INDEX

Amhide, black, [58].
russet, [59].
Anatomy of the foot, [77], [80].
Ankle piece, [246].
Assembling, [126], [177].
Automobile leather, [225].
tanning of, [226].
Backs, [12].
Backstay, [2], [177], [247].
Back strap, [177].
Bal., [177].
Ball, [178].
Bating, [19].
Beading, [178].
Beamhouse process, [5].
Beating out, [178].
Bellows tongue, [178].
Belting, [62], [63], [178].
by-products, [69].
round, [69].
Belt-knife splits, [60].
Between substance, [178].
Bison, [59].
Blackball, [178].
Black box chrome side, [58].
Black hawk patent, [58].
Blacking the edge, [179].
Blocking, [179].
Bloom, [179].
Blucher, [179].
Boot, [180].
Bootee, [180].
Boris, [59].
Bottom, [1].
filling, [180].
scouring, [180].
Box calf, [55], [180].
toe, [181].
Boxing, [180].
Branded cowhide, [9].
Breaking the sole, [181].
Breast of the heel, [3].
Brogan, [181].
Bronko patent, [57].
Brushing, [181].
Buckskin, [181].
Buff, [181].
Buffing, [181].
Bull hides, [16].
Bunions, [84].
Button fly, [2].
Butts, [9].
Cable-nailing machine, invention of, [261].
Cack, [182].
Cadet kid, [56].
side, [57].
Calf leather, boarded, [40].
box, [40].
classes of, [40], [41].
cadet calf side, [57].
Dongola, [59].
dry hides, [40].
French, [40].
mat, [40].
Sheboygan, [59].
storm, [40].
suede, [40].
wax, [40].
Calf side leather, [57].
skins, [39], [182].
Calluses, [83].
Cambridge calf union splits, [60].
Cap, [182].
Carbarettas, [51], [181].
Carton, [182].
Cementing, [182].
Chamois, [182].
Channeling, [183].
Channel screwed, [183].
stitched, [183].
turning, [184].
Checking, [184].
Chemical tanning, [23], [24], [25].
Chrome flexible splits, [61].
tannage, [25], [26].
tanned embossed splits, [62].
Cleaning, inside, [184].
nails, [184].
shoes, [184].
Clicking, [184].
Closing, [184].
on, [184].
Colonial, [185].
Colorado steer hides, [9].
Colored box chrome side, [58].
Coltskin, [41], [185].
Combination last, [185].
Composition, [185].
Congress gaiter, [186].
Cordovan, [186].
Corns, [83], [84].
Counter, [124], [186].
pasted, [201].
Coupon tag, [187].
Cowhide, [187].
native, heavy and light, [7-9].
branded, [9].
Creasing vamp, [187].
Creedmore, [187].
Creole, [187].
Crimping, [188].
Cushion sole, [188].
Cut-off vamp, [188].
Dyeing, [188].
Dom Pedro, [188].
Dongola, [188].
calf, [59].
Dressing, [188].
Dry importation, [40], [41].
salted hides, [12], [32].
Edge setting, [188].
trimming, [188].
Enamel, [189].
Eyelet, [189].
Eyeletting, [189].
Facing, [189].
Factory system, first, [254].
Fair stitch, [189].
Faking, [189].
Fat liquored, [27].
Findings, [189].
Finishes of upper leather, [38].
Finishing of upper leather, [5].
Flap, [190].
Flesher, [18].
Flesh splits leather, [38], [60].
Flexible bends, [61].
splits, [61].
Follower, [190].
Foot, [77].
adult, [87].
anatomy of, [77], [78].
astragalus, [78].
calcaneum, [78].
characteristics of, [81].
cuneiform, [79].
flatfoot, [78].
measurements of, [95].
metatarsal, [79].
phalanges, [79].
rheumatism, [79].
structure of, [86].
Footwear, history of, [250].
Forepart finishing, [190].
Form, [190].
Foxed, [190].
Foxing, [2], [190].
Fresh hides, [7].
Frizzing, [191].
Front, [191].
Fudge-stitched, [133].
Fundamental shoe terms, [1].
Furniture leather, [225].
tanning of, [226].
Gaiter, [191].
congress, [186].
Gem insoles, [191].
Gemming, [191].
