THE CITY OF RIO DE JANEIRO.
It cannot be said in this case, as in most others, that
“'Tis distance lends enchantment to the view;”—
for the nearer you approach this far-famed city, the more sensible are you to the beauties it unfolds. Strangers are always struck with the singularly picturesque appearance of the land approaching Rio de Janeiro, but once fairly in the bay they are bewildered at its great extent, surrounded on all sides by hills and mountains of every possible form, shape, and size, most of them clothed in luxuriant verdure to the summit. No picture or representation I have seen of the Bay of Rio does justice to the splendid panorama its scenery presents. Even those who have often approached it from the sea, so far from being tired of gazing, not only recognise old familiar points, but discover some new feature in the fairy-like landscape that had before escaped their notice. It varies very much according to the light and shade,—sunrise, noonday, and sunset each possessing peculiar marks of delighting beauty. In my former description of Rio occurs the following passage:—
The city of Rio Janeiro extends some three miles along the south-west side of the bay, and being much intersected by hills, it is difficult to get a good view of the whole range, unless from the top of one of the mountains near the city, such as the celebrated “Corcovado,” which stands out like a pulpit on the plain below, and is some 2,500 feet perpendicular. The view from this pulpit on a clear day is superb, and I should almost say unequalled in the world: the city, with its numerous divisions and suburbs below you—the bay, extending as far as the eye can reach, until lost in the plain below the Organ Mountain—the sea, studded with numerous picturesque islands, with vessels looking like white specks upon it, and seen to a great distance—all together form a most enchanting picture, and amply repay the toil of an ascent. The mountain is of granite rock, like all others in this country, but thickly wooded almost to the summit, and you come out quite suddenly on the bare point before alluded to, so much resembling a pulpit. In consequence of the tortuous formation of the streets, constructed round the base of the hills, it is difficult to get more than a bird's-eye view of the city, on ground made by encroachment on the sea; consequently, the streets are low, without drainage, and in several of the back ones the water collects and stagnates, to the great detriment of health and comfort. Rio itself is a bad copy of Lisbon—streets at right angles, a large square facing the sea, and the suburbs extending up the hills which everywhere meet your eye. In Lisbon the streets are tolerably wide, but here they have built them so miserably narrow, that scarcely even one carriage can pass through, much less pass each other; and it is evident that such vehicles were never contemplated in the original formation of these streets. The only way of getting over the difficulty is for carriages coming into the city to take one line of streets, and those leaving it another, which they do, excluding omnibuses altogether from the principal thoroughfares. Improvements in this way were what I found most backward; indeed there was a marked falling-off in such respect since I was last here, and there seems a great want of municipal government.[[2]] In many places the pavement is execrable, and generally very bad, the difficulty having been probably increased by laying down mains for water and gas, the latter now in process of execution, and also to heavy rains having washed away many parts of the road, and otherwise caused much damage. Once this troublesome job is got through, it is to be hoped that some effective measures will be taken to put the streets and branch roads in order; otherwise they will soon be rendered impassable. Coach and coach-spring making must be thriving trades here, especially with the immense increase that has taken place in the number of carriages and omnibuses; and it is really wonderful how they stand the continual shocks they have to endure.[[3]] Government seems at last alive to the absolute necessity of doing something to improve the sanitary condition of the city, and also its internal organization, as they have lately got out some good practical English engineers, who I have no doubt will suggest an effective mode of dealing with present difficulties. If they do not adopt decisive measures the rate of mortality may be expected to augment fearfully in a dense population of 300,000 to 400,000 inhabitants, huddled together in some 15,000 houses, surrounded by impurities of every kind, not the least being the stagnant water in the streets. No exact census has ever been taken of the population of Rio Janeiro, which is generally believed to be between the two figures above given. There is a migratory population, but the accumulation of humanity of every race and colour, contained in some of the large dwelling-houses, is something extraordinary. As before observed, nature has done much for this country, and if the natural facilities of Rio Janeiro were properly availed of, and local improvements carried out with energy and spirit, it might be rendered one of the finest and most luxuriant places within the tropics.[[4]] The opportunity is now open to them; the Government possess ample means, and it is just a question whether measures of progress are to be effectively achieved, or the city to be abandoned to its fate. The great evil attending all improvement in Brazil is an undue appreciation of native capability and a disparagement or mistrust of those whose practical experience would enable them to grapple with the difficulties that surround them—a kind of little jealousy or distrust that prevents their availing themselves of opportunities thrown in their way to carry out undertakings necessary to the well-being of the country: nor can they understand the principle on which such things are regulated in England, still less the magnitude of operations carried on there and in many other parts of Europe. Yet the time seems to be coming when these principles will be better understood here, and when the application of English capital towards the improvement of the country may be safely and legitimately brought to bear.
