RAPIDS OF THE ST. LAWRENCE
Will soon add zest to the journey. There are several courses of these rapids, those we are now entering being the Gallopes, which, compared with some of the others, are of but little interest, except as a foretaste of what is to come. Next we enter and pass the Rapid de Plau, and the excitement deepens as the foaming, seething waters just ahead proclaim the approach to the famous Long Sault (pronounced Soo). This is the longest of the series, being a continuous descent for nine miles, with the current running at a speed of twenty miles an hour. A canal, eleven miles in length, extends around this rapid, with seven locks, facilitating the descent of such crafts as are unable to cope with the rapids, and also permitting the return of the steamers. Four similar canals are to be met at various places along the river.
At Dickenson’s Landing, just before entering the Long Sault, the passengers are transferred to the “Prince Arthur,” a boat constructed expressly for “shooting the rapids,” which steams out from the landing, with its bow headed toward the angry waters, as if in defiance of their power. The increasing speed, and especially the perceptible descent, soon awaken the interest of the dullest among the passengers, and as the boat lurches to the right or left (or, in nautical phrase, to the starboard, or port), to escape destruction from some ledge which the trusty pilot knows how to avoid, the excitement deepens and increases, and the half hour required for the passage of the Long Sault is crowded full of alternating delight, fear and exhilaration, quickening the pulse and giving zest to the journey, not to be appreciated except by those who experience it.
At the foot of this Rapid, the placid waters of Lake St. Francis are entered, and the contrast between the tranquil surroundings and the tumult and excitement just passed through brings a grateful sense of relief, and the lovely scenery among which the boat now glides for twenty-five miles, is all the more keenly appreciated. The call to dinner, which is served during the passage of this lake, is a welcome one, and the passengers are now ready to descend to the level of things material and substantial, which they find spread in abundance in the dining saloon.
“DOWN” VS. “UP”—RAPIDS AND CANAL.
After dinner, and a quiet stroll on deck, a little more experience with rapids is in order. Passing Coteau du Lac, we enter the Coteau Rapids, descending quickly to the Cedars, Split Rock and Cascade Rapids. In passing the Cedars, a peculiar sensation is experienced, as the boat appears to settle down occasionally with great suddenness, as though about to be submerged. This is supposed to be owing to a strong undercurrent which exerts this influence on the boat as she passes from one ledge of rock to another, although they are at a safe
distance below her keel. The passage of the Split Rock Rapids seems dangerous, as indeed it would be were the pilot to forget for a moment the grave responsibility of his trust, and fail to swerve the boat at just the right moment to avoid some rock or ledge that threatens destruction to the craft.
Occasionally a raft may be seen in conflict with the rushing waters, apparently at the mercy of the current. The venturesome lumbermen generally manage, however, to “put in an oar” to good advantage in steering clear of the rocks, although not always successful in guiding their frail crafts into quiet waters. An occasional wreck is the result of these ventures, as the scattering logs in the channel attest.
RAFTS IN THE RAPIDS.
The Cascades are so called from their resemblance to a series of short, leaping falls. Passing the Cascades, we enter upon another broad expanse of water, the river here widening into Lake St. Louis, receiving also the waters of the Ottawa River. This lake is twelve miles long by about six in breadth, and the ride across its quiet waters just precedes the culminating excitement of the trip,—the daring passage of the