The Geologic Story of Palo Duro Canyon

by William Henry Matthews

WHAT TO DO AND SEE AT PALO DURO CANYON STATE PARK

The visitor to Palo Duro Canyon can choose from a number of recreational and educational activities. Moreover, regardless of whether one visits for a few hours to picnic along the banks of the river, or spends a week at one of the well-kept campgrounds, the visit will probably be both pleasant and rewarding. In the pages that follow there is a brief description of certain of the park landmarks and some of the more popular attractions within the canyon. The numbers in parentheses refer to numbers which designate these places on the map of Palo Duro Canyon ([fig. 2], pp. [4]-5). Hopefully, this information will help one to plan his visit to the canyon and thereby make his stay more enjoyable and worthwhile.

Park Entrance (1).—

The first stop in the park is the gate at the ranger station ([fig. 21]). Here one pays a modest admission fee and receives literature and information about the park. The park is open every day of the year, but the entrance gates close at sundown.

Coronado Lodge and Observation Point (2).—

The overlook at Coronado Lodge ([fig. 22]), located about half a mile from the Park Entrance, is a good place to start one’s visit. Situated on a ledge of Ogallala [caliche] ([p. 26]), the Lodge is an attractive, rustic structure constructed of blocks of Trujillo [sandstone] ([p. 22]). Its picture windows and outdoor overlook provide a matchless view of the canyon and make it possible to become oriented for the descent to the canyon floor. Large, coin-operated telescopes permit close-up views of distant parts of the canyon, and there are museum cases containing objects of historical and geological interest from the Palo Duro area. If possible one should visit the Coronado Observation Point more than once during the visit, preferably at different times of the day. Because of shifting clouds and changing lighting conditions, the canyon presents a continually changing panorama from sunrise to sunset. Open year-round, the Lodge offers a complete line of souvenirs, film, and camping supplies. There is also a snack bar where coffee, sandwiches, and cold drinks can be purchased.

The Scenic Drive (1-16).—

After viewing the canyon from Coronado Lodge, one should take the scenic drive on Park Road 5. This paved, all-weather road descends the northwest rim of the canyon and continues on to the turnaround at Cow Camp, a distance of about 8 miles. Although the present scenic drive was completed in 1951, the path that it follows is essentially that which was laid out by Colonel Charles Goodnight when he established Palo Duro ranch in 1876. The road descends to the canyon floor in a series of well-engineered turns, but because it drops some 800 feet in little more than a mile it is wise to use second or low gear on the descent. One should also observe the posted speed limits (10 to 20 miles per hour) and keep to the right side of the road at all times.

In the 800-foot drop from rim to floor, the complete geologic section of the canyon is traversed, as one passes from the [Pleistocene] sands through the Ogallala, Trujillo, and Tecovas [Formations], before reaching the Quartermaster Formation which is exposed in the canyon floor. Each of these geologic formations is discussed elsewhere in this publication (pp. [16]-28).

Pioneer Amphitheatre (3).—

Upon reaching the canyon floor, Park Road 5 flattens out and from this point it is but a short distance to the Pioneer Amphitheatre, one of the canyon’s newest and most popular attractions. Here, located at the foot of a colorful 600-foot cliff, is a remarkable 1500-seat outdoor theatre of latest design ([fig. 23]). Each evening during a ten-week summer season, a symphonic drama portraying the history of the Texas Panhandle is presented in the amphitheatre. Information about these productions can be obtained at the Park Entrance, Coronado Lodge, and other points within the park.

Fig. 21. The entrance gate to Palo Duro Canyon State Park.

Fig. 22. Coronado Lodge on the canyon’s northwest rim affords panoramic views of the canyon.

Sad Monkey Train Ride (4).—

The Sad Monkey Railroad begins—and ends—at Sad Monkey, Texas, a small “community” that lies at the foot of Triassic Peak ([fig. 24]). Unlike most miniature railroads, the Sad Monkey Special is not a “kiddie” ride. Instead, this 2-mile journey provides an opportunity to get away from the road for a closer look at the [geologic formations] exposed along the track. There are especially good views of the Spanish Skirts ([fig. 26]), Catarina Cave ([fig. 27]), and Triassic Peak ([fig. 25]). These, and other features of geologic interest, are pointed out by an experienced lecturer who also presents a brief review of the geologic history of the area.

Triassic Peak (5).—

Long used by Indians and ranchers as a Palo Duro landmark, the canyon visitor will find Triassic Peak to be equally useful as a geologic landmark. When viewed from the Sad Monkey Railroad Terminal, the south face of Triassic Peak clearly reveals three of the four major [geologic formations] of the canyon ([fig. 25]).

Fig. 23. Located on the canyon floor, Pioneer Amphitheatre is a modern outdoor theatre where symphonic dramas are presented each summer. (Courtesy Mrs. Ples Harper, Texas Panhandle Heritage Foundation, Inc.; photograph by Ron Horn.)

