| CHAPTER I. |
| Page. |
| Tarma—Inca road—Juaja valley—Quichua Indians—Trade—Juaja river—Snow mountains—Stonebridge and stone coal—Temperature of springs—Llamas—Lieutenant ofpolice—Quicksilver mines of Huancavelica—Wool growing—Molina Posta, or Countrytavern—Silver mines of Castro-Virreyna—Population of Huancavelica—Its mineralproductions—Sandstone pyramids—Chicha and chupe—A New Englander among theAndes—Fruits and flowers of Huanta—Blacksmiths. | [1] |
| CHAPTER II. |
| Gold and silver ornaments—Bridal trip on the Andes—Manufacturers of bark rope—Cottontrees—Winds and currents of the mountains—Population—Cultivation—Flocksof sheep—Frosty nights—Reports of Robbers—Shoemaker—Ancient fortification—Indianstravelling—Condor's wings—A padre on the road—Sugar-cane patches—SpanishCreoles—An African slave—Apurimac bridge—Cabbage patch—Peruvian widow—Bullfight—Fish and horned cattle—Cuzco—Market place—Steamboat navigation—Easternside of the Andes—Coca plantations—Head of Madre-de-Dios—Rivers Cosnipata,Tono and Piñipiñi—Forests—Tigers—Monkeys—Chuncho savages—View of the lowlandsfrom a peak of the Andes—Cinchona bark gatherers. | [27] |
| CHAPTER III. |
| College of Sciences and Arts at Cuzco—Students—Library—Popularity of FenimoreCooper's works—Convents—Cock-pits—Procession—Condition of the Aborigines anteriorto the Incas—Manco Capac and his wife—Their language—Antiquities—Incas fortress—Worshipof the planetary bodies—Suspicion of intercourse between ancientcivilized Asia and south Peru—Temperature of bull's blood—Reception of the prefect'sfamily—Sham fight among the Quichua Indians—Barley and corn crops—Trade—Lossof Paititi—Thermal springs—Hospitality of a Cura—Lampa—Gold mines of Carabaya—LakeTiticaca—Appearance of the Indians—Puno military—Niggardly soil. | [55] |
| CHAPTER IV. |
| Manto silver mine—Trade—Shores of Lake Titicaca—Rush balsas—Animals—Loftiestmountains—Aymara Indians—Mode of cultivation—Bottled fish—Frontier of Peru—RioDesaguedero—Rush bridge—Bolivia military and custom-house—Southeast trade-winds—Tiahuanacoruins—Evaporation and precipitation—Planting small potatoes—Difficultyamong postillions—City of La Paz—Population—Cinchona bark—Beni riverand Madeira Plate—Transit duty—Gold washings of Tipuani—Productions of Yungas—Driedmutton and copper mines—Articles of the last constitution—A Bolivian lady'sopinion of North Americans—Illimani snow peak—Church performances of the Aymaras—Benenguelasilver mines—Growth of cedar bushes. | [96] |
| CHAPTER V. |
| Silver mines of Sicasica—Productions of the Puna, or Table lands—An exile returninghome—Department of Oruro—Silver, copper, and tin—Climate—A chicha factorer—Theexpedition out of Titicaca Basin, and into Madeira Plate—Department of Potosi—Population,climate, and productions—Rio Pilcomayo—Mint—Quicksilver trade—Imperfectmining operations—Smuggling of precious metals—Statistics of silver—Tradewith the Argentine confederation—Port of Cobija—Desert of Atacama—Eastern sideof the Andes—Frosty mountain tops and thermal streams—A washwoman—Cinchonabark ascending to the South Pacific—Department of Cochabamba—Increase of Creoles—Incascolony of Quichua Indians—Hail storm—Gardens—Fig trees—City of Cochabamba—Hospitalityof the merchants—The President of Bolivia and his cabinet—Commercialproposition—Brazilian minister—President Belzu—Cavalry and infantry—Armorof the Bolivian troops—Public force—Calacala gardens—Market people—RioMamoré—Legislative power—Church ceremony—Climate—A bishop's opinion of theconsequences of steamboat navigation—Cabinet ministers—Reception of a Farmer bythe President—Heavy shock of an earthquake—Sudden departure of the government—Clisafair—Trade to the Pacific coast. | [121] |
