CHAPTER XIX.

RESUMÉ.

My report would be incomplete were I to fail to bring to the notice of the department circumstances concerning the free navigation of the river that have occurred since my return from the valley of the Amazon.

These circumstances are clearly the result of my mission, which appears to have opened the eyes of the nations who dwell upon the banks of the Amazon, and to have stirred into vigorous action interests which have hitherto laid dormant. They have an important and direct bearing upon the question, whether the United States may or may not enter into commercial relations, by the way of the Amazon, with the Spanish American republics, who own the headwaters of that noble stream.

The government of the United States had scarcely begun to entertain the idea of sending a commission to explore the valley of the Amazon, with a view to ascertain what benefits might accrue to its citizens by the establishment of commercial relations with the people who dwell upon its banks, when the fact became known to Brazil. That government, thus awakened to its own (more apparent, however, than real) interests, immediately cast about for means to secure for itself any advantages that might arise from a monopoly of the trade of the river.

She accordingly despatched to Lima an able envoy, Duarte da Ponte Ribeiro, with instructions to make a treaty with Peru concerning the navigation of the Amazon; and, this done, to proceed to Bolivia for the same purpose, while the Brazilian Resident Minister in Bolivia, Miguel Maria Lisboa, was sent to the republics of Ecuador, Venezuela, and New Granada, so as to secure for Brazil the navigation of all the confluents of the Amazon belonging to Spanish South America.

Da Ponte succeeded in making with Peru a treaty highly advantageous to his own government. It is styled "A treaty of fluvial commerce and navigation, and of boundary," and has the following articles relating to steamboat navigation:

"Article 1.

"The republic of Peru, and his Majesty, the Emperor of Brazil, desiring to encourage, respectively, the navigation of the river Amazon and its confluents by steamboat, which by ensuring the exportation of the immense products of those vast regions, may contribute to increase the number of the inhabitants and civilize the savage tribes, agree, that the merchandise, produce, and craft, passing from Peru to Brazil, or from Brazil to Peru, across the frontier of both States, shall be exempt from all duty, imposts, or sale duty, (alcabala,) whatsoever, to which the same products are not subject in the territory where produced, to which they shall be wholly assimilated.

"Article 2.

"The high contracting parties, being aware of the great expense attending the establishment of steam navigation, and that it will not yield a profit during the first years to the shareholders of the company destined to navigate the Amazon from its source to its banks ("litoral") in Peru, which should belong exclusively to the respective States, agree to give to the first company which shall be formed a sum of money, during five years, which shall not be less than $20,000 annually for each of the high contracting parties, either of whom may increase the said amount, if it suits its particular interests, without the other party being thereby obliged to contribute in the same ratio.

"The conditions to which the shareholders are to be subject, in consideration of the advantages to be conceded to them, shall be declared in separate articles.

"The other conterminous States which, adopting the same principles, may desire to take part in the enterprise upon the same conditions, shall likewise contribute a certain pecuniary quota to it."

The 5th clause of the 1st of the separate articles alluded to above declares that the company to be formed shall arrange with both governments touching the respective points on the river Amazon or Marañon, to which the steamboats shall navigate, &c., &c.

Article 3d, of the separate articles, declares that the agents of the Imperial government, with those of the government of Peru, duly authorized, shall establish the enterprise ("contratarán la empresa") upon the terms indicated in these articles.

The persons undertaking the enterprise shall agree with the said agents touching the mode and place in which they shall receive the stipulated sums.

Both governments, in their respective territories, shall take care of the observance of the conditions agreed upon.

Immediately upon the conclusion of the treaty, and before the exchange of ratifications, Brazil gives a practical illustration of the wisdom of a remark attributed to her wily minister in Lima, which was probably intended only for Peruvian ears, and directed rather at another government than his own, viz: "that it was not expedient for a weak nation to treat with one more powerful than itself; because, in the interpretation of treaties, the stronger party always enforced its own construction, and the weaker, as invariably, went to the wall."

By a decree of the Emperor, of date August 30th, 1852, Brazil gives to Ireneo Evangelista de Souza, one of her own citizens, the exclusive privilege of the navigation of the Amazon for thirty years, and arranges with him touching the respective points on the Amazon, or Marañon, to which the steamers shall navigate.

In the mean time, however, a new minister, Don Manuel Tirado, (more awake to the interests of his country than the framer of the treaty,) takes charge of the portfolio of foreign affairs of Peru. He thus writes to the Brazilian minister of foreign affairs:

"Ministry of Foreign Affairs, Lima,
"January 20 1853.

"Sir: I have the honor, by direction of my government, to inform your excellency that it has understood, by a communication from Don Evarista Gomez Sanchez, our Consul General, charged with the exchange of ratifications of the treaty celebrated in this capital on the 23d of October, 1851, with the Señor Da Ponte Ribeiro, Envoy Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary of his Majesty, the Emperor, that said exchange probably took place in Rio Janeiro, on the ——.

"Said commissioner informs me, at the same time, that the government of his Majesty has conceded a privilege in favor of Don Juan ('Ireneo') Evangelista de Souza for the establishment of navigation by steam of the river Amazon, under the stipulations of a contract celebrated by authority of his Majesty, approved in his decree of the 30th of August of the preceding year.

"Said privilege defines the course of the lines which are to be established; the first to run from the city of Belen, capital of the province of Pará, to the town at the mouth of the Rio Negro, capital of the province of Amazonas; and the second to continue on from this last city to Nauta, a town situated on the Peruvian banks.

"The establishment of said navigation by steam upon the Amazon is a point agreed upon in article 2d of the treaty; as also the annual subsidy of $20,000 by each one of the governments for the space of five years in favor of the company that will undertake the enterprise; conditions to which this government is bound, and which it is desirous of fulfilling.

"This government, then, being aware of the contract celebrated with the above-mentioned Don Juan ('Ireneo') Evangelista de Souza, it is fit that I should say to your Excellency that, as according to article 3d of the separate articles of the treaty, the contracts for navigation should be made by agents duly authorized by both governments (the government of his Majesty having initiated the formation of an enterprise to this effect, and having also reference to that part of the course of the river belonging to Peru, moved, without doubt, by the desire of hastening the attainment of the great objects to which this navigation is destined,) this government can but hope that that of your Excellency will deign to inform the company organized in Rio Janeiro, that, as respects the Peruvian shores, the conditions of navigation, its course and extent, and the obligations relative to Peru, cannot be considered as existing or efficacious, except for the five years agreed upon by the treaty, and by the celebration of an agreement or contract with the same government whence these obligations may arise.

"There being no evidence up to this time that our Consul General, Commissioner Don Evarista Gomez Sanchez, has been consulted in the agreement; and it being believed that, at the date of it, he was not in Rio Janeiro, your Excellency will see how proper it is to make to you this anticipation in furtherance of the realization of that internal navigation which, for so long a time, has yearned for a decided and efficacious protection on the part of the States who share these fruitful waters, destined to open to the world new objects of speculation and of traffic, and to give to commerce and civilization one more field for their efforts.

"In the mean time, as, according to the advices of the same Consul General, the first trip of the new steamers is to be made in the month of May next, this government—for the purpose of avoiding difficulties in their running, and to contribute to the important end which they are destined to accomplish, until the opportunity occurs to arrange the conditions obligatory in that navigation by a free contract on its part, as I have already expressed to your Excellency, and according to the mutual obligations contracted in the treaty—has thought proper to direct, as a facility spontaneously conceded in the mean time to the navigation, that the authorities who exercise jurisdiction on those shores should permit the running of the steamers on the corresponding waters of Peru, and assign them points where they may touch, until the establishment of an arrangement to which this navigation is to be definitely subjected, by means of a contract which this government is bound to make for five years according to stipulation, and which it hopes your Excellency will deign to cause to be offered for its free acceptance by the associates of the company created under the authority of his Majesty, the Emperor.

"With sentiments, &c., &c.

JOSÉ MANUEL TIRADO.

"To his Excellency, the Minister of Foreign Affairs of Brazil."


But whilst Tirado is penning this courtly caveat in Lima, Gomez Sanchez, in Rio Janeiro, is giving his assent to the De Souza contract, extending it in all its force to Peru, and entering into an agreement with De Souza by which he gives him the right of exploring the Ucayali, and other rivers of the west, from Rio, besides other privileges, which, if acceded to by the Peruvian government, would give Brazil all power over the navigation of those rivers, as well as over that of the main stream.

Fortunately for the interests of commerce in general, and for the more speedy development of the great resources that lie hid in the valley of the Amazon, Tirado practically disavows the action of Gomez Sanchez, and obtains from the Council of State of Peru its assent (subject, of course, to the approval of the legislative power) to the appropriation of $200,000 towards the exploration by steamboat of the Peruvian tributaries of the Amazon, and the colonization and settlement of their fertile lands. He has already appropriated $75,000 of this sum for the purchase of two small steamers, which are now in the course of construction in the United States, and which will be delivered at Loreto (the frontier port of Peru on the Amazon) by the 1st of January, 1854.

The enlightened and patriotic President of Peru, Don José Rufino Echenique, approving and adopting the policy of Tirado, goes further, and issues a decree relative to the opening and settlement of the Amazon. It is dated April 5, 1853. I give a translation of some of its more important articles:

Article 1.

In accordance with the treaty concluded with the empire of Brazil, on the 23d of October, 1851, navigation, trade, and commerce, on the part of Brazilian vessels and subjects, is allowed upon the waters of the Amazon, in all that part of its banks belonging to Peru as far as Nauta, at the mouth of the Ucayali.

Article 2.

The subjects and citizens of other nations which have treaties with Peru, by virtue of which they may enjoy the rights of those of the most favored nation, or to whom those same rights, as regards commerce and navigation, in conformity with said treaties, may be communicable, shall, in case of obtaining entrance into the waters of the Amazon, enjoy, upon the Peruvian shores, the rights conceded to the vessels and subjects of Brazil by the foregoing article.

Article 3.

To carry into effect the two preceding articles, and in agreement with them, the ports of Nauta and Loreto are declared open to foreign commerce.

Article 4.

In conformity to the law of November 20, 1852, no import or export duties shall be paid in said free ports on merchandise or produce which may be introduced or taken thence. This, however, does not extend to dues merely municipal, which the people themselves may impose for objects of local utility.

Article 10.

The Governor-General (resident in Loreto) is empowered to concede gratuitously to all, whether Peruvians or foreigners, who wish to establish themselves in those countries under the national rule and in subordination to the laws and authorities, titles of possession to land (in conformity with the law of November 21, 1852,) from two to forty fanegadas, in proportion to the means and ability of cultivation, and number of individuals who may constitute the family of those who shall establish themselves. He will give an account of these concessions, so that the government may confirm them, and expedite titles of proprietorship.

Article 11.

The governors of the districts may make concessions of lands from two to four fanegadas, informing the Governor-General, who shall also inform the government.

Article 12.

Larger grants of lands for founding colonies, towns, and estates, will be made by the government gratuitously, but by means of agreements with contractors, in which the conditions of this colonization shall be established.

Article 13.

All concessions of lands made to individuals or families, in conformity with articles 10 and 11, shall be void, if, at the end of eighteen months, no attempt has been made to cultivate or to build upon them.

Article 15.

Over and above the reward which the law of the 17th of November, 1849, concedes to vessels or contractors who may introduce colonists, the government binds itself to give to those who may come with destination to the lands or valleys of the Amazon and its tributaries in Peru, a passage to the place, implements of husbandry, and seeds, all gratuitous; for which purpose sufficient deposits shall be placed in the hands of the Governor General at Loreto.

Article 16.

A national vessel shall be detailed for the service of carrying those who, whether citizens-born or emigrant foreigners, may desire to establish themselves in those countries; and, after being landed at Huanchaco, the Prefect of Libertad shall make provision for the transportation of the immigrants to said places, by the route of the Huallaga.

Article 17.

In conformity with the law of November 21, 1832, the lands cultivated and houses built shall be exempt from all contributions, and shall enjoy the other privileges which the laws concede to the owners of uncleared lands.

Article 18.

The new population shall pay no contribution for the space of twenty years; nor shall the Catholics pay obventional or parochial dues, the cures that shall be there established being at the expense of the State. The new population shall also be exempt from the impost on stamped paper, being permitted to use common paper for their petitions and contracts.

Article 21.

It shall be permitted in the new settlements that the individuals who form them may unite themselves in municipal corporations, under the presidency of the governors of the respective districts or territories, for the purpose of making laws relative to the local administration, without giving the governors created by this decree any power to interfere with rights, of whatever nature, in respect to individual liberty; they only taking care for the preservation of public order, and of the national authority, in conformity with the laws.

Article 22.

Because this territory is a new establishment, and has no judicial authorities, it shall be permitted, for the administration of justice, that the new settlers shall name their own judges, electing them in the form most convenient, until Congress shall legislate in relation to the administration of justice and in municipal affairs.

The other articles divide the territory proposed to be settled into districts: four on the Amazon, from Loreto upwards to Nauta; two on the Ucayali, from the mouth to Sarayacu; and four on the Huallaga, from the mouth of Tingo Maria—all under the direction of a governor general established at Loreto. The Intendente general of the missions of Pozuzu, which are near the sources of the Pachitea, a confluent of the Ucayali, is directed to observe the conditions of the decree; while the governors of the Upper Mission, which is all the country on both sides of the Amazon above the mouth of the Huallaga, are directed to exercise their authority as before, in dependence on the prefecture of Amazonas, until special decrees shall be issued for their guidance and government.

Article 25 appropriates the funds necessary to open roads from Cerro Pasco to Pozuzu, and from Pozuzu to Mayro, at the head of navigation on the Pachitea, under the direction of the intendente of Pozuzu. So that my old chatty acquaintance of Huanuco, whom Col. Lucar designated as the best animal magnetizer in the world, has at last carried his point and accomplished his long-cherished purpose. If the country between Cerro Pasco and Mayro be such, as he described it, this certainly will be the best route of communication between Lima and the Atlantic; but earnest and enthusiastic men see no obstacles to their favorite schemes; and I much doubt if this road would, according to his account, run for the greater part of its distance over a pampa or plain.

