CHAPTER XLVIII.
Contents—The situation of Kingston—Under military influence—Monopolist—Early history of legislation—In 1810—Gourlay’s statement—Police—Modern Kingston—Lord Sydenham—Seat of government—Perambulating—Surrounding country—Provisions—An appeal for Kingston as capital—Barriefield—Pittsburgh—Building of small crafts—Famous—Roads—Waterloo—Cemetery—Portsmouth—Kingston Mill—Little Cataraqui—Collinsby—Quantity of land—Early and influential inhabitants—Post masters—“Honorable men”—Deacon, Macaulay, Cartwright, Markland, Cummings, Smiths, Kerby—Allen McLean, first lawyer—A gardener—Sheriff McLean—“Chrys” Hagerman—Customs—Sampson, shooting a smuggler—Hagerman, M.P.P.—Removes to Toronto.
THE FIRST TOWNSHIP—EVENTS IN ITS EARLY HISTORY.
It must be admitted, the place did not possess from its geographical situation the requisites for becoming a great city, although its situation at the head of the St. Lawrence, would always secure for it a certain degree of importance. There are evils incident to places, depending upon the military and naval bodies, and these can be seen in connection with the history of Kingston. Anything which drew away for a time, to any extent, either arm of the service, had a damaging effect upon the prosperity, and stagnation resulted in business.
Early Kingston must be regarded as a town growing up in the back woods, with a population governed and influenced more or less by the society of officers and soldiers, and while the former gave dignity and tone to the higher classes, the lower portion of society was correspondingly and for evil, affected by the presence of the soldiers, with the numerous groggeries, and low houses of entertainments, which particularly in former days, were found to exist in connection with military establishments.
In the first years of Canada, speculation was common with a certain class. Land claims could be purchased for a mere song. The holder of a “location ticket,” would often part with his title for a few quarts of rum, while many other holders were glad to sell for a few pounds of ready money, or certain articles of stock. It came that in time, a certain number of monopolists, living at Kingston, held land in the rear concessions and neighboring townships. The Imperial money in Kingston was often spent without contributing to the improvement of the adjacent country. But the time came when the encircling settlers compelled a more generous course of conduct.
But, much obscurity rests upon the history of the first seven or ten years of the village of Kingston. The effort has been made to gather up the fragments pertaining thereto, and arrange them so as to form a connected whole.
Cooper says that “the town was laid out in 1793, being then confined to what is now the eastern portion in the vicinity of the Tête du Pont barracks, and what was then known as the Cataraqui Common, lots 25, 24, 23, on which is situated the chief part of the city, were then farm lots of 200 acres each, and uncleared.”
According to the census roll in the office of the clerk of the peace 1794, the population of Cataraqui village was 345. It would seem that the appearance of the village was not very pleasing. But the surroundings had a certain wild beauty. The first buildings were of the most inferior kind. Kingston now so beautiful in its fine buildings and well appointed streets, had in its first days but the humblest of log tenements, with the rude Indian wigwam for a neighbor. Instead of fair broad streets, and a well ordered park, there was the Indian foot path, and the thick tangled wood, with the stately pine.
In 1793 an act was passed “to fix the times and places of holding the courts of quarter sessions, within the several districts,” according to which it was provided that the courts of the midland district should be held in Kingston, in April and October of each year. This added somewhat to the dignity of the place. Then in 1801, there was created an act to empower commissioners of the peace, to establish a market at Kingston, where might be exposed for sale “butchers’ meat, butter, eggs, poultry, fish, and vegetables.” It was further enacted that all “rules and regulations shall be published by causing a copy of them to be affixed in the most public place in every township in the district, and at the doors of the church and court house of the said town of Kingston, &c.”
In 1810, Kingston was yet a small place. Mr. Miles who moved there at the time says there was not a sidewalk or pavement, and he for a time boarded in one of several log houses close by the market place, “where was no lack of mud in the spring and fall, and it was no uncommon thing for waggons to be pried out by fence rails just north of the market place. Pine trees of the forest yet waved almost over the market place. A thick wood covered Point Henry, and the ground, where now is erected St. Andrew’s Church and parsonage. The limit of the town on the north was at Store Street, now Princess, the last house being on the north east side, Alcott’s old store, and on the west side where Mr. Meadows now resides. The road, for it was then such only after passing, Alcott’s turned to the right, and went a zigzag course northwards, till it reached the second concession, now Waterloo road. This was a distance of five miles from the foot of Store Street.”
