, but from 3 a ‘run through’ with right-hand side is required so as to get to 4. Here there is the option of dropping ball X quietly into the middle pocket, leaving an easy shot on Y, or of stabbing Y and getting position 5. If the latter stroke is successfully played, the rule of ‘never play for a middle pocket at single pool’ should decide the striker to drive X gently down to the left-hand bottom pocket, leaving his ball safe under the side cushion.
The break shown in Diagram II. is by no means so easy. It may be played as follows:—From position 1 a gentle stab, screwing back a little, should be played; from 2 is required a semi-follow with left-hand side. For the third stroke strong right-hand side is used, the top cushion being utilised or not according to fancy; and the fourth also requires some right-hand side, but the proper play is to try to get such position as will leave a shot for a corner and not a middle pocket. It may also be noted that by playing on ball Y first there will be but a poor chance of getting ball X in the course of the break, as ball Z will clearly be the next one to play at. These two breaks are only suggested for useful practice, and to show the beginner some of the devices necessary for success.
Diagram II.
I will now discuss certain strokes of frequent occurrence, for which special hints are necessary, plants and doubles being among the most important. They have been to some extent dealt with already,[[22]] but are more common at winning-hazard games than at billiards, and consequently not only do they demand careful attention, but also verification by practice, the relative positions of the balls being frequently altered, and the varieties in the results noted and studied. Another very important class of strokes occurs when the object ball is under the cushion, a common situation in all games of pool. Diagram III. shows two examples, though stroke B is really only a modification of stroke A; still, it deserves separate consideration, as the hazard is very difficult, and the position of the striker’s ball after the stroke has been played is most important. Example A may be considered typical; the player’s ball is on the centre of the Ｄ and the object ball half way up cushion 2. Play slowly, about No. 1 strength, so as to hit ball and cushion simultaneously. Ball 2 will drop into the pocket, and ball 1 will travel towards the spot. If position is desired to the right of the spot, a little left-hand side should be used, and it even seems to make the hazard easier; a sharper stroke with right-hand side will bring ball 1 towards the middle of the table. This stroke should be practised with ball 2 at such positions as P, Q, R, and S, and the resting place of ball 1 should be carefully observed. It is clearly not a good stroke for single pool, as the balls are left too close together. Stroke B is not at all easy, but it is worth playing for, as it cannot leave much. Ball 2 must be cut very finely—in fact, play just not to miss it. If it is missed on the upward journey, left-hand side, which is almost essential to the stroke, will cause ball 2 to be hit from the cushion, X and Y show the direction of ball 1 according as no side or left-hand side is used.
There are no strokes more common and none which require more care than those in which the object ball is close to a cushion, nearly at right angles to the path of ball 1 and a long distance from it. The paths of both seem, from the mere proximity of the cushion, to be regulated by an entirely new code of dynamic laws, the fact being that the whole conditions of the case are not correctly realised. It is here that the inestimable qualities of side, as an agent productive of pace, are called in to assist; for by playing with direct side and cutting ball 2 very fine, its course will be restricted, and the side will cause ball 1 to travel freely down the table; but here, as in all things, an ounce of practice is worth a ton of theory, and more can be learned by an hour’s practice than a week’s reading.
Diagram III.
To the serious student the ‘R.-W. Billiard Diagram Notebook’[[23]] is recommended, in order that the results of practice and observation may be recorded, for, as Captain Cuttle might have said, ‘These things, when found, should be made a note of.’
Diagram IV. shows a useful double in stroke A, ball 2 being some distance below the middle pocket, and two or three inches from the cushion. Ball 1 should be placed approximately as shown in the diagram; but practice and experience can alone show the exact place, depending as it does on the position of ball 2. To make the double, play full on ball 2. Ball 1 can be made to reach the top of the table, if desired, by the use of strong left-hand side and follow. For single pool a stab is of course the right stroke. If the top pocket is blocked, or if for any other reason (e.g. for the sake of position) this stroke is undesirable, there is a good chance of a double as shown in stroke B, ball 2 being struck half-ball, and ball 1 following approximately the lines terminating in X. For the sake of practice the position of ball 2 should be shifted towards the pocket, and also further down the table. The further it lies from baulk, the finer must be the cut, and the harder the stroke. The position of ball 1 should be carefully noted each time, and also the point at which the object ball having been gradually moved down the table, a kiss occurs and prevents the double into the middle pocket.
Diagram IV.
The stroke shown in Diagram V. is of common occurrence in single pool, and may appropriately be here explained, as every game of pyramids eventually becomes one of single pool. The type of stroke is so important that it should be practised from various positions—first without side, and then with side both right and left, the ultimate position of the striker’s ball being the main feature of the stroke. The direct hazard is of course on, but only special circumstances would justify any but a first-rate hazard striker in trying for it. In the diagram P Z shows the course of ball 1 when no side is used, Q Y when played with strong left-hand side, and R X when strong right-hand side is employed. Strength is most important, and observation alone will show when a kiss occurs as the balls cross each other’s track; but the chances of this are much diminished when reverse side (in this case left side) is used. If ball 2 is near the cushion, a sharp stroke is necessary, but the double shown in stroke A, Diagram VI., is the better game. All the doubles shown in this diagram are useful, especially for single pool. Stroke A is played with a stab, stroke B with follow, so as to leave ball 1 under the top cushion. Stroke C also requires a stab, strength being judged so as to leave ball 2 close to the pocket, if it is not holed. In both B and C ball 2 might possibly be cut in, but the double is, for pool at least, the safer stroke.
