CHAPTER XXII.
From Peshawur to Lahore.
October 14th.—Peshawur.—Cucurbitaceæ. The petals of cucurbita were observed in one instance united along two of the corollal sinuses to the staminal column, alternating with the smaller stamina; the processes were produced upwards into petaloid appendages.
17th.—Proceeded to Nowshera. As far as Pubbe the road extended chiefly through a cultivated country, thence as far as could be judged at night, over a plain country covered with coarse grass, and here and there (whenever a sufficiently gravelly surface occurred) among the thick of Bheir, which is here used for fences; Mudar, Ærua, Nerioides and Adhatoda occurred; Furas a common tree.
18th.—Reached Khairabad. The same kind of country as about Nowshera, stony or sandy, with extensive tracts covered with Bheir, Mudar, and Ærua as before, Mimosa common towards Geedur Gulli, and on it also Kureel, which appears for the first time as it was not seen about Jumrood. On to-day’s march many grasses are apparent, the pale Saccharoid grass of Jugdulluck common, a species of Cynodon (given to me by Dr. Ritchie at Dhukk) very common, a Pommereullioid, a curious Schœnanthus, a Poa, all are coarse and cover a large tract towards Geedur Gulli: Barleria spinosa appears.
Geedur Gulli is a ravine winding in and out in a curious manner among low hills at the north-west end of what is called the Afredi Spur. Mimosa very common, Kureel, Dodonæa and Edgeworthia, neither very common, but Moarcurra and Euonymus are both rather common. Mudar common; some Andropogons, of which one is the same as that of the Khyber. Bheir very common, also a Mimosa like the common Babool, but flowers unscented. Chokeys, or police stations are situated along the whole line of road to Peshawur. Adhatoda common at the entrance to Geedur Gulli where the scenery is rather pretty; Adiantum common on banks near the water; the hills of Geedur Gulli are rather thickly sprinkled with wood.
The Cabul river is here a large stream, with a moderate confined bed between high banks on which Akora and Khairabad are situated. The view of the Indus from Geedur Gulli presents a desolate look of sand, which extends over a large space visible through a break in the hills to the north. The passage of the Indus through the Attock range seen from the same point is curious; but general remarks on scenery can be of no use, except when they are founded on an intimate acquaintance with the country. The most natural course, i.e. one less impeded by mountains, would seem to be to the east instead of south.
Mulberry, Salix angustifolia, or willow, and Buckein, were seen at Attock. The scenery is not however bold, but on the contrary very poor compared with the defiles of the Irrawadi. The hills are low, rounded, and present no precipices of striking dimensions. An old fort situated near the junction of the rivers is a handsome looking building, but completely commanded. A large Serai or place for travellers is situated near it to the north. The water of the Indus is muddy, but presents nothing remarkable in temperature. The analogous points between the Indus and Irrawadi consist in defiles and the want of branches for a long way above their mouths. Jackdaws were the first old acquaintances I met with on entering Peshawur; and the common kite, the Affghan one not having the same thrilling cry that the Indian one has; grey partridges are found about Nowshera; as also Kuchaloo or Yams.
19th.—Proceeded over the plain to Chuch and Khot-bha, winding along the Attock hill round to the fort, and passing the Serai, and another smaller one in ruins near the plains, thence over level ground to within two miles of Bhowli, where conspicuous trees were observed, otherwise the plain is rather barren, a few Bheirs and some Phœnix only occurring about villages on hills. The vegetation is the same. Chuch plain, where not cultivated, is covered with short coarse grasses, Andropogoneæ. Among these a large-leaved Salvia occurs. The forms presented by the vegetation are however very little diversified. Mudar, a small-fruited Kochia, like that of Jallalabad; Bœrhaavia very common.
Cultivation is conducted in Bheir fences, and consists of Indian-corn, Bajra, and cotton.
From the Attock hills, the Indus is seen much divided by beds of sand, and churs or islands covered with a large purple Saccharum. Peganum continues to Attock and even extends beyond.
Water plants of Chuch, Trapa, Valisneria verticillata, and Nymphæa.
Shumshbad.—This town lies to the left of the road, one mile in the rear of my encampment.
The spines of Barleria are evidently axillary, as is seen in young branches, probably they represent the lower pair of leaves of the lateral branches, the terminal parts of which have a tendency to develop.