A resident writing to the Kingston Gazette, December 26, 1815, among other things, says that the town of Kingston, “possessing so many advantages, it is time that its inhabitants should adopt some plan of improving and embellishing of it. The streets require very great repairs, as in the rainy seasons it scarcely possible to move about without being in mud to the ankles; from the breadth, they will admit of very wide footpaths on both sides, which ought to be paved, at least in every part of the town where the buildings are connected. Lamps are required to light the streets in the dark of the moon. Trees should be planted on each side. The streets should be kept free of lumber of every kind, and piles of wood. A fire engine, with a certain number of buckets, with a company of firemen should exist. But first the legislature must form a code of laws, forming a complete police. To meet expense, government might lay a rate upon every inhabitant householder in proportion to value of property in house.”
Another correspondent under the signature of Citizen, says, “January 27, 1816, that he approves of “A Residents” remarks, and in addition, he suggests that the lower classes follow the example of the liberal spirit manifested among heads of society in the previous summer in contributing to the turnpiking of the streets, and paving the footpaths before their own doors. They ought to imitate, though faintly, that noble and generous example.” Besides this, among other things, Citizen speaks against persons who work at their trades on Sunday, instead of going to church. “Luther,” another correspondent says, there is the noise of hammers and axes from sunrise to sunset, on Sundays.
According to the Kingston Gazette, August 14, 1829, the census taken that year shewed the population of the town to be 3528, but this did not include the military. The number of inhabitants in 1836 was 6000.
At the present time, 1867, Kingston is said to cover an area of 2930 acres, while Toronto boasts of 5885 acres.
R. Gourlay says, in 1816, that Kingston “is now progressing rapidly in population and buildings, as well as in business. From 1811 to 1816 the number of dwellings increased from 130 to 300; but it is estimated that 100 more will have been erected at the close of this year.” Much of this prosperity was doubtless due to the war, causing so many troops to be stationed there; at the same time business and general growth of the City received an impetus which the close of the war failed entirely to arrest. This year a bill passed Parliament “to regulate the police, within the town of Kingston.” More ample provision was made in 1824.
In 1821, a writer says, Kingston was the largest town in Upper Canada, containing about 5000 inhabitants including the military. “The people live in good style, but are not very hospitable; they are mostly in the mercantile business.” The number of inhabitants is probably over estimated, as in 1824 it is stated on good authority, that the population amounts to 2336. “The buildings are of such an inferior description as scarcely to be worthy of notice.”
MODERN KINGSTON.
The events chronicled in this work are mainly those which came to pass prior to 1830, and the history of the first township here recorded must mainly be limited to those early days. It will not, however, be inappropriate to glance, and it will be a mere glance at the Kingston of modern days. The greatest event in connection with Kingston, was the selection by Lord Sydenham, when the Upper and Lower Provinces were united in 1840, into one, for the capital of United Canada. Its claim to that honor as the most central city cannot be questioned. It may fairly be questioned on the other hand whether it was a wise and judicious policy, which caused Kingston to be forsaken, and the perambulatory system to be substituted. Had the Seat of Government permanently rested at Kingston, much expense to the country would have been saved, and at the same time a great deal of heart bitterness stirred up by political agitators, likewise prevented. But the hopes of Kingston as the capital were shortlived, and with the death of Lord Sydenham, in 1842, resulting from an accident, who had been mainly the cause of Kingston becoming the capital, the brightest prospects of the oldest town in Upper Canada, were buried.
In 1845 Government was removed to Montreal. The motives according to Cooper, which had much to do in determining the removal were not such as are supposed to actuate statesmen. After rebutting the charge which it seems had been made, that there was “no surrounding country calculated to furnish marketable produce to a large non-producing population,” and referring to the undoubted facts that the townships along the Bay of Quinté were far more than adequate to meet all the gastronomists wants, he concludes. “It may seem a small consideration when treating of so important a branch of the subject, to take into account these circumstances, but there is no ignoring the fact that the absence of some of these minor luxuries had a serious effect on the minds, and perhaps digestion of some of the officials of Her Majesty’s Provincial Government, and some people at a distance are persuaded that Kingston is a city built on a rock, surrounded with barren and stoney wilds, out of which a bare existence is wrung by the occupants, and but a scanty supply afforded to the City, and in deference to those thus unenlightened, facts are dwelt on which may seem trivial to those in the least acquainted with the neighborhood. Since 1845, when the Government was removed to Montreal, this City has greatly increased in the number of well built and commodious houses, which, with a well regulated and well supplied market, tempting the most fastidious, would prevent even the temporary inconveniences which in that year were felt. If any families had to adopt double-bedded rooms, and to import their own celery in those days, we can now assure them ‘nous avous changes tout cela.’ In short we claim for a City central, indeed almost in the very centre of the Province to be governed, proverbially healthy, substantially built, strongly fortified, well lighted, thoroughly drained, pleasantly situated, abundantly supplied, easy of access, the focus of a net-work of good roads, the outlet of the produce of several rich countries, provided with a good harbour, and enjoying many other advantages, a pre-eminence among all Canadian Cities, as the permanent Seat of the Government of the Province.”
