CHAPTER XI.
Journey from Assam towards Bootan.
Left Gowahatti on the 21st and halted at Ameengong ghat.
December 22nd, 1837.—Left at twelve and proceeded to Hazoo, which is nearly due west of Ameengong, and distant thirteen miles. Road, through grassy plains; much cultivation throughout the greater part. Passed several villages, and forded one stream. Hazoo is at the foot of some low hills, on one of which is a temple of great sanctity with the Booteahs. The hills above this, as well as between this and Ameengong, abound with Cycas, many of which were once dichotomous; on these hills a fleshy Euphorbia likewise occurs, a sure indication of barren soil. Pea-fowl abound. The light-blue Jay figured in Hardwickii, Sterna, Haliætus pondicerianus, Chat, Butcher-bird, Edolius, Plovers, Hoopoe, and Ardea indica, were met with.
December 23rd.—Hazoo, a large village, extending nearly north and south, all the houses surrounded by trees. Areca bamboos, Ficus elastica, F. indicoides, F. religiosa, Sapotea (Mimusops) Arborea, Erythrina. Country to the east very jheely, and one huge expanse of paddy cultivation. Fine Loranthus, Hingtstha repens.
December 24th.—Nolbaree, seventeen miles nearly, N. by W., throughout the latter half of the way, the country consisted of highly cultivated plains, intersected by bamboo jungles, etc. Villages very abundant, surrounded by trees, especially bamboos. The hedges are made of a dwarf Pandanus. Crossed four streams, two not fordable. Grallatores and water-birds innumerable throughout, but especially after passing the Borolia, Bec ouvert or Anastomus coromandelianus, Pelicans, Water-hens, Divers, Ibis bengala, Cigoines (Ardea Pavonia) Syras, Mangoe-bird, large King-fisher, Hawks abundant, of which we observed five species; this is, generally speaking, one of the richest parts of Assam I have hitherto seen.
December 25th.—Dum Dummia, distance ten miles, direction north, country very open, in parts less cultivated than before, scarcely any jungle towards Dum; this is a straggling place on the banks of a small stream called Noa Nuddee.
The bamboo continues common, as well as Pandanus, Pterocarpus marsupium, Bombax, Diospyros ebenum, which are the most common trees. Villages are very numerous, but as usual, entirely concealed from view by jungle.
December 31st.—Up to this morning we remained at Dum Dummia, and had the Booteas alone been consulted, we should have remained there till to-morrow. It is a very uninteresting place, the country consisting of one extensive plain, diversified only by trees wherever there are villages. There is a good deal of cultivation, chiefly however, of rice; some sugarcane is visible, but it is of inferior quality, and evidently not sufficiently watered. Sursoo is considerably cultivated. The river Noa Nuddee is about seventy yards wide, with a stream of three miles an hour; it is full of sand-banks and of quicksands, and is crossed with great difficulty on elephants; by men it is easily fordable. The only shooting about the place is Floriken, which are very abundant, ten or twelve being seen in one day.
We left for Hazareegoung, a Bootea-Assam village to the north. We passed through a similar open country not much cultivated, but overrun with grassy vegetation. The path was of the ordinary description, and not kept at all cleared: crossed a small stream twice, with a pebbly bed and sub-rapids, a sure indication of approaching the hills. These, in their lower portion, have a very barren appearance, but this may arise from the cultivated patches: land-slips are of very frequent occurrence.
The grasses of the enormous plains, so prevalent every where in this direction, are Kagaia, Megala, Vollookher, Saccharum spontaneum, this is soft grass, and affords an excellent cover for game, Cymbopogon hirsutum, which is more common than the C. arundinaceum, Erianthus, Airoides, Rottboellia exaltata, Arundo, (?) Anatherum muricatum, Apluda, Trizania cilearis, is common in the old rice khets.
Among these occur a tall Knoxia, Plectranthus sudyensis, and P. uncinatus.
I observed Vareca, Grislea, about Dum Dummia. Elytrophorus is common in rice khets.
Towards Hazareegoung we came on a high plain, covered principally with S. spontaneum. Among this occurred Lactuioides, Premna herbacea, Grewia, with here and there Pterygodium. I observe here Bootea bamboo baskets made water-proof by caoutchouc; this is a practice much adopted by the Booteas: and the trees are here. The large coloured stipulæ are peculiar to the young shoots cultivated, they are often a span long. The young fruit is enveloped by three large coloured scales, which originate from the annuliform base; this is hence a peduncle, not a bracte, as I before supposed.
January 1st, 1838.—Halted.
January 2nd.—Marched to Ghoorgoung, a small village, eight miles from Hazareegoung and nearly due north. We crossed similar grassy tracts: the country gradually rising as we approached the hills.
Very little cultivation occurred. Crossed the Mutunga, now dry, but the breadth testifies to its being a large stream in the rains, as the boulders do to its being a violent one. The same plants continue; small jungle or wood composed of Simool. Trophis aspera, Cassia fistula, Bauhinia, Butea scandens, Byttneria, underwood of Eranthemum, and another Acanthacea.
About this place Cnicus and Arundinaria occur, and a small Santalaceous or Olacineous plant, with the habit of a Polygala. Merops apiaster is very common.
January 3rd.—To Dewangeri, distance eight miles.
Our route hither lay for the greater portion up the bed of the Durunga, the stream of which makes its exit about one mile to the west of Ghoorgoung. After ascending its bed for some time, the ascent becomes steep, for perhaps 800 or 1,000 feet, when we reached a portion of Dewangeri, but two or three hundred feet below the ridge on which the village is situated. The hills bounding the watercourse are very steep, many quite perpendicular, owing to having been cut away; generally they are of decomposed granite as at Dacanara, in some parts of conglomerate.
The torrent contains but little water, and very few fish, the banks are wooded tolerably well, as soon as the lower barren ranges are past.
At the base Cassia fistula, Leguminous trees, Artemisia, Simool, Spathodea, Bignonia indica, Sterculia, Cæsalpinea, Phlogacanthus thyrsiflorus, Pæderia fætida, Eugenia, Rhamnea, Croton malvæfoliis are found among the usual grasses, which form the chief vegetation.
These continue along the sandy bed for some time, but afterwards the usual small Andropogons usurp their place. Anthistiria arundinacea continue longest; with some of the large Saccharum, Rubus moluccanus soon appears, with Melica latifolia, and a species of Rhus.
Leptospartion is very common up to 1,000 feet, Pandanus 3-500 feet, but soon ceases; the higher precipices abound with an elegant palm tree, habitu Cocos.
Fleshy urticeæ and Aroideum become common at 300 feet, along the shaded watery banks, and continue so long as shade and humidity are found. Equisetum commences at 300 feet, Arundo, Saurauja, Pentaptera, which last ascends to 1,000 feet, as does Dillenia speciosa, Castaneæ feorox commences at 500 feet. Between this and the Choky, Polypodium, Wallichianum arboreum, Davallia grandis, Oxyspora, Musci, Goodyera, and Composita arborea are found.
At the Choky, the elevation of which is 965 feet, Œsculus begins. Wallichia,* Œschynanthus, Urtica gigas,* Derngia,* Govania,* Anthistiria arundinacea, Alstonea, Angiopteris, are found. Grislea is found as high as 1,000 feet. Ficus obliquissima is found at 300 feet, and Ficus altera species as high as 700 feet.
At 1,200 feet Rubi sp., Panax, Cordia, are found, and on the steep ascent, Hastingsia,* Gordonia, Eurya, Corisanthera, Griffithia.
At one place the jack fruits, Ficus elastica, Compositi arborea, Panax altera species.