The spines of Mimosa belong evidently to the same exertion as the leaf; they are connate at the base, and from the centre of this hardened part, arises the leaf; they may be either the lower pinnæ, or they may be spurious stipulæ. The leaves developed within the true ones belong to an ill-developed branch. True stipulæ are leaves with a distinct origin. Spurious stipulæ belong to their leaves, as is evident from their not having a distinct origin.
20th.—Hussun Abdul. Until we came near the Boorhan valley, the road passed over a high, dry, sandy plain, with no cultivation, and no water, then the descent took place through picturesque raviny ground with a few isolated mounds, to a fine clear stream. The remaining part extended either along the cultivation of the Boorhan valley, or through similar raviny ground. Two streams were passed, the last is the Hussun Abdul river.
The vegetation of the high plain continues the same. Bheir, Mimosa, Kureel, Ærua, Mudar, Andropogoneæ, Pommereullia, Œgilops, Salvia, and Crotalaria aphylla.
Among the ravines and thence to Hussun Abdul, a new feature presents itself in the frequency of a largish Mimosa, probably that of the Khyber pass. This forms prettily wooded scenery, the white thorned Mimosa also occurs, Moacurra none, Euonymus, Bheir.
About Boorhan a Ficus becomes very common, Achyranthes, Kochia fructibus parvis, Salvia, Serratuloid of Ali-Baghan and Ichardeh. Paganum common—Adhatoda and Vitex. In scenery the country is pretty, particularly after passing the last river: a dampish spot was passed at Bhowli: a large Acacia, Melanoxylon and Pteris were found on the river banks. Dodonæa seen on low hills near Bhowli, as also Adiantum. Started at 5 hours 40 minutes and reached at 11.30; distance at least eighteen miles.
Hussun Abdul, is a pretty place, particularly the broken ground about the sacred stream, and the tank, in which Mahaseers abound; the water beautiful, many trees occur, especially Morus, Salix and Ficus.
Zyziphus is a fine tree here, Phœnix, Khuggur, Bukkein, Ficus, and Cupressus occur.
The jackdaw, mina, blue and chesnut kingfisher, a noisy bird. The small kingfisher, black and white kingfisher common: Myophonus, Pomatorrhinus.
21st.—The chief cultivation here is bajra, and Zea maize. The former produces a second crop from branches; hence it is left standing after the top spike, which is the largest, is picked; vegetation chiefly Indian, very few Affghan forms remaining, those of the hills are Mimosa, Adhatoda, and Euonymus.
The water plants are all decidedly tropical; no Epilobium seen since leaving Peshawar: Eclipta, Cyperaceæ.
Trichodesma, Cannabis.
Fish have few engaging habits, the tame Mahaseers take no notice of any one until food is thrown to them.
Tagetes, Sud Buruk, is a curious genus, on account of its simple tubular involucrum, very entire and pappus florets, conduplicate in æstivation, all florets fæminine are ligulate; are the folded up ones representations of the males?
22nd.—To Janika Sung, seventeen miles: the country continues much the same. The road passes out of Hussun Abdul over a low stony elevation, and enters another valley, the exit from which is through the Maha Gullah: a large Serai is passed about two and a half miles from the Boorgi; in the Gullah near this, is a portion of a formed road. Janika Sung is a small village, about five miles from the Boorgi.
The face of the country is undulated, intersected by ravines, rather thickly covered with the large Mimosa and Bheir: the same may be seen in every direction.
Affghan plants have nearly ended, Moacurra and Euonymus alone continuing. At the Maha Gullah a Carissa, and a Zaitoon, Ehretioides. This defile is picturesque, the wood prettily contrasted with bits of grassy ground. Adhatoda in abundance.
The Maha Gullah was formerly a notorious place for robbers, but is now quite safe, which says much for the Seikh rule.
There was not much cultivation passed to-day, although most of the surface is fit for it: water is near the surface. The Maha Gullah range is composed of limestone.
The white-spined Mimosa and crooked-spined one change places, the former occupies uncultivated plains, the latter stony, undulated, or hilly ground.
Carissa certainly represents Jasminum.