The portions of land granted by this decree are not sufficiently large, a fanegada being only about two acres; but I have no doubt that a proper representation to the Peruvian government would set this matter right, and very much increase the size of the grants. No man would be willing to undergo the exposure, privations, and hardships of a dwelling in the wilderness whilst he was clearing his lands, unless with the prospect of having a large and valuable estate, if not available for himself, at least for his children. The government should make legal titles to each adult male settler of a tract of land at least a mile square.

The decree says nothing in relation to toleration of creeds in religion. The President could not grant toleration, for it would be contrary to the constitution of Peru; but he knows as well as I do that there will be very little trouble in that country from that cause. The country will afford room for every shade of opinion and every form of worship; and men will be too busy there for years to come to find leisure for quarrelling on such trifling yet mischievous subjects. The decree refers in several places particularly to Catholics, as if in contradistinction to, and tacit acknowledgment of, a Protestant interest.

In his letter to the council of state, asking its concurrence in the appropriation by the executive of the $200,000 towards the establishment of steam navigation and exploration on the Ucayali and Huallaga rivers, and the colonization and settlement of the lands upon their banks, Señor Tirado thus expresses himself:

"Amongst the most urgent national obligations is that of procuring the civilization of the savage tribes who dwell on the borders of the Ucayali and in other parts of Eastern Peru; and also that which binds the republic to lay the foundations of the prosperity which may be expected from commerce and communication with the rest of the world, by means of the navigation of the Amazon and its confluents.

"The Spanish government, and subsequently the independent, on account of divers circumstances, has applied but feeble means to the accomplishment of the first of these objects. The wants and spirit of the age now call for the full and immediate application of the care and resources of the nation towards these places, subject to the territorial sovereignty of Peru, which will soon see an influx of foreign merchandise, and in which, probably, an abundant emigration, and an extensive traffic, will create towns of important commerce and a field for the efforts of civilization and industry."

These are patriotic and statesmanlike views, which give ample testimony to the truth of Ijurra's estimate of the character of this wise minister, contained in a recent letter to me. He says:

"The minister Tirado is the man for the age in Peru. In nothing does he resemble his predecessors or his cotemporaries. His travels in the United States, and in some parts of Europe, have not been barren of results. Endowed with an intellect that comprehends all at a glance, and full of knowledge, he is entirely worthy of the appellation of a true statesman. At the same time, possessed of a heart which is full of enthusiasm and patriotism, he desires to introduce into my unhappy country the institutions, laws, and manners, which have rendered happy other countries that I have known, and which, doubtless, will be adaptable to the necessities of our people, and conducive to the rapid progress of the republic.

"He will commence by calling over industrious men of all professions and creeds, of all ages, nations, and conditions, with the sole condition that they shall be moral and laborious; he will endow them with those fertile lands, with which you are familiar, to the eastward of the Andes; he will supply them with tools, seeds, and domestic animals, and will give them the necessary guarantees that they may live together like brothers, with absolute liberty of action and of conscience."

All this, and more, has Tirado accomplished in the recent decree of the Peruvian government. I think that I can also trace Ijurra's hand in this action of the government, and fancy that it is the result of many conversations we had on this subject during our long voyage. He is now in high favor with the government, and has been sent to Loreto in quality of sub prefect and military commandant, (second in authority in the new province.) He writes me that he shall establish himself at Caballo cocha, where he will labor with zeal and vigor in the great cause, till death overtakes him. Long and late may it be in coming to my faithful companion.

Fortunately for her own interests, the advancement of commerce, and the progress of civilization, Bolivia refused to listen to the Brazilian envoy; she knew that, even with the assistance of Brazil, she was not able to undertake, with any prospect of success, the navigation of the rivers, and the development of the resources of her great territory. She preferred to entrust this enterprise to the energy and competition of the great commercial nations of the world, rather than take it on her own shoulders by a useless exclusiveness; and she therefore issued a decree on the 27th of January, 1853, declaring several ports on each and all of her rivers which communicate with the Atlantic, whether by the La Plata or the Amazon, free and open to the commerce of the world.

This was a very important document; it put the Northern republics on their guard, and excited a spirit of emulation in their governments. I have heard nothing of the result of Lisboa's mission; but I know that some of the most distinguished citizens of those republics have declared themselves favorable to the project of opening their rivers and ports to foreign trade, and are disposed to urge their respective governments, if necessary, to demand of Brazil the right of way to the ocean.

Independently of the action of the Spanish American republics concerning the free navigation of their tributaries of the Amazon, we have a special treaty with Peru, negotiated by J. Randolph Clay, our present minister, in July, 1851, which entitles us, under the present circumstances, to the navigation of the Peruvian Amazon. The second article of that treaty declares that, "The two high-contracting parties hereby bind and engage themselves not to grant any favor, privilege, or immunity whatever, in matters of commerce and navigation, to other nations, which shall not be also immediately extended to the citizens of the other contracting party, who shall enjoy the same gratuitously, or on giving a compensation as nearly as possible of proportionate value and effect, to be adjusted by mutual agreement, if the concession shall have been conditional."

The concession to Brazil is conditional, but we shall find no difficulty in "giving a compensation as nearly as possible of proportionate value and effect;" that is a matter for Peru to decide, and there is little doubt but that she will consider the presence of our people and our vessels in her country, and upon her streams, as being of proportionate value.

It will be thus seen that our citizens have a legal right, by express grant and decree, to trade upon the interior waters of Peru and Bolivia, and it is presumed that Brazil will not attempt to dispute the now well-settled doctrine, that no nation holding the mouth of a river has a right to bar the way to market of a nation holding higher up, or to prevent that nation's trade and intercourse with whom she will, by a great highway common to both.

But Brazil has effectually closed the Amazon by her De Souza contract; she gives him the exclusive privilege for thirty years, with a bonus of $80,000 per annum, besides guaranteeing to him the $20,000 of Peru. This of course defies competition, though I very much doubt if the contract will endure; the Brazilians are so little acquainted with river steam navigation that De Souza will run his boats at great cost; the conditions of the contract are also stringent and oppressive; and under such circumstances, even with the bonus of $100,000, I doubt if the trade of the river for several years to come will support the six steamers that he contracts to keep on the line.

Brazil, too, will soon see that in this matter she is standing in her own light. The efforts of this company, though partly supported by the government, will make little beneficial impression upon so vast a country, in comparison with that which would be made by the active competition of the commercial nations of the world.

Were she to adopt a liberal instead of an exclusive policy, throw open the Amazon to foreign commerce and competition, invite settlement upon its banks, and encourage emigration by liberal grants of lands, and efficient protection to person and property, backed as she is by such natural advantages, imagination could scarcely follow her giant strides towards wealth and greatness.

She, together with the five Spanish American republics above named, owns in the valley of the Amazon more than two millions of square miles of land, intersected in every direction by many thousand miles of what might be called canal navigation. As a general rule, large ships may sail thousands of miles to the foot of the falls of the gigantic rivers of this country; and in Brazil particularly, a few hundred miles of artificial canal would open to the steamboat, and render available, thousands of miles more.

This land is of unrivalled fertility; on account of its geographical situation and topographical and geological formation, it produces nearly everything essential to the comfort and well-being of man. On the top and eastern slope of the Andes lie hid unimaginable quantities of silver, iron, coal, copper, and quicksilver, waiting but the application of science and the hand of industry for their development. The successful working of the quicksilver mines of Huancavelica would add several millions of silver to the annual product of Cerro Pasco alone. Many of the streams that dash from the summits of the Cordilleras wash gold from the mountain-side, and deposit it in the hollows and gulches as they pass. Barley, quinua, and potatoes, best grown in a cold, with wheat, rye, maize, clover, and tobacco, products of a temperate region, deck the mountain-side, and beautify the valley; while immense herds of sheep, llamas, alpacas, and vicuñas feed upon those elevated plains, and yield wool of the finest and longest staple.

Descending towards the plain, and only for a few miles, the eye of the traveller from the temperate zone is held with wonder and delight by the beautiful and strange productions of the torrid. He sees for the first time the symmetrical coffee-bush, rich with its dark-green leaves, its pure white blossoms, and its gay, red fruit. The prolific plantain, with its great waving fan-like leaf, and immense pendant branches of golden-looking fruit, enchains his attention. The sugar-cane waves in rank luxuriance before him, and if he be familiar with Southern plantations, his heart swells with emotion as the gay yellow blossoms and white boll of the cotton sets before his mind's eye the familiar scenes of home.

Fruits, too, of the finest quality and most luscious flavor, grow here; oranges, lemons, bananas, pine-apples, melons, chirimoyas, granadillas, and many others, which, unpleasant to the taste at first, become with use exceedingly grateful to the accustomed palate. The Indian gets here his indispensable coca, and the forests at certain seasons are redolent with the perfume of the vanilla.

It is sad to recollect that in this beautiful country (I have before me the valley of the Chanchamayo) men should have offered me title deeds in gratuity to as much of this rich land as I wanted. Many of the inhabitants of Tarma hold grants of land in the Chanchamayo country from the government, but are so distrustful of its ability to protect them in their labors from the encroachments of the savages, that they do not cultivate them.

About half a dozen persons only have cleared and are cultivating haciendas. One of these, the brave old Catalan Zapatero, was building himself a fire-proof house, mounting swivels at his gate, and swearing in the jargon of his province that, protection or no protection, he would bide the brunt of the savages, and not give up what had cost him so much time and labor without a fight for it. It is a pity that there are not more like him. The Peruvian government, however, should assure the settlers of efficient protection. It should not only keep up the stockade of San Ramon, but should open a road down the valley of the Chanchamayo to some navigable point on that stream, or to the Ucayali itself, establishing other stockades along the route for the protection from the Indians of those whom liberal offers may attract to the settlement and cultivation of that delightful country. I feel confident that she will pierce the continent and open a communication with the Atlantic with more facility and advantage by this route than by any other.

The climate of this country is pleasant and healthy; it is entirely free from the annoyance of sand flies and musquitoes, which infest the lower part of the tributaries, and nearly the whole course of the Amazon. There is too much rain for agreeability from August to March; but nothing could be more pleasant than the weather when I was there in June.

The country everywhere in Peru, at the eastern foot of the Andes, is such as I have described above. Further down we find the soil, the peculiar condition, the productions of a country which is occasionally overflowed, and then subjected, with still occasional showers, to the influence of a tropical sun. From these causes we see a fecundity of soil and a rapidity of vegetation that is marvellous, and to which even Egypt, the ancient granary of Europe, affords no parallel, because, similar in some other respects, this country has the advantage of Egypt in that there is here no drought. Here trees, evidently young, shoot up to such a height that no fowling piece will reach the game seated on their topmost branches, and with such rapidity that the roots have not strength or sufficient hold upon the soil to support their weight, and they are continually falling, borne down by the slightest breeze, or by the mass of parasites and creepers that envelop them from root to top.

This is the country of rice, of sarsaparilla, of India-rubber, balsam copaiba, gum copal, animal and vegetable wax, cocoa, Brazilian nutmeg, Tonka beans, ginger, black pepper, arrow-root, tapioca, annatto, indigo, sapucaia, and Brazil nuts; dyes of the gayest colors, drugs of rare virtue, variegated cabinet woods of the finest grain, and susceptible of the highest polish. The forests are filled with game, and the rivers stocked with turtle and fish. Here dwell the anta or wild cow, the peixi-boi or fish-ox, the sloth, the ant-eater, the beautiful black tiger, the mysterious electric eel, the boa constrictor, the anaconda, the deadly coral snake, the voracious alligator, monkeys in endless variety, birds of the most brilliant plumage, and insects of the strangest forms and gayest colors.

The climate of this country is salubrious and the temperature agreeable. The direct rays of the sun are tempered by an almost constant east wind, laden with moisture from the ocean, so that one never suffers either from heat or cold. The man accustomed to this climate is ever unwilling to give it up for a more bracing one, and will generally refuse to exchange the abandon and freedom from restraint that characterises his life there, for the labor and struggle necessary even to maintain existence in a more rigorous climate or barren soil. The active, the industrious, and the enterprising, will be here, as elsewhere, in advance of his fellows; but this is the very paradise of the lazy and the careless. Here, and here only, such an one may maintain life almost without labor.

I met with no epidemics on my route; except at Pará, the country seemed a stranger to yellow fever, small-pox, or cholera. There seemed to be a narrow belt of country on each side of the Amazon where bilious fevers, called sezoens or maleitas, were particularly prevalent. These fevers are of malignant type, and often terminate in fatal jaundice. I was told that six or eight days' navigation on each tributary, from the mouth upwards, would bring me to this country, and three or four more would pass me through it; and that I ran little risk of taking the fever if I passed directly through. It appeared, also, to be confined to a particular region of country with regard to longitude. I heard nothing of it on the Huallaga, the Ucayali, or the Tapajos, while it was spoken of with dread on the Trombetas, the Madeira, the Negro, and the Purus. Filth and carelessness in this climate produce ugly cutaneous affections, with which the Indians are much afflicted, and I heard of cases of elephantiasis and leprosy.

I have been describing the country bordering on the Amazon. Up the tributaries, midway between their mouth and source, on each side are wide savannahs, where feed herds of cattle, furnishing a trade in hides; and at the sources of the southern tributaries are ranges of mountains, which yield immense treasures of diamonds and other precious stones.

It is again (as in the case of the country at the foot of the Andes) sad to think that, excluding the savage tribes, who for any present purposes of good may be ranked with the beasts that perish, this country has not more than one inhabitant for every ten square miles of land; that it is almost a wilderness; that being capable, as it is, of yielding support, comfort, and luxury to many millions of civilized people who have superfluous wants, it should be but the dwelling place of the savage and the wild beast.