Dewangeri occupies a ridge 200 feet above our halting place, the elevation of which is 2,031 feet. The view to the north is confined to a ravine of 1,500 feet deep, at the bottom of which runs a considerable mountain torrent: to the SW. plains are visible, to the east and west the view is hilly.
The village itself is a poor one, containing perhaps sixty houses, but these are divided into three or four groups; the houses, with the exception of three or four stone and lime ones, are of the usual build, viz. of bamboo, and raised on muchauns. Filth and dirt abound every where, and the places immediately contiguous to the huts are furnished plentifully with various ordures.
Along the ridge three or four temples occur, these are of the Boodhistical form: they are composed entirely of slate, are white-washed; none are of any size, and the workmanship is rude in the extreme; on each face of the square basement, slabs of slate with inscriptions are visible, and in one instance many of these are ranged along a longish wall. The Pagodas are surrounded with long banners, with inscriptions fastened longitudinally to bamboos. On the west side of this the view is remarkably pretty, embracing all the temples, part of the village, and the Rajah’s house. The hills adjoining being considerably diversified and remarkable, and for India over picturesquely wooded.
The pucka houses are ungainly structures, the height being out of all proportion to the width, the walls are very thick, and composed of slate slabs, the roof is choppered with projecting eaves, the windows are very narrow. Each has three stories, the middle one being occupied by the owner, this is divided into several rude compartments, each of which has one or two balconies.
The steps are rude and awkward, consisting of notches cut into large blocks. The cooking is carried on, on the ground floor, much to the edification of the residents above. Dirt abounds in every direction. The doors are rudely constructed of wood.
January 4th.—To-day was occupied by moving up into the village, in which we occupy a pucka house.
January 5th.—Visited the Sooba or Rajah, his house is very picturesque, reminding me much of the pictures of Swiss cottages: it is white-washed, with a red belt. The interior is capacious; the state room has hangings, which are decorated with native pictures on cloth. At the east end is a recess in which are some well-executed Chinese statues, the chief figure is of large dimensions, and is intended to represent the Durmah Rajah, whose statue is supposed to give infallibility. Two bells were suspended, one from the centre, the other from the balcony, the tongues of which were long, of ivory, and moved by a string. The Rajah received us in state, amidst discordant sounds of horns, pipes, and drums; his followers for the most part were badly clothed, the few decent looking persons being only decent externally. He was seated on a raised dais and was well dressed. He is a stout Chinese looking man, about 50 years old, and his deportment was certainly easy and dignified. The meeting was very friendly, but it is evident that we shall be delayed here at least seven days.
The central room in the Rajah’s house is used as a guard house! arms were fixed round the walls, but they seemed to consist chiefly of spears, swords, and bucklers.
January 6th.—I walked this morning to a village, a mile to the west, in which there is a picturesque pucka house of religion. What pleased me especially was a specimen of a juniper, of extreme elegance, with drooping branches. The house itself was of the usual form, and one end was occupied as usual by an ornamental window and balcony. I noticed in addition Ulmus and Quercus.
The vegetation hitherto seen about this, consists of mango trees, several species of fig, among which were Ficus indica, elastica, terminalioides, Papyrifera, etc. two with cordate leaves occur. Ulmus, Quercus, Bombax, Juniperus and Pinus, both cultivated. Aralia or Panax, four or five species, Croton malvæfolium, Justicia, Adhatoda, Peristrophe, Amaranthaceæ, Artemisia, Urtica urens? and heterophylla, Pogostemon, Triumfetta, (these occupy the old cleared spots,) Castaneæ sp.? Artocarpus integrifolium, Erythrina, Sambucus ebulus, Rubi, three species, Solanum farinaceum, Engeldhaardtia, Pandanus, Leptospartion, Calamus, Nauclea, Euphorbia carnosa, foliis ligulatis, Artocarpus chaplasha, the fruit of which is eaten, Phlebochiton extensus, Sedgwickia cerasifolia, Callicarpa arborea, Porana, Randia, sugarcane, citrons, tobacco.
The fauna contains two or three squirrels, one of which is the small one of Upper Assam, Trocheloideus, the lesser Edolius or Drongo minor. Mainas, two kinds, carrion crows, Bucco, Muscipeta flammea, and one or two other species, Parus, two or three species, kites, large tailor-birds, sparrows. The black-bird of the torrents, and the usual water-birds, black pheasants; bulbuls very common, Bucco barbatus, parroquets, barking deer.
The temperature being 58°61', water boiled at 208°. The mean of two observations accordingly gives the altitude as 2,165 feet above the sea.
The number of houses is about 130, but these form two or three detached villages. The population is considerable, and there is no want of children. The people are stout and very fair, with ruddy cheeks, but abominably dirty. Some of the men are six feet in stature. We had one opportunity of witnessing their practice with the bow, but only two or three of the dozen candidates were decent shots. The mark was a very small one, and the distance 120 steps, but none hit it during the time we looked on, nor even the circular patch of branches, on which the slab of wood of this form was placed. The practice was accompanied with the usual proportion of noise and gesticulations.
There is very little cultivation on the hills around, so that this people are, at least about here, evidently dependent on the plains for their supplies. The cattle are a good breed, and totally different from those of the plains. Ponies and mules are by no means uncommon; there are likewise pigs and fowls, both of which are abundant, and of fine description.
January 16th.—Every thing leads me to conclude that the Booteas are the dirtiest race in existence, and if accounts be true, they are equally deficient in delicacy. Although much beyond other mountain tribes inhabiting either side of the Assam valley, in the structure of their houses, in their clothing, in their language, and probably in their religion, they are inferior to them in other points. Thus their looms are perhaps really primitive, and of the most simple construction; neither in their weapons of defence are they at all superior.
On the 14th I ascended a peak to the eastward, and certainly 1,000 feet above the village: on the summit of this, where there were the remains of an old clearing, I observed Pyrus, Acer, Rhus, Tetrantheræ, three or four species, Bigonia species picta, Carex, Composita arborea, Pteris aquilina, Kydia zyziphifolia, Saurauja, Eurya, Mæsa Panax, Artemisia, Hedyotis scandens, Callicarpa arborea, Camellia, Cælogyne, Oberonia, Otochilus fuscescens, Ficus, Cinnamomum, Æschynanthus, Pholidota, Cyrtandra, Piper, Citrus, Corysanthera, Hypoxis, Tupistra, Bambusa.
Sanicula appeared at 2,500 feet with Bartramea spectabilis, and a small Ophiorhiza, Acer at 2,800 feet, as likewise Rhopala; at 2,000 feet, Costus and Abroma, Thunbergia grandiflora.
January 19th.—I find that large quantities of Mungista or madder are sent to the plains from this, where the plant is very common; it is exchanged for ill preserved salt-fish, one bundle of madder for one fish. This fish is of an abominable odour, and probably tends to increase the natural savour of the Booteas, which, considering their total unacquaintance with soap, is sufficiently strong.
P. tells me that the Kampo country is situated north of this, and that it may be reached by a Kampo, in twenty-six days.
The language of the people we are now among, is distinct from that of Assam, as will be observed from the names given to the common grains cultivated in both countries, their principal grain is barley, which is of a fine description; very little cultivation being carried on here, the people drawing all their supplies from the plains. The following is a list of grains cultivated: those marked * are Cerealea:—
Assam. Bootea.
1* Lalkonee dhan, Yungra, )Panici sp.
2* Legaid ditto, Ditto, )
3 Boot, Tel, Hnam, A Sesamum.
4 Cultivation in Upper Assam, Braime, (Polygonum Fago-
(pyrum, grains
(very large.
5* Bhobosa, Khongpo, Eleusine sp.
6* Goomdam, Peihnam, Zea Mays.