On the Kaliki Serai plain the chief plant is Mimosa albispina, then Bheir—here and there patches of Leguminosa, like the Cytisoides, so common in Affghanistan. In the Bheir thickets Schœnanthus is common; Andropogon and Pommereullioid also occur.
In the Hussun Abdul river there is a species of Perilampus approaching to Leuciscus, but with faint bars. In the sacred stream there is a small Cyprinoid, probably a Systomus, with a conspicuous spot on either side near the tail: there is also a small loach.
The Mahaseer in the water is a handsome fish, the edges of the scales being then blackish, as is also the longitudinal line.
It is curious that all plants hitherto found parasitical on roots, have no green leaves; to this, marked exceptions exists in Cuscuta and Cassytha, such true-leaved parasites being found only on the ascending axis; this rule is so permanent, that species of certain genera, such as Burmannia, the bulk of which are not parasitical, have no leaves. The mode of attachment of all parasitical plants is I think the same, otherwise I should suspect the above difference to point to a marked one in the nature of the fluid derived from the stock: thus leafless plants might be supposed to induce no particular change in the fluid they imbibe, while the others might be supposed to elaborate their own from that of the stock.
There is another very remarkable circumstance connected with the most typical leafless parasites, in their very frequent limitation to the genus Cissus, on which perhaps all Rafflesiaceæ and Cynomorieæ are exclusively found.
My chief reason for supposing Sarcocodon to be Monocotyledonous, or rather Endogenous, is the ternary division of its parts, and if my supposition be correct, it tends to establish, if indeed other ample evidence did not exist, the great permanence and consequent value of this numerical character.
And with respect to Sarcocoidalis I shall adopt the same opinion, if I find on enquiry that a binary number, and imperfection of the female as compared with the male, are more characteristic of Endogenous than of Exogenous growth. This same genus I consider in both these characters to allude to some analogy with one or more Acrogenous divisions.
The establishment of the order of Rhizanths, as well as that of Gymnosperms, I consider as a retrograde step in Botanical science. It is totally opposed to all sound principles of classification, and is a proof that, in the nineteenth century, arbitrary characters are still sought for, and when found are obstinately maintained.
Even in the arbitrary character, which is considered as destructive of all their other claims to ordinary vegetable rank, there is no unison whatever, for Rafflesiaceæ have ordinary ovula, while Sarcocoidalis very extraordinary.
The amount of testimony proving their analogy in germination to be with Acrogens, must be very strong before I am convinced that plants with perfect ovula as Rafflesia, etc. germinate from an indeterminate point, the existence of an aperture in the coats, points in the most marked manner to some part representing a radicle. With the exception perhaps of Sarcocoidalis, these plants differ in no respect whatever from other Phænogamous vegetables; we have instances of the same parasitical growth, and instances of the same apparent want of a radicle or homogeneousness of embryo, and in the structure of the parts of the flower there is tolerably absolute general identity.
It may be worthy of remark, as tending to prove the soundness of Mr. Brown’s views with regard to the affinity of Rafflesia with Aristolochia, that a certain large and fleshy flowered species of the latter genus has the same putrescent smelling flowers.
In Rhizantheæ, as proposed by Endlicher, we have an assemblage of discordant characters; we have plants associated, differing in the number of their parts; we have some of comparatively simple roots associated with others of decidedly complex organization; we have Rafflesia in which highly complex female parts exist, associated with Sarcocoidalis, in which these are very simple. But besides the objection of combining discrepancies on the strength of one agreement, the establishment of divisions upon such pretexts is objectionable in another point of view; viz., that of making a transition of structure on one point, instead of in several.
We might as well form into one division all the ternarily formed Dicotyledons, and into another all those Monocotyledonous plants with evident distinction between the calyx and corolla.
But in addition to reasons founded on structure, I have this theoretical one, that it is as requisite that Endogens should establish a similar relation with Acrogens; otherwise a gradation exists between the first and third classes, and none between the second and third, between which, gradations ought to be the more frequent.
As Rafflesia approaches Aristolochia, so does Sarcocodon, Taccaceæ.
23rd.—Rawil Pendi. The country continues much the same to within five or six miles of this place, viz. high raviny ground, well covered with Mimosa, Bheir, etc.
