TRIP ON THE CENTRAL ARGENTINE RAILWAY.
I am writing this on board the “Lujan” steamer, built in Buenos Ayres, with engines by a Glasgow house. She is a comfortable boat, with good accommodation for passengers, and the “vivers” excellent, including even champagne at dinner, which in this country is rather an expensive luxury. After a lapse of fifteen years I find myself once more ascending the noble Parana river, which at that time was almost unknown in Buenos Ayres, the little “Argentine” being the first commercial steamer that ever navigated its waters. I predicted the results a few years would bring about, and my expectations have been more than realised, the river being now as freely navigated by steamers as some of those in the United States, with the difference of course that there is not the same amount of population on its banks—population being still the great want of this boundless region.
The station for passengers for the up-river boats is now the terminus of the Northern Railway, at a small stream called Tigre, which is reached in something over an hour's time. We left the station at 10 a.m., and arrived at the wharf alongside which the steamer lay at 11.30. All the passengers, with their luggage, were soon on board, and we started, wending our way through the small branches of the Parana, in many places not wider than a canal, the steamer brushing against the overhanging trees. A couple of hours brought us at last into the wide embouchure of the river at a point named Palmas.
The advantage of the Tigre as a starting point for steamers is that it avoids the disagreeable boating in the roads of Buenos Ayres and crossing the bay for Martin Garcia; in every way it is a desirable arrangement, alike beneficial to the steamers and to the railway. Upwards of a dozen steamers were laying outside the Tigre, in a stream called Lujan (after which this boat is named), two of them large double-decked Yankee river boats and nearly all of them without occupation—a terrible sacrifice of valuable property. Having discussed a solid dejeuner à la fourchette, I came on deck to enjoy the scenery. It was blowing a fresh breeze, dead against us, with a strong current and very cold, cloaks and great coats being a necessity although the day was bright and sunny. For several hours we steamed along, passing only jungle and dense masses of trees, with numerous sailing craft at anchor, laden with cargo, many bound upwards, no doubt with stores for the army in Paraguay.
Just before sunset we passed a very fine quinta, belonging to the Minister of Education, Senor Costa, built on a beautiful barranca, or elevated ground, a short way from the river, the horsemen on the heights presenting a very picturesque appearance.
Dinner was announced, which occupied fully an hour, and afterwards I went on deck and enjoyed a night on the noble Parana. The wind had gone down, and the stars shed their light over the still water, on which the shadow of the trees was reflected, our course being occasionally close to them, though at times we had to take the mid stream. Now and again the sky was lighted up with fires, caused, I believe, by the burning of wood for charcoal, a process which might go on for centuries without exhausting the illimitable extent of wood. A large traffic is carried on in this material by river craft to Buenos Ayres and Monte Video. We stopped to land passengers at a station called Hermanos, and soon after passed two or three steamers at anchor, with some sailing vessels near them, no doubt connected with the war services. Our passengers are a motley group, speaking all languages, and amusing themselves by playing cards, chess, and dominoes, the while talking and chattering away at the top of their voices; some ladies amongst them as merry as the rest. Many Italians, French, and Germans are met on board these steamers, but comparatively few English, who remain more in the cities and towns, or at their estancias when resident in the country. After a fine, clear, starlight night, the latter part aided by a bright moon, the day broke grandly, and we soon came to anchor at the little port of San Nicolas, where we landed and took in some passengers. Then came a good, substantial breakfast, and at about eleven o'clock the large saladeros near Rosario were in sight. We brought up alongside a coal hulk, where the steamer had to take in fuel before returning to Buenos Ayres the same afternoon.
A number of sailing vessels and steamers were laying at anchor at Rosario, making quite a busy scene. I landed in a small punt to find my way to the house of a friend. The aspect of Rosario was not much changed, looking at it from the river, with the towers of the church in the background, the town itself being more or less concealed by the high barranca. On entering it, however, I was quite lost. Streets have been extended in every direction for more than a mile, and I should say it has doubled or trebled in size and population since I was here. Whatever prejudicial effects the Paraguayan war may have produced in other respects, there can be no question that Rosario has largely benefitted, the place being one of call for steamers and sailing vessels up and down; and it also supplies a considerable quantity of stores for the army. The value of land and property has gone up to a high figure, and the poorer portion of the population are obliged to squat wherever they can find room to build a rancho, or kind of mud hut. Gauchos galloping about in their picturesque costume showed that we were in a new province, and although civilisation has extended itself here somewhat after the fashion of Buenos Ayres, there are evident signs that it is intermingled with much of the wild habits of a life in the Pampas.