7 Gellei-ma, Linjee, Phaseoli sp.
The palm from the cliffs on the road hither is evidently a species of Phænix, pinnulis inferioribus spiniformibus reticula copiosa, pinnulis liniaribus acuminatissimus, apicem versus canaliculatis reticulo copioso, the height must be about that of a moderate Areca. No specimens of the trunk, none of flowers and seeds have been brought to me.
The temples here have a good deal of the Burmese shape, but the dome is more like that of a Mussulman mosque.
January 22nd.—Yesterday evening Mr. Blake’s Khidmutgar died rather suddenly, he had been ailing for some days, but apparently not serious; his indisposition was owing to over-loading the stomach with radishes, etc. in which all partook too freely during the protracted halt, thus causing a good deal of sickness.
This place is so straggling that it is difficult to make a guess at the number of the houses, the greater number of the people are temporary residents and mostly are natives of Kampo,[{205a}] they are more dirty than the Booteas, and seem to have an especial predilection for begging. When wishing to be very gracious they bow and gesticulate awkwardly, shewing their tongue at the same time. Their principal dress is coarse woollen clothes, and in lieu of turbans they wear caps or hats. Their beasts of burden are principally asses, which are perhaps, from bad treatment, undersized: they likewise use goats, and largish animals between goats and sheep in appearance; of these we saw one male only, it had once spiral horns. Even a little black kid was not exempt from carrying its share, this was ornamented by woollen tassels of a red colour, fastened through a hole in the ear.
Pemberton tells me, that most of these people come hither with the view of going to Hazoo, a place of pilgrimage in Assam; some remain here as a security for the return of their brethren in three months, the period during which leave is granted by our friend the Rajah of this place. Their language is totally different from that of the Booteas. The day before yesterday an edict against catching fish, being taken off as I supposed it would be on shewing the Rajah some flies, Blake and I went down, and repeated our visit yesterday; the bed of the river at the debouchment of the path leading towards Tongsa, is elevated 1,431 feet, (70.209.8), [{205b}] it is of no great size, and is generally fordable; the fish are almost exclusively Bookhar. [{205c}] I saw one or two Sentooreahs, [{205d}] and caught a long thin Bola, [{206a}] beautifully banded with purplish-blue. The Bookhars as usual take a fly well, especially red hackles; the largest was caught by Blake, and must have weighed nearly three pounds.
Very little worth noticing occurred in the vegetation. Sedgwickia is common and of very large size, 2,400 feet above the river, as well as tree ferns.
Equisetum occurs in the bed of the river; in some places at the same level a species of Ranunculus, Aroidea, Succulent Urticeæ were common; along the edges or in the small churs, that have established themselves here and there, and which are covered with the usual Sacchara, but of smaller size; Erythrina, Leptospartion, Sambucus, Bœhmeria tomentosa, Kydia calycina, Grislea, Tupistra, Leea occurred, Ficus elastica is not uncommon, one specimen presented itself, which had sprung up on another tree, fifty feet from the ground; this it had destroyed, and the appearance was singular enough.
The juice is used for water-proofing bamboo vessels. The general rocks are slate, and this was the only one we saw in situ; the vegetation is rather barren.
Near the bed of this river, which is called the Deo Panee, I found a curious Menispermous genus, Columnea, Clypeæ perianthia uncialata, ore integeriuscula, a Myrtacea, Uncaria, Abroma augusta, etc.
On ascending, Murraya exotica, Magnoliaceæ, Pæderia fætida, and Bignonia, occurred at low elevations, Lobelia baccata, Wulfenia obliqua, Costus, Chloranthus, Justicea orchidiflora below 600 feet, Eurya occurred scarcely below 1,800 feet with Millingtonia simplicifolia.
The cattle here are really noble, particularly the bulls; they are much like the Mishmee Methuns, but are distinct, [{206b}] they are very quiet.
January 23rd.—Left at twelve, and arrived late at Rydang on a nullah, distant eight miles. Passed no villages, but passed a bridge erecting over the Deo Nuddee, at which place a Lam Gooroo or high Priest was employed: vegetation continued the same, and only two new plants occurred, a Stemodia with large yellow flowers, and a Begonia, with branched stems. Rydang is 2,404 feet above the sea (55.208½.) [{212}]
January 24th.—Started early in the morning, (at 8 A.M.) the coolies mostly leaving at daylight. Yet although the distance was only eleven miles, we did not reach till 5 P.M. and many of the coolies did not arrive till late at night. The fact is the ascent was nearly uninterrupted during the day, the highest point traversed being about 6,000 feet. We then descended slightly to Khegumpe, our halting place, the altitude of which is 5,395 feet (46.202,) at the highest point Fahr. thermometer stood at 42° at 1 P.M.
The first part of the road lay over grassy sparingly-forested hills, until we reached 4,000 feet. Here or a little below this the change in the vegetation commenced, the first elevational plants being Serissoid; Gaultheria, and Rhododendron commenced at about 3,600 feet on dry rocky eminences, which it always prefers.
On the 1st eminence, 600 feet above Rydang or 3,000 feet above the sea, Quercus, Castanea, Sedgwickia, Polypodium Wallichii, Lobelia, Pyramidalis, Composita arborea, Gordonia, Pteris aquilina, Anthistiria, Gramen airoides, Callicarpa arborea, Artemisia, Tephrosia, Flemingia, Govania, and these continued up to 4,000 feet. We here met with Kampo Tartars with their laden sheep, the children being generally placed cradle-fashion on the top of the loads, each in its own basket. Itea macrophylla occurred at 3,200 feet, with Clematis, Hastingsia, Bignonia, Euphorbiacea, Briedleia.
At 3,300 feet Kydia zyziphifolia, Rhopala, Composita arborea, Hypericum,* Triumfetta, Smilax, Indigofera.*
At 3,600 feet, the same with Panax, Wendlandia, Myrtacea arborea, l. Melica latifolia.
At 3,800 feet, Hedychium, Gaultheria, Habenaria, Serissoides, Gnaphalium, Gordonia, here very abundant, covered with Lichens and epiphytical Orchidea, Phyllanthus, Emblica.
At 4,000 feet, Rhododendron arborea, Eugenia, l. Gaultheria arborea, Echinanthus, Bambusa, microphylla.* The same trees continue.
At 4,200 feet, Hedychium, Briedleia, Pyrus, Ficus,* and Rhododendron in flower, Gordonia, Itea macrophylla, Pteris aquilina, Osbeckia nepalensis, Artemisia major, Airoides, Flemingia.
At 4,500 feet, Myrica, Callicarpa arborea, Verbenaceæ, Buddlæoid,* Ardisia, Mæsa, Panax, Piper, Styrax, Camellia,* Polygonum rhæoides, Cyrthandra common, Mimosa arborea, Betula,* Ficus, foliis cordatis hispidis, Kydia calycina, Inga, Rubus moluccanus. Anisadenia, Begonia, Otochilus latifolius, Tussilaginoides, Neckeræ, Urtica, Gaylussacia, Lobelia, Panax, Æschynanthus venosus of Churra,* Lycopodium of Surureem,* Smilax ruscoideus,* Liparis, Rhododendron arboreum verum, Bucklandia of vast size. Hoya fusca, Ophiopogno, Viola, Hymenophyllum, Croton heterophyllum, Convallaria oppositifolia, Plectranthus Roylii, Begonia picta, Isachne, Cerastium, Spiræa, Hedera, Hypericum, Peliosanthes, Carex gracilis rupium, which commenced at 5,500 feet, Bambusa microphylla.
The forests here were damp and tropical so far as herbaceous underwoods were concerned, the trees were loaded with mosses chiefly pendulous Neckeræ and Hypnea, as well as the rocks, Epiphytes were common.