Thence to Pendi, the country is open, bare, and much cultivated. From high ground near Pendi a considerable tract is visible, consisting of low ridges running nearly due south, interrupted here and there, and apparently quite bare.
24th.—To Manikyala, distance nineteen miles, over an elevated country, with not much cultivation; broken ground occurs here and there, especially near the river Hoomook, now a small stream, the road winding through Mimosa jungle. Moacurra, Bheir, Euonymus.
At a place about three miles from Manikyala, are the remains of a Serai now in ruins. From this to Metope, the road extends over an open country capable of cultivation, but neglected. Water in wells is thirty feet perhaps below the surface: the country about Tope very bare of trees.
A curious low chain of sandstone rocks here occurs, and occasionally protrudes in places from below the soil, seldom rising above five feet and occasionally dilated into undulated tracts.
Drill husbandry, (i.e. seeds sown after the plough,) seems much in practice here. The late noise about improving pasture grasses has been made with little reference to the nature of an Indian climate, or the genius of the Indian people. Pasture grasses only excel in countries where there is no division of climate into hot, rainy, and cold seasons; but not in those in which rain is equally, or nearly so distributed throughout the year. So far as I know, no place in India is calculated for pasture grass cultivation, because as none of excellent kinds can succeed without irrigation, this element of Indian agriculture is applied to more profitable cultures, such as artificial grasses. In the cold season and the rains, nature supplies dhoob grass bountifully, leaving the natives to apply their agricultural labour to other objects, and in such seasons the condition of cattle is decidedly good.
Manikyala Tope, seen from near Rawil Pendi, is an insignificant building, and presents the same architecture as other topes, and as the Cabul tower, although it is not of the same materials. The lower part of the base is of pure sandstone, the upper of a stalactital conglomerate of small pebbles, often perforated. The terraces at the base are now almost hid by rubbish, so that the whole looks like an overgrown dome or a low mound. There are three stone ledges below, with flat pilasters between the middle and lower ledge on the sides. The dome is much damaged. The stones of which the building was erected, were not hewn inside, but I do not know whether they have not been cemented together. Access is easy to the top partly by means of broken steps, otherwise the stones gave good footing. The top of the ruin is now open and discloses a square funnel, penetrating half the height of building; thence modern handiwork has caused a broken irregular perforation. The building is not remarkable for great size, nor are any of the stones large, still as a piece of architecture it is far superior to any thing in modern Affghanistan. The country around is very bare and sufficiently open. It is curious that there are many Indian plants found on or about the building, all indicating a decided approach to Hindoostan. A Sida, Euonymus, Bheir, Lantana, and a Menispermum, are common shrubs on the building, also Solanum quercifolium, spinis albis floribus cœruleo purpureis.
25th.—To Puttiana, seventeen to eighteen miles; the country much the same, little wood but bushes of the old trees: it is tolerably open until Pukkee Serai is approached, when it becomes very much broken and intersected by ravines in every direction, showing most forcibly the action of water, many of the cliffs thus formed are picturesque. At Pukkee a small river is forded, thence to near Puttiana the country then becomes almost as raviny as before.
Ærua, Bheir, Mudar, a Kochia, much like one of the Cutch ones, and the before-mentioned plants continue.
26th.—To Bukriala, twenty-two miles. From Puttiana the road is good, extended over a high open country, except where it crosses two ravines; the first of these containing a stream of water, about ten miles from Puttiana. From Tammuch the road descends steeply into the Bukriala Kakhudd ravine, which takes you to Bukriala.
This ravine runs through a system of sandstone hills, of a blueish muddy aspect, and red clayey earth, often conglomerate. In colours not unlike the Bamean district. Water is plentiful in pools throughout the lower half of the road, which is all descent. Bukriala stands on the right bank of the Khudd river towards its mouth, the vegetation about this place resembles that of the open country, and is unchanged in the Khudd river, consisting of Kochia, Phulahi, and Mimosa albispina, Euonymus, Bheir, Adhatoda, Barleria, Kureel, and Capparis of Gundamuck; also Pommereullioid, Andropogon, Schœnanthus, Holcus, and Stipa of Kuta Sung, Carallunia, Grewia and Menispermum of Manikyala.