The great object of my visit here was of course to see the Central Argentine Railway, and certainly those accustomed to the imposing appearance of railway stations at home will hardly be impressed with the rough and ready wildness of the scene which presents itself here. A few disjointed wooden sheds in an open plain, one side bordering on the river, some carriages and covered waggons on the rails, at this time constitutes the terminus of a line already carried 158 miles into the interior; but all this is merely temporary and will give place to the permanent station now in process of formation, and upon which hundreds of labourers are at present constantly at work. The material is all there in readiness, and the station would have been much further advanced had it not been for the cholera, which caused such terrible devastations here a few months ago. Internal commotions have also tended to retard progress. Happily these scourges are for the time at least passed away, and it is to be hoped nothing will again interfere to prevent the completion of a line of such vital interest in connection with the material development of the country between Rosario and Cordova.
I was curious to see the first arrival and starting of the trains, which did not indicate much traffic; but this can hardly be looked for until the metals are carried through and the railway possesses all the needful appliances, not to speak of the prejudices of a people who have been accustomed to gallop over the wide plains like the Arabs of old, and use those antique structures drawn by bullocks, which are yet destined to be abandoned to rot in their final resting place, or be removed further west to bring traffic to the Cordova station. Engineeringly speaking, it is the easiest possible task to make a railway through such a country as this, but other drawbacks and difficulties exist in the absence of population and of conveniences to which we are accustomed in England. It is a refreshing sight in Rosario to see so large a mixture of the foreign element. New banks and large establishments are in operation and Estanceiros constantly coming into town to transact their business. Among the visitors at Rosario are many Englishmen from the districts round about, who have not been murdered by the Indians, notwithstanding the stories prevalent to that effect, and I hear of numerous thriving colonies in the neighbourhood, which I regret time will not permit my visiting, as the extent of my ramble must now be confined to going over the railway. I repeat that my impression as to the future of Rosario, after all it has lately gone through, is favourable, and I am perfectly satisfied of the go-a-head nature of every thing in this prosperous province.
The train for Rosario starts at 8 a.m., and is due at Villa Nueva, a distance of 158 miles, at 6 p.m., travelling at an average speed of nearly sixteen miles an hour, including eight stoppages—quite sufficient for present purposes, with a train composed of waggons and two American passenger cars, one for first and the other for second class. We got off a little after eight o'clock with a good long train and the cars were pretty well filled. For the first two or three stations the ground is slightly undulating, covered with good pasture, on which numerous herds of cattle, flocks of sheep, and horses were feeding; afterwards, or about half-way between Rosario and Villa Nueva, there are few cattle seen, though the food for them is there in any quantity. At Roldan, the first station from Rosario, some tents were erected, and horses collected, in course of training for the races to be held on Monday next, the 25th of May, at which there is generally a large gathering of sporting characters from that and other districts, as also of spectators from Rosario. It is an English club, with the usual array of stewards, umpires, &c. The meeting is expected to be a very good one. The next station is Carcaranal, near which the river is crossed by a handsome iron bridge, the river itself flowing for a very long distance through the province of Cordova and Santa Fé, ultimately merging its waters with those of the Parana. These first two stations are mere mud huts, being only temporary, but Carcaranal has the additional disadvantage of being placed in the midst of a black, dismal, dry lagoon, where a butcher's establishment is kept for supplying a portion of the company's workmen on the line with meat. The rancho, or station for the passengers, might as well be removed, however, a few hundred yards further back, the engine going on to get its supply of water at one of the tanks placed here, instead of the olfactory nerves of the passengers being exposed to an ordeal of no agreeable character. I believe the nuisance is much complained of and will soon be removed.