We then continued along ridges about the same elevation, Ranunculus, Hemiphragma, Thibaudia buxifolia, Polygonum rheoides, Pyrus indica. Gnaphalium common, Pteris aquilina, Airoides, Artemisia on sunny spots, Gaultheria, Galium of Churra, Arundo. The trees were about this all scraggy, but of picturesque appearance. Choripetalum, Panax, Laurineæ,* Piper, Cissus, Photinia and Gleichenia major, Thibaudia myrtifolia,* Potentilla, Calophyllum,* Hydrangea arbuscula,* Thalictrum majus,* Crawfurdia speciosa,* Macrocapnos,* Daphne papyrifera.*
Our march now wound round a huge hill with rocky head, lowering several hundred feet above us, the road being narrow, rocky, overhanging vast precipices. All the trees were scraggy, stunted with tufted grasses. Here about Dipsacus of Churra occurred, Buddleia, Phlomoides, Lonicera, Rosa, Jubrung, Cheilanthes dealbata of Brahmakund, Asparagus, Urticea arborea floribus fæm. capitulatis aurantiaces, Spiræa bella, Hymenopogon, Saxifraga ligularis,* on the rocks Primula,* in the crevices, with Hydrocotyla, Thalictrum renatum, Umbelliferæ,* Scirpus, Stemodia, Compositæ, Hypericum, Didymocarpus contortus of Oklong, Erianthus, Gymnostomum, all these on the bare rocks. Along the path, Codonopsis, Cnicus, Valeriana, Hardwickia, Lobelia.
Hence we passed along nearly at the same elevation through romantic paths, the vegetation being European, and comparatively open: the trees covered with moss, with grassy swards here and there: the scenery was beautiful, the descent hence to Khegumpa was gradual and easy, along similar paths.
Noticed the following trees, etc. in the following order: Tetranthera, Gaultheria arborea, Tradescantia cordifolia,* Acer, Polygala, Deutzia, Tradescantia, Jasminum triphyllum, Plectranthus azureus, Macrocapnos, Rubia cordifolia,* Cucurbitacæ Cissampeloid, then forests of Rhododendron, on the paths Swertia, Potentilla, Fragaria, Alnus Acer folius palmatum lobatis oppositis, Porana.
This day I gathered about 130 species, the march was really delightful. The plants marked thus * indicate elevation.
Madder is furnished by both Rubia munjista and R. cordifolia, these species are quite distinct, the latter affecting greater elevations than the former, scarcely descending below 4,000 feet.
Scarcely any water occurred on the route; from just above Khegumpa, a beautiful valley is seen to the left, with a good deal of cultivation. No large villages were seen.
January 25th.—Khegumpa. This is a pretty place; but the whole country has a wintry appearance from the trees having mostly deciduous leaves; it is a small village, not containing twelve houses. Pagodas with the inscription-bearing walls occur as usual; on a small hill rising from just below the village, a large house with out-houses belonging to a Lam Gooroo, is the prettiest bit of architecture I have yet seen. We put up in a small house, of the usual poor construction, capable of containing four or six people, the roofs are of wood, the planks being kept down by stones. The evening was very cold, but the thermometer did not fall below 44°. Here a solitary specimen of Pinus was seen.
A beautiful tree, with pendulous leaves and cones, which resemble those of Abies, occurred. Rhododendron is common here. Around the hut I observed Lobelia, Rumex, Quercus, Ranunculus, Plantago, Leucas ciliata, Gnaphalia, Rubus, Urtica urentior, Rubi 2, Pteris aquilina, Geranium, Galium, Artemisia major, Fragariæ, Betula? ramis pendulis, foliis lineari lanceolatis, Jubrung, Phlomoides, in flower, Spiræa bella, Tetranthera, Daucus, Gleichenia major, Oxalis corniculata, Dipsacus. The trees were covered with Lichens; the only cultivated plants I saw, and of these only straggling individuals, were tobacco and Bhobosa.
In a wood at the base of the hill on which the Lam Gooroo’s house is situated, Saurauja hispida, and S. arborea,* Woodwardia,* Rubia cordifolia, Oaks, Spiræa bella, decomposita, Stemodia, Cerasus, Curculigo, Pogonatherum,* Carduus, Polygonum rheoides, Panax, Bucklandia, Berberis asiatica and Porana, occurred.
Our march, after passing this hill, commenced by a descent through a damp wood of Oaks, Eurya. Here Swertiæ 2 occurred on banks. Clematis verbesina, Gordonia, Erythrina, Myrica. Thence we passed along a ridge, the forests being stunted and wintry, abounding with Rhododendron and oaks. Myrica, and pendulous lichens occurred in abundance, but grasses predominate, chiefly Airoid and Andropogons.
From this to the right was seen a beautiful valley with a moderate-sized village and picturesque houses, with considerable and very clever cultivation.
Thence we crossed to the other side of the ridge, descending a little and then continuing through forests of oak, consisting of a species found on the Khasyah hills, and approaching Q. Robur: as all the leaves had fallen, the whole appearance was that of winter. Here I shot the Jay figured in Royle’s work: continuing to descend very gradually, I observed Epilobium,* Neckera, Fissidens, Brachymenium, Nerioideum in fruit and half buried in the fallen leaves; a pretty Gentiana, Ruta albiflora, Potentilla. After passing along this for some way we commenced a sharp descent. At about 4,800 ft. Vitex simplex, occurred. Indigofera re-appeared, with Saccharum rubro nitens of Churra, the other grasses being Andropogons, 2-3, and Orthopogon, Hedychium, Gordonia soon re-appeared: to the east, cultivation was visible, and to the north, Pines were visible in every direction stretching away far below us to a considerable torrent. About one-third of the way down this steep ravine, at the bottom of which a torrent was heard roaring, Wendlandia, Spiræa bella, Hedychium, Gaultheria arborea, Aspera Rhododendron, Pteris aquilina, Artemisia, Saurauja hispida, Indigofera, Eurya, Mimosa arborea, Mæsa angustifolia of yesterday; Osbeckia nepalensis, Viburnum, Tetranthera, Ficus, Gleichenia minor, Crawfurdia speciosa, Polygonum rheoides, were found. Hitherto the woods had been dry, or rather so, but on turning to the east, we came into damp woods presenting many tropical features, along which we continued descending gradually for some time: at the commencement in this, Callicarpa arborea, a weeping Beech, Dipsacus verbesina, and the Alnus, of Thumathaya occurred, Arbutoideus, Hydrangea, Urtica heterophylla, Neuropeltoid aromatica. Then below we came on Piper, Deeringia, Cerasus, Sanicula, Cyrtandracea, Cheilosandra gracilis, and fleshy Urticeæ. Underwood, herbaceous forms of Acanthaceæ, Ferns, as Davallia, Asplenium, all more or less succulent. Darea, Glycine, Buchanania, Saurauja ferruginea, Thalictrum majus, Pothos, etc. Hypericum, Begonia, Panax terebinthaceus, Magnoliacæ, Garciniæ, Valeriana cordifolia.* Passing on at the same elevation, we suddenly rounded a ridge, and in one moment came on dry, sunny, rocky, grassy ground, the trees being exclusively Rhododendron, oaks and a few Gordonias with Airoid, Andropogons, Pteris aquilina: we then came on the brink of the ridge up to which Pinus longifolia ascends; the elevation of this was 4,132 feet (60.204½.) [a/][{212}] From this all around Pinus is visible in profusion; we then dipped to the south, this face being occupied by thick forest, having Rhododendrons on the skirts. From the above spot Saleeka was visible, with a fine grove of Pines, it is 1,500 feet, at least above this.