Also two plants not before seen, and neither common, one is a Butea, leguminous velutino pubescent arbor, it is the Chuchra of the natives, and is used for paper. The other is a curious, leafless, scandent, monocotyledon. Asparaginea, and an Apocynea.
Alhaji Maurorum is not found between this and Hussun Abdul, which is a curious thing.
27th.—To Rotas. The country to Mittian is very much broken and consequently difficult, consisting entirely of ups and downs: the road is only practicable for cattle; the bad part of it commences with an abrupt ascent. About Puttiana, four miles from Bukriala, it becomes better, but it continues partially raviny until within four miles of Rotas, when the country becomes open, and the road good.
Vegetation continues precisely the same, being still in the region of Phulahi: observed the Asparaginea again, Euonymus continues, also Astragalus, a Kochia, and an Affghan Chenopodium.
A beautiful bhowli or spring is passed on the way two miles from Rotas, it is covered with masonry, and the descent is by means of steps; the water passes under large arches, a work worthy of the Mogul emperors. Sissoo, Peroplocea of Bolan, common. Rotas is an immense irregular fortress, with the usual faults: it is much too large, and situated on a rocky plain partially commanded. It must have once contained a large number of inhabitants. Nelumbium, Potamogeton: half a mile from Rotas towards Peshawur, a square Serai, enclosing a garden, is passed.
The country immediately about it on the west is open: and well cultivated: there is but little water in the river. The town or village is of no size.
Butea not uncommon.
28th.—Proceeded to Jhilun. The road is at first steep, as it passes down along the Rotas river, about three miles from thence it is good, extending over a plain to the Jhilun. Fine cultivation observed on all sides, and of various sorts, chiefly Bajra and Kureel. Dhah abundant, but not arborescent, Euonymus, Peganum, Bheir, and Phulahi, the latter very dwarfish. Mimosa albispina and Adhatoda very common. The commonest tree in these countries is Bheir, and a very handsome tree it is; Nihi-joari cultivated.
Sun and Tel occur, the last is very common. Yesterday a new cultivation presented of a Composite plant, called Kalizeen, used as spice or musala for horses. The birds observed were Hæmatornis, Crateropod, Sylvia, Alauda cristata, Alauda alia in flocks.
The town of Jhilun stands immediately on the right bank of the river of that name, it is a large and flourishing place. The river is about 200 yards broad, not rapid, but here and there deep, and the bed at this place forms one undivided channel. The right bank on which the town stands has a stony sloping shore, the left is sandy.
It is a mistake to suppose that the hilly country ceases here, on the contrary, it crosses the Jhilun. At the ferry this river runs through a large valley, bounded to the west by hills like those to which we have been accustomed; to the east it is bounded by a low chain, which runs parallel with the general course of the river. The valley is open only to the north and south.
Otters, tortoises, and Mahaseer were seen in the river.
29th.—To Sera, twenty-four miles, half the distance extended over the uncultivated base of the hills, and then over the low range itself, from which at two points, fine views are obtained of the vast plain of the Punjab. Throughout this vast surface the vegetation is exactly the same—Euonymus continuing, Peganum and Phulahi forming chief vegetation; numbers of white partridge occur.
In the plains Dhah is found in profusion, especially where the cultivation is not extensive. A new Acacia appears, the Kikkur, forming groves about most of the villages. Noticed the Physaloides of Lundykhanah. Encamped under a fine Mimosa and Bheir near an old Serai which forms part of the village, with a splendid view of the Himalayas stretching away from east to west. It appears from this direction as if there was only one low range between the plains and the culminating range of the Himalayas. Nothing like these mountains has been seen in Khorassan. The chief cultivation about here is Nihi-joari, then Bajra—why is the former always bent?
Prickly pear common from where we crossed the Jhilun river.
A curious metamorphosis of Sesamum is of common occurrence: the calyx being unchanged, while the corolla preserves somewhat its shape, but is foliaceous, the other organs are much transformed, the ovary less so than the stamina, but generally much enlarged; ovules in leaves inside. This is worthy of examination, as it shows very plainly the origin of the stigmata from the placentæ.
30th.—Halted owing to having been robbed of two horses.
31st.—Wuzerabad, twenty-four miles. Ten miles from Wuzerabad the road extended through a highly cultivated country, and crossed the Chenab, on the left bank of which river Wuzerabad is situated. The Chenab is a fine river, the stream 150 yards wide, but on either side extensive beds of sand show that the river during some seasons is of great width.