Such is the country whose destiny and the development of whose resources is in the hands of Brazil. It seems a pity that she should undertake the work alone; she is not strong enough; she should do what we are not too proud to do, stretch out her hands to the world at large, and say, "Come and help us to subdue the wilderness; here are homes, and broad lands, and protection for all who choose to come." She should break up her steamboat monopoly, and say to the sea-faring and commercial people of the world, "We are not a maritime people; we have no skill or practice in steam navigation; come and do our carrying, while we work the lands; bring your steamers laden with your manufactures, and take from the banks of our rivers the rich productions of our vast regions." With such a policy, and taking means to preserve her nationality, for which she is now abundantly strong, I have no hesitation in saving, that I believe in fifty years Rio Janeiro, without losing a tittle of her wealth and greatness, will be but a village to Para, and Para will be what New Orleans would long ago have been but for the activity of New York and her own fatal climate, the greatest city of the New World; Santarem will be St. Louis, and Barra, Cincinnati.

The citizens of the United States are, of all foreign people, most interested in the free navigation of the Amazon. We, as in comparison with other foreigners, would reap the lion's share of the advantages to be derived from it. We would fear no competition. Our geographical position, the winds of Heaven, and the currents of the ocean, are our potential auxilaries. Thanks to Maury's investigations of the winds and currents, we know that a chip flung into the sea at the mouth of the Amazon will float close by Cape Hatteras. We know that ships sailing from the mouth of the Amazon, for whatever port of the world, are forced to our very doors by the SE. and NE. trade winds; that New York is the half way house between Pará and Europe.

We are now Brazil's best customer and most natural ally. President Aranha knew this. At a dinner-party given by him at Barra, his first toast was, "To the nation of America most closely allied with Brazil—the United States." And he frequently expressed to me his strong desire to have a thousand of my active countrymen to help him to subdue the wilderness, and show the natives how to work. I would that all Brazilians were influenced by similar sentiments. Then would the mighty river, now endeared to me by association, no longer roll its sullen waters through miles of unbroken solitude; no longer would the deep forests that line its banks afford but a shelter for the serpent, the tiger, and the Indian; but, furrowed by a thousand keels, and bearing upon its waters the mighty wealth that civilization and science would call from the depths of those dark forests, the Amazon would "rejoice as a strong man to run a race;" and in a few years we might, without great hyperbole, or doing much violence to fancy, apply to this river Byron's beautiful lines:

"The casteled crag of Drachenfels

Frowns o'er the wide and winding Rhine,

Whose breast of waters broadly swells

Between the banks that bear the vine;

And hills all rich with blossomed trees,

And fields that promise coin and wine,

With scattered cities crowning these,

Whose far white walls along them shine."

Then might Brazil, pointing to the blossoming wilderness, the well-cultivated farm, the busy city, the glancing steamboat, and listening to the hum of the voices of thousands of active and prosperous men, say, with pride and truth: "Thus much have we done for the advancement of civilization and the happiness of the human race."

In making out this report, I have been guided by the letter and spirit of my instructions, and have striven to present a clear and faithful picture of the subjects indicated by them. These were, in brief terms, the present condition of the country—its productions and resources—the navigability of its streams—its capacities for trade and commerce—and its future prospects. This must be my excuse for my meagre contributions to general science. More, I fear, has been expected in this way than has been done; yet the expedition has collected some valuable specimens in each of the kingdoms of natural history, and I hope to obtain means and authority to have them properly described and illustrated.

I have mentioned in various parts of my report the names of persons who have assisted me by counsel or information. I shall close it with the name of the last, the ablest, and the best. Whatever of interest and value may be found in the report, is mainly attributable to the guiding judgment and cheering heart of my friend and kinsman, M. F. Maury.

APPENDIX.
NOTES.

The elevations due to the atmospheric pressure, as indicated by the barometer, are extracted from tables calculated, after the complete formula of La Place, by M. F. Delcros, contained in a volume of meteorological tables prepared by Arnold Guyot, and published by the Smithsonian Institution.

Those due the indications of the boiling-point apparatus are taken from a table in the same volume, calculated by Regnault, from his "Tables of forces of vapor," published in the Annales de Physique et de Chimie, t. xiv, p. 206.

The height of the barometer at the level of the sea is assumed at 30.00, and the temperature of the air at 65° Fah.

I have added a column of heights, measured with the barometer by Don Mariano Rivero, at places where they compare with mine.

At the pass of Antarangra we took our observations on the summit of a hill about two hundred feet above the road at its highest point.

Morococha is situated near the line of perpetual snow, on the eastern slope of the western chain of the Andes.

Tingo Maria is the place of embarcation on the Huallaga. The distance from Callao to this point, by our route, is 337 miles. The distance hence to the Atlantic is 3,662. If we add to these sums the 90 miles of travel from Tarma to Fort San Ramon and back, with the 626 from the mouth of the Ucayali to Sarayacu and back, we shall have the whole distance travelled over—4,715 miles.

TABLE OF APPROXIMATE HEIGHTS AND DISTANCES FROMCALLAO TO THE ATLANTIC.
Names of places.Dist-
ance.
Barometer.Boiling Point.Thermo-
meter.
Height, in feet.Height by Rivero-baro-
meter.
Callao . . . 30.000 212 65 . . . . . .
Lima 6 29.528 . . . 75 476 .505
Pacayar 12 28.580 . . . 61 10,346. . .
Yanacoto 10 27.568 . . . 57 2,337. . .
Coca Chacra 16 25.574 . . . 58 4,452. . .
Moyoc 15 23.027 . . . 50 7,306 . . .
Do. 15 23.027 198.25 50 7,380. . .
San Mateo 13 20.843 . . . 59 10,200 10.232
Do. . . . 20.843 193.25 59 10,128. . .
Acchahuarcu 9 . . . 188.3 33 12,898. . .
Lower edge of snow on western slope 3 17.836 . . . 49 14,300. . .
Pass of Antarangra 3 16.730 . . . 43 16,044 15.758
Do. . . . 16.730 182.5 43 16,199. . .
Morococha 4 17.700 . . . 46 14,409. . .
Pachachaca 9 . . . 188.5 40 12,786. . .
Oroya 12 19.542 . . . 36 11,654 12.270
Do. . . . 19.542 190.2 36 11,825. . .
Tarma 18 21.144 . . . 55 9,738 10.092
Do. . . . 21.144 193.9 55 9,770. . .
Palca 11 21.972 . . . 43 8,512. . .
Matichacra 12 23.292 . . . 61 7,091. . .
Huacapishtana 4 24.482 . . . 60 5,687. . .
Challuapuquio 12 26.804 . . . 68 3,192. . .
Fort San Ramon 6 27.406 . . . 76 2,605 . . .
Do. . . . 27.406 206.5 . . . 2,953. . .
From Tarma to Palcamayo 15 . . . 192.5 37 10,539. . .
Junin 18 . . . 188.2 32 12,947 13.330
Ninacacca 18 . . . 187.8 40 13,171. . .
Cerro Pasco 17 . . . 188.7 45 13,802 14.279
Chiquirin 12 . . . 190.7 54 11,512. . .
San Rafael 18 . . . 196.1 62 8,551 8.791
Huanuco 35 . . . 200.9 65 5,946 6.284
Chullqui 8 . . . 201.5 67 5,626. . .
Acomayo 6 . . . 198 74 7,518. . .
Cashi 12 . . . 199.8 58 6,540. . .
Atajo 10 . . . 204.7 71 3,910. . .
Chihuangala 8 . . . 205.6 74 3,421. . .
La Cueva 20 . . . 206.5 76 2,944. . .
Tingo Maria 10 . . . 207.8 75 2,260. . .
Tocache 174 . . . 209.1 77 1,579. . .
Sion 58 . . . 209.7 80 1,269
Lupuna 58 . . . 210 84 1,109. . .
Chasuta 87 . . . 210.5 82 846. . .
Sta. Cruz 220 . . . 211.2 85 490. . .
Nauta 353 . . . 211.3 74 434. . .
Pebas 197 . . . 211.1 . . . 537. . .
Egas 707 . . . 208.2 88 2,052. . .
River Bank 131 . . . 208.4 84 1,947. . .
Do. 60 . . . 208.5 82 1,890. . .
Do. 168 . . . 208.6 76 1,834. . .
Do. 50 . . . 208.8 78 1,740. . .
Barra 14 . . . 209.3 81 1,475. . .
Mouth of Madeira 104 . . . 209.8 80 1,212. . .
Villa Nova 209 . . . 210.3 76 959. . .
Santarem 220 . . . 210.5 78 846. . .
Para 759 . . . 211.5 80 331. . .
Do. . . . 29.708 . . . 81 320. . .
Sea 93 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
From mouth of Ucayali to Sarayacu 313 . . . 210.3 82 868. . .

METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL.
Place.Approx. height.Date.Time.Thermo-
meter.
Remarks.
A.W.W. B.
Feet.1851. ° ° °
Palcamayo10,500 July 1 6 p.m. 56 . . . . . . Calm; sky white and beautifully clear.
Do.10,500 2 6 a.m.37 . . . 34 Remarkably clear.
Road 11,000 2 8½ a.m.45 53* . . . *Temperature of a spring issuing from the rock.
Junin 13,000 2 6½ p.m.45 . . . . . . Light westerly breeze; light cirrus clouds.
Do. 13,000 3 7 a.m.32 . . . 28 Clear and calm; stratus clouds covering the Andes.
Road 13,000 3 12½ 46 . . . . . . Snow squall, small round flakes; wind variable from northward and westward to northward and eastward; western Cordillera in the sunshine, the eastern covered with storm.
Ninaccaca 13,200 3 6 p.m.40 . . . 36 Beautiful night; light air from the westward.
Do. 13,200 4 6 a.m.39 . . . . . . Calm; ground covered with hoar frost.
Cerro de Pasco 13,800 9 Noon 45 . . . . . . Hail and snow; wind from northward and eastward.
Do. 13,800 10 10 a.m.46 . . . 40
Do. 13,800 10 5 p.m.42 . . . 38 Clear and calm.
Do. 13,800 10 10 p.m.37 . . . 34
Do. 13,800 11 8 a.m.40 . . . 36 Light airs from northward and westward; cloudy.
Do. 13,800 11 10 p.m.39 . . . 36 Cloudy.
Do. 13,800 12 8 a.m.39 . . . 36 Light cirrus clouds.
Do. 13,800 12 Noon 44 . . . 37
Do. 13,800 12 6 p.m.40 . . . 35 Wind northward and eastward; heavy stratus clouds; light snow.
Do. 13,800 12 10 p.m.37 . . . 34
Chiquirin 11,500 13 8 a.m.39 . . . 36 Calm; light cirrus clouds.
San Rafael 8,400 14 6 p.m.62
Do. 8,400 15 7 a.m.56
Huanuco 6,000 17 4 p.m.71 . . . . . . Clear; strong breeze from north, which always sets in, at this season, about noon, and ceases about dark.
Do. 6,000 18 9 a.m.65 . . . 57½
Do. 6,000 18 9 p.m.69
Do. 6,000 19 9 a.m.64 . . . 56 Clear; calm.
Do. 6,000 19 9 p.m.68½
Do. 6,000 20 9 a.m.63 . . . 55
Do. 6,000 21 9 a.m.65 . . . 58½ Cloudy, with appearance of rain; light breeze from the northward.
Chullqui 5,600 22 7 p.m.67 . . . . . . Light breeze from northward and eastward; half cloudy.
Road 5,500 2310 a.m. 72 62*. . . *Mountain stream; cirrus clouds.
Acomayo 7,500 2311 a.m. 74
Near top of Cerro de Carpis 8,000 232½ p.m.67 51*. . . *A spring in the woods.
Casha 6,500 237 p.m. 58 . . . . . . Calm; cloudy to the south; night quite cool.
Do 6,500 246 a.m. 52 . . . . . . Clear and calm.
Atajo 4,000 245 p.m. 71 . . . 67 Cirro-cumulus clouds; calm.
Do . . . 257 a.m.61
Chihuan-
gala
3,500 255 p.m. 74.5
Do 3,500 26. . . . . . . . . . . . Heavy rain.
Do 3,500 272 p.m. 78 . . . 72 Cumulus clouds; calm.
Do 3,500 288 a.m. 64 . . . . . . Calm; cirro-cumulus, rained all the latter part of the night.
Do 3,500 298 a.m. 67 . . . 67 Calm; cloudy.
Do 3,500 291 p.m. 78 . . . . . . Breeze northerly; heavy clouds and thunder to the northward.
Do 3,500 298 p.m. 69 . . . . . . Calm; cloudy.
Do 3,500 309 a.m. 69 . . . . . . Calm; clear.
Do 3,500 303 p.m. . . . . . . . . . Heavy shower of rain, with thunder; most of the rain clouds came from the north.
Chinchay-
vitoc
. . . 318 a.m.70. . . . . . Half cloudy.
Do. . . 3111 a.m.7167*. . . *Mountain stream.
La Cueva 3,000 315 p.m. 76 68*. . . *Huallaga river.
On the road . . . Aug. 17 a.m.74. . . . . . Cloudy; close and hot in the woods.
Tingo Maria 2,200 29 a.m. 75 . . . . . . River at Tingo Maria 100 yards broad, 2¾ fathoms deep; smooth and unbroken.
Do 2,200 27 p.m. 72 . . . 71 Cloudy; light breeze from the northward.
Do 2,200 38 a.m. 72 . . . . . . Calm; cloudy; had been showery during the night.
Do 2,200 34 p.m. 82 . . . 76

METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL—Continued.
Place.Date.Time.Thermo-
meter.
Wind.Remarks.
A.W.W. B.
1851.˚˚˚
Huallaga River Aug. 43 p.m. 8472. . .. . .Many obstructions from pebbly shoals, small rocky islets, and drift-wood.
Do.48 p.m. 78. . .. . .Southward.Lt. breeze; cloudy; river not navigable for anything but a canoe.
Do.57 a.m. 75. . . 70Calm. Cloudy; river 60 yards broad; smooth; current 3 miles; depth 1½ fathom; pebbly bottom.
Do.55 p.m.. . .. . .. . .. . .Heavy clouds, with thunder and lightning in the northwest; during the night a fresh puff of wind from that direction; passed several rapids to-day; also through a hilly country, which accounts for the stormy weather.
Do.66 a.m. 70 71.5 70Westward.Light breeze and light rain; river to-day free from rapids, with some obstructions from drift-wood between the islands; average depth 2½ fathoms; average current 1½ mile; passed a range of hills on the right; mountains in sight, bearing from northwest to west; heavy cumulus clouds in the northeast, with thunder; thick stratus clouds in northwest.
Do.65 p.m. 78 76
Do.77 a.m.71.5. . .71.5 Calm. Cloudy; upper stratum, light cirrus clouds; lower, cirro-cumulus, moving to southwest; river 50 yards broad; current 3¼ miles; depth 2¾ fathoms.
Do.7 Noon. . .. . .. . . N. and W. Breeze light; heavy clouds in the north, with thunder; passed one or two salt streams and several rapids; rain all night.
Tocache87 p.m. 73. . .. . .Calm. Cirrus clouds.
Do.9 Noon77 75.5 73Calm. Cumulus clouds.
Do.93 p.m. 79. . .. . .. . .Squall from the northward, with rain.
Do.107 a.m. 6873 66.5. . .Cloudy; mist rising from from the river and hanging on the hills.
Do.101 p.m. 82
Do.105 p.m. 82. . .. . .Northward.Squall of wind from the northward, with a short shower of rain.
Do.118 a.m. 707468Calm. Misty.
Do.111 p.m. 82. . .. . .. . .Heavy clouds, with thunder, to the northward and eastward.
Do.116 p.m. 83
Do.119 p.m. 79
Do.128 a.m. 6974 68.5Calm. Cloudy; river here 50 yards broad, 3 fathoms deep; smart shower, from the southward and eastward, between 1 and 2 p.m.; passed several rapids, which make the river innavigable; rain all night.
Huallaga River 138 a.m. 76. . .. . .Calm River 70 yards broad, with 4 miles of current; many rapids.
Sion135 p.m. 80
Do.148 a.m. 71. . . 70Calm Clear.
Do.141 p.m. 84. . .. . .. . .Cumulus clouds to the eastward.
Do.148 p.m. 74. . . 70Calm Clear.
Huallaga159 a.m. 70. . .. . .. . .Passed to-day several dangerous rapids, effectual bars to navigation.
Do.168 a.m. 76. . .. . .Northward Light breeze; at noon entered the mouth of the Huayabamba; 100 yards broad; shallow; clear water; pebbly bottom; rapid current.
Lupuna166 p.m. 84. . . 76. . .Clear; river to-day broad and shallow; current 3¾ miles; left Lupuna at 10½ a.m.
Huallaga River177 a.m.74.5. . .70.5N. and E. Light air; light clouds; soon dissipated by the sun; at 11¼ passed abreast the town of Juan Juy; at 1 passed the mouth of river Sapo; 50 yards broad; muddy; hilly country; heavy clouds and rain. This is always the case where a range of hills rises above the plain. The Indians speak of "Cerros mui bravos," to indicate the fierceness of the weather about them. Arrived at Juan Comas at 5 p.m.
Juan Comas187 a.m. 7074. . . Northward Light breeze; thick mist; left Juan Comas at 7.30 a.m.
Huallaga River1811 a.m. 8276. . . Northward Sun 108°; cumulus clouds; at 2¼ passed the mouth of river Mayo, coming in on the left between moderately high hills, about 30 yards broad. Just above the Mayo the Huallaga contracts to 40 yards, with 5 and 6 fathoms of depth, and a current of 4¼ miles per hour. At 2.20 arrived at Shapaja, the port of Tarrapoto.
Shapaja186 p.m. 74. . . 72N. and E.
Do.19. . .. . .. . .. . .. . .Rained in showers all the morning.
Tarrapoto 20 Noon78
Shapaja227 a.m. 7577. . .. . .Left Shapaja at 8½ a.m.; passed the malos pasos of the Pongo or Strait of Chasuta. These are called Estero, Canoayacu, Matijuelo, and Chumia, and are the most difficult of the river. At 2.20 p.m. arrived at Chasuta.
Chasuta234 p.m. 82. . . 77
Do.248 a.m. 74. . .69.5Northward Light air; misty. It seems very generally misty in the morning, but the clouds yield to the sun about 10 a.m. Cumulus clouds in the horizon.
Do.24Noon79
Do.247 p.m. 76. . .. . .Eastward
Huallaga River25 Noon8676. . .. . .Left Shapaja at 11 a.m.; river below Shapaja flows through the pongo; narrow, tranquil, and deep; country generally flat, with a few hills here and there. At 3¼ p. m. entered a more hilly country; river narrow, shallow, and rapid, about 40 yards wide, with 2½ fathoms of depth, and about 5 miles of current.
Do.256 p.m. 75. . .. . .Calm.
Do.266 a.m. 7676. . .. . .Started at 5½ a.m. misty morning; rain from 4 to 5; shores of the river hilly and bold; 9½ fathoms water; hard bottom. At 6¼ passed the end of the Pongo de Chasuta, and entered a flat country where the river spreads out very wide, and has many small islands. In passing the channels between these islands we had but from 3 to 5 feet water, pebbly bottom, current very rapid; passed these sandy flats in an hour, and found the river 150 yards broad, without obstruction, with 3½ fathoms depth, and a velocity of only 2 miles the hour. Here I take to be the head of navigation on this river. Passed the mouth of the Chipurana; the first musquitoes; much dew.
Do.266 p.m. 78
Do.276 a.m. 7476. . . Eastward Light breeze; foggy; saw light-colored porpoises; a small seal; got turtle-eggs; cumulus clouds; sun 102.
Do.27 Noon. . .. . .. . . N. and E.
Do.277 p.m. 75. . .. . .Calm. Clear; heavy dew; no rocks or stones since passing the pongo.
Do.286 a.m. 7078. . . Calm. Clear; started at 6; arrived at Yurimaguas at 8¾; left at 11½.
Do.284 p.m. 87. . .. . .. . .Current 2¼ miles the hour; large sand islands in the river.
Do.287 p.m. 82. . .. . .Calm. Clear; much dew.
Do.296 a.m. 7079. . . Calm. Clear.
Do.298 a.m. 76. . .. . .Eastward Light breeze;cirrus clouds.Stopped at 5 p.m.on a sand beach on the right bank. This beach stretches out into the river and occupies nearly its whole bed, leaving a narrow channel between it and the left shore, where I found but 5 feet water, though there is probably more depth very close in shore. The beach belongs to what is an island when the river is full, but the right-hand channel is now dry. At 6 p.m.fresh squall of wind and rain from the northward and eastward.
Do.29Noon84. . .. . .Northward. Cumulus clouds; sun 110.
Do.296 p.m. 82. . .. . .N. and E.
Huallaga306 a.m. 72. . .. . .N. and W. Light breeze; stratus clouds.
Sta. Cruz30Noon85
Do.308 p.m. 80. . .. . .. . .Heavy dew.
Huallaga316 a.m. 76. . .. . .Calm. Cloudy and misty.
Do. Sept. 16 a.m. 7480. . . Calm. Misty.
Do.1Noon87. . .. . .N. and E. Heavy clouds and rain both in the northeast and southwest with an occasional spit at us.
Do.12 p.m. 85. . .. . .N. and E.
Laguna28 a.m. 74. . .. . .. . .Rain all the morning in showers.
Do.24 p.m. 83. . .. . .. . .At night clear; much dew.
Do.3 6 a.m. 75. . .. . .Calm Cloudy; left Laguna at 9¼ a.m.; arrived at mouth of Huallaga at 4 p.m.; it flows into the Marañon in a southeast direction. There are several islands at the the mouth. The channel runs near the left bank and has 7¼ fathoms.
Do.3 10 a.m.. . .81
Do.3 4 p m. 8082
Amazon4 6 a.m. 7480. . . N. and E. Light breeze; cloudy; shores of Amazon low; water very muddy; many shovel-nosed porpoises in the river. At noon heavy clouds; squally appearances, with rain.
Do.4 Noon75. . .. . .Northward.
Do.5 6 a.m. 7480. . . Eastward Light breeze; cloudy and misty; current 2 miles per hour.
Do.5 3 p.m. 84. . .. . .Calm Cumulus clouds; saw several small seals.
Do.5 6 p.m. 80. . .. . .Eastward Light breeze; clear.
Do.6 6 a.m. 7480. . . N. and E. Clouded up at 2 a.m.; squall of wind and rain from the northward and eastward, with thunder and lightning; cleared up at 4; at 2½ p.m. sharp squall of wind and rain.
Do.6 2½ p.m. 76. . .. . .N. and E.
Do.7 6 a.m. 7280. . . S. and E. Foggy; sun shone out at 7 a.m.
Do.7 Noon84. . .. . .N. and E. Light breeze; cumulus clouds; at 3 p.m. squall of wind and rain from the northward and eastward.
Do.8 6 a.m. 7480. . . Calm. At 4½ a.m. squall of wind, rain, thunder and lightning, from the eastward.
Do.8 Noon82. . .. . .S. and E. Heavy cumulus clouds in the north.
Do.8 4 p.m. 74. . .. . .N. and E. Squall of wind and heavy rain, with thunder and lightning.
Do.9 6 a.m. 7280
Do.9 1 p.m. 82. . .. . .N. and E. Light breeze; cumulus clouds.
Nauta9. . .. . .. . .. . .. . .In afternoon heavy clouds, with thunder in the west; clear night.
Do.10 6½ a.m. 71. . . 71Northward Light breeze; thin clouds.
Do.11 6½ a.m. 74. . .. . .. . .Thin cirrus clouds.
Do.11 Noon84. . .81. . .Heavy cumulus clouds; hot sun.
Do.12 6 a.m. 76. . . 73. . .Thin cirrus clouds; misty about the horizon.
Do.12 Noon84. . . 81Eastward Heavy cumulus clouds; powerful sun; shower of rain at 2 p.m.
Do.13 7 a.m. 74. . . 73. . .Light clouds and mist; soon dissipated by the sun; showers of rain at 2 p.m. and at 7.
Do.14 6½ a.m. 73. . . 72Calm Cloudy.
Do.14 Noon84. . . 83. . .Cumulus clouds; two squalls, with showers, in the afternoon—one from southward and the other, and strongest, from northward and eastward.
Do.15 7 a.m. 76. . .. . .Westward The first perfectly clear morning we have seen since entering the Amazon; at 1 p. m. cumulus clouds; shower at 2½.
Do.15 1 p.m. 86. . . 82
Do.16 9 a.m. 82. . .. . .. . .Rain; river rose 2 inches since 6 p. m. yesterday.
Do.17 9 a.m. 78. . .. . .. . .Clear; river rose 10 inches in the last 24 hours.
Do.17 1 p.m. 87. . . 80½. . .Cumulus clouds, with thunder.
Do.17 9½ p.m. 75. . .. . .. . .Rain.
Do.18 9 a.m. 75. . .. . .Eastward Light breeze; cirrus clouds; river rose 10 inches.
Do.19 11 a.m 82. . . 76Calm Clear all night; river rose 5 inches from 6 p. m. yesterday to 8 a. m.; light cirro-cumulus clouds.
Do.20 9½ a.m. 81. . . 77S. and E. Clear.
Do.20 3 p.m. 89. . . 79Southward Cumulus clouds round the horizon.
Do.20 9 p.m. 78. . .. . .Calm Light clouds.
Do.21 9 a.m. 81. . .. . .Calm Cloudy.
Do.21 8 p.m. 76. . .. . .. . .Lightning; heavy squall of wind and rain from southward and eastward; much rain during the night; river rose 2½ inches in the 24 hours.
Do.22 9 a.m. 77. . .. . .Calm Cloudy; river rose 5 inches.
Do.23 9 a.m. 78. . . 75S. and E. Light breeze; clear last night; river rising.
Do.23 3 p.m. 88. . . 79. . .At 4 p. m. strong squall of wind from southward and eastward.
Do.23 9 p.m. 74. . .. . .Calm Cloudy.
Do.24 10 a.m. 81. . . 74Eastward Light breeze; cloudy; river rose 3½ inches.
Do.25. . .. . .. . .. . .. . .Left Nauta at 12¼; shores of the river low and thickly covered with trees; heavy cumulus clouds; showers of rain. At 1¼ entered the Ucayali; ¼ mile wide; low green banks; 2 fathoms' depth close to the left bank; current 2 miles per hour.
Ucayali26 6 a.m. 7683. . . Calm Light cirrus clouds.
Do.26 Noon82. . .. . .S. and E. Cumulus clouds; hot sun.
Do.26 5½ p.m. 78. . .. . .N. and E. Squall of wind and rain.