The lower one-third of the peak consists of deeply furrowed, red and white banded [shales] of the Quartermaster [Formation] ([p. 17]). Overlying the [Permian] [red beds] are the brightly colored, multi-hued Tecovas shales of Triassic age ([p. 19]). The composition of the Tecovas is such that the lower shales tend to weather into relatively gentle slopes with rather smooth surfaces. Triassic Peak is capped by a weather-resistant layer of Trujillo [sandstone], and this durable cliff-forming sandstone has served as a protective covering to impede the erosion of the softer [rocks] of the Tecovas and Quartermaster Formations. Although it has withstood the ravages of time exceedingly well, the large blocks of Trujillo sandstone which litter the flanks and foot of Triassic Peak clearly indicate that [weathering] and mass-wasting have exacted their toll in the geologic past.

Fig. 24. A trip on the Sad Monkey Railroad is a good place to learn more about the canyon’s geology and get a closer look at the [rocks].

Fig. 25. Excellent exposures of the Quartermaster [Formation] of [Permian] age (1) and the Triassic Tecovas (2) and Trujillo (3) Formations can be seen in the south face of Triassic Peak. The feature known as the Sad Monkey is indicated by the arrow.

Sad Monkey, Texas derives its name from the prominent mass of Trujillo [sandstone] at the southern extremity of Triassic Peak. When viewed in the proper perspective—and with the proper amount of imagination—this massive block of sandstone bears a striking resemblance to an aged and saddened monkey.

Spanish Skirts (6).—

Few of the canyon’s features are as well-named as the gaudy Spanish Skirts ([fig. 26]). The lower part of this multi-colored bluff consists of alternating layers of red and white Quartermaster [shale], capped by the colorful maroon and lavender Tecovas shales. Located on the north flank of Timber Mesa, the Spanish Skirts and nearby Catarina Cave can be reached by an easy half-mile path. The trail begins on the west side of Park Road 5, just beyond the Timber Creek bridge located several hundred feet from the Sad Monkey Station.

Catarina Cave (7).—

A short distance west of the Spanish Skirts lies Catarina Cave. This depression has been washed out of the relatively soluble [Permian] [shales] ([fig. 27]).

Santana’s Face (8).—

Like Triassic Peak, Timber Mesa is capped by a thick layer of massively bedded Trujillo [sandstone]. On the eastern tip of the mesa the sandstone has been eroded in such a fashion that it resembles the profile of an Indian ([fig. 28]). This feature, called Santana’s Face, is best seen from the park road shortly after leaving Sad Monkey Station.

Fig. 26. The gaudy Spanish Skirts are a colorful expanse of Quartermaster and Tecovas [strata] exposed on the north flank of Timber Mesa. Note the contrast in [weathering] in the lower, gullied Quartermaster [Formation] and the smooth slopes of the Tecovas [shales] above it. Catarina Cave (arrow) is at the right.

The Sky Ride (9).—

The Sky Ride, located near the first water crossing on Park Road 5, transports visitors from the canyon floor to the top of Timber Mesa ([fig. 28]). The 300-foot ascent is made in ski-lift chairs that are comfortable and safe. The observation area atop the mesa offers an unusually fine view of most parts of the canyon.

Fig. 27. Catarina Cave (arrow) is easily reached by a half-mile trail from Park Road 5.

Fig. 28. Santana’s Face (left arrow) has been sculptured from the Trujillo [sandstone] cap of Timber Mesa. The cable for the Sky Ride ([p. 37]) passes through the notch indicated by arrow at right.

The First Water Crossing (10).—

As it winds through the canyon, the park road crosses the Prairie Dog Town Fork of the Red River seven times in a distance of about 4 miles. These fords, or water crossings as they are called locally, are paved and are normally safe to pass through. They should, however, be avoided during times of heavy rains and flash flooding. Because of stream erosion, especially fine exposures of the Quartermaster [Formation] are revealed in the stream banks near several of the crossings.

The first of these crossings ([fig. 29]) is about 1 mile from the Sad Monkey Station and is one of the more popular picnic areas in the park. This area was also popular with earlier residents of the park, for it is believed to have been the campgrounds of both the Kiowa and Comanche Indians.

Colonel Charles Goodnight’s Dugout (11).—

As mentioned earlier ([p. 6]) Colonel Charles Goodnight entered the canyon in 1876 with more than 16,000 head of cattle. Although he later established more comfortable quarters, Col. Goodnight first lived in a primitive dugout similar to the one shown in [figure 30]. A replica of this early shelter has been constructed of mud, stone, and logs and can be seen on the west side of the park road just beyond the first water crossing (see [fig. 29]).

Fig. 29. Now a popular picnic spot, the wooded area near the first water crossing through the Prairie Dog Town Fork of the Red River was a favorite Indian campground.