The descent was steep, we soon came on Callicarpa arborea, Celtis megala, Pogostemon, Stemodia grandiflora; this was about 4,300 feet, where a clearing had been commenced: close to this I observed Martynia, Pteris, Composita arborea, Desmodium vestilum, Flemingia, and gathered at 4,000 feet a Verbenaceous shrub, looking like a Plumbago, and a Bœhmeria; continuing, without descending much, I came on Pinus, Rhododendron, Gaultheria.
Loranthus was here a common parasite on Pinus, oaks occurred but the species was changed; this had small leaves, white underneath; and descending we continued through pine woods, Artemisia minor, together with the usual grasses and Aspideium macrosomum.
Here we travelled along a hill just above a ravine. Either side of this was covered with grasses and pines, the ravine being crowded with oaks, etc. Panax, and Composita arborea occurred.
A little below this, Hastingsia, common, Desmodium hispidisum, Artemisia minor, Briedelia, Mimosa, and several Compositæ: we continued descending very steeply, and observed Holcus elegans, Melica latifolia, Erianthus Apludoid Circium.
At 2,600 feet, came on Scutellaria; Pines had ceased, but on the opposite side of the nullah, they descended lower. Knoxia scandens, Kydia calycina, Hastingsia, Hedyotis linearis, Ficus pedunculis radiciformibus pendulis, Leguminous trees as Dalbergia, Triumfetta; Bœhmeria, Asparagus, Buchanania again, Solanum, 10-dentat., Urtica urens,--l. (66.208½.) [a/][{212}]
The altitude of the bed of the Cameon nullah is here, 1,937 feet, its banks are formed by hills cut away and hence precipitous, those to the east are covered with Pines, Oaks descend to this. Here Arundo Karka, Leptospartion, Erythrina, Artemisia major, Solanum farinaceum, black pheasants of which I shot a male. Ficus Dumooriya, Grislea, Rhamnoid scandens, Pandanus, Bœhmeria torrentum, Urtica pendula, Barleria Prionites of Dgin, Sida cuneifolia, Dalbergioid.
Thence we ascended 100 feet or thereabouts, and descended to another and larger torrent. Anonaceæ, Phlogacanthus thyrsifloris here occurred.
The bed of this stream is 70 to 80 yards wide, but the volume of water is inconsiderable. The hills forming the opposite bank are lofty, not under 4 to 5,000 feet; their bases and the nullah above alluded to have the vegetation of Dgin, otherwise they are clothed with the usual grasses and noble Pines. The brown bird with crooked bill was heard here.
At 500 feet above the torrent Menispermum, Bidens albiflora, Megala, Leptospartion, Verbenacea, Plumbaginea, Mucuna, Desmodium hispidum and Ficus were seen as before: Phyllanthus, Emblica, and Grislea occurred at 800 feet: Grewia at 1,000 feet: and Osbeckia linearis occurred at 1,200 feet in rocky places; with Poa, Cynosuroides of Churra, and Bassia at 1,300 feet, with Emblica, Labiata sudyensis, Osbeckia nepalensis, Ficus.
On rounding the ridge to the east, which is 200 feet above this place Sassee, we came on a forest of oak, Rhododendron, Viburnum, Pothos pinnatus.
January 26th.—Sassee. Our coolies left us here, they are not very good ones, not equal to Khasyah, they are however merry, and whistle or sing when tired, their feet are generally naked, but occasionally they wear leathern sandals. Thermometer 60°: water boiled at 204½°: altitude 4,109 feet.
About this place I first met with Thlaspi bursa pastoris, Malva rotundifolia also occurs, Ligustrum, Adhatoda! Euphorbia ramis 4-gonis, foliis? in spinis abeuntibus! Bambusa, Urtica urentior, Geranium, Rumex of Khegumpa, Pancratium or Crinum! Peristropha triflora, Holcus elegans, Pteris aquilina both Artemisias, Panicum cynosuroides! Stemodium ruderalis! Callicarpa arborea! Cerasus, Pyrus indica and malus, Barleria prionitis! Ervum, Hedychium coronarioides! in wet places, Buchanania, Peperomia, Moschosma! Dendrobium! Thibaudia myrtifolia, Gordonia, Dioscorcæ! Tetrantheroid arbor magna, Pinus longifolia, Quercus, 2-sp. Rhus, Citrus also is found. Thus the mixture of forms is nearly excessive, those marked ! thus indicate usually low elevations. Rubia cordifolum.
The whole four leaves of this plant are petiolate, but one pair is perhaps always unequal, one occasionally abortive, I look upon this as a proof that the so-called stipulæ of Stellatæ are real leaves. There is this difference then between Rubiaceæ and Stellatæ, the one has covered buds, the other not. The development of the lamine before the petiole is particularly conspicuous in this plant.
Buck-wheat with trisulcate seeds, and Cannabis sativa are found here; barley is cultivated.
January 27th.—Sassee: temperature 58°, big metal thermometer. Tomato found here; Leptospartion ascends woody ravines as far as this; of birds, the larger dove is abundant; Verbena officinalis.
January 28th.—On walls about this a Lobelia, and Stemodia ruderalis occurred. Sassee is a ruined village, said once to have been large, now containing not more than five or six houses, an equal number being in ruins.
January 29th.—Commenced to descend almost immediately, until we reached the Giri Nuddee, we then ascended again 5,600 feet, and continued over excessively precipitous rocky ground, until we reached the nullah again.
The same vegetation continued until we had descended some hundred feet. Pinus, Quercus, Rhododendron, Viburnum, Indigofera, Osbeckia nepalensis, Desmodium, Gaultheria arborea, Rubus, deltoidifolius, Conyza, Saurauja ferruginea, Crawfurdia speciosa, Labiata sudyensis, Dipsacus occurs but is rare, Gordonia, Rubus idæus, Gleichenia minor, Pendulous lichens, Galium asparagus, Engeldhaardtia, Smilax.
The descent was steep. Thibaudia myrtifolia, Peperomia, Stemodia grandis, Airoid, Otochilus linearis.
At 300 feet Composita arborea, and penduliflora, Polygonum rheoides, Flemingia, and a cleared spot with Zea Mays. 400 feet Pteris aquilina, Rubus moluccanus, Aspidium Polypodioides, Lygodium, Aspidium macrosorum, Moschosma, Mimosa arborea, Millet, Cerasus, Hedyotis, Plectranthus, Roylia, Knoxia Scandens, Ruta albiflora, Rottlera, commenced at 500 feet. Stemodia, Hovenia, Cerastium, 4-Ovulatum, Carex.
Carex, Kydia, Jujubifolia, Randia, Hovenia, occurred at 600 feet, with Rhopala, Panax, Ficus obliqua.
Then shady jungle commenced, underwood of Ferns, Acanthaceæ, Urticeæ, Andropogons, Stemodia secunda occurred at 700 feet. [{217a}] Hastingsia, Pogostemon, Kydia calycina, Glypea, Curculigo, 750 feet, with Clematis Cana, Cerasus, Quercus Robur, this came down a ridge. Rhus acidissima.
Scleria, Lycopodia, Mæsa, Sterculia Balanghas, and Kydia Jujubifolia, at 900 feet. [a/][{217a}] Phlomoides, Acanthacea specicosa, Pothos pinnatus, Choulmoogrum, Malpighiacea, at 1,000 feet. [a/][{217a}] Buchanania, Magnolia, Achyranthes, Murraya exotica, Sedgwickia, Urtica Gigas, Chloranthus inconspicuus, Peliosanthes, Phænix pygmæa, Hedysarum acenaciferum, at 1,200 feet. [a/][{217a}]
The altitude of the bed here is 3,112 feet (64.206.2: of Woollaston, 6.4.3) [{217b}] and along its banks Cissus, Woodwardia, Megala, Polygonum Rheoides, Mimosa arborea, Curculigo, Woodwardia, Andropogon fuscum, Conaria, Potentilla, Rumex, Rubia cordifolia, Drymaria, and Begonia occurred.
