History of the settlement of Upper Canada (Ontario,) / with special reference to the Bay Quinté

by William Canniff

CHAPTER LI.

Contents—​Marysburgh—​Origin—​Once part of a Seigniory—​Survey—​Hessians—​Old map—​The lots—​Officers of 84th Regt.—​Original landowners—​Indian Point—​McDonnell’s Cove—​Grog Bay—​“Accommodating Bay”—​“Gammon Point”—​Black River—​“Long Point”—​Reserves—​Course pursued by the Surveyor—​Number of Hessians—​Their sufferings—​Dark tales—​Discontented—​Returning to Hesse—​A suitable location—​Not U. E. Loyalists—​Received land gratis—​Family land—​Their habits—​Capt. McDonnell—​Squire Wright—​Sergt. Harrison—​The Smith’s—​Grant to Major VanAlstine—​Beautiful Scenery—​Smith’s bay—​“The Rock”—​Over a precipice.

THE FIFTH TOWNSHIP—​MARYSBURGH.

This township is so called after Mary, Duchess of Gloucester, eleventh child of the King.

It is more than likely that the extremity of Prince Edward Peninsula was frequently visited during the French occupancy of Frontenac. Indeed, it is quite probable that the Seigniory granted to La Salle included a portion of the present township of Marysburgh. And no doubt, the beautiful bay, long time called South Bay, that is the body of water lying between Indian Point and Long Point, with Wappoose Island, was often visited during the American rebellion.

The original surveyor, Mr. Collins, having been instructed to lay out a fifth township on the shores of the Bay, recognized the south shore as a desirable place upon which to settle disbanded troops. The forked peninsula, with the coves, and the Black River, supplied valuable facilities for the intending pioneer. The surveying was commenced in 1784, and finished in ‘85 or ‘86. Referring to the loyal combatants, it will be seen that the Foreign Legion composed of Hessians, and a few Irish and Scotch, had offered, to such of them as desired to remain in Canada, grants of land. It was the Fifth Township in which the Government determined they should be located. Having been staying in Lower Canada for a time, they ascended in batteaux in 1785, and, we believe, under the care of Archibald McDonnell, proceeded to occupy the township; while the surveying was still going on along the bay. Great pains had been taken to secure a frontage upon the water either of the Bay Quinté, the South Bay, or Black River. By referring to the oldest map of the township in the Crown Lands Department, it is found that while most of the land was allotted to the Hessians, a considerable portion was taken up by commissioned and non-commissioned officers of the 84th Regt.

By looking at the map of Marysburgh, it will be seen that great irregularity exists in the formation of the lots, and it will be observed that great care has been taken to secure a frontage upon the water to as many lots as possible. This was, as elsewhere shown, to procure a water communication to the central points of the settlement; and as well facilities for fishing, to the settlers. By maps preserved in the Crown Land Department, it may be seen to whom was originally granted certain parts of the township, from the names written thereupon. The names of places are, as well, very suggestive. It would seem that Collins, as well as others, engaged in laying out the townships, did not forget to make claim to eligible lots, here and there, for himself. To these he was doubtless entitled, and acted no unjust part.

At the extremity of what is now called Indian Point, but formerly designated Point Pleasant, was a considerable tract of land which was not laid out into lots, but which has marked upon it, as the original owner, Surveyor John Collins. Subsequently, Collins conveyed it to Alexander Aitkins, a lawyer. Proceeding up the Bay of Quinté, we come to a small cove, known now as McDonnell’s Cove; but maps exist upon which this is called Grog Bay. In the absence of fact, it may not be well to relate the traditionary origin of this name. It is sufficient to say that it most likely arose from the habit, then far more common than now, of visiting this place to fish, and drink grog. Adjacent to this bay was a large block of land granted to Archibald McDonnell. Upon the south shore of Point Pleasant the water, now Smith’s Bay, is marked “Accommodating Bay.” When we remember the great necessity for each settler to have access to the water, and the constant course pursued by the surveyor to secure it; we have no difficulty in arriving at the conclusion that this name arose from the increased facilities this indentation of the lake supplied, in this respect. The point of land stretching out between “Accommodating Bay” and Prince Edward Bay, and Black River, a name due to the dark color of its water, which is north of the furthermost point of the peninsula, is called “Gammon Point.” This name was given, most likely from the fancied resemblance it bore to a ham; the term gammon being the word commonly used by the old settlers for ham. Looking at the hill from the south-west, it does bear such a resemblance.