Glazed kid, [191].
Gloves, [218].
grain, [191].
tanning, [221].
Goatskin, [191].
Goodyear welt, [192].
difference between McKay and, [145].
Gore, [192].
Grades of leather, [7].
Grading, [192].
Grain leather, [38].
Green hides, [7].
Green salted, [12].
Gum counter, [247].
Half sole, [192].
Harness leather, [192].
Heel, [192].
breast of, [3].
finishing, [193].
lining, [193].
nailing, [194].
nailing machine, invention of, [262].
pad, [193].
scouring, [194].
seat, [194].
shaving, [194].
trimming, [194].
Hemlock leather, [29].
tanning, [29], [30], [194].
Hercules storm chrome, [59].
Hides, [4], [194].
bull, [10], [63].
classes of, [5], [6].
country, [10].
dry, [12], [32].
dry importation, [40], [41].
dry salted, [12], [32].
fresh, [7].
grades of, [7], [8], [9].
green, [7].
green salted, [12], [32].
imported, [32].
quality of, [6].
Inlay, [194].
Inner sole, [247].
Inseaming, [195].
Inseam trimming, [195].
Instep, [195].
Iron, [195].
Ironing uppers, [196].
Juliette, [196].
Kid, buckskin, [52].
buff, [52].
caster, [51].
chamois, [52].
characteristics of, [49].
Cordovan, [52].
dull, [49].
glazed, [49], [50].
importation of, [45].
kangaroo, [52], [196].
kangaroo kid side, [58].
kinds of finish, [49].
mat, [49], [50].
method of collecting, [46-48].
patent, [49].
process of tanning, [49].
seal grain, [52].
splits, [52].
suede, [51].
Kids, [41], [44], [196].
Kips, [5], [196].
Lace hook, [196].
stay, [2], [196].
Lacing, [197].
Lasting, [197].
Lasts, [97], [197].
combination, [185].
how made, [97].
Laying channel, [197].
Leather, [4].
automobile and furniture, [226].
belting, [62].
effect of cold, [53].
gloves, [218].
glove tanning, [221].
harness, [192].
hemlock, [29].
products, manufacture of, [218].
white, [54].
Leg cover, [198].
lining, [198].
Leveling, [197].
Lift, [197].
Lining, [197].
Lining-in, [198].
Lip, [190].
Loading leather, [198].
Mat royal chrome side, [58].
McKay shoe, [144], [198], [199].
difference between Goodyear welt and, [145].
difference between turned and, [152].
Middle sole, [199].
Mock welt, [199].
Molding, [199].
Monkey skin, [199].
Morocco, [199].
Mules, [199].
Nap, [199].
Native cowhides, [9].
steer hides, [9].
Naumkeaging, [199].
Nullifier, [200].
Oak-tanned leather, [28], [200].
Oak tanning, [28], [29].
Ohio buffs, [10].
Ooze gusset splits, [61].
leather, [200].
vamp splits, [62].
Ottawa, [59].
black and russet splits, [60].
Outer filler, [247].
Outside cutting, [200].
tap, [200].
Oxford, [200].
calf union splits, [60].
Packer hides, [201].
Packing, [201].
Pacs, [201].
Pancake, [201].
Para, [248].
Pasted leather, [201].
Patent leather, [41-43], [201].
black hawk, [58].
effect of cold on, [43].
objections to, [44].
Pattern, [201].
Pebble, [202].
Pegged shoemaking, [160].
Pegging, [202].
Perforating, [118].
Perforation, [202].
Pickled skins, [18].
Piping, [248].
Polish, [202].
Porpoise, [202].
Pressing, [202].
Pulling lasts, [202].
Pulling over, [202].
machine, [127].
Pump, [202].
sole, [202].
Quarter, [2], [203].
Rag counter, [248].
Rand, [203].
Rawhide products, [67].
Relasting, [203].
Remnants, [33].
sole leather, [33-37].
Repairing, [204].
Roan, [204].
Rolling, [204].
machine, invention of, [257].
Rough rounding, [204].
Royal kid, [56].
Royalties, [204].
Royalty system, invention of, [260].