I quote this in order to point out the increase of population and improvements which have been carried out in the city since it was written, and amongst which may be enumerated:—
The paving of streets, drainage works, &c.
Lighting the city with gas.
Increased number of omnibuses, private carriages, and conveyances of all kinds.
Public gardens and ornamental squares.
Railways and tramways.
First, as regards the number of inhabitants, it is difficult to arrive at correct figures in the absence of a census, but according to the municipal authorities, the population of Rio and the suburbs (which comprise a circuit of many miles) is now about 600,000. If building be any criterion, the increase of population must be very considerable. Since the period to which I allude, the city has extended itself in every possible direction, for without actually climbing the mountains there is a limit to building ground. The new streets are wide, and many of the new buildings exhibit a beautiful style of architecture, very suitable to the climate, especially in the suburbs. The number of shops has largely increased, and they are generally nicely decorated. Some public markets have been built, such as the Gloria, Harmonia, &c. Property has also greatly risen in value, and fabulous prices have been paid for land in the city favourably situated. The paving of the streets has also been carried out most efficiently. All the leading thoroughfares in and out of the city are now well paved, and in this respect the road from the Public Gardens to Bota Fogo would compare advantageously with any in Europe, that portion passing through the Cattete being a perfect specimen of good paving. As to the drainage works, they speak for themselves to those who recollect what Rio was twenty years back, and the names of Brassey and Gotto will long be remembered as public benefactors in this part of the world. I had not time to examine these great works in detail, but shall avail of an opportunity on my return to do so. Gas has been most successfully introduced, both as regards quantity, quality, and usefulness, and it must have been an enormous saving of trouble and expense in a country where so many lights are required, and which was formerly dependent on oil lamps and candles. Not only is the city well lighted, but every suburb, miles in extent, thereby greatly adding to comfort and security. Under these circumstances it will hardly be a matter of surprise that the gas company pays a very good dividend. It has rather a curious effect on some of the country roads to see gas lamps peeping out from the thick foliage of tropical plants, as if in competition with the fire-flies dancing about.
Rio positively swarms with omnibuses, carriages, and Tilburys. The former are plain enough in appearance, but are drawn by four mules at a good speed. The carriages, which are manufactured on the spot, are generally very superior in quality, with a couple of mules or horses, and the Tilbury is a kind of cab with cover, to hold one person with the driver. The fares, considering the distances traversed, are on the whole moderate, although charges in this respect are complained of. The Public Gardens have been very much improved since I was last here, and under the shade of the trees it is very pleasant to sit and admire the beauty of the scenery presented by the surrounding hills, and the view of the bay in front, the busy city shutout, and everything in quiet repose save the rumble of carriages passing along the streets. Another public garden has been established in the square called Praça da Constituiçao, where there is a fine statue of the first Emperor Dom Pedro proclaiming the independence of the Empire. A still larger square, called the Campo de Santa Anna, might advantageously be converted to a similar purpose, and would form probably the most extensive area of this kind in the world, affording shade and shelter from the rays of the sun to thousands of citizens who have to cross it. At present, near the public fountains, it is occupied by laundresses, and in certain spots rubbish is thrown, but other parts are being planted, especially near the Senate House, the War Office, and those of Public Works and Foreign Affairs, the Museum and the new Mint, the latter one of the finest buildings in Rio. The municipal taxes are few, and it is not easy to find a surplus to be employed in ornamental works. As regards the railways, I must reserve my notice of them till my return from the Plate, as at present my sojourn in the Empire is limited to a couple of days in the capital.