The existence of the Seat of Government at Kingston, although of short duration, had a beneficial effect; many handsome buildings were erected besides those used for the several Public Departments. “The Municipal Legislature of the City was encouraged to make improvements in streets, drainage, sidewalks, and otherwise, and to erect the present handsome and expensive edifice, the City Hall and Market House, though not so useful as it would have been had the Government remained here. The whole building is occupied, and produces a revenue exceeding in amount the interest on its cost. On the whole it may fairly be considered that the City was improved by the temporary location of the Government here.”
Barriefield.—The Cataraqui Bridge, which spans the great Cataraqui River, connects Kingston with the Township of Pittsburgh, the origin of which name is sufficiently well indicated. Close by, is the village of Barriefield, “named after Commodore Barrie, who was head of the Naval Department for many years.” “It forms a sort of suburb to the city, and though not a place of much increase, has been long settled. It has an elevated ground, and from it the visitor obtains a very favorable and pleasing view of Kingston, with its harbors, forts and towers. At Barriefield, are built the best small crafts, skiffs, and pleasure boats in use throughout the Province. They are sent hence to all parts, and their character and build are well known to the aquatic sportsman, and amateur mariner. Not only in the Province, but abroad, these boats are sought after, and in use, some of them being now afloat on the Lake of Geneva. The Kingston, Pittsburgh, and Gananoque, and the Kingston and Phillipsville Macadamized Roads run through this township, opening up the township beyond, and affording to the settler a ready access to a never-failing market. Within this township, are upwards of thirty-eight miles of thoroughly macadamized roads, besides good country roads to and between the concessions. That part of Pittsburgh where Barriefield stands, and for about two miles eastward, was formerly part of the township of Kingston. When the site of the Town of Kingston was first selected, the spot where this village is situated was suggested, but was overruled in favor of the present locality of Kingston, which certainly offered greater advantages for the site of a city.”
Kingston Township contains, not only the city of that name, but various villages; “one of the nearest to that city is that of Waterloo, a very pretty and neat little hamlet, about three miles from town. It contains about 300 inhabitants, and has its Town Hall, Church, Stores, Inns, &c.”
“In the neighborhood of this village, is the Cataraqui Cemetery, laid out on a rising ground crowned by a grove of small pine trees. Much care and skill in landscape gardening has been displayed in rendering the ground picturesque and pleasing; a fine and extended view of the surrounding country, and a pretty glimpse of the Bay is obtained from the Cemetery grounds. This spot is not excelled in beauty and appropriateness, by anything in the Province, and is compared by travelers, who view it, to Greenwood Cemetery, in Brooklyn, N. Y. It covers some sixty-five acres of land, and when ornamented by such numerous and elegant monuments, as the living have erected to mark their respect to the beloved dead in older places of sepulture, will be unsurpassed by the oldest and most beautiful cemeteries known.”
“Portsmouth is another village, about equidistant from Kingston with Waterloo, lying westward on the Lake shore; it was at one time, a very bustling spot, and much enterprise was evinced in ship-building. It suffered, for a time, from the withdrawal of the Seat of Government, and the construction of the St. Lawrence canals, but has now recovered its former prosperity, which promises to continue. The ship-building business has revived, and is carried on with energy and success. In its neighborhood are several handsome houses and villa-residences: the surrounding country offering very inviting spots for building. It contains about 350 inhabitants, and a large amount of rateable property, and has an exceedingly neat unique little Church, in old English style, with a belfry.” Portsmouth is now united to Kingston, by the erection of buildings between them.