The lots were surveyed with their front upon the north shore of the Black River, and, then returning to the water, and continuing towards the extremity of Prince Edward’s Bay, the lots were made to front upon the water, making them angular with the others. At the very end of the Bay, they are changed again, so as to have a front at right angles with the others. There are four of these lots. The surveyor had now reached the rock of “Long Point,” as it is called, at the present day. Here we find, again, that the lots front to the north, upon Prince Edward’s Bay. The surveyor next proceeded to survey the base line as far as Bluff Point, and then returning, formed fifteen lots, which brought him to the rear of those laid out at the head of the Bay. He then crossed over to the Lake Shore, and commenced to survey westward. The point was then named “Point Traverse,” from the fact, we fancy, that the surveyor crossed here to continue his survey without laying out the extremity of Long Point, which offered no inducements for the settlers. Upon Point Traverse, was set apart a block of land, containing 2,500 acres, which is marked “Military Lands.” Probably, with some idea of erecting here some military post. These were afterwards conveyed to “Capt. Joseph Allen.” Upon the same map, in the Crown Lands Department, we learn that a block of land near Black River, was originally granted to James Brock, Esq. To the west of the fifteen lots laid out at the neck of Point Traverse, and fronting upon the Lake, was a reserve for the Clergy. This seems to have been the extent of the first survey in this section.

Returning to the Bay of Quinté, we find that at this time lots were laid out along the shore westward, to within about two miles of the Lake on the Mountain. The land thence not being attractive, it was not then surveyed. Subsequently when laid out, the lots were placed at a slight angle with those to the east, in order to front upon the Bay. Sixteen lots brings us to the entrance of Picton Bay. Again a change is found to take place, so that the lots may front upon the east shore of this bay. Six lots reach to the head of the bay, which appears to have been the termination for a time. But subsequently, the survey was continued, being slightly altered, that the base line might follow the old Indian Carrying Place. There were nine lots in this row. Turning to East Lake and West Lake, it will be seen that the lots were arranged to front on either side, as well as at the ends. The time at which these lots mentioned were surveyed, is somewhat uncertain, but probably before 1786.

It is impossible to state the exact number of Hessians who settled in Marysburgh; but judging from accounts, and the names taken from the Grantee’s list, it is surmised there were about forty. Unacquainted with the English language, and unaccustomed to the profound solitude of the forest, and the flittings of the dark-skinned Indian, often in a state of semi-nudity, it is no reason for wonder, if the Hessians felt otherwise than contented in their wilderness home. Although upon the borders of a lovely bay, rich in valuable fish, they were ignorant of the mode of catching them; and, when the Government supplies, which were continued to them, as to the other settlers for three years, was withdrawn; although this valuable article of diet was at their very door, they were exposed to the terrors of actual starvation. Even during the time that rations were to be given them, it is related they were often in want. A dark tale of cupidity, and heartless carelessness on the part of officials, to whom were entrusted the duty of furnishing the necessary stores, has been told. How much of truth there may be in this report, it is now impossible to say. When we remember the circumstances of the times; the settlers scattered along hundreds of miles of uncleared land, that the stores had to be transported from Montreal, and Lachine by batteaux, and that, necessarily, many persons became responsible for the transit, as well as the distribution, we need not be surprised if there was now and then carelessness and neglect; and now and then reprehensible appropriation of stores, which were intended by a paternal Government for the mouths of the hungry. Many of the Hessian settlers would gladly have escaped from all the terrors which encompassed them; but it was now too late. As a general thing, they had not the means of removing. But there were a few who managed to extricate themselves, and who returned to the old country. One John Crogle went to Kingston, mortgaged his farm for £6 to Rev. Mr. Stuart, and took his departure for the fatherland; another mortgaged his lot to Captain Allan and left, leaving his wife; and never returned.

Probably no place in the country afforded a better location for these foreigners who were entirely ignorant of the rugged duties of pioneer life, and had but an imperfect conception of agricultural pursuits, and moreover, were quite unable to speak the English language. It has been said, indeed, that the Government exercised a thoughtful regard in placing them, where a means of existence was at their very door, by the catching of fish, beside what the soil might bring forth. But the fact that they were of a different nationality—​essentially a different people from the loyalist settlers, militated against them. Many of the latter were Dutch, and could speak little or no English; but the former could understand Dutch no more than they could English, German was their native tongue. The Hessians were not U. E. Loyalists, and they were often made to feel this by not receiving for themselves and family the same allowance of land, and by the behaviour manifested toward them by the loyalists. The writer recollects the tone of disparagement toward the “fifth towners,” by an old inhabitant of the fourth town. These things combined to delay prosperity to the township, as a general thing.