The ascent was steep, leading over several land slips, the same vegetation continuing. Oaks, Pines, Rhododendrons occupying the more exposed faces, and the usual humid jungle characterising aspects not so much exposed. Pinus longifolia strays down to within 100 feet of the nullah. We passed a pretty cascade discharging a considerable body of water: here at 200 feet [a/][{217a}] above the nullah, I observed Crotalaria juncea, the Betula of Thumathaya, Quercus lanatus, Leea crispa, Panax terebinthaceus, Indigofera, Scutellaria, Clematis, Cana, Panax altera, Mimosa, Porana, Arundo karka, Flemingia, Conyza, Aspidium macrosomum.
At 400 feet, [a/][{217a}] Itea macrophylla, Ficus, Composita arborea. The woods are dry, but little occurring underneath the trees, except the usual grasses, Andropogons and Airoides. At 500 feet, [a/][{217a}] Thibaudia myrtifolia, Triumfetta mollis, Composita penduliflora, Lysimachia, Pinus, Rhododendron. The ground now became excessively rocky, the road winding along at the same elevation, not more than a foot wide.
At 600 feet, [a/][{217a}] Desmodium vestilum, Artemisia, Acanthacea lurida, Gentiana, as before. Gordonia, Bambusa, Microphylla, Arum viviparum, Tussilaginoid, Wendlandia, Thibaudia, variegatoides, and a myrtifolia; Sedum, rocks strewn in every direction covered with Sedum and epiphylical orchideæ.
On rounding a ridge with a north-east aspect we came without altering our elevation, on a humid jungle. Pothos pinnatus and red, Ferns, Acanthaceæ, Choripetalum, Calamus, Acrostichea, Blakea, Grammitis decurrens, Moschosma. We descended through similar jungle with Pandanus also occurring until we again changed our aspect, when the oak woods, etc. reverted with Rhododendron and Thibaudia myrtifolia; again changing, we returned to an intermediate jungle, gradually assuming all the humid characters of those places passed before. Here I observed Tupistra, Asplenium nidus, at 200 feet above the bed of a nullah. Rottleria, Mimosa arborea, Crawfurdia, Speciosa, Zanthoxzlon triphyllum.
Along the bed of this nullah, Crawfurdia speciosa, Potentilla, Choripetalum, Eurya, Ranunculus, Cardamina, Juncus! Oxyspora, Saurauja hispida, occurred; some in a sort of marsh, with Thibaudia variegatoides. The places along which torrents formerly flowed were occupied by Typha elephantina, Kujara, Megala, Arunda, the Alnus of Bhailseeree, Artemisia major, Rubus deltoidifolia, (Corysanthera hispida with Juncus;) here Anthistiria arundinacea, Artemisia minor, Bucco grandis (Bird), Polygonum rheoides, Bæhmeria torrentum, Gaultheria deflexa, Indigofera, Oaks, Gordonia, Holcus elegans, Conaria nepalensis in flower, and Erythrina occurred along the bed, up which we proceeded about a mile.
We then ascended among Pines and Oaks, Callicarpa arborea, and others, ascending up the humid ravines, which in the rains give exit to torrents—at 300 feet noticed a different Pinus, which is observed in abundance on a mountain on the opposite side, up which it ascends 2 or 3,000 feet.
Callicarpa azurea, Buddleia Neemda, Eugenia, Serissoides, and the Saccharum of Churra, occurred here.
The ascent was continual but gradual, rounding the almost precipitous face of the hill, the path was stony, often loose and frequently not above a foot wide, with a precipice lowering above and yawning beneath. The vegetation had, with the exception of the Pines, Oaks, and Rhododendrons, all been burnt, so that the ascent was uninteresting. As we neared the summit it became bitterly cold, a strong biting wind nearly cutting us in two: we reached Bailfa, which is on the summit but sheltered, at 6 P.M.
Conaria occurs at the top! being more advanced in flower than below; in one instance with young capsules. I noticed Pogonatherum, Didymocarpus contortus, Serissoides, Gaultheria fruticosa, Polytrichum fuscum, gathered at 7,000 feet, previously: at 1,200-1,500 feet above the nullah, Indigofera reaches the top. In a sheltered place here I found a beautiful Gaultheria; a small Campanula occurs on the rocks at from 1,000 feet upwards.
BAILFA or Bulphai.—This place is 6,808 feet above the level of the sea, yet on the east and south are mountains towering far above it. Snow is said to fall in February, but sparingly—the hills around are bleak, thinly vegetated, except those on the south of the Geerea, which are more wooded. There are only a few houses. Turnips and barley are cultivated here, and in these fields may be found a Cruciferous annual, and probably a small species of Lamium. The chief cultivation is visible in the valleys below. Buckwheat is among the number.
January 29th.—To-day I sallied out a few hundred yards to the west, on turning over the ridge, the south side of which is so bleak, thinly covered with Q. lanata and Rhododendrons, I found myself in a thick shady jungle, the chief tree being a species of oak, widely different from Q. lanata. The trees and shrubs are loaded with mosses, especially pendulous Neckeræ, Daltoniæ, Hypne; Hookeria, Fissidens, etc. occurred on the ground. I imagine, I gathered twenty-five species of mosses here. Ferns were likewise abundant; I noticed Daphne papyracea, Berberis asiatica, Conyza nivea, Smilax ruscoides, Œschynanthus venosus, Hedera, Ophiopogon linearis, O. latifolius, Cymbidium viridiflorium, Ardisia crenata, Carex, Piper! Clematis, Gordonia, Spiræa decomposita, Composita volkamerifolia, Cissus, Smilax, Bambusa microphylla, Viburna, as before. Gaylussacia serrata and microphylla, the former in fruit. Thibaudia lanceolata, buxifolia, Gaultheria of yesterday.
On the exposed face Santalacea, Gentiana, Hypericum decussatum of Moflong, Leucas ciliata, Ischæmum pygmæum, on Rhododendron, Loranthus obovatus. The mosses of this side were Brachymenium, Tortula, Famaria, Trichostomum, Neckeræ, Polytrichum fuscum, Zygodon? Dendrobium and Otochilus, occur here. A stray and small Abies occurs on the ridge itself.
About the village of Bailfa, occur Urtica urens, Artemisia major, Saccharum aristatum, Rubus triphyllus, Senecio scandens, Rumex, Chickweed, Stemodia ruderailis, Lactucoidea murorum, Carduus, Phlomoides, Rubus deltoidifolies, Achyranthoid, densa.
January 30th.—Thermometer at 7 A.M. 40°. The houses here are roofed with split bamboos, and they are tied on by rattans, a precaution rendered necessary by the boisterous winds which prevail. The place is very cold; the thermometer varying from 40° to 52°; mean temperature of the day 46°.
In the barley fields I noticed Fumariæ sp., Potentilla and Cynoglossum. Erythrina ascends to this! Pyrus Malus and Spiræa bella occur.
January 31st.—Our march this day commenced with an ascent of a ridge lying to the north-east of our halting place, this occupied us some time, and at last we reached a pagoda, visible from Bailfa, and which is nearly 1,000 feet above that place. Thence we descended about a hundred feet, through a well-wooded situation. Emerging thence at about the same elevation, we crossed barren bleak downs; the ravines being alone wooded, and hence the woods had that rounded, defined appearance, so remarkable in some parts of the Khasya hills.
Thence the descent was continued to Roongdong, the march is an easy one, about seven miles.
The first new plant that occurred was an Allium on rocks, but it had been dried up by the fires which had bared the surface of the hill of every thing, except the trees and stouter shrubs, capable of resisting its action.