Within the Township of Kingston, about five miles from the city, is the old “Kingston Mill.” It is situated upon the Rideau Canal. The traveler, as he passes along by train, over a tubular bridge, will be struck by the beauty and grandeur of the scene. (For particulars, see “Early Years of Upper Canada.”)
Little Cataraqui is a stream of small dimensions, confined to the township. In addition to the Little Cataraqui stream, there is running across the township, the Collins Creek, so named after Surveyor Collins. Not far from its source, in the north east part of the township, is a small, pleasant lake, of the same name, while, at its mouth, is Collins’ Bay. This is a beautiful inlet of the Bay Quinté, and forms a good harbour. The place is known as Collinsby, and is situated about five miles west of Kingston.
The quantity of land in the township, is about 47,906. The soil is principally clay upon a limestone foundation; but still there is much of it capable of bearing good crops, to the careful and scientific farmer.
Thomas Deacon, father of the present Post Master, was Post Master from 1800 to 1836, when his duties in the Commissariat Department obliged him to resign that office. The Hon. John Macauley occupied the post from 1813 to 1836, when he resigned, and was succeeded by the present incumbent, Robert Deacon.
We will supplement the reference we have made to the leading men of Kingston, by giving extracts from a communication we have, at the last moment received, written by one who, now well advanced in life, spent his earlier years of manhood in Kingston, when the first inhabitants were in the afternoon of their life.
The Hon. R. Cartwright, the pioneer merchant, and Judge of Mecklenburgh, seems to have stood next in importance and influence to the Rev. Mr. Stuart. “Among the prominent merchants were Thomas Markland, John Cummings, Peter Smith, John Kirby, and John Macaulay.” They were “all honorable men,” and “members of the English Church,” and of undeviating loyalty. Mr. Markland left a son. John Cummings left no issue. He was a man of “great energy; a magistrate, and filled other offices under the Government.” Peter Smith was “highly respected, upright in all his dealings, and free from any moral or political reproach.” “A fine specimen of an English gentleman.” He “carried with him evidence that he was no stranger to good dinners, and understood the qualities of good wine.” He died at an advanced age, 1825, leaving a son and two daughters.
“John Kirby was another fine specimen of an Englishman. He loved good wine and good dinners. Extremely affable, always in good humor, universally respected. His highest ambition, in the evening of his days, seemed to be the enjoyment of domestic tranquility, and a quiet home, made happy to him by a wife of rare sense, intelligent, and possessed of many amiable accomplishments.” The Hon. John Macaulay had a well disciplined mind, possessed great energy of character, and was decided in his political opinions no doubt, from conscientious motives. In his business transactions “he was scrupulously exact.” “Extremely temperate in his habits. Was one of those who passed through life without exposing themselves to the obloquy of their political opponents.” Allen McLean, Esq., the first Lawyer of Kingston; created such by an order in Council. His “abilities were moderate,” and “his original education defective.” “A man of considerable taste, modest, dignified in his deportment. For many years, was the only legal adviser in the place. He was a faithful representative in Parliament for many years. Was liberal in his political opinions.” “As proof of his good taste, he was proprietor of one of the best gardens in the Province. It covered one acre of ground, and contained many choice fruit trees, such as apples, plums, pears, peach, &c.,—all tastefully arranged, kept in prime order, and defended from the wind by a high wall. He took an honest pride in showing his garden to his friends who called upon him, and was not stinted in distributing its luscious products.” Mr. McLean left one daughter, who became the wife of John McLean, Esq., Sheriff of the Midland District. Christopher Hagerman resided for many years in Kingston. Was, for many years, Custom House Officer, and while so, one of his students (Mr. Samson, afterwards of Belleville) detected a man, by the name of Lyons, in the act of carrying smuggled goods, and ordered him to stop. On his refusing to do so, Mr. S. discharged his pistol, which took effect, the ball passing through the chest. Lyons rushed to his house, a few doors off, and fell exhausted from loss of blood. Mr. Samson, frightened at what he had done, hastened to summon two doctors, Drs. Armstrong and Sampson. This occurred before daylight, on the morning of the 26th June, 1824. The life of Lyons was despaired of for many days; but, eventually, he grew better, and gained a moderate degree of health. It is creditable to Mr. Hagerman, that he cheerfully paid the medical attendants. Mr. Hagerman represented Kingston in Parliament several years. He removed to Toronto, a few years previous to the rebellion of 1836.