Do.27 6 a.m. 78. . .. . .Calm Misty; rained all night.
Do.27 Noon8283. . .. . .At 1 rain squall from northward and eastward.
Do.27 3 p.m. 80. . .. . .N. and E. Moderate breeze; cumulus clouds; current 2 miles.
Do.28 8 a.m. 7882. . . Calm Cloudy, with rain.
Do.28 Noon76. . .. . .Northward Moderate breeze.
Do.28 6 p.m. 79. . .. . .N. and E. Current 1½ mile.
Do.29 6½ a.m. 7481. . . Calm Cloudy; had moderate breeze from northward nearly all night.
Do.29 3 p.m. 81. . .. . .N. and E. Moderate breeze; rain shower.
Do.29 4 p.m.. . .. . .. . .S. and W. Fitful breeze; heavy nimbus clouds in all directions.
Do.30 6 a.m. 76. . .. . .N. and W. Light breeze; cloudy.
Do.30 3 p.m.. . .. . .. . .N. and E. Squall of wind and heavy shower.
Do.30 6 p.m. 7782. . . N. and E. Moderate breeze; stratus clouds; cumuloni in southwest.
Do. Oct. 1 6½ a.m. 76. . .. . .. . .Misty morning.
Do.1 1 p.m. 88. . .. . .S. by E. Fresh breeze; wind changed to northward and eastward; in a squall of heavy rain; thunder and lightning.
Do.2 10 a.m. 7782½ 76Calm Cloudy.
Do.2 Noon. . .. . .. . .N. and E.Heavy shower.
Do.3 8 a.m. 7581. . .CalmThin clouds; light cirro-cumulus clouds; hot all day.
Do.3 5 p.m. 86
Do.4 6 a.m. 7881. . .. . .Clear all night; much dew.
Do.4 3 p.m. 87. . .. . .Eastward Light breeze; small cumulus clouds round the horizon; sun 103½.
Do.5 7 a.m. 70. . .. . .Calm Clear; river rose 6 inches from 8½ p.m. to 5 this morning; clear all night.
Do.5 2 p.m. 8884. . . Calm Cumulus clouds; sun 108; current 2¼ miles.
Do.6 7 a.m. 7883. . . Southward Light breeze; light cirro stratus clouds.
Do.6 12½85. . .. . .EastwardCumulus clouds; at 2 p.m. squall of wind and rain; at 3 wind changed to southwest; steady rain; current 2½ miles.
Do.6 5 p.m. 76. . .. . .Southward
Do.7 6 a.m. 78. . .. . .S. and E. Cloudy.
Do.7 2 p.m. 84. . .. . .N. and E. Light breeze; sun 106; river ½ mile broad; rising fast; trunks of trees beginning to come down the stream.
Do.8 6 a.m. 7782. . .. . .At 2½ p.m. squall of wind, shifting suddenly to all points and settling at southwest; heavy nimbus clouds.
Do.8 2 p.m. 85
Do.9 4½ p.m. 84. . .. . .Calm Cirro-cumulus clouds; river rose 2 inches last night.
Do.10 6 a.m. 7680. . . Calm Thick mist; river fell last night.
Do.10 9 a.m. 78. . .. . .Calm Cumulus clouds; sun oppressive.
Do.10 4 p.m. 87. . .. . .Calm Clear; current 3¼ miles; much dew.
Do.11 5 a.m.. . .. . .. . .N. and W. Light breeze; partial stratus clouds.
Do.11 1 p.m. 85. . .. . .N. and E. Rain showers; at 2½ fresh wind from the northward, with rain; sharp lightning in the northeast; at night clouds round the horizon; distant lightning and thunder in the north and north-west.
Do.12 7 a.m. 7983. . . Westward Light breeze; cloudy.
Do.12 1 p.m. 83. . .. . .Northward Squall of wind and rain; at 2 calm; heavy rolling thunder in the northwest; at 3 fresh breeze from northward and westward; more rain.
Do.13 6 a.m. 76. . .. . .Calm Cloudy.
Do.13 Noon.80. . .. . .S. and E. Moderate breeze, with showers; thunder.
Do.13 3 p.m. 79. . .. . .N. and W. Moderate breeze; thunder.
Do.13 6 p.m. 78. . .. . .N. and E. Light breeze; thick clouds.
Do.14 7 a.m. 7480. . . Southward Light breeze; cirrus clouds.
Do.14 2½ p.m. 84. . .. . .Calm Cloudy.
Do.14 6 p.m. 82. . .. . .Westward Light breeze; heavy clouds in the west; saw the hills about Sarayacu.
Do.15 7 a.m. 78. . .. . .Southward Light breeze; thin clouds; river commenced its regular rise; stopped to breakfast at Tierra Blanca; night cool and cloudy; southerly wind.
Do.16 6 a.m. 69. . .. . .Southward Cloudy; smart cool breeze.
Do.16 Noon.75. . . 72S. and E. Cumulus stratus clouds.
Do.16 5½ p.m. 80. . .. . .Southward Light breeze; stratus clouds; opposite mouth of river Catalina.
Do.17 7 a.m. 7880. . . Southward Light breeze; cirrus clouds; warm and close night.
Do.17 Noon.80. . . 78Southward Light breeze; cirrus clouds overhead; cumuli around the horizon.
Do.17 6 p.m. 83. . .. . .N. and W. Light air; stratus clouds. The sky of the Ucayali is frequently very soft, rich, and beautiful, after sunset.
Do.18 6 a.m. 78
Do.18 11 a.m. 82. . .. . .N. and E. Moderate breeze; cumulus clouds; rain shower in southwest. Entered the caño of Sarayacu. It is about 15 or 20 feet wide and quite deep. About a mile from the entrance, the caño, or arm of the river, receives a small stream, which runs about a mile per hour. The water is clear; its temperature 78, with the air at 84. It is obstructed with the roots and branches of trees, and we had to drag our canoes 2 or 3 miles up the stream to Sarayacu.
Sarayacu19 8½ a.m. 76. . . 74Calm Large, watery, but light clouds.
Do.19 Noon.82. . . 79½S. and E.Light breeze.
Do.19 5 p.m. 82. . .. . .N. and W. Moderate breeze; shower of rain—large drops.
Do.20 9 a.m. 76½. . .76Calm Cloudy; at noon light rain.
Do.20 3 p.m. 80. . . 78Calm Clear overhead; cirro-cumulus clouds around the horizon.
Do.20 9 p.m. 76. . .. . .Calm Cirro-cumulus clouds; rain during the night.
Do.21 9 a.m. 78. . . 76½S. and W. Light air; cumulus clouds.
Do.21 Noon.80½. . .78Southward Cumulus clouds, with light rain showers.
Do.21 3 p.m. 84. . . 80Southward Cumulus clouds.
Do.21 6 p.m. 82. . . 81Calm Clear.
Do.22 Noon.84½. . .81½N. and E. Heavy cumulus clouds; thunder in the west.
Do.22 3 p.m. 79½. . .. . . N. and E. Gusts of wind, with heavy rain clouds.
Do.22 6 p.m. 78. . .. . .Calm Clear overhead; cirro stratus clouds in the horizon.
Do.23 9 a.m. 74½. . .. . . Calm Rain.
Do.23 Noon.78. . . 77½Calm Clouds, with occasional showers.
Do.24 9 a.m.77. . . 77Calm Rain all the morning.
Do.24 Noon.78. . .. . .Calm Cumulus clouds in the horizon.
Do.24 3 p.m. 79. . .. . .S. and W. Fresh breeze, with thunder; shower coming up.
Do.25 9 a.m. 74. . . 73½Eastward Light breeze; stratus clouds; heavy thunder storm, with rain, lasting about an hour in the afternoon.
Do.26 10 a.m. 76. . . 74½S. and W.
Do.27 9 a.m. 77. . .. . .Calm Cirro-cumulus clouds. River of Sarayacu has risen 7 feet since our arrival; rose, last night, 10 inches.
Do.27 Noon.78½. . .77S. and W.
Do.27 3 p.m. 79. . . 77Calm Cumulus clouds in the horizon.
Do.28 9 a.m. 78. . . 76½ Calm First clear night since our arrival in Sarayacu. Left Sarayacu at 10½ a.m. The river of Sarayacu is quite full, but we met with some obstructions from the thick grass and water growth, and from the branches of small trees overhanging the stream. Found the Ucayali much swollen, and nearly covered with drift-wood. Depth here in mid-stream 8 fathoms.
Do.28 6 p.m. 827877½ N.and E.
Ucayali29 9 a.m. 827981N. and E. Moderate breeze; thin cirrus clouds.
Do.29 Noon82. . .. . .N. N. W. Moderate breeze; cumulus clouds about the horizon.
Do.29 6 p.m. 79. . .. . .N. and E. Heavy clouds; rain coming up.
Do.30 7 a.m. 76. . .. . .N. and E. Light breeze; cirro-stratus clouds.
Do.30 Noon8278½ 79½ N. and E. Cumulus clouds; thunder.
Do.30 3 p.m. 84. . .. . .E. S. E. Moderate breeze. At 3½ wind changed to northeast, and brought up rain.
Do.30 5 p.m. 77. . .. . .N. and E. Fresh cool wind, with rain.
Do.31 7 a.m. 78. . .. . .S. and E. Light air; cirro-stratus clouds.
Do.31 Noon817980Northward Moderate breeze; cirro-cumulus clouds.
Do.31 3 p.m. 82. . .. . .Calm Heavy rain clouds, with thunder, in the northwest.
Do.31 6 p.m.. . .. . .. . .NorthwestLight rain; sharp lightning in the northwest.
Do.Nov. 1 3 p.m. 76. . .. . .S. and E. Rain all day; examined a pole planted at the village of Guanache as we went up on October 7th; found that the river had risen 9 feet 7 inches in the interim, though it fell a little between October 7th and 15th.
Do.2 7 a.m. 72. . .. . .Eastward Light breeze; light, moist, misty clouds low down; cirro-stratus clouds above; 72° is the least we have yet had the mercury in the Montaña.
Do.2 9 a.m. 73. . . 73Eastward
Do.3 7 a.m. 76. . . 75N. and W. Cirro-stratus clouds; current 3 miles the hour.
Do.3 3 p.m. 83. . .. . .N. and W. Fresh breeze and rain squall.
Do.4 9 a.m. 79. . .. . .Northward Fine breeze; clear sky; entered the Marañon.
Do.4 10 a.m. 837980½. . .Had 3 hours from mouth of Ucayali to Nauta.
Amazon5 5½ p.m.. . .. . .. . .Calm Clear; sailed from Nauta; sounded in mid-stream off mouth of Ucayali; 6 and 7 fathoms; hard sand; river 1½ mile wide below island of Omaguas.
Omaguas6 9 a.m. 81. . .. . .Calm
Amazon6 11 a.m.. . .. . .. . .N. and E. Moderate breeze; cumulus clouds; ¾ of a mile broad; anchored near mid-stream in 14 fathoms water, and found 2½ miles current; shores of the river thickly wooded with apparently small trees.
Do.6 Noon868183N. and E.
Do.6 3 p.m. 87. . . 82
Do.6 6 p.m. 84½. . .. . . Westward Light breeze; heavy cumulo-stratus clouds in the northwest.
Iquitos7 9 a.m. 82. . .. . .. . .Cumulus clouds about the horizon; cirrus overhead.
Amazon7 Noon868280½ N. and E. Moderate breeze; cumulus clouds.
Do.7 3 p.m. 87. . .. . .N. and E. River at Tinicuro contracts (within its true banks) to ½ a mile; I had no bottom with 25 fathoms; stopped at Pucallpa.
Do.8 3 p.m. 8582. . . N. and E. Moderate breeze; cumulus clouds; mouth of Napo 150 yards broad; gentle current; soundings across the mouth 6 and 7 fathoms; current in the Amazon, just below mouth of Napo, 1¾ mile.
Do.8 6 p.m. 84
Do.9 9 a.m. 80. . . 77½ N. and E. Moderate breeze; cumulus clouds; arrived at Pebas.
Pebas, or Eche-
nique
10 9 a.m. 76. . . 75½ Eastward Light breeze; cumulo-stratus clouds, threatening rain; squall of rain, thunder, and lightning, from the westward, last night.
Eche-
nique
10 Noon79½. . .. . . Southward Light breeze; clouds breaking up into cumuli; heavy shower in the afternoon.
Do.10 9 p.m. 77. . .. . .. . .Thunder clouds in the north, but settling down.
Do.11 9 a.m. 77. . . 76S. and E.Moderate breeze; cumulus clouds; clearing up; wind and rain from northward last night.
Do.11 6 p.m. 76. . .. . .Calm Cloudy.
Do.11 10 p.m. 74
Do.12 8 a.m. 76. . .. . .Calm A few cirrus clouds.
Do.12 Noon82. . . 80Eastward Moderate breeze; much rain during the night.
Do.13 9 a.m. 75. . . 75Calm Lowering cumulo-stratus clouds.
Do.13 Noon80. . .. . .Calm Thin clouds.
Do.13 6 p.m. 77½. . .. . . Westward Moderate breeze.
Do.13 9 p.m. 76. . .. . .Calm Cloudy.
Do.14 Noon81. . . 78N. and E. Moderate breeze; cumulo-stratus clouds.
San José de los Yaguas16 3 p.m. 83. . . 79Northward Cumulus clouds. The atmosphere here seems drier than on the banks of the river. We had few musquitoes, through the padre says there are plenty here generally. This little village is about 12 miles ENE of Echenique. The atmosphere seemed particularly clear at night.
Do.17 10 a.m. 78. . . 76
Echenique 19 9 a.m. 73. . . 72Westward Moderate breeze.
Do.19 Noon76. . .. . .Westward Light air; cloudy.
Do.19 7 p.m. 76. . .. . .Calm Cirro-stratus clouds.
Do.20 7 a.m. 73. . .. . .Calm Cirrus clouds; the Amazon has fallen considerably during the last two or three days.
Do.20 9 a.m. 76. . . 76S. and E.
Do.20 6 p.m. 82. . .. . .Westward Light breeze; heavy rain during the night.
Do.21 3 p.m. 80. . .. . .Eastward Light breeze; clear overhead; cumulus clouds about the horizon.