The next station, Canada de Gomez, is a very respectable brick-built one, well kept, where we found some excellent partridges just cooked, which soon disappeared amongst hungry passengers, who had not time to breakfast before leaving, and there were also other refreshments. About this and Tortugas station is some very good land, and numerous English estancias in the neighbourhood, which I am assured are in a thriving condition, the aspect of the country being also more cheerful. We saw the plough at work, and I believe a large quantity of corn will soon be grown in this district. Further on, about Leones station, the country becomes more monotonous, one dead sea of brown-looking grass, without cattle or any appearance of cultivation, and not a shrub or tree to be seen. We passed a long train of carts from Rosario, filled with merchandise for distant places; also troops of laden mules going in the same direction, as the facilities offered by the railway are not yet sufficient to do away with this cumbrous and expensive mode of transit. This, however, is only a question of time. As we approached Frayle Muerto station, trees began to appear, and we passed through quite a forest, which was very pleasant after the long stretch of land bare of shrub or tree. The station at Frayle Muerto is a substantial brick building, and will be very commodious when completed. We had plenty of time to get some dinner here, and being rather behind, it was dark when we reached the present terminus at Villa Nueva, where I was kindly received by the manager, Mr. Lloyd, who gave me a shake down for the night at his comfortable little cottage close to the station. There I found a nephew of Mr. Wheelright and Senor Don Gonzalez, late Minister of Finance, with his family, waiting to proceed to Cordova next morning. I was fortunate, too, in having for fellow-travellers on the line Senor Moneta, the Government engineer, and Senor Crisofuli, both proceeding to Cordova on business connected with the railway, so the journey passed very agreeably and was anything but fatiguing for the distance. There is ample room in the carriages, which also have the advantage of enabling the passengers to go from one portion to the other and conversing with acquaintances who may happen to be there. This is much better than being stuck in a close carriage without any chance of relief. Indeed, I think for all South American railways the American saloon carriages are the most suitable as well as the most economical.
I was up early next morning to see the train start at seven for Rosario, and diligences for Cordova, Rio Cuarto, and other places. The last was a most comical sight. The mode of conveyance has been frequently described by travellers, so I will not enlarge on the subject. The diligences remind me of the old French malle poste, only the gearing is all hide instead of rope, and they are drawn by six horses, all mounted by peons, with very long traces, each horse seemingly independent of the others. The poor brutes, mostly with sore backs, are first driven into a corral close to the diligence station, where they are lassoed one by one, a halter thrown over their necks, and then taken to be saddled. The diligence station is a very busy place at this time, several starting at the same time for Cordova and other distant places; there are also private carriages, and all goes to show how extensive the passenger traffic will be when the line is open to Cordova. The time occupied in this latter part of the route is so long that a large supply of vehicles is required, as well as horses, but the latter may be had almost for the catching; at all events their cost is very trifling. After seeing the start, I went over the railway station works, and found evident signs of considerable traffic, even with an unfinished line. A large space of ground adjoining the station was filled with bullock waggons, some discharging cargo into railway waggons, while carts conveyed merchandise brought up by train from Rosario to other bullock waggons at a short distance, as there was no space for them about the station, where a large commodious brick warehouse has been built and works on a large scale are in course of erection, which will greatly facilitate the traffic now carried on. In fact, all was bustle and traffic under difficulties. Amongst the produce brought down was wool in bales, dry hides, wheat, large bars of copper, fruit, and other articles, not even omitting fowls in large coops, which had been brought all the way from Cordova.
The day was very fine and sunny, and after breakfast I accompanied Mr. Lloyd on horseback to visit a large forest and lake two or three leagues distant from the station. Here the wood used for locomotives is cut. It is found to answer better than coal, and is of course much cheaper. We passed over the newly laid rails and earthworks intended for a continuation of the line, along which piles of cut wood, extending at least a quarter of a mile, were laid, as well as a large quantity of wooden sleepers of excellent quality, to be used, I believe, between this and Cordova. We then struck across the campo to the forest, soon after entering which we came upon one of the most picturesque lakes I remember to have seen. We rode along the margin, which is chiefly sand, seeing numbers of wild fowl and black-necked swans. The water was beautifully clear. There are numbers of otters here, and at the upper end are immense rushes, which are gathered for roofing the ranchos built for the company's peons. We then struck into the forest again, and with some difficulty worked our way through it, the lining of my coat being torn off, as I was hardly got up for such an expedition. The forest is partly the property of the railway and of one of the religious establishments at Cordova, and it is capable of supplying sleepers to make the line to that city, as well as to supply fuel for the locomotives for years to come. The railway has quite a little colony here cutting wood, which is conveyed to a small steam saw mill on the line, and dealt with most expeditiously there.