The terrible ravages of the cholera in the River Plate brought me back to Rio de Janeiro sooner than I had contemplated, as there was nothing whatever to be done down there under such circumstances. At one period both town and country places were threatened with absolute decimation, and the daily tales of horror exceeded almost anything on record. In many cases, when no one could be found to bury the dead inside ranchos, or cottages, they were set fire to as the only way of disposing of the bodies therein. In the Province of Buenos Ayres alone the loss of life is computed at 25,000, and other provinces suffered almost in an equal ratio, so that the actual loss of life and property in the Argentine Republic must have been something enormous. In the Banda Oriental the losses were severe, and at one time the mortality at Monte Video itself was almost as great as at Buenos Ayres. Farms were in many cases abandoned, and sheep and cattle left to roam at large; crops rotted in the ground, growers of fruits and vegetables were ruined, the markets for these products being closed, and their entrance into the town prohibited. In fact it appeared as if the destroying angel was passing over the devoted land; nor do I believe, from all I could learn on the spot, that cholera was the only form of disease. It rather resembled the fearful destruction of the Israelites, when Moses and Aaron “stood between the living and the dead.” How soon, however, such fearful visitations are forgotten. Except from the general appearance of mourning when I returned to the River Plate about three months later, and the crowded state of the cemeteries, no one could imagine that Buenos Ayres and Monte Video had gone through such a fearful ordeal. Everything went on as usual, and people looked after their farms and their merchandise as if nothing had happened, though doubtless many feared the return of the hot season, before which very little will have been done in the way of sanatary precaution. That the cholera will become a permanent visitor in the River Plate seems unlikely, if we are to judge from its erratic course in other parts of the world, but no one can say that the scourge will not prevail until the cities and towns are effectively sewered and drained. The climate itself is healthy enough, but then this is no safeguard against epidemics, which have their origin in impurities allowed to accumulate until cities become pest-houses.
On my return from the River Plate, in the beginning of February, I availed myself of the opportunity to ramble about the city and suburbs, to visit old friends, and to go over the railways, an account of which will be found under its proper head. The weather was still very hot, with frequent heavy thunder storms, some terrifically grand—more so than I ever remember during a two years' residence here. From my room window, at the Hotel dos Estrangeiros, I could see the whole heavens lighted up with frequent flashes, and now and again portions of the bay and of the mountains stood out as if from a sea of fire. Then the awful crash of the thunder, followed by instant and utter darkness, and with reverberations shaking the house to its foundations, all combined to heighten the grandeur and sublimity of the scene. As for sleeping in the midst of such turmoil, it was simply impossible.
Both February and March were very wet, stormy months, and on one occasion some large trees were blown down about the city, and much damage done to the roofs of houses, many of which are not very well protected from such visitations. Similar weather followed me to San Paulo, but on my return to Rio, after again visiting the River Plate, the weather was delightfully cool, fine, and pleasant, equal to the most agreeable portion of our summer weather in Europe. There is no doubt the climate of Rio de Janeiro is a healthy one, and it is a striking fact that scarcely any cases of epidemic have occurred since the sewerage of the city was completed, nor any visitation of cholera, notwithstanding sick and wounded were constantly arriving from the seat of war, and that the quarantine was merely nominal. I am convinced the very thunder storms to which I have alluded tend to purify the atmosphere. The deluges of rain of course exercise a great cleansing power, and it has been noticed in years when thunder storms did not prevail that much sickness followed. One requires to go closely over the city before he finds out improvements which have been effected in Rio, which are nowhere so palpable as when passing through the great public thoroughfares. With such a number of narrow intersecting streets, no adequate idea of the size or extent of the city can be formed until some of the hills about it are ascended, such as that of Santa Theresa. It is, however, from the top of the Corcovado that its dimensions are most striking, from whence also the spectator can form a fair notion of the extent of the bay.