The question of plants has been already alluded to in Chapter VII., which should be carefully studied, as such shots are infinitely more common with the fifteen-pyramid balls than at billiards. In the plant, pure and simple, the balls are touching or practically touching; but if what may be called the second object ball is fairly near to the pocket, a plant is often worth trying, though some caution is necessary, as a leave is very likely to result if the stroke fails. The principle may be described as playing a ball on to a certain point in a third ball, this point being on the line leading to the centre of the pocket. Thus, by means of ball 2, ball 3 may be holed, though, with a view to a possible leave for the adversary, the stroke is too risky to be recommended for general use.
Diagram V.
Fig. 1
Fig. 2
It should be noticed that a pocket is considerably enlarged so to speak, when there is a ball in the position shown by fig. 2, as from almost anywhere to the right of the diagonal drawn through that pocket a ball may be holed off ball 3, either directly or off cushion 2, or it may be put in without touching ball 3, which will then be left for the next stroke.
Fig. 3
Fig. 3 shows a neat stroke. Balls 2 and 3 are touching. The line passing through their centres is at right angles to the line drawn from ball 2 to the centre of the pocket. Then from any point below P Q, and even from some distance above it, a winning hazard on ball 2 is with ordinary care a certainty.
In fig. 4 a useful but rare stroke is shown. The two balls are touching or nearly touching, but are not aligned on the pocket. By playing a push shot, quite quietly, the point of the cue, never quitting ball 1, gradually directs ball 2 towards the pocket. The cue should be directed as much above P as the pocket is below it. A stroke with left-hand side will have the same effect, but to enter into reasons would be to open up the whole question of push strokes.
Diagram VI.
Fig. 4
In Diagram VII. stroke A suggests a method of making a winning hazard which, though in itself easy, may be dangerous when the player is in a cramped position. Ball 2 is close to the pocket, and ball 1 is in a straight line with it, but so hampered by the cushion that a stab shot is out of the question. The hazard may easily be made by playing off cushion 6, as shown, and ball 1 may be left in the direction of the spot. This type of stroke, by the way, is capable of much development and should be studied. The strokes marked B1, B2, and B3 suggest three methods of play in case ball 1 should be angled, ball 2 being in the jaws of the middle pocket. Fortunately such an occurrence is rare; but I once saw it happen at pool, and the player—a very good one—played the stroke marked B2 and brought it off. Experiment gives the best results with B1 and the worst with B3; but which of the three should be essayed depends on the exact position of ball 2 and the chances of making a loser. The point Q is about six inches below the baulk-line, but a few trials will show the exact place. B2 is of the nature of a massé, and even if ball 1 strikes the cushion above the middle pocket, there is still a chance of success. Should ball 1 be angled for ball 2, the latter being in a corner pocket, the massé stroke is the only chance; in fact, there is a very old trick stroke, made when balls 1 and 3 are in the jaws of the corner pockets and ball 2 in the jaws of the middle, all on the same side; by a similar species of massé ball 1 curves round and outside ball 2 and holes ball 3.
Diagram VII.
A propos of stroke A, there is a useful method of getting position at the top of the table, if ball 1 can be struck freely. If plenty of follow is used, and ball 2 is struck nearly full, the striker’s ball will rebound towards the middle of the table and then spring forward towards the top cushion again. The stroke requires much freedom, and the explanation of it is to be found in Chapter VI., On Rotation.
Stroke C may be found useful at some time or another. The object ball is resting against the upper jaw of the middle pocket, in such a way that it is impossible to cut it in from baulk; but with a kiss the stroke is absurdly easy. By playing from the end of the Ｄ with No. 1 strength, and hitting the red about three-quarters right, the kiss will send it into the pocket and leave ball 1 in the middle of the table.
The question of occasionally giving a miss may deserve a word, but, as a matter of fact, the opportunities of playing such a stroke with profit are very rare. To begin with, the penalty is a very heavy one, and can only be afforded by a player who has a most commanding lead and whose adversary cannot dare to follow suit. With a score of, say, nine to one, when the leading player has the game in hand, he may, if he please, sacrifice a ball in the hopes of getting a break afterwards; but when the scores are nearly equal, it is clear that if it is worth A.’s while to give a miss, B. can hardly do better than follow his example.
The highest possible break at pyramids (unless the striker owes one or more balls) is, of course, fifteen; this number has frequently been taken by fine players, but the chances of finding a full complement of balls on the table and of being in a position to take advantage of the opening are very small, always presupposing that the ability to clear the table exists. In the quickest game I ever played, my adversary managed to take a ball after the opening stroke, and, gradually breaking up the pyramid, secured ten, and the last five fell to me in the next turn, so that we had but three innings between us, one of them being the break. A capital performance was once done at Cambridge by an undergraduate whose adversary broke and apparently left everything safe; however, eight balls disappeared, nearly all very difficult strokes, in which the player had to consider safety as well as the hazard. In his next turn he cleared the table by a series of similar shots, all, or nearly all, so difficult that once more safety was his main object. This was a very great feat; but the reader need hardly be reminded that at pyramids, as at billiards, the art to be cultivated is the art of leaving a series of easy strokes. I once saw a man who had just made a break of 30 or 40 at billiards turn round and say, ‘What a good break! There wasn’t a single easy stroke in it!’ The real billiard-player would have described it as a series of well-made strokes, but as a break, never.