Do.21 10 p.m. 75. . .. . .Calm Clear; lightning in the west.
Do.22 9 a.m. 75. . .. . .N. and W. Light breeze; clear.
Do.22 Noon83. . . 77N. and E. Fresh breeze.
Do. 22 6 p.m. 82½. . .. . . Northward Light breeze; at 9 p.m. thermometer 78°; calm.
Do.23 9 a.m. 77. . . 74½ Calm Clear.
Do.23 3 p.m. 86½. . .80½ N. and E. Fresh breeze; cumulus clouds.
Do.23 6 p.m. 82½. . .. . . Calm Clear.
Do.23 10 p.m. 79. . .. . .Calm Clear.
Do.24 10 a.m. 79. . . 77½ Eastward Light breeze; clear.
Do.24 3 p.m. 85. . .. . .Westward Moderate breeze, after a shower of rain.
Do.24 6 p.m. 77. . .. . .Calm Cloudy, after squall of wind and heavy rain from northeast.
Do.24 10 p.m. 76. . .. . .Calm Rain.
Do.25 10 a.m. 75. . .. . .Northward Light breeze; stratus clouds; much heavy rain during the night.
Do.25 4 p.m. 80½. . .77N. and E. Light breeze; clear.
Do.26 9 a.m. 76. . .. . .Calm Light rain. Very heavy rain during the night. At 1½ p.m. sailed from Echenique. This little town is situated on a small stream called Ambiyacu, about ¼ of a mile from its mouth, and 2 miles up the main stream of the Amazon from Pebas. There is an abundance of water (5, 6, and 7 fathoms) from the mouth of the river to the town. The Amazon, below Pebas and above Sancudos islands, is a mile wide, has 11 fathoms of depth, and a current of 2½ miles per hour.
Amazon26 3 p.m. 77. . .. . .S. and E.
Do.26 6 p.m. 76. . .. . .S. and E.
Old Cochi-
quinas
27 Noon80½. . .79Calm Cloudy. The banks of the river here are abrupt, and 25 feet above the water, formed principally of a black, hard clay that looks like coal.
Amazon27 3 p.m. 85. . .. . .Calm Clear overhead; cumulus clouds about the horizon.
Do.28 4½ a.m. 73
Do.28 9 a.m. 81. . . 79S. and W. Moderate breeze; cumulo-stratus clouds.
Do.28 Noon86½. . .. . . S. and E. Light breeze; clear overhead; cumulus clouds about the horizon.
Do.28 3 p.m. 90. . .. . .Calm Thunder clouds coming up from northeast; most of the rain passed to the northward; had some wind. At 6¼ arrived at Moromoroté.
Do.28 6 p.m. 82. . . 78½ Eastward
Do.29 9 a.m. 80. . . 78½ N. and E. Light breeze; cumulus clouds round the horizon; clear overhead.
Do.29 4 p.m. 84
Caballo-cocha30 9 a.m. 79. . . 77½ Calm Cirro-cumulus clouds.
Do.30 Noon80. . .. . .. . .Sun shining through thin clouds.
Do.30 3 p.m. 83. . .. . .Westward Light breeze; cumulo-stratus clouds; heavy rain all night.
Do.Dec. 1 Noon76. . .. . .. . .Light rain.
Do.1 3 p.m. 79. . . 76Westward Light breeze; cloudy.
Do.1 6 p.m. 75. . .. . .Calm Stratus clouds; partly clear; much rain during the night.
Do.2 9 a.m. 76. . .. . .Calm Cloudy. Sailed from Caballo cocha at 2½ p.m.; arrived at Loreto at 7½. River much divided by islands, which appear to be of recent formation, and which change their size and shape with every great rise of the river.
Amazon4 6½ a.m. 76. . .. . .N. and E. Cold wind; rain. Sailed from Loreto.
Do.4 9 a.m. 818180Calm Clear; cumulus clouds about the horizon.
Do.4 Noon84. . .. . .N. and E. Light air; sun very hot.
Do.4 3 p.m. 86. . .. . .N. and E. Light air; cumulus clouds. Arrived at Tabatinga.
Tabatinga 5 Noon84. . .. . .N. and E. Moderate breeze; showery. River here straight and narrow, (½ a mile;) no islands.
Do.6 9 a.m. 79. . . 79Calm Cloudy; rain all the morning. Left Tabatinga at 1½ p.m.
Amazon7 6 a.m. 75. . .. . .Calm Cloudy. River 1½ mile wide; 11 fathoms deep in the middle, and with a current of 2¾ miles per hour.
Do.7 9 a.m. 788276Calm
Do.7 Noon80. . .. . .Calm Between 9 and noon there has been a breeze from northward and eastward, with light rain.
Do.7 3 p.m. 76½. . .. . . Northward Fresh breeze; blowing in squalls; quite a sea in the river.
Do.7 6 p.m. 75. . .. . .Northward Light air; squally appearances; severe squall during the night from the eastward.
Do.8 9 a.m. 757974S. and E. Light breeze; stratus clouds; rainy morning; rain at intervals all day.
Do.9 6 a.m. 74½. . .. . . Eastward Moderate breeze; light rain.
Do.9 1 p.m. 808178Calm Cloudy; banks of the river generally low, though there are reaches where the banks are 30 or 40 feet high, and of white or red clay.
Do.9 3 p.m. 82. . .. . .Calm
Do.9 9 p.m.. . .. . .. . .. . .Heavy rain from southward and eastward, with much thunder and lightning. At 4¼ entered the mouth of the Iça, a fine looking river of ½ a mile width at the mouth, though opening into a sort of estuary of a mile. Found 23 fathoms of depth in the middle, and a current of 3 miles the hour. The Amazon has islands in this estuary curtaining the mouth of the Iça to the southward.
Do.10 6 a.m. 75. . .. . .Northward Light breeze; light cirrus clouds. Went ½ mile up the Tunantins river to the village; river 75 yards broad, and has 5, 4, and 3 fathoms up to the town, except at the mouth, where there is a bar of but 1, running well out in to the Amazon.
Do.10 9 a.m. 80. . . 78N. and E. Light air; cirro-cumulus clouds.
Do.10 3 p.m. 81. . .. . .Eastward Light breeze; heavy threatening clouds in the northwest.
Do.11 6 a.m. 77. . .. . .Westward Light breeze; cumulo-stratus clouds.
Do.11 Noon828280Calm Cirro-cumulus clouds; at 2 squall of wind from northward and eastward, with shower.
Do.11 3 p.m. 80. . .. . .Calm Clear overhead; cumulus clouds about the horizon.
Do.12 6 a.m. 77. . .. . .Northward Light breeze; cirro-stratus clouds. The heads of the islands are generally bluff, and they tail down to low sandy points. There are many evidently new islands in the river. At 2 p.m. air 85, sun 111; heavy squall brewing in the east; came on, with rain in large drops from the northeast; fresh breeze.
Do.12 3 p.m. 82. . .. . .Calm.
Do.12 6 p.m. 81. . .. . .N. and E.
Do.13 6 a.m. 76. . .. . .N. and E. Moderate breeze; cirro-stratus clouds; quite cool.
Do.13 9 a.m. 76½ 8077S. and E. Light air; cirro-stratus clouds; went into Fonteboa.
Do.13 3 p.m. 85. . .. . .N. and E. Light breeze; cumulo-stratus clouds.
Do.14 6 a.m. 75. . .. . .S. and E. Light air; sun shining white through the mist.
Do.14 9 a.m. 798178 S. and E. Moderate breeze; cumulus clouds; at 10 entered mouth of Juruá; ½ a mile wide at the mouth; 11 fathoms deep; current 1½ mile the hour; bottom fine white and black sand; temperature of water 82.
Do.14 3 p.m. 77. . .. . .Eastward Light breeze, with light rain.
Do.15 9 a.m. 76. . .. . .S. and W. Moderate breeze, with cold rain.
Do.15 3 p.m. 83. . .. . .Calm Heavy rain, with thunder passing from south of us to the westward.
Do.16 6 a.m. 75. . .. . .S. and W. Light breeze; cirro-stratus clouds.
Do.16 9 a.m. 778176 Calm Cloudy; entered mouth of the Japurá at 3 p.m.; temperature of its water 85; ½ a mile up found 9½ fathoms, at the mouth 7; current ¾ of a mile; clear night.
Do.16 Noon80. . .. . .Calm.
Do.17 6 a.m. 74. . .. . .S. and E. Fresh breeze; cloudy; cold.
Do.17 9 a.m.. . .. . .. . .Calm Light rain; entered the river Teffé; 150 yards broad; water clear, dark-green color; very little current.
Egas18 3 p.m. 80. . . 78½N. and E. Light breeze; light cirrus clouds; cumuli about the horizon.
Do.19 9 a.m. 81. . . 78½N. and E. Light breeze; a little hazy.
Do.19 3 p.m. 84. . .. . .Eastward Moderate breeze; cumulus clouds; sun very hot.
Do.20 9 a.m. 80½. . .77 Eastward Moderate breeze; clear.
Do.20 3 p.m. 84. . .. . .Eastward Moderate breeze; cumulus clouds.
Do.21 9 a.m. 82. . . 78½Eastward Light breeze; clear.
Do.21 3 p.m. 87. . .. . .Eastward Moderate breezes.
Do.22 Noon86. . . 82 N. and E. Moderate breeze; cumulus clouds.
Do.22 3 p.m. 86½. . .. . .Calm Cumulus clouds.
Do.23 9 a.m. 83. . . 80½Eastward Moderate breeze; clear; most of the afternoons and evenings here are calm and warm.
Do.23 3 p.m. 87. . .. . .Eastward Light air; heavy cumulus clouds in the horizon; thunder.
Do.24 9 a.m. 83½. . .80 Eastward Light breeze; cumulo-stratus clouds.
Do.24 3 p.m. 83½. . .. . .Eastward Heavy shower, with one sharp flash of lightning; thermometer at 2½, 88.
Do.25 9 a.m. 79½. . .. . .Eastward Moderate breeze; continuous rain.In the long route from Tabatinga to Egas, I had got ahead of the rains. They are now catching up.
Do.25 3 p.m. 80. . .. . .Calm Clearing up.
Do.26 9 a.m. 79. . .. . .Eastward Light breeze, with rain squalls.
Do.26 3 p.m. 80. . . 78 Eastward Moderate breeze; cirro-cumulus clouds.
Do.27 10 a.m. 79. . . 78 Calm Cloudy.
Do.27 3 p.m. 82. . .. . .Calm Thunder storm brewing in the northeast.
Do.28 10 a.m. 78. . . 78 Eastward Moderate breeze; cloudy; left Egas at 2½ p.m., in the rain.
Amazon29 6 a.m. 75. . .. . .Eastward Light breeze; cloudy.
Do.29 Noon838279 Eastward Moderate breeze; cirrus clouds; cumuli in the horizon.
Do.29 3 p.m. 83. . .. . .Eastward Light breeze; clear; fresh breeze from the eastward all night; clear, except a bank of light white clouds in the eastern horizon, breaking off and rising in fleecy flocculi, with cumulus clouds in the northwest.
Do.30 6 a.m. 78. . .. . .. . .Light cirro-cumulus clouds moving from east and northeast.
Do.30 9 a.m. 788278 Eastward Breeze light; clear overhead.
Do.30 3 p.m. 86. . . 79 Eastward Light breeze; cumulus clouds; at 6 sharp squall of wind and heavy rain from the northward; at 8 arrived at mouth of Lake Coari; light breeze from the northward; heavy clouds, with sharp lightning and thunder in that direction.
Lake Coari31 6 a.m. 78. . .. . .Calm Light breeze. The water of Lake Coari is clear, and of a brown color. A quarter of a mile inside of the canal that connects the lake with the river we found 9 fathoms of depth, with ¾ of a mile current; muddy bottom. The bottom near the shore, in 2 fathoms water, is of sand, mixed with red clay. Thunder and lightning in the north in the early part of the night.
Amazon31 3 p.m. 8482½ 80½ Eastward
1852
Do.Jan. 1 6 a.m. 76. . .. . .Eastward Moderate; light cirrus clouds overhead; cirro-cumuli about the horizon.
Do.1 9 a.m. 798277 Eastward Fresh breeze; quite a sea in the river.
Do.1 3 p.m. 82. . .. . .Eastward Fresh. Passed the mouth of the Codajash. At 8 p.m. calm; nearly clear.
Do.2 6 a.m. 76. . .. . .Eastward Light breeze; stratus clouds.
Do.2 9 a.m. 7780½ 76 Eastward Fresh breeze. This breeze sets in strong about 9 o'clock; generally continues until 4 or 5, when it goes down until 9 p.m., when it freshens up again, and blows till 2 or 3 in the morning.
Do.2 3 p.m. 82. . .. . .Westward
Do.3 6 a.m. 76. . .. . .Eastward Moderate breeze; stratus clouds.
Do.3 9 a.m. 788178 Eastward Light breeze; cirro-stratus clouds.
Do.3 3 p.m. 84. . . 82 N. and E. Fresh breeze; clear overhead; cumuli about the horizon. This breeze sets in now between 10 and 11, (higher up the river it commenced at 9,) and lasts till 5 p.m.; it gets up again about midnight and lasts till daybreak. Passed the mouth of river Purus; about ¾ of a mile wide; depth 13 fathoms; current about ¾ of a mile per hour; temperature of the water 84½.
Do.4 6 a.m. 77. . .. . .Eastward Light breeze; clear.
Do.4 9 a.m. 828278½Eastward Light breeze; clear overhead; cumuli about the horizon. Breeze freshened at 10, and hauled more to the northward.