I have before remarked on the defective state of the landing-places, that most used, near the custom-house, being a very dirty, dilapidated wooden jetty, about which the rabble of the city seems to collect, and it is always a scene of much uproar and confusion. There is quite a Babel among the boatmen and their black hangers-on. There are some other landing-places, with stone steps, in front of the large square, whence the ferry-boats across the bay take their departure, but these are not very convenient, and the untidy state of the public market which stands here is a disgrace to the municipality. Indeed nothing can be more derogatory to a large city like Rio de Janeiro, possessing the finest harbour in the world, than such landing places, which create a most unfavourable impression on strangers. The Custom-house, with its wharves and warehouse, the Marine Arsenal and Building-yard, together with the private wharves, occupy a large portion of the water frontage, but there is still sufficient space left, if it were properly laid out, as I believe is intended before very long, for decent landing-places for the public. Speaking of the Custom-house, the source from whence a large portion of the revenue of the country is derived, it is an unsightly building, though immense sums of money have been spent, and are still being spent, in order to obtain adequate accommodation for the increasing trade of the port. Hydraulic lifts and machinery of every possible kind are in course of erection, and a few years will doubtless see the Rio Custom-house take its stand as the finest building of the sort in South America. The old Praça do Commercio, or Exchange, with its dismal vaulted roof, remains unchanged since my last visit, but when the Custom-house is completed I believe it is intended to construct an exchange more worthy of the place, with suitable accommodation attached. This, as well as a foreigners' club, is much required at Rio, where the foreign population is numerous and influential, and ought to be represented in a manner consistent with its importance.
When I lived here in the years 1848 and 1849, there was much sociability,—amongst the English residents at all events—but this appears to have quite died out, and even ceremonial visits are now rarely exchanged. The only society worthy of the name existing in Rio is that associated with the diplomatic circle, which is of course more or less exclusive in its character. I must nevertheless notice one institution in which I found a great change for the better. I mean the English Church. A good deal of money has been spent in connection with this edifice, entirely raised by private subscriptions, and certainly it has been well spent. The recess built out for the communion table is very pretty, and the organ is well placed, in a line with the body of the church. There is a good choir, the whole arrangements being very complete, and the service efficiently performed. The Rev. Mr. Preston is chaplain.
Whilst in Rio, I went to the Palace of Sao Christovao, and had the honour of being presented to the Emperor, whom I was glad to see looking well, but thinner than when I last saw him, fifteen years since. The Palace is well situated, on a rising ground, with a good prospect, and appears to be comfortable enough, but without any gorgeous display. The Court is very simple in its habits, and the democratic tendencies of the people render access to it comparatively easy.
With regard to politics, the Government has generally an opposition party to contend with, both in the Chamber and in the Senate, but without impeding the regular proceedings of these bodies, which, on the whole, are conducted with great decorum, and the speeches are very fully and fairly reported,[[5]] occupying whole pages of the daily papers. The Jornal do Commercio still stands pre-eminent in the Rio press—as the Times, in fact, of the Brazilian Empire.
The political discussions in the press, which are perfectly free, are often pursued with considerable acrimony. At the same time there is a degree of reticence observable which some of our newspaper writers would do well to imitate. Brazil does not lack parliamentary orators or able statesmen, but public business is trammelled with too much of red tapery as at home. The current of popular feeling does not run very deep from the fact that the bulk of the community are too much absorbed in their business occupations to leave them much time for political discussions, to which a large portion of Englishmen devote themselves because they have little else to do. It must not, however, be inferred from this remark that Brazilians are indifferent to what passes inside the walls of the Senate or of the Chamber. The support the Government has received in carrying on a long and costly war proves that the honour and well-being of the Empire is as dear to them as to the most patriotic people.
I am glad to have to record the abolition of passports in Brazil unless specially asked for. I had occasion to notice the inconvenience caused on a late trip to the River Plate, and it is gratifying to see that Brazilian statesmen appreciate the march of events in this respect, as I trust will also soon be the case in facilitating the despatch of passengers' luggage. As a rule, passengers do not carry with them articles subject to duty, though, of course, a surveillance in this matter is quite necessary. At Buenos Ayres there is a custom station on the mole or landing place where passengers can bring their luggage, which is at once examined and passed, thus saving much time and trouble. The Post-office is on the whole pretty well managed and letters are promptly delivered on arrival of the mails. The building is, however, quite unsuited to the requirements of so large a city as Rio de Janeiro, and I learn that it is intended to erect a fine new post-office in a square facing the Bay, which will be a great convenience to the public.