Toward the pagoda, on the summit of the ridge, Pendulous lichens were abundant, Epiphytes were common, consisting chiefly of Orchideæ, with the 2 Gay Lussacias, Rhododendron punctata, Hymenopogon parasiticus, Orthodon, Tussilaginoid, Alnus occurred at 7,300 feet. The other vegetation continued.
At 7,400 feet, a new Quercus appeared, this, which has in its young state, leaves much like those of the Holly, and may therefore be called Q. elicifolia! Andropogon, Viburnum cærulium, Neckera, Bambusa microphylla, Fragaria, Potentilla, Conyza nivea, Scabiosa Spiræa decomposita, Gillenioides, Smilax ruscoideus, Hyperica of Moflong, Campanula, Swertia, Dipsacus.
At 7,500 feet, Epilobium, Rosa, Vaccinium cyaneum! Rhododendron coccineum, Tetranthera.
At 7,800 feet, Abies pendulifolia, Hemiphragma.
At the pagoda, and about it, Grimmia was found on rocks, with the usual pendulous Neckeræ, Q. ilecifolia, Vibura, Hypericum.
Abies Brunoniana, a large solitary tree, with pendulous branches, Tetranthera, Laurineæ, Smilax gaultherifolia, Ilex, on the wooded side of the ridge. Ferns and mosses were abundant, Ilex! Daphne papyracea.
Eurya, Panax rhododendrifolia, Rhododendron arborea, minus et majus. The tree of Thumathaya foliis ad apicem ramorum aggregatis, petiolis colorat., Celastrinea Euryifolia, Tetranthera another species without leaves. In the more moist places a small Urticeæ, Lonicera as before, on the exposed side stunted Q. ilecifolia, Dipsacus, Gnaphalia, Vaccinium cyaneum, and Gramineæ, Hemiphragma, Potentilla, Campanula, Tussilaginoides. Long tailed grey monkeys.
The ridge we crossed, runs up into a bleak ridge on which are houses, and which cannot be under 9,500 feet high, about the descent through the wood, which did not extend many hundred yards. I noticed Galium, Valeriana, Crawfurdia fasciculata, Sphæropteris Betula corylifolia, Hypericum, Spiræa gillenioides, Rubus cordifolius, Senecio scandens, Juncus effusoideus, in wet places, Rhododendron majus, coming into flower, (flower white) Cerastium bacciferum, arborea, canescens, Cissus, Rubus moluccanus, Elæagnus, Rubus potentillifolia, Plantago, Ligustrum, Berberis pinnata and asiatica, which last is generally covered with lichens.
Xanthoxylum, Lilium giganteum! Polytrichium fuscescens, Trichostomum anielangioides, Pohlia, on walls and rocks, Adoxa! in wet places under banks, with a fleshy Urticea: about this was observed the brick-red and black bird. [{221}]
Along the naked ridge and on the downs, which had a most wintry appearance, and where it was bitterly cold, the Lycopodium of Surureem was found, also Vaccinium cyaneum, Gnaphalium, Pteris aquelina stunted, Hypericum of Moflong, Swertia stunted, Hemiphragma.
The defined woods are formed of oaks and stray Abies pendulifolia, Panax rhododendrifolia, Berberis asiatica, and B. pinnata.
Mespilus microphyllus, Rhododendron minus, and R. arborea, (Euphorbia, and Juncus on the swards.) Eurya, Gaultheria arborea, Stauntonia. From this ridge a village near Benka is visible, as well as a large stream, the Goomrea, and several villages. The one we now inhabit, being the best looking and occupying a deep valley, is surrounded with much terrace cultivation.
Descending still farther we left the downs, first coming into the scraggy woods of Oaks, Rhododendron, Quercus, chiefly Q. robur. About here we met abundance of people going to Hazoo from Kampo; they were accompanied with asses chiefly carrying burdens of one maund weight; few goats; one yak was seen of a black colour; a low compact animal, much resembling, except in the absence of a hump, the bison: it was not a handsome specimen. We also passed a village to the left, containing about twenty houses, here a Nai gooroo, or person of rank, resides, and here I also got fruit-bearing specimens of Abies pendula.
Noticed, as I descended, Pyrus, Cerasus, Magnoliacea, Gaultheria arborea and frutex, Pteris aquelina, Quercus sclerophylla of Bulphai, Viburnum cærulescens and angustifola! Rhododendron minus, Ilex! Aspid. nidus, Gordonia, Q. lanata, Woodwardia, Rubia albiflora, Gleichenia major, Pyrus indica. Then we came to a pretty temple built like a house, with a fine specimen of Cypress pendula, altitude of the place 7,000 feet. From this a fine view of Roondong is obtained.
Still descending a short distance came to another temple, with a dome of the ordinary form, and a large square terraced basement, and inscribed slabs in the recesses. Hence the ascent was very steep. Erythrinum, Buddleia! Indigofera! Spiræa bella, Artemisia major! Polygonum rheoides! Rubus deltoidens! Curculigo, Conaria nepalensis, Thalictrum majus! Asparagus, Jubrung! Oxalis corniculata, Clematis cana, Eurya ferruginea! Santalacea australas, Pyrus malus! Elæocarpus! Mæsa salicifolia. We then crossed a small torrent, and ascended about 100 feet to Roongdong; noticed Stemodia grandiflora! Spiræa bella, Conaria, Erythrium, Elæagnus spinosus, Salix? buds with velvet or woolly hairs, Martynia! Hedera! Citrus! Woodwardia.
The transitions of the flora were this day well shewn. The plants which indicated the greatest elevation are, Vaccinium, Abies Brunoniana, Saxifraga, or Adoxa, Q. ilecifolia, Rhododendron formosum, R. arboreum majus, Sphæropteris, Ilex, Eurya acuminata? Panax rhododendrofol., Berb. pinnata and B. asiatica, Mespilus, Microphylla, Juncus.
The occurrence of the Urticea at such elevation is curious, the proofs of the wonderful effects of humidity, and non-exposure were particularly shewn, between the exposed south face of the Bulphai mountain, and the north-east face which was wooded.
From scarcity of grass, horses were here seen to feed on boughs so high as to be obliged to stand on stones, to get at their food. They are likewise fed on maize and tares; the poultry is of a large brood. The cocks are atrociously noisy, two in particular had such lengthened, cracked or quavering voices, that they were quite a nuisance. We put up in the house of the Dumpa or head man. It is situated on the top of a stony, and a bitter cold place, exposed to the four winds of heaven. House very large, and our host a little man with great airs, and a red coat or wrapper of coarse English cloth, drinks intensely.
During our stay at this place he invited Pemberton and Blake to shoot pigeons; the poor man thought that they would not be able to hit them, on finding out his mistake, he put an end to the sport.
Atriplex is cultivated here, Mooreesa of Assam, Hempstee of the Booteas, though seeds are used as well as the leaves.
The loads of salt brought down by the Tibetans on asses are packed up neatly in coarse cloths, and weigh upwards of forty seers each.
February 1st.—Our march commenced by descending gradually at first, then very rapidly to the Dimree nuddee: crossing this at the junction of two streams, we ascended a little and then kept along the side of the ridge forming the right bank of the nuddee, until we came over the Monass: thence proceeding about one and a half mile, we reached Tassgong or Benka which is situated on this river, and about 1,000 feet above it. This we crossed by a suspension bridge.
But little interesting botany occurred to-day: Chenopodium sp. occurs in fields at Roongdong. The terrace cultivation here had just yielded a crop of rice, and was now planted with wheat. Agriculture would appear to be at a low ebb, and if the country is populous, the people must be half-starved.