On our way home we visited the company's farm, where the plough was at work, turning up a rich loamy soil, and next year it is expected a good crop of wheat will be taken, besides potatoes, Indian corn, grass for the horses, &c. In short, it will soon become a very productive farm, being also completely fenced in so as to keep out cattle. The plough was being driven by a young Somersetshire man, who evidently understood his work.
At length we finished our tour of inspection of about twenty miles very much pleased and gratified with what I had seen, and much impressed with the important future that awaits the landed property of the company, in addition to the line becoming a great main trunk one across this part of South America. Seeing is believing, and if shareholders who are sceptical as to the future could take a trip out here to satisfy themselves, they would be quite re-assured on this point. Many doubts have been thrown upon the enterprise, which I have never entertained, from my previous knowledge of the country, and my confidence is much increased by a personal inspection of the line itself and the traffic which evidently exists ready to come on the metals when proper provision is made for it. The company are about laying down the telegraph wires, which will be a great advantage and prevent accidents, besides establishing a valuable means of communication and saving much time. Indeed, no line can be efficient without it. I return to Rosario to-morrow, having only a few days to spare before embarking for England; otherwise I should have gone on to Cordova and spent some time in this interesting region, whose only want is population to render it one of the most productive of the globe.
When I made a hasty visit to Rosario in 1853 I formed a very strong opinion of its future importance from the position it occupied in connection with the river navigation and the traffic of the Western provinces; but the establishment of the Central Argentine Railway has immensely added to the other advantages of Rosario, and accounts for the great increase that has recently taken place in building and population. Thus far, however, the benefit is in a great measure prospective, the railway being still incomplete. Nevertheless, there can be little doubt that the sanguine views of speculators on the future will be realised so soon as the line is finished.
It is only in traversing the streets that one becomes aware of the great extent of the town, which is built in squares after the usual manner in this country. Several commercial establishments, some banks, and many really good shops now exist, and there is difficulty, I am informed, in finding house room for the numerous settlers in the town. I was surprised to find so large a number of cafés crowded at night by all classes, and there is also a little theatre, where, in the absence of regular performances, masked balls are frequently held. These are not of the most edifying description, but the people will amuse themselves in some way, and better this than political conspiracies, of which Rosario has often been the scene.
As I have before said the port presents quite a busy appearance; but there are no facilities in the way of wharves and landing places, which would be a vast convenience to traffic, as everything has now to be done by boats. Some gas works are in course of erection, on the river side, but owing to bad foundations or want of care the chimney fell down and only the skeleton walls appear. It will be a great blessing to the town and suburbs when they are lighted with gas, as on dark nights perambulation is difficult even with the aid of the miserable oil lamps at present in use. There is an American Missionary Chapel near the railway station, and recently the nucleus of an English Protestant Congregation has been formed under the auspices of the Rev. Mr. Combe, appointed by the South American Missionary Society. Service is just now performed in a room, but efforts are being made to build a chapel, as the number of English residents continues to increase. Mr. Combe also holds service at Frayle Muerto, where some sixty Englishmen reside on farms within a few leagues of each other.
I had occasion to visit the Protestant burial ground at Rosario to attend the funeral of a young Englishman who died under melancholy circumstances, and was sorry to notice that it presented a very forlorn aspect and was situated in a very inconvenient locality. Many interments took place here during the cholera, which was very fatal to foreigners as well as to the natives, who were decimated, and the works of the railway were also retarded by this terrible scourge.
Before closing my notice of the railway, I may add that I had an opportunity, through the kindness of Mr. Woods, the company's engineer, of inspecting the plans of the new railway station, and of going over the ground, which will be enclosed to the extent of 3,200 feet in length, with a fine river frontage on the Parana, where there is a depth of 18 to 20 feet of water close alongside. This will be a great facility in dealing with the river traffic. As regards the materials for the use of the line, they have all been landed on their own wharf and drawn up an incline, as the bank on which the station stands is at a considerable elevation above the river. Eventually, I believe, it is the intention of the company to facilitate both their passenger and goods traffic by means of landing wharves, which would be a great saving of expense and time. One thing is very certain, that the Rosario station will be the finest and most complete in South America.