They received land gratis; but subsequently when the title deed was given, a sum of £5 was demanded, being the amount of expense incurred at the time of their enrolment into the service. This was protested against upon the floor of the Parliament, but without avail. The quantity of land each should receive was to depend upon the number of children. Beside the allotment to each, at the time of settling, he was to receive an additional fifty acres at the time each child attained the age of twenty-one. This took the name of “Family Lands.”

Although prosperity did not come to the township of Marysburgh as quickly as to the first four townships, yet the time eventually arrived when it partook of the general spirit of advancement. From several sources we have the statement that the old soldiers were for many years given to somewhat irregular habits; and that an important instrument in effecting a reformation among them, was the Rev. Darius Dunham, the first Methodist preacher to visit them.

Beside those of the foreign legion who settled in this township, were several officers, and non-commissioned officers of the 84th regiment, and a few who had been in the regular army. The most important of these was Captain Archibald McDonnell, who arrived at the township in 1784, and landed in the cove, which now bears his name, and there on the shore pitched his tent, until he had erected a log cabin.

Then, there was “Squire” Wright, who was supreme in authority in the township for many a day, even before he was appointed magistrate. He was the Commissary Officer, and the old soldiers were wont to come to him, to settle any differences that might arise among them.

Sergeant Harrison was an early settler, he has a son still living now in his 88th year; yet hale as a man of sixty-eight. He was born in St. John’s, Lower Canada, and was five years old when he came with the family to the place, an elder brother having preceded and erected a hut. He tells us that the Hessians were to have three years’ provisions, but for some reason only received two years. He remembers when blazed trees alone marked the way, from one house to another; and then the bridle path, which in time was widened into a road. The first horse brought to the township is well remembered, it was owned by Colonel McDonnell. This one, with another, were the only ones, for many a year, in the place.

Among the first settlers were William Carson, Daniel McIntosh, and Henry Smith, a German, who had several sons: John, William, Benjamin, Charles, Barnit, and Ernest. Smith’s Bay is so called after Charles.

Major VanAlstine had granted to him a large block of land in this township. The original grant is now before us, and gives the information that the quantity was 437 acres, consisting of lots number five and six in the first concession. The document is dated “4th June, 1796,” signed “J. G., S.” (John Greaves, Simcoe). “Peter Russell, Auditor General. Registered, 17th June, William Jarvis, Registrar.”

This lot of land included the high hill, with the lake at its summit, so well known to excursionists. The Major at once proceeded to erect a mill here, which proved a great convenience to the inhabitants of the township. The lake was for a time called VanAlstine’s Lake. In 1811, Major VanAlstine having died, the land, with 30 acres cleared, and a dwelling-house, and another for the miller, and out-houses are found offered for sale by the executors.

We cannot leave the township of Marysburgh without commending the beautiful scenery to those who may not have visited it, especially the interior, and the shores of South Bay. A trip by carriage from Picton across the rugged hill, which seems to encircle in an irregular manner, the whole township, to the Black Creek, whose dark and narrow waters, inclosed by muddy banks, contrast so markedly with the bright blue of the bay into which it empties, hard by Gammon Point, is one that will well repay any one making it. The irregularity of the roads makes the drive none the less interesting. Approaching the bay, there is spread out a view whose beauty we have never seen surpassed, and rarely equalled either in the new world or the old. Having obtained a close view of Prince Edward Bay, and observed the far-stretching Point Traverse with the three prominent Bluffs; and still further away to the south, the Ducks, and Timber Islands, the tourist should follow us closely as may be the changing shore, that forms the head of Smith’s Bay, to the north side, where another delightful prospect will lay before him.

About six miles east of Wappoose Island, is a bold point standing out into the Lake. It presents a bold and precipitous front of about 100 feet in height. It is now commonly designated the “Rock.” Formerly, it was called “Cape Vesey Rock.” Here was a reserve for the Mississauga Indians, of about 450 acres. This was not surrendered by the Indians until 1835, although some time prior, a settler by the name of Stevenson, had been in occupation. Some years ago, there was overhanging the brow a mass of rock, which one day fell, with a thundering crash. And the old inhabitants tell of a deer and an Indian huntsman, whose bodies were found lying at the foot of the rock both having approached the brink with such speed that, to turn aside was impossible, and both bounded over the perpendicular rock to meet a common doom.