Water was abundant throughout the route: the Monass is a large stream, but not generally very deep, although from its rapidity it must discharge even at this season a great body of water. Composita penduliflora descends to the Dimree, the altitude of which is about 3,000 feet, so in fact did most of the plants found about Roongdong. Pyrus continues half-way, Rhododendron to the bottom. Hovenia at an altitude of 5,000 feet, Randia—as also Tetranthera oleosa, and a new Flemingia.
At 4,900 feet, Jubrung occurs.—Clematis Cana, Luculiæ sp., Conyzoidea nivea, Kydia calycina, Mimosa arborea, began at 4,800 feet: Gaultheria, arborea, Gordonia, descend to the bottom: Crawfurdia speciosa, Oxyspora, Aspidium, Macrostomium, and Polypodioides, Saurauja hispida, Hypericum, Spiræa bella, Gillenioinis, Quercus, Rubus, and Viburnum cærulescens. A tree yielding lac, which had lately been cut, and Meliaceæ, Rhus triphyllum. Hence some snow was visible on a lofty ridge above our heads, at least 9,500 feet, the snow descending a considerable way down ravines. Of birds, Bulbuls and Bucco, were here observed.
At --- feet, Leguminosa arborea, Loranthus Scurrula, Kydia Wendlandia, Celtis, Osbeckia nepalensis, a Vitex, Grislea, Pteris aquilina, Indigofera! Acanthacea cærulea.
At --- feet, Triumfetta mollis, Composita arborea, Pterospermum, fructibus 10-valvibus, valvis lobatibus, Sem. alatis. Santalacea australasica, here a large shrub.
At the nullah, Fici sp., Saccharum Megala, Verbenacia? foliis apice craso lobatis. On the opposite side, Pinus longifolia, to within 200 feet of the nullah, Phlebochiton extensus! Solanum farinaceum! Achyranthes densa! a Plumbaginacea which is a Pæderioid Rubiacea, and another Ficus, Hastingsia, Bassia, Labiata Sudyensis, Grislea, very common, Emblica, Ficus obliquus were found along the road, after crossing the nullah. The ridge of the mountain was rocky, barren, covered chiefly with grasses, the Butea of Nurtung, Artemisia minor, Umbelliferæ, Desmodium vestilum, Kalanchœ, also occurred. At the few houses below our path, we saw plantains! and bamboos as well as mangoes! The terraces here are fronted with stones: Lemna occurred in water; Linaria on rocks; Conaria and a fleshy Euphorbia, this last, about villages.
The occurrence of plantains and mangoes here is curious, and a sure sign of mild climate, as Kalanchœ is of dryness; nothing could well exceed the barrenness of the road, from crossing Dumria to Benka.
Benka is a straggling place, built on a ridge overhanging the Monass, and on exceedingly rugged ground, the north face of the ridge being nearly equally steep; the southern face, contains about fifty houses, all of which are small and a few in ruins. The only large house is the Rajah’s, which is said to be of Chinese construction.
This day the Rajah paid us a visit; a tent was pitched for his reception on the open ground before our house, consisting of a small silken pall, with two high silken parti-coloured kunnauts. He arrived about eleven, preceded and succeeded by followers amounting to less than a hundred. On reaching the ground, he was carried or shuffled off his horse and deposited in the tent amid most terrific screechings. He took an immense time to arrange for our admission. We found him seated on a shabby throne, with a head priest, a coarse looking man, on his right, on a less elevated seat. Brass cups, etc. were arranged before him. Our chairs occupied the left; a present of fruits, onions, etc., the floor. The meeting was friendly, and he promised us coolies in two days. He is a youngish man with a square face, and was well dressed.
After we had taken leave, he feasted his attendants and the spectators with salt-fish and rice. He departed about 2 P.M. The procession was as follows, both going and returning—
A large, black, shaggy dog led by a chain.
A drum and drummer; a gong with a melodious sound; a clarionet played by an old and accomplished musician, rivalling in its strains that beautiful instrument the bagpipe; a man bearing a wooden painted slab on a pole, on this was an inscription; a banner looking like a composition of rags; a white flaglet; fifteen matchlockmen; fifteen bowmen; the Dompa of Roongdong; five horses and one mule led.
The household; Natchees; guitar; sundries. Personal attendants, looking like yeomen of the guard in red cloth dresses, variegated with yellow; the Rajah wearing a Chinese copper hat.
Lastly, the priests, of whom there were about six.
These were the best clothed and best mounted, and evinced satisfactory tokens of being corporeally well off. Their dress consisted of a sombre jacket with no sleeves, with either a yellow or red silk back, over this is a sombre scarf. They are great beggars, and the headman was well pleased with a present of four rupees. In return, he gave P. two, B. and myself each one paper of salt, similar to those given to the lookers-on.
The ponies were all poor, excepting two or three of the Rajah’s own, which were handsomely equipped; these had their tails raised on end, exactly like hobby-horses. In addition to this, each was supplied with supernumerary yâk tails, one on either side.
The whole people collected did not amount to more than 300. The arms, at least were wretched, consisted of culverins, which went off with an enormous report, and matchlocks with short rests, like the end of a pitchfork. The bows were long and good. The helmets were worn on the head when going and coming, but were allowed to sling on the back while resting here; they are rude iron things, like bowls, but covered for some way up the sides with cloth in a most unbecoming way. Dirt and noise were predominant; the dancing women, evidently not what they should be, had clean faces, but horridly dirty feet, and were very plain. The dancing was poor, consisting chiefly of ungraceful motions of the hands and forearms; the singing pleasing, harmonious but monotonous.
A peculiar kind of spirit called Chonghoons is in great requisition: this liquor is pleasant, perfectly clear like whiskey and water, with a small matter of malt in it.
Fumaria is found here much more advanced than that at Bulphai, Drymaria ovata. They cultivate one sort of Legume, perhaps more; mangoes, jacks and pomegranates; all these trees bear fruit towards the end of the hot weather. A young mango tree was observed with opposite leaves, uppermost pair one abortive nearly: thus the Mariam of Burma, may probably present the normal form of foliation. Adoee fish [{227}] found in the Monass.
Bheirs, papia, tobacco, banyan, of these last, poor specimens may be seen here. The place is miserably poor, and as it is reckoned one of some importance, its condition shows the barrenness of the country. The Rajah’s house is a large one, apparently consisting of a quadrangle with an elevated story. News arrived yesterday to the effect that tumults still prevailed: the Deb it was said had been deposed by treachery: that a new one had been permanently appointed: but that the usurper did not wish us to come on. Tongsa, however, said that after we have come so far, we should advance, and that we may settle our plans at his place.
February 5th.—Left: descended immediately from the town to the bridge over the Monass. The descent is steep but winding, the face of the hill being nearly precipitous. Close to the river we passed a small field of Cajanus, used for feeding the lac insect. The bridge is a suspension one, the chains, one on either side, being of iron in square links; the curve is considerable, in the form of the letter V, the sides being of mat. Hence it is difficult to cross, and this is increased by the bridge swinging about considerably: it is seventy yards in span, and about thirty above the Monass.
The Monass is 1,300 feet below Benka, it is a large river, the banks being about eighty yards apart, but this space is not generally filled with water. Its violence is extreme.
We continued along this river some time, gradually rising from its bed until we ascended nearly 1,000 feet. We continued at this elevation until we reached Nulka, to which place we descended a little. The whole march was through a barren, rocky, burnt-up country. The Monass was in sight nearly the whole distance. Passed two villages, both small, one on the right and one on the left bank of the river. No change in vegetation occurred except that we came upon pines, P. longifolia about a mile and a half from Nulka, coming into flower. I am almost inclined to think this is different from the Khasya species, Kurrimia, Indigofera pulchra, Desmodium, Buddleia sp., were the only plants of a novel nature that occurred. The hills are chiefly clothed with Andropogoneous grasses, very little cultivation was observed, but there seemed to be more on high hills to the east.