I found the population on the opposite side of the bay had not increased as much as I expected, although the facility of crossing by the large American ferry steamers is a great convenience. Nitherohy is a large straggling place, supposed to contain a population of about 20,000, but there are many houses uninhabited, nor do the Rio people show much partiality for a residence there even at a much less rent. Some handsome villas have been built there, and it is intended to light the place with gas, which would be a decided advantage to the residents. Some of the islands in the upper parts of the bay are now cultivated and inhabited, and numerous small craft ply between them and Rio de Janeiro, bringing down fruits and vegetables.
In the appendix to this volume will be found sundry official documents and statistical information in reference to the resources and commerce of Brazil. The institutions of the Empire are very favourable to mercantile development, and the great progress made within the past half century is indicative of a highly prosperous future.
[2]. The Bank, Exchange, Custom House, and Arsenal (of late years greatly extended) are in the Rua Direita. Besides these, the chief public edifices and the Imperial Palace, a plain brick building; the Old Palace, on the shore, used for public offices; a public hospital, alluded to elsewhere, erected in 1841; a national library, with 800,000 printed volumes, and many valuable MSS.; and a well-supported opera house, which has supplied Europe with some very popular performers, especially in the ballet line, as witness that general favourite, Madame Celeste, who came from Rio, in 1830, with her sister Constance, another danseuse, and appeared for the first time in England at Liverpool, in the divertissement in Masaniello, Sinclair being Auber's hero. The educational establishments are the Imperial College of Don Pedro II.; the College of St. Jose; Schools of Medicine and Surgery; Military and Naval Academy; and many public schools. It has also many scientific institutions; a museum rich in Ornithology, Entomology, and Mineralogy; and a fine botanic garden. Of churches there are upwards of fifty, not of much external elegance, but most sumptuously decorated in the interior.
[3]. The inhabitants of Rio Janeiro are fond of carriages, but the specimens generally seen would hardly do for Hyde Park, being chiefly old-fashioned coaches, drawn by four scraggy mules, with a black coachman on the box, and a postillion in jack-boots on the leaders, sitting well back, and with his feet stuck out beyond the mule's shoulders. The liveries are generally gorgeous enough, and there is no lack of gold lace on the cocked hats and coats; but a black slave does not enter into the spirit of the thing, and one footman will have his hat cocked athwartships, the other fore and aft; one will have shoes and stockings with his toes peeping through, the other will dispense with them altogether. But the old peer rolls on unconscious, and I dare say the whole thing is pronounced a neat turn out. The Brazilians are great snuff-takers, and always offer their box, if the visitor is a welcome guest. It is etiquette to take the offered pinch with the left hand. Rapé is the Portuguese for snuff, hence our word Rappee. They do not smoke much. The opera was good, the house very large, tolerably lighted, but not so thickly attended as it might be. The ladies look better by candle light, their great failing being in their complexions, the tint of which may be exactly described by the midshipman's simile of snuff and butter. The orchestra was good, many of the performers being blacks or mulattos, who are excellent musicians. The African race seem to like music and generally have a pretty good ear. Both men and women often whistle well, and I have heard the washerwomen at their work whistling polkas with great correctness. I was amused one evening on going out of the opera when it was half over: offering my ticket to a decent-looking man, he bowed, but refused it, saying that men with jackets were not allowed in the house.—Elves.
[4]. The population of Rio, on the arrival of the royal family, did not amount to 50,000, but afterwards rapidly augmented; so that in 1815, when declared independent, the number had nearly doubled, and now is estimated at about 400,000 with the suburbs and the provincial capital of Nitherohy, on the opposite shore of the Bay. This increase is partly to be ascribed to the afflux of Portuguese, who have at different times left their country in consequence of the civil commotions which have disturbed its peace, as well as of English, French, Dutch, German, and Italians, who, after the opening of the port, settled here, some as merchants, others as mechanics, and have contributed largely to its wealth and importance. These accessions of Europeans have affected a great change in the character of the population, for at the commencement of the century, and for many years afterwards, the blacks and coloured persons far exceeded the whites, whereas now they are reduced to less than half the inhabitants. In the aggregate population of the empire, however, the coloured portion is still supposed to be treble the white.
[5]. The difference between reporting proceedings of the Brazilian and English legislatures is that the latter appear daily, whilst it takes many days before speeches in the Brazilian Chambers are published, and frequently a large double sheet is issued to make up for arrears.