Do.4 3 p.m. 83. . .. . .N. and E. Fresh breeze; cumulus clouds, thickening and blackening into nimbi. At 3½ sharp squall of wind and rain from the eastward; after the squall the wind fell. At 5 heavy thunder clouds in the south and east; cirrus clouds overhead.
Do.5 6 a.m. 77. . .. . .Eastward Light breeze, with occasional spits of rain; fresh breeze from the eastward, set in at 9 and continued till 4. Entered the mouth of the Rio Negro at 5 p.m.; 2 miles wide; 17½ fathoms deep in mid stream.
Do.6. . .. . .. . .. . .Eastward Moderate breeze; blowing in squalls, with rain. At 5½ a.m. arrived at Barra.
Barra7 9 a.m. 78. . . 77 Calm Rain during last night.
Do.7 3 p.m. 80½. . .. . .Eastward Moderate breeze; cloudy.
Do.8 9 a.m. 80. . . 78 Calm Cloudy and showery.
Do.8 3 p.m. 82. . .. . .Eastward Light breeze, (has been fresh;) light cirrus clouds; sun out hot.
Do.9 9 a.m. 79. . . 78 Eastward Light air, with occasional showers.
Do.10 9 a.m. 78. . .. . .Eastward Moderate breeze; rain all the morning.
Do.10 3 p.m. 80. . .. . .Eastward Light breeze; clouds rolled up into cumuli.
Do.12 9 a.m. 79. . . 78 Calm Showery.
Do.12 3 p.m. 80. . .. . .Eastward Light air; heavy rain cloud in the north; rain all the evening.
Do.13 9 a.m. 79. . . 77 S. and E. Light air; misty morning, with showers of rain.
Do.13 3 p.m. 80. . .. . .. . .Heavy cumuli in the northward and eastward.
Do.14 9 a.m. 80. . . 79 Calm Cloudy.
Do.14 3 p.m. 80. . .. . .. . .Showery.
Do.15 9 a.m. 79. . . 77 Eastward Light air.
Do.15 3 p.m. 81. . .. . .Eastward Moderate breeze; cumulus clouds.
Do.16 9 a.m. 78. . . 77 N. and E. Moderate breeze; cloudy; thick rain clouds gathering in northeast.
Do.16 3 p.m. 80. . .. . .N. and E. Moderate breeze; no rain; cloudy at night.
Do.17 9 a.m. 79. . . 77. . .Heavy and continued rain all the early part of the morning; showery all day.
Do.17 3 p.m. 79. . .. . .N. and E. Light breeze; clouds breaking up into cumuli.
Do.18 9 a.m. 79. . .. . .N. and E. Moderate breeze; cloudy in the morning; smart shower in the afternoon.
Do.19 9 a.m. 78. . . 76½. . .Cloudy morning; clear in the afternoon and early part of the night.
Do.20 9 a.m. 78. . .. . .Calm Stratus clouds.
Do.20 3 p.m. 85. . . 77½N. and E. Light breeze; cumulus clouds. Substituted a light gauze covering to the bulb of the thermometer for the thick cotton one it before had, and, instead of dipping it in the water, merely dampened it with a brush.
Do.21 9 a.m. 79. . . 75½Calm.
Do.22 3 p.m. 82. . . 78 N. and E. Moderate breeze; cumulus clouds; rainy morning; showery in the afternoon.
Do.23 9 a.m. 79. . . 76 Calm Cloudy; occasional light showers.
Do.23 3 p.m. 82. . .. . .N. and E. Moderate breeze; cirro-cumulus clouds.
Do.24 9 a.m. 76. . . 73 Calm Showery.
Do.24 3 p.m. 82. . .. . .Calm Cumulus clouds; rain during the latter part of the night.
Do.25 9 a.m. 78. . .. . .. . .Cloudy and sultry all the morning.
Do.25 3 p.m. 82. . . 78 Eastward Light breeze; cumulus clouds; clear at night.
Do.26 9 a.m. 79. . . 76 Calm Sultry; thin stratus clouds.
Do.26 3 p.m. 80. . .. . .. . .Clouds rolled up into cumuli.
Do.27 9 a.m. 77. . .. . .. . .Heavy rain from 4 a.m. to noon.
Do.27 3 p.m.. . .. . .. . .. . .Sun out between the clouds; hot. At 5 squall of wind and rain from northward and eastward, with thunder and lightning; rain nearly all night.
Do.28 9 a.m. 77. . . 76 Calm Rainy morning.
Do.28 3 p.m. 79. . .. . .. . .Light stratus clouds; pleasant afternoon.
Do.29 9 a.m. 77. . .. . .. . .Thin cirro-stratus clouds; damp morning.
Do.29 3 p.m. 82½. . .78½Eastward Moderate breeze; cirro-cumulus clouds; at 6 smart rain squall from northeast.
Do.30 9 a.m. 79. . .. . .Calm Cloudy; cirro stratus.
Do.30 3 p.m. 84½. . .79 Westward Light breeze; stratus clouds in the west; cumuli in the east and northeast.
Do.31 9 a.m. 79. . .. . .Calm Thin stratus clouds; light rain occasionally.
Do.31 3 p.m. 78. . . 75½Calm. Cloudy; showery all the forenoon, with cool damp wind from southward and westward.
Do.Feb. 1 9 a.m. 76. . .. . .Calm Cloudy; thin stratus clouds.
Do.1 3 p.m. 80. . .. . .Eastward Light breeze; cirrus clouds.
Do.2 9 a.m. 79½. . .. . .Eastward Light breeze; cirrus clouds; generally clear.
Do.2 3 p.m. 83. . . 79 Calm Cumulus clouds gathering thick in northward and eastward; much heavy rain during the night, with thunder and lightning.
Do.3 9 a.m. 77. . .. . .Calm Cloudy.
Do.3 3 p.m. 78½. . .76 N. and E. Light breeze; clouds breaking up into light cumuli.
Do.4 9 a.m. 77. . .. . .Calm Clear; fresh pleasant breeze from the eastward, with hot sun, nearly all day; calm, with cirro-cumulus clouds gathering in the evening.
Do.5 9 a.m. 78. . .. . .Calm Clear.
Do.6 9 a.m. 77½. . .. . .Eastward Light breeze; clear.
Do.6 3 p.m. 82. . . 79 S. and E. Light breeze; rain clouds gathering in the southeast; at 4 squall of wind and heavy rain.
Do.7 3 p.m. 81½. . .78½S. and E. Light breeze; cumulus clouds.
Do.8 9 a.m. 78. . .. . .Eastward Light breeze; stratus clouds.
Do.8 3 p.m. 79½. . .79. . .Shower of rain from southward and eastward, wind afterwards changing to the northward.
Do.9 9 a.m. 76. . .. . .Calm Clear; light cumuli around the horizon, breaking off into cirri.
Do.9 3 p.m. 81. . . 78. . .Cumulo stratus clouds; has been rain between 9 and 3.
Do.10 9 a.m. 79½. . .. . .Calm Cumulus clouds; sun hot.
Do.10 3 p.m. 83½. . .. . .Northward Light air; rain up the river, in the west; at 4 squall of wind and rain from the eastward.
Do.11 9 a.m. 80. . .. . .N. and E. Moderate breeze; cirro-cumulus clouds; showers during the forenoon.
Do.11 3 p.m. 83. . . 79 N. and E. Cumulus clouds, with cirrus haze overhead.
Do.12 9 a.m. 79. . .. . .Calm Cirro-cumulus clouds; rain squall from the northward all the forenoon after 10.
Do.12 3 p.m. 78. . .. . .Calm Rain all day.
Do.13 9 a.m. 78. . .. . .Calm Cloudy; very pleasant day; rain during the night.
Do.14 9 a.m. 78. . .. . .SouthwardlyLight breeze; cumulo-stratus clouds.
Do.14 3 p.m. 78. . .. . .Calm Rainy; heavy rain during the night.
Do.15 9 a.m. 77. . .. . .Northward Light air; pleasant morning; at 3 p.m.calm; light drizzle; thermometer 79.
Rio Negro 18 8 a.m. 80. . .. . .Calm Cloudy; sailed from Barra at ½ to 9 a.m.; very little current in the river.
Do.18 Noon.86. . .. . .Eastward Fresh breeze; current not sufficiently strong to carry us, with the aid of our 5 paddles, against the breeze; so we had to stop till the breeze went down; dropping rain; thunder.
Do.18 3 p.m. 7783½. . .S. and E. Light air; current of the Amazon 1½ mile the hour.
Amazon19 9 a.m. 82½. . .. . .Eastward Light breeze; saw the mark of high water about 8 feet above the present level.
Do.19 3 p.m. 81½. . .80 N. and E. Light breeze; stratus overhead and to the westward; cumuli in the east.
Do.20 6 a.m. 76½. . .75 Calm Stratus clouds; rain nearly all night, with distant lightning to the eastward.
Do.20 9 a.m. 77½ 82. . .S. and E. Moderate breeze, with light rain squalls; at 12½ squalls ceased; wind came out from northward and westward light.
Do.20 3 p.m. 77. . . 77 N. and W. Fresh breeze; stopped at mouth of the Madeira.
Do.21 6 a.m. 7581. . .EastwardModerate breeze; cirro-stratus clouds; mouth of the Madeira about 2 miles broad; depth 11 fathoms; current 3½ miles the hour.
Do.21 11 a.m. 80. . .. . .Eastward. . . Stopped a few hours at Serpa; high-water mark 12 feet above the present level.
Do.21 3 p.m. 83½. . .79 Eastward Cumulus clouds.
Do.21 6 p.m. 80. . .. . .Eastward Squally, and rainy appearances.
Do.21 9 p.m. 78½. . .. . .Calm Light rain.
Do.22 6 a.m. 78. . . 76 N. and E. Moderate breeze; patches of blue sky, with all sorts of clouds.
Do.22 9 a.m. 7682. . .N. and E. Fresh breeze; stratus clouds; quite a high sea; had to stop several hours on account of it.
Do.22 6 p.m. 80. . .. . .Eastward Light breeze; cirro-cumulus clouds.
Do.22Mid.77. . .. . .EastwardCool damp breeze.
Do.23 6 a.m. 76. . . 75 Eastward Light breeze; stratus clouds.
Do.23 9 a.m. 76. . .. . .N. and E. Squally, with light rain; stopped at 1 p.m.on account of heavy squall of wind from the northward and eastward, with high sea; current of the Amazon 3¼ miles; it has increased very much since the entrance of the Madeira.
Do.23 9 p.m. 80. . .. . .Calm
Villa Nova24 9 a.m. 76
Amazon25 6 a.m. 77. . . 76 Northward Light air; stratus clouds; rain till 8½.
Do.25 9 a.m. 78. . .. . .Northward Light air; cirro-cumulus clouds.
Do.25 3 p.m. 85. . . 80 Calm Cirro stratus clouds; rain nearly all night; wind from northward and eastward, with thunder.
Obidos26 10 a.m. 81. . .. . .. . .Rain all the afternoon and nearly all night.
Do.27. . .. . .. . .. . .N. and E. Moderate breeze; very pleasant day; rain most of the night.
Do.28. . .. . .. . .. . .. . .Rain nearly all the morning and all night.
Do.29 6 p.m. 79. . .. . .Southward Rainy morning; sailed from Obidos; smart rain during the night.
AmazonMar. 1 6 a.m. 77. . .. . .S. and E. Light air; rainy. Entered the Tapajos by a creek 100 yards wide, 5 fathoms deep, and 3 miles long. Tapajos 1¼ mile wide at Santarem; dark water; deep. Heavy rain from 10 p.m.to 1 a.m.
Santarem2 9 a.m. 79. . .. . .S. and E. Moderate breeze; stratus clouds; pleasant day.
Do.2 3 p.m. 82. . .. . .. . .Heavy rain during the night.
Do.3 9 a.m. 78. . .. . .S. and E. Squalls of wind; rain all the early morning.
Do.3 3 p.m. 81. . .. . .Eastward Moderate breeze; clouds and rain down the river.
Do.4 9 a.m. 78. . .. . .S. and E. Rainy morning.
Do.4 3 p.m. 82. . . 79. . .Cirrus clouds floating about.
Do.5 9 a.m. 78. . .. . .S. and E. Light breeze; cloudy; heavy rain and strong wind from the eastward all last night; from 10 to 3 fresh wind from the northward and eastward, veering to the eastward, with heavy rain.
Do.5 3 p.m. 81. . .. . .. . .Rain again during the night.
Do.6. . .. . .. . .. . .. . .Cloudy; showery morning; moderate breeze from the eastward, subsiding into calm, with heavy showers; clear and pleasant afternoon and evening, with light breeze from the westward. The afternoons are mostly clear.
Do.7 9 a.m. 79. . .. . .N. and E. Light breeze; drizzly morning, with showers.
Do.8. . .. . .. . .. . .. . .Pleasant day; heavy rain all the afternoon.
Do.9 9 a.m. 79½. . .. . .Calm Cumulo-stratus clouds.
Do.9 3 p.m. 82½. . .79 N. and E. Light air; a few cirrus clouds.
Do.10 9 a.m. 78½. . .. . .. . .Raining till noon.
Do.10 3 p.m. 80. . . 78 Calm Cumulo-stratus clouds; rain during the night.
Do.11 9 a.m. 79. . .. . .Calm Cloudy; drizzly.
Do.11 3 p.m. 79. . . 77½. . .Cloudy; pleasant night.
Do.12 9 a.m. 79. . .. . .Eastward Cumulo-stratus clouds; occasional showers; moderate and pleasant breeze.
Do.12 3 p.m. 80½. . .79 N. and E. Light breeze; cirro-stratus clouds; rain during the night.
Do.13 9 a.m. 79. . .. . .S. and E. Moderate breeze; cumulus clouds; nearly clear all day.
Do.13 3 p.m. 84½. . .81 Eastward Light breeze; cumulus clouds.
Do.14 9 a.m.. . .. . .. . .N. and E. Light breeze; rainy morning; pleasant day.
Do.14 3 p.m. 82½. . .79½Eastward Light breeze; cirro-cumulus clouds; at 8 p.m.squall of wind, rain, thunder, and lightning, from northeast; much heavy rain during the night.
