CONTENTS
| PAGE | |
|---|---|
| Chapter I.—Rules for travelling abroad. Brighton. Crossing the Channel. Dieppe. Remarks on the French common People | [89] |
| Chapter II.—Normandy. Appearance of the Country. Rouen. The Cathedral there. The sense of Smell | [94] |
| Chapter III.—The Road from Rouen to Paris. A Mistake. Evreux. A young Frenchman. A trait of national Politeness. Louviers. The Diligence, and the Company in it. Lord Byron and Mr. Moore | [100] |
| Chapter IV.—The Louvre | [106] |
| Chapter V.—Gravity of the French. Their Behaviour at the Theatre. Account of going to a Play. Minute attention paid to the Arts and Sciences in France. Sir T. Lawrence. Horace Vernet | [113] |
| Chapter VI.—Dialogue on the Exhibition of Modern French Pictures | [122] |
| Chapter VII.—The Luxembourg Gallery | [129] |
| Chapter VIII.—National Antipathies. Cemetery of Père la Chaise | [138] |
| Chapter IX.—Mademoiselle Mars. The Théatre Français. Molière’s Misanthrope and Tartuffe. Admirable manner of casting a Play in Paris. French Actors, Le Peintre, Odry, and Potier. Talma and Mademoiselle Georges | [147] |
| Chapter X.—Description of Paris. The Garden of the Tuileries. The Champ de Mars. The Jardin des Plantes. Reflections | [155] |
| Chapter XI.—French Sculpture. Note on the Elgin Marbles | [162] |
| Chapter XII.—The French Opera. Dido and Æneas. Madame Le Gallois in the Ballet. Italian Opera or Salle Louvois. Mombelli and Pellegrini in the Gazza Ladra. Allusion to Brunet | [169] |
| Chapter XIII.—Leave Paris for Lyons. Adventures on the Road. Fontainbleau. Montargis. Girl at the Inn there. A French Diligence. Moulins. Palisseau. The Bourbonnois. Descent into Tarare. Meeting with a young Englishman there. Arrival at Lyons. Manners of French Servants. French Translation of Tom Jones. M. Martine’s Death of Socrates | [175] |
| Chapter XIV.—Set out for Turin by Way of Mont Cenis. The Cheats of Scapin. The Diligence. Pont Beau Voisin, the frontier Town of the King of Sardinia’s Dominions. Have to pass the Custom House. My Box of Books leaded. A Note which is little to the Purpose. First View of the Alps. The Grand Chartreuse. Cavern of La Grotte. Chambery. St. Michelle. Lans-le-Bourg. Our Spanish fellow-traveller. Passage of Mount Cenis. Arrival at Susa | [183] |
| Chapter XV.—Turin. Its magnificent Situation. The Effect of first feeling one’s-self in Italy. Theatre. Capital Pantomime-acting. Passports. Get seats in a Voiture to Florence, with two English Ladies. Mode of travelling. Italian Peasants. Parma. Windows lined with Faces. Maria-Louisa. Character of Correggio. Frescoes by the same in the Cupola of St. Paul’s. The Farnese Theatre. Bologna. Academy of Painting. Towns in Italy | [195] |
| Chapter XVI.—Road to Florence. The Apennines. Covigliaijo. La Maschere. Approach to and Description of Florence. Carnival. Lent. The Popish Calendar. Fesole. Cold in Italy | [207] |
| Chapter XVII.—The public Gallery. Antique Busts. The Venus. Raphael’s Fornarina. The Perseus of Benvenuto Cellini. John of Bologna’s Rape of the Sabines. The Palace Pitti | [219] |
| Chapter XVIII.—Sienna. Radicofani. Aquapendente. Description of the Inn there. San Lorenzo. Monte-Fiascone. Lake of Bolsena. Desolate Appearance of the Country near Rome. First View of St. Peter’s from Baccano | [227] |
| Chapter XIX.—Rome. The Vatican. The Capella Sistina. Holy Week. The Coliseum. The Temple of Vesta. Picture Galleries—the Ruspigliosi, Doria, Borghese, Corsini, and Little Farnese. Guido | [232] |
| Chapter XX.—Character of the English | [241] |
| Chapter XXI.—Return to Florence. Italian Banditti. Terni. Tivoli. Spoleto. Church and Pictures at Assizi. Perugia. An Irish Priest. Cortona. Arrezo. Incisa | [253] |
| Chapter XXII.—Journey to Venice. Plain of Lombardy. A country Inn. Ferrara. Rovigo. Padua. Description of Venice | [263] |
| Chapter XXIII.—Palaces at Venice—the Grimani, Barberigo, and Manfrini Collections. Paul Veronese. Titian’s St. Peter Martyr. The Assumption and Martyrdom of St. Lawrence. St. Mark’s Place | [268] |
| Chapter XXIV.—Journey to Milan. Verona. The Tomb of Juliet. The Amphitheatre. The Fortress of Peschiera. Lake of Garda. Milan. The Inhabitants. The Duomo. Theatre of the Gran Scala. Isola Bella. Lago Maggiore. Baveno | [275] |
| Chapter XXV.—The passage over the Simplon. Inn at Brigg. Valley of the Simplon. Sion. Bex. Vevey | [281] |
| Chapter XXVI.—Excursion to Chamouni. Mont-Blanc. Geneva. Lausanne | [288] |
| Chapter XXVII.—Return down the Rhine through Holland. Concluding remarks | [295] |
NOTES OF A JOURNEY
THROUGH FRANCE AND ITALY