Rubber, [228].
cloth manufacture, [244].
commercial grades of, [228].
drying, [232].
heels, [241].
shoe manufacture, [228].
calendering, [235].
cutting, [235].
varnishing, [237].
vulcanizing, [237].
washing, [231].
Russet calf, [204].
grain, [204].
Sabot, [204].
Sack lining, [204], [207].
Sandal, [205], [250].
Satin calf, [205].
Scouring breast, [205].
Screw fastened, [205].
Seal grain, [205].
Second lasting, [205].
Sewing machine, invention of, [257].
Shank, [1], [205].
burnishing, [206].
finishing, [206].
Shanking out, [206].
Sheboygan calf, [59].
Sheepskin, [206].
Sheep tanning, [16], [17].
Shoe, [103].
apprentice, [253].
case of, [109].
cutting room, [112].
departments of, [103].
dressing, [142].
factories, [103].
finishing, [138].
heeling, [140].
methods of manufacture, [103].
parts of, [1].
repairing, [167], [170].
sizes, [85], [207].
stitching, [119], [131].
treeing, [140].
Shoe Machinery Company, organization of, [270].
Shoemaker, first, in America, [251].
Shoemaking, [162].
old-fashioned, [162].
nail method, [161].
terms of, [177].
Shoe pegs, invention of, [257].
Shoulder, [196].
Sides, [206].
Side stay, [248].
Skins, [6], [207].
Skirting, [207].
Skiver, [18], [207].
Skiving machine, [117].
Slip, [207].
Slugging, [207].
Soaking process, [13], [19].
Soft tip, [207].
Sole, [11], [123], [208].
leather, [27], [28], [208].
laying, [208].
breaking of, [181].
Sorting, [208].
Spewing, [208].
Splits, [11], [60-62], [209].
Spring heel, [209].
Stamping, [209], [210].
Standard fastened, [210].
screw shoemaking, [160].
Stay, [209].
Staying, [210].
Steer hides, native, [9].
Stitch aloft, [210].
Stitch down, [210].
fair, [189].
separating, [210].
Stitching, rapid, [203].
Straight last, [210].
Stripping, [211].
Styles, how made, [93].
Suede, [211].
Tacking on, [211].
Tack pulling, [211].
Tampico, [211].
Tan, [211].
royal, [56].
Tanned leather adulterants, [75].
effects of perspiration, [71].
lubrication, [72].
properties, [70].
substitutes, [73], [74], [76].
weighing, [75].
Tannin, [21].
Tanning, [4], [21], [211].
chemical, [21].
hemlock, [29], [30].
leather for belting, [64], [65], [66].
oak, [28], [29].
processes of, [21].
rapid processes of, [25].
tawing, [21], [212].
Union, [30], [31].
vegetable, [21].
Tap, [211].
putting on, [202].
trimming, [212].
Tawing, [212].
Tempering, [212].
Tennis shoe manufacture, [239].
Texas steer hide, [9].
Tip, [2], [212].
cutting, [212].
Toe, and heel lasting, [212].
box, [181].
filler, [248].
lining, [248].
piece, [213].
Tongue, [2], [213].
Top, [1], [213].
cutting, [213].
facing, [213].
left, [213].
left scouring, [213].
left stitching, [213].
Treeing, [213].
Trimming counter, [213].
vamp, [213].
Turned shoe, characteristics of, [156].
difference between McKay and, [152].
history of, [158].
Turning, [214].
shoe, [151], [214].
Ungrained, [214].
Unhairing of hides, [15], [19].
Union-tanned leather, [30], [31].
Union tanning, [30], [31].
Upper, [1], [214].
Upper or dress leather, [37], [38], [55-57].
Vamp, [1], [214], [249].
creasing, [187].
cutting, [215].
form, [249].
short, [206].
Vamping, [215].
Vegetable tanning, [22].
tans, [22].
Vellum, [215].
Velour, [215].
Veneering, [215].
Vesting, [215].
Vici, [216].
Viscolizing, [216].
Vulcanizing, [243].
cold cure, [243].
steam cure, [243].
Wash leather, [216].
Waterproof black, [58].
Waxed threads, [164].
Web straps, [249].
Welts, [129], [216].
beating, [217].
Goodyear, [192].
Welting, [217].
White alum, [217].
Willow calf leather, [55].
Wooden case, [217].
Zulu, [59].