Do.15 9 a.m. 77½. . .. . .. . .Rain all the morning.
Do.15 Noon.78. . .. . .. . .Raining.
Do.16 3 p.m. 82. . . 79 N. and E. Moderate breeze; light cirro-cumulus clouds.
Do.17 9 a.m. 80. . .. . .Southward Cool, pleasant breeze; cumulo stratus clouds; hot and close afternoon; heavy squalls of wind, rain, thunder, and lightning, from the northward and eastward.
Do.18 9 a.m. 78½. . .. . .Eastward Light breeze; rainy morning; breeze freshened up, and blew all the forenoon from northward and eastward.
Do.18 3 p.m.. . .. . . 82 Calm Close and hot all the afternoon; squall of wind and rain, with thunder and lightning during the night.
Do.19 9 a.m. 79. . .. . .N. and E. Rainy morning; clearing gradually.
Do.19 3 p.m. 82. . . 80½N. and E. Light air; light cirro-stratus clouds; from 10 p.m. to 6 a.m. heavy rain squalls, with very sharp lightning and thunder.
Do.20 9 a.m. 79. . .. . .Calm Cloudy, but breaking away.
Do.20 3 p.m. 81½. . .80 Eastward Light breeze; cirro-cumulus clouds.
Do.21 9 a.m. 79. . .. . .Calm Cloudy, stratus; close and calm all day; at sunset misty, smoky atmosphere.
Do.22 9 a.m. 79. . .. . .Northward Light breeze; squally, with occasional showers, during the day.
Do.22 3 p.m. 76½. . .75 N. and E. Fresh breeze; cumulo-stratus clouds; raining.
Do.23 9 a.m. 78. . .. . .N. and E. Light breeze; cirro-stratus; pleasant day.
Do.23 3 p.m. 80½. . .78½N. and E. Light breeze; cirro-stratus.
Do.24 9 a.m. 79. . .. . .Eastward Moderate breeze; cirro-stratus clouds above; light watery cumuli flying, with the wind beneath.
Do.24 3 p.m. 82. . . 79½Eastward Light breeze; sun hot; pleasant day.
Do.25. . .. . .. . .. . .. . .Showery all day; breeze from northward, northward and eastward, and eastward; sun hot.
Do.26 9 a.m. 79. . .. . .N. and E. Light breeze; pleasant, though warm day.
Do.26 3 p.m. 82. . . 78½Eastward Moderate breeze; cirrus clouds.
Do.27 3 p.m. 83. . . 80½Northward Light breeze; cumulus clouds; sun hot.
Do.28 3 p.m. 85. . . 80. . .Moderate breeze from eastward all day; cirro-cumulus clouds; sun hot. Left Santarem at 7 p.m.
Amazon28Mid.. . .. . .. . .. . .Squall of wind and rain from northward and eastward, with thunder and lightning; frequent showers during the night.
Do.29 6 a.m. 79. . .. . .Calm Cloudy.
Do.29 9½ a.m. 82. . .. . .N. and E. Moderate breeze; cumulus clouds.
Do.29 3 p.m. 83. . . 79½N. and E. Light air; cirro-cumulus clouds.
Do.29 6 p.m. 80. . .. . .Northward Light air; at 6½ a fine breeze sprung up from the northward and westward, and arrested the clouds that were flying over the moon from the eastward, banking them up. Lightning in the northeast. The easterly bad weather was too strong; the westerly breeze fell, and we had heavy rain from the eastward. Took shelter in a patch of grass on the right bank at 7 p.m. Started at 8; weather looking dirty, we stopped again at 9; had furious squall of wind, with thunder and lightning, from northeast.
Do.30 6 a.m.. . .. . .. . .. . .Heavy rain.
Do.30 9 a.m. 78. . .. . .. . .Rain all the morning. High land of Monte Alegre opposite, accounting for the bad weather.
Do.30 3 p.m. 81. . . 78 Calm Cirro-stratus clouds.
Do.31 6 a.m. 77. . .. . .N. and E. Light breeze; cirro-stratus clouds; cumuli, threatening rain, in east and southeast.
Do.31 9 a.m. 80. . .. . .N. and E. Moderate breeze; cirro-cumulus clouds.
Do.31 3 p.m. 83. . . 80 Calm Cumuli about the horizon; cirrus clouds overhead.
Do.316 p.m.80. . .. . .N. and E. Fresh breeze; cumulo-stratus clouds, threatening rain. We have found cumulus clouds and rain over all the chains of hills we have passed to-day; and this is generally the case.
Do.Apr. 1 6 a.m. 78. . .. . .N. and E. Light air; sun rising clear.
Do.1 9 a.m. 81. . .. . .N. and E. Moderate breeze; cumulus clouds.
Do.1 3 p.m. 80. . .. . .Eastward Light breeze, and rainy.
Do.1 6 p.m. 80. . .. . .Eastward Light breeze; stratus clouds; rain during the night.
Garupá2 9 a.m. 79. . .. . .Calm Cirro-cumulus clouds; noticed the tide first at Gurupá; it fell about 2 feet during the 3 hours we were there.
Amazon2 3 p.m. 83. . . 79 Calm Cumulo-stratus about the horizon, threatening bad weather.
Do.3 6 a.m. 76. . .. . .Calm Cirro-stratus clouds. We are now navigating in narrow channels between islands, near the right bank of the Amazon.
Do.3 9 a.m. 82. . .. . .Eastward Light breeze; stratus clouds, breaking up into cumuli; heavy squall of wind and rain from the eastward between 12 and 1 p. m.; rain, in very large drops.
Do.3 3 p.m. 77. . .. . .Calm Rainy.
Do.4 6 a.m. 77. . .. . .Calm Stratus clouds; find the flood tide so strong now as to compel us to stop whilst it is running.
Do.4 9 a.m. 82. . .. . .N. and E. Light air; stratus, breaking into cumuli; at 11 passed Breves.
Do.4 3 p.m. 85½. . .82Eastward Light air; heavy cumulus clouds round the horizon; distant thunder.
Do.5 6 a.m. 78. . .. . .Calm Light cirro-stratus clouds.
Do.5 9 a.m. 80. . .. . .Eastward Light air; cumulo-stratus clouds.
Do.5 3 p.m. 81. . .. . .N. and W. Light breeze; cumulus clouds; dirty, disagreeable night; wind from southward and eastward; cold rain.
Do.6 6 a.m. 76. . .. . .N. and W. Light breeze; cloudy, stratus.
Do.6 9 a.m. 77½. . .. . .N. and E. Moderate breeze; cumulo-stratus clouds.
Do.6 3 p.m. 83. . . 80 Eastward Fresh breeze; cumulus clouds.
Do.7 6 a.m. 78. . .. . .Calm Clear; a few watery-looking cumuli about the horizon.
Do.7 9 a.m. 84. . .. . .Calm Heavy cumuli about the horizon; sun very hot.
Do.7 3 p.m. 86½. . .. . .S. and E. Light breeze; cumulus clouds.
Do.7 6 p.m. 82. . .. . .Calm Clear, except in the west; rainy night, with thunder and lightning; wind from the eastward.
Do.8 6 a.m.. . .. . .. . .Northward Light breeze; raining hard.At 8 started to cross Limociro bay, wind blowing fresh; thick mist and rain; smart sea running; lying at an island in Limociro bay.
Do.8 9 a.m. 78. . .. . .Northward Moderate breeze; still raining.
Do.8 3 p.m. 81. . .. . .N. and E. Moderate breeze, with squalls of wind and rain.
Do.8 6 p.m. 79. . .. . .N. and E. Moderate breeze; light, fleecy, and windy-looking clouds; crossed from the island to the western shore of Limociro bay, 5 miles.
Do.9 6 a.m. 78. . .. . .Calm Stratus clouds; entered again into the creeks and channels on the right bank of the Amazon.
Do.9 3 p.m. 80. . .. . .Calm Light stratus clouds.
Do.10 6 a.m. 76. . .. . .Calm Light stratus clouds, with an occasional sprinkle of rain; at town of Sta. Ana.
Do.10 9 a.m. 7978. . .Calm Cloudy.
Do.10 3 p.m. 78. . .. . .N. and E. Light breeze; cumulo-stratus clouds; entered the river Moju.
Rio Moju11 6 a.m. 76. . .. . .Calm Stratus clouds.
Do.11 9 a.m. 78. . .. . .Eastward Light breeze; drizzly.
Do.11 3 p.m. 78. . .. . .S. and E. Fresh breeze; misty, with occasional light rain; arrived at Pará at 9½.
Pará12 6 a.m. 76. . .. . .Calm Thin stratus clouds, sun shining through them.
Do.12 11 a.m.. . .. . .. . .N. and E. Fresh breeze set in, bringing rain shower.
Do.12 3 p.m. 80. . .. . .. . .Pleasant, clear evening; barometer 29.730.
Do.13 9 a.m. 81. . .. . .Calm Misty morning; usual breeze from NNE., with rain set in at noon.
Do.13 3 p.m. 82. . .. . .. . .Clear evening; barometer 29.690.
Do.14 8 a.m. 80. . .. . .Calm Light cirro-cumulus clouds; breeze from NNE. during the day, with rain.
Do.14 3 p.m. 83½. . .. . .. . .Barometer 29.665.
Do.15. . .. . .. . .. . .S. and W. Light breeze; misty morning; wind set in from NNE. at 12, with clouds and rain; continued cloudy, with occasional light rain, till after 3.
Do.15 3 p.m. 80½. . .75 Eastward Barometer 29.685.
Do.16 9 a.m. 81. . .. . .Eastward Moderate breeze; barometer 29.735; at 12 breeze from ENE., with rain squalls.
Do.16 3 p.m. 81½. . .76½ENE. Cumulo-stratus clouds; thunder; barometer 29.675.
Do.17 9 a.m. 82½. . .77½NE. Light air; cirro-cumulus clouds; barometer 29.732.
Do.17 3 p.m. 84½. . .78½NE. Fresh breeze; cumulo-stratus clouds; barometer 29.640.
Do.18 9 a.m. 81½. . .77½NE. Light breeze just set in; light flying cumuli.
Do.18 3 p.m. 81½. . .77 NNE. Moderate breeze; cumulo-stratus clouds; occasional showers of rain.
Do.19 9 a.m. 83. . . 78 Eastward Light air; watery-looking cumuli moving southwest.
Do.20 9 a.m. 78. . .. . .Eastward Light breeze, and cloudy; cirro-stratus; heavy rain squalls all the forenoon; pleasant afternoon and evening.
Do.21 9 a.m. 79. . . 76½Eastward Light air; cirro-cumulus clouds.
Do.21 3 p.m. 81½. . .77½N. and E. Moderate breeze; heavy cumulus clouds.
Do.22 3 p.m. 85½. . .79 NNE. Moderate breeze; cumulo-stratus clouds.
Pará23 3 p.m. 79½. . .77 Variable Light winds; showery; calm in the morning; at 11 the breeze set in from the northward and eastward, with showers.
Do.24 9 a.m. 79. . .. . .Calm Cloudy all the morning.
Do.24 3 p.m. 80. . . 75 Westward Light air; cloudy, stratus.
Do.25 9 a.m. 79½. . .. . .Calm Light cirrus clouds overhead; cumuli about the horizon; during the forenoon moderate breeze from the northwest, changing about 2 p.m.to northward.
Do.25 3 p.m. 80. . . 76
Do.26 9 a.m. 79. . .. . .Calm Cloudy, cirro-stratus; pleasant morning.
Do.27 9 a.m. 75½. . .. . .WNW. Cool breeze, with light rain; breeze gradually hauled to the northward and eastward, and the weather changed to pleasant.
Do.28 9 a.m. 79½. . .75 Calm Cirrus clouds overhead; cumuli about the horizon; pleasant weather.
Do.28 3 p.m. 84. . . 75½N. and E. Moderate breeze; light cirri overhead.
Do.29 9 a.m. 80½. . .. . .NE. Light breeze; cumulus clouds round the horizon, breaking off and rising up as cirro-cumuli.
Do.29 3 p.m. 82. . . 77 NW. Moderate breeze; heavy clouds in the northwest; light spits of rain from passing clouds.
Do.30 9 a.m. 80. . . 76 Northward Cirro-stratus clouds; sun oppressive.
Do.30 3 p.m. 80½. . .76½NW. Moderate breeze; blowing in squalls from NNE. at 2, to NW. at 3; cumulo-stratus clouds, with spits of rain.
Do.May 1 9 a.m. 77. . .. . .Northward Moderate breeze, with light clouds and rain.
Do.1 3 p.m. 82. . . 76 NNW. Moderate breeze; cumulus clouds.
Do.2 9 a.m. 79. . . 75 NE During the morning moderate breeze from WSW., (with thin stratus clouds,) hauling round, by west and north to northeast; at 1 clouds breaking up into thin cumuli.
Do.2 3 p.m. 85½. . .77½WNW. Clear overhead; cumuli about the horizon.
Do.3 9 a.m. 80½. . .. . .Eastward Light breeze; stratus clouds.
Do.3 3 p.m. 80. . .. . .Calm Showery, with thunder and lightning.
Do.4 9 a.m. 80. . . 77 N. and E. Light breeze; cirro-cumulus clouds.
Do.4 3 p.m. 80. . . 77 NNE. Moderate breeze, (has been fresh, with rain;) cloudy, cumulo-stratus.
Do.5 6 a.m. 78. . .. . .Calm Misty.
Do.5 9 a.m. 80½. . .76½N. and E. Light breeze; cirro-cumulus clouds.
Do.5 3 p.m. 84. . . 78½Northward Moderate, but unsteady and uncertain breeze; heavy rain clouds in northeast and east.
Do.6 9 a.m. 80. . . 77 Southward Light air; cirro-cumulus clouds; very heavy rain between 5 and 8 p.m., with sharp lightning and thunder.
Do.7 9 a.m. 80. . . 77 S. and E. Light breeze; light cirro-cumulus clouds.