| CHAPTER VI. |
| Market place—Cinchona bark—Funeral ceremonies—Longevity—Kindness of Britishand Brazilian ministers—French schoolmistresses—Ancient habitations—Sucre, thecapital—Departments of Chuquisaca and Tarija—River Bermejo—Distribution of vegetablelife—Visit to Lake Uara-Uara—Snow line—Balls—Theatre—Department of SantaCruz—Creole population—Daily life—Province of Chiquitos—Indians—Labors of theJesuits—Paraguay river. | [146] |
| CHAPTER VII. |
| Diamonds—Animals of Chiquitos—Decree of 1837, and act of Congress—Señor Oliden'svoyage on the Paraguay river—Salt—Fall of trees—Descending the mountains—Monkeymeat—Coca plant—Espiritu Santo—Creole workmen—A night in the wild woods—Yuracareshunting—River San Mateo—Province of Yuracares. | [169] |
| CHAPTER VIII. |
| Cinchona forests—Indians shooting fish—Department of the Beni—Vinchuta—Smallpox—Canichanas boat's crew—Cotton cloth and silver coins—Our faithful servant JoséCasas and the mules—Trade at Vinchuta—A night on Coni creek—Embarkation atthe base of the Andes—Chaparé river—Canoe life—Floods—Bark cloth—Pick up thesick—Indians at prayers in the wilderness—Lassoing an alligator. | [193] |
| CHAPTER IX. |
| Pass the mouth of Chimoré river—White cranes—Rio Mamoré—Woodbridge's Atlas—Nightwatch—"Masi" guard-house—Pampas—Ant-houses—Cattle—Religion—Sugarcane—Fishing party of Mojos Indians—River Ybaré—Pampas of Mojos—Pasturelands—City of Trinidad—Prefect—Housed in Mojos—Don Antonio de Barras Cordoza—Populationof the Beni—Cotton Manufactures—Productions—Trade—Don Antonio'sAmazonian boats—Jesuits—Languages—Natural intelligence of the Aborigines—Paintings—Cargoesof foreign goods in the plaza. | [218] |
| CHAPTER X. |
| Horned cattle and horses—"Peste"—Salt trade—Church service—Bull fight—MarianoCuyaba—Rules and regulations of the town—Laws and customs of the Creoles—A walkthrough the plaza at midnight—Scenes on the road to the town of Loreto—Annualdeluge—The beasts, birds, and fishes—Loreto—Inhabitants—Grove of tamarind trees—Windsof the Madeira Plate—A bird-hunter—Trapiche—A black tiger burnt out—Departurein Brazilian boats—Enter the Mamoré river again—An Indian overboard. | [240] |
| CHAPTER XI. |
| Exaltacion—Cayavabo Indians—Descending the Mamoré river—Indians shooting fish—Houbarayossavages and birds at midnight—Ascend the Itenez river—Forte do Principeda Beira, in Brazil—Negro soldiers—Kind attention of the commandante—Favorablenotice of the expedition by the President of Matto Grosso—The wilderness—Friendshipof Don Antonio, his boat, and a crew of negro soldiers—Departure for the Madeirariver—Birds and fishes congregated at the mouth of the Itenez—On the Mamoré riveragain—A negro soldier's account of the Emperor's service—Roar of "Guajará-merim"Falls. | [263] |
| CHAPTER XII. |
| Jacares savages—Mouth of the Beni river—Obstructions to steamboat navigation—Madeirariver falls—Lighten the boat—Pot holes—Granite—Pedreneira falls—Caripunasavages—Pedro milks a savage woman—Bilious fever—Arrive at the foot of San Antoniofalls—The impracticability of navigating by steamboats the falls of the Mamoré andMadeira rivers—Proposed road through the territory of Brazil to Bolivia—Physicalstrength of the white, black, and red men, compared under a tropical climate—Tamanduaisland—Turtle eggs—Oil-hunters—Borba—Mouth of the Madeira river. | [287] |
| APPENDIX. |
| Observations with the sextant and artificial horizon—Meteorological observations—Tableof distances in South Peru and Bolivia by government measurement—Boiling watermeasurements of heights above sea level—Map of roads and rivers, with situation ofmineral wealth. | [315] |