The Lighthouse (12).—

The unpaved road to the Lighthouse enters Park Road 5 about two-tenths of a mile beyond the first water crossing. Although considered by many to be the canyon’s best-known landmark, the Lighthouse is actually not within park boundaries. It is located in Little Sunday Canyon about 3 miles west of the road and is not easily accessible to the average visitor. Like many of the park’s natural attractions, the Lighthouse is an erosional remnant of colorful Trujillo [shales] and [sandstones] ([fig. 31]). A similar pedestal [rock], the Devil’s Tombstone, can be reached by means of a trail which leaves the Lighthouse road and enters Sunday Canyon.

Fig. 30. When Colonel Charles Goodnight settled in the canyon in 1876 he lived in a primitive dugout similar to the one shown here.

Capitol Peak (13).—

Capitol Peak (figs. [20] and [32]) is a rather imposing geologic feature that can be seen from a number of points along Park Road 5. There are especially good views in the vicinity of the second water crossing if one will look to the west of the road. Just beyond the crossing an unimproved road leads to the foot of Capitol Peak. The lower part of this feature is composed of Quartermaster [shales] of [Permian] age and the upper section consists largely of Triassic Tecovas shales. When viewed from the proper angle, the silhouette of Capitol Peak is thought to resemble the prostrate form of a human ([fig. 32]). For this reason it has also been called the Sleeping Indian.

Fortress Cliff (14).—

The Ogallala [Formation] of [Pliocene] age ([p. 23]) forms the upper rim of the canyon and is well exposed in impressive Fortress Cliff ([fig. 33]). Although this precipitous cliff dominates the eastern rim of the canyon along most of the scenic drive, especially good views are afforded between the second and third water crossings.

The [Rock] Garden (15).—

Shortly after fording the river at the fifth water crossing, there is a jumbled pile of boulders on the west side of the road ([fig. 34]). This accumulation of Trujillo [sandstone] blocks has been named the [Rock] Garden. Many boulders such as these have accumulated on the floor of the canyon in ages past. However, most of these have been destroyed by [weathering] and their fragments removed by the canyon’s streams.

The Devil’s Slide (16).—

The Devil’s Slide can be reached by an unimproved road that leads southwest from the scenic drive for a distance of about half a mile. Composed of upper Quartermaster and lower Tecovas [shales], the surface of this eroded spur is laced with many trails and “slides” that have been made by previous visitors ([fig. 35]).

Fig. 31. The Lighthouse, an erosional remnant and the “trademark” of Palo Duro Canyon, exhibits well the geologic phenomenon of differential erosion ([p. 31]).

The Turnaround (17).—

A loop marks the end of Park Road 5 and the conclusion of the scenic drive. Located in this area are a number of fine camping areas, picnic grounds, the old stone cottages called the “Cow Cabins,” and rest rooms with shower facilities ([fig. 36]).

Fig. 32. The “dome” on Capitol Peak is a well-known canyon landmark. Composed of the Tecovas and Quartermaster [Formations], the profile of Capitol Peak is referred to as the Sleeping Indian. (The “Indian’s” head can be seen in the right background.)

Fig. 33. Fortress Cliff is a prominent feature on the eastern rim of the canyon. Seen here are the precipitous cliffs developed in the Ogallala [caliche] ([p. 26]) and the [sandstones] and [shales] of the Trujillo [Formation].

Fig. 34. The [Rock] Garden is a jumbled mass of Trujillo [sandstone] boulders that mark the site of an ancient landslide.

Hiking.—

There are a number of established trails for the visitor who is interested in hiking. The more popular trails include those to the Spanish Skirts and Catarina Cave ([p. 37]), the Devil’s Tombstone, the Lighthouse ([p. 39]), and the Devil’s Slide ([p. 40]). Park rangers will be glad to provide more complete information about these and other trails within the canyon.

Horseback riding.—

Saddle horses can be rented at the stables located east of the road near the Pioneer Amphitheatre. There are a number of trail rides that can be taken on well-trained horses accustomed to the rugged terrain of the canyon. Additional information may be obtained from the attendants at the stable.

Camping and picnicking.—

An ample number of well-developed camping and picnic areas are scattered throughout the canyon. Most are located adjacent to or a short distance from Park Road 5; they are equipped with outdoor fireplaces and tables. Running water, rest rooms, and showers are provided in certain areas. Campsites are available on a first-come first-served basis, and there is a 10-day limit on overnight camping. Detailed information on camping regulations and camping areas is available from a park ranger or at the Entrance Station.

Photography.—

Palo Duro Canyon offers many opportunities for both amateur and professional photography. The multi-colored [rock formations], erosional land-forms, and plants and animals offer limitless possibilities to the creative and imaginative photographer. Color shots are especially effective, but a haze filter will be helpful when photographing distant objects. Morning and afternoon are the best times for picture taking as the mid-day sun is “flat” and lends little perspective to the canyon scene.

Fig. 35. The Devil’s Slide in the south end of the park is an eroded spur of Tecovas [shales]. Some of the “slides” made by visitors are indicated by the arrow.

Fig. 36. [Outcrops] of the Quartermaster (1) and Tecovas (2) [Formations] provide a geological backdrop for this campsite near the turnaround at the end of Park Road 5.