Wuzerabad is a nice well built town, having a fine straight bazaar, with paved street. The chief gateways and residences built by General Avitabile.
Chilodia occurs in abundance, Eleusine sp., E. coracana; Bajra and Joari Nihi being the prevailing cultivation.
It is curious that in Phulahi major of Sera and the Kikkur, the young branches only are armed with thorns, so that the spines must be deciduous in certain species of Mimosa.
Cactus is an instance of a calyx composed of a congeries of adherent leaves, which leaves produce from their axilla, tufts of white hair and thorns; or is it not an instance of an axis hollowed out towards the apex, to the sides of which the ovary finally adheres, in this case the outermost series of the perianth will be calyx; one reason for adopting this supposition, besides the axillary bodies, is that there is no gradation between the small concave leaves of the calyx, and the outer series of the perianth.
November 1st.—Halted for fishing: Cyorinus Mrigala, is the Mhoori of these parts; it grows to a large size, is a handsome fish, and is indeed considered the king of fishes by the Punjabees. The intestines are in longitudinal folds of extremely small comparative diameter, and enormous length; in a large specimen it is twenty-three times the length of the body. The intestines of the Mahaseer are on the other hand only two and a quarter times the length of the body!
Of the fish obtained, two are Perilamps, here called Rohi,
5 or 6 Cyprinides,
4 or 5 Siluri,
2 Ophiocephali,
1 Esox.
Indeed I obtained a list of twenty-four species.
2nd.—To Goograuwala, twenty-four and a half miles, over a fine populous generally cultivated country. Goograuwala is a large town, having the streets paved with brick like those of Wuzerabad. Cactus very common; Kikkur (Mimosa) is the chief tree here about the Fukeer’s abodes. The Banyan also occurs.
Peganum and Kochia of Jallalabad continue. There is a fort of some size close to this town, built of mud; the ditch is unfinished, and not deep, it has a fau-se-braie, with bastions like those at Peshawur and Jumrood. The surface of the ground is much broken close up to it, the earth being taken away for bricks.
3rd.—Proceeded to Koori, an inconspicuous village, belonging to M. Court; it is surrounded by extensive plains, on which a tall grass occurs to a great extent. Distance twenty-eight and a half miles, the time taken for to-day’s journey was six and a quarter hours.
The country is precisely similar to that previously noticed, the only new feature being the grassy plains, in which at some little distance from Koori, deer, partridge, hares, etc. are said to abound.
A sissoo-like tree is not uncommon.
4th.—To Shah Durrah, twenty-three and a half miles at Nunzul, eight miles from Shah Durrah, a fort with ditch out of repair was passed, at Koori ten miles from Shah Durrah, passed a deep Nullah called Baghbuchah, with high banks, thence entered on a tract of country covered with Saccharum, (Moong), from which ropes are made; (this is the same as the Chuch species,) we next entered on cultivation close to Shah Durrah, which place is well wooded.
Mangoe trees, Ams, Eugenia Jambolana, Jams, Bheirs, Phœnix, Kikkur, and Ficus, are the principal trees.
The grassy tracts of the Punjab represent probably the original vegetation, existing now only here and there owing to the extension of cultivation.
From Shah Durrah Lahore is visible, particularly the buildings of the Mogul emperor’s, consisting of a conspicuous dome in ruins, and some minarets, a large Serai likewise going to ruin, standing in the immediate vicinity of the Royal Gardens, Lahore is decidedly a handsome looking city viewed from Shah Durrah.
So great is the tendency in palms to throw out roots towards the base, that these roots exist in the common Khujoor, although they have to get rid of the indurated bases of the petioles before they can make their exit. They are so extremely short and indurate that it is difficult to imagine the function they perform; at first they are capable probably of absorbing from the air.
5th.—Proceeded to General Court’s house at Lahore, distance six miles, the road after crossing the Ravee river near a royal summer house of no extraordinary merits, passes on to the town, and then winds round under the Simon Boorge, a very striking part, at least exteriorly of the city, for the buildings, works, etc. are in good repair. Besides this the ground outside is swardy and prettily wooded.