SECTION IX.—PLANTS USED FOR CULINARY PURPOSES.
"Man's first great ruling passion is to eat."
In the following section I have confined myself principally to such as are in cultivation. There are many of our indigenous plants which, in times of scarcity, and in other cases of necessity, are used as food by the people in the neighbourhood where they grow. But of these I shall make a separate list.
409. ARTICHOKE. Cynara Scolymus.—We have several varieties of this plant in cultivation; but the most approved are the large green and the globe. They are propagated by taking off the young suckers from the old roots in May, and planting them in a piece of rich land. Artichokes have been raised from seed, but they are seldom perfected in this country.
410. ARTICHOKE, JERUSALEM. Helianthus tuberosus.—Is cultivated for the sake of its tubers, similar to the potatoe; but they are not generally esteemed.
411. ASPARAGUS. Asparagus officinalis.—A very delicious vegetable in the spring, and well known to all amateurs of gardening.
There is a variety called the Gravesend Asparagus, and another called the Battersea; but it is the richness of the soil and manure that makes the only difference.
412. BASIL, SWEET. Ocymum Basilicum.—A pot-herb of considerable use for culinary purposes. It is an annual; and the seeds should be sown in a hot-bed in March, and transplanted into the open ground. It is usually dried as other pot-herbs.
413. BEANS. Vicia Faba.—The varieties of the garden-beans are as follow:—
The early Mazagan and Longpod are planted in November. These will usually be fit for use in June.
The Windsor.
The Toker.
The Sword Longpod.
The Green Toker.
The White-blossomed.
These are sown usually in succession from January to March, and afford a continuance of crop during the season.
414. BEANS, FRENCH OR KIDNEY. Phaseolus vulgaris.—The kidney beans are of two kinds; such as run up sticks and flower on the tops. Of this description we have in cultivation the following:—
The Scarlet Runner. The Dutch Runner.
Both these are much esteemed.
Of dwarf kinds we have many varieties. The pollen of these plants is very apt to become mixed; and, consequently, hybrid kinds differing in the colour of the seeds are often produced. The season for sowing these is from April till June.
The Black, or Negro Beans. The Blue Dwarf. The Early Yellow. The Black
Speckled. The Red Speckled. The Magpie. The Canterbury.
All these varieties are good and early beans. The white Canterbury is the kind most esteemed for pickling; the other sorts being all of them more or less discoloured: and this kind is the sort generally sold for such purpose in the London markets.
415. BEET, RED. Beta vulgaris v. rubra.—The roots of this variety are used both in soups and for early spring salads: it is cultivated by sowing the seeds in March; and the roots are usually kept all winter.
The white beet is only a variety of the other; and it is the tops that are usually eaten of this kind as a substitute for spinach. Its culture is the same as that of the red kind.
416. BORECOLE. Brassica Rapa.—Of borecole we have two varieties; the purple, and green. The former is in much esteem amongst the Germans, who make a number of excellent dishes from it in the winter.
The culture is the same as for winter cabbage of other kinds.
417. BRUSSELS SPROUTS. Brassica Rapa.—This is also a useful variety of the cabbage species, which is very productive, forming a large number of beautiful small close-headed cabbages on their high stalks in the winter season. The seeds are sown in March.
418. BURNET. Poterium Sanguisorba.—The young leaves of this plant are eaten with other tender herbs in the spring, and are considered a wholesome addition to mustard, cress, corn-salad, &c.
419. CABBAGE. Brassica oleracea.—The varieties of cabbage are numerous. The most esteemed are,
The Early York. The Early Sugar-loaf. The Early Battersea. The Early
Russia.
They are all sown in August, and planted out for an early summer-crop, and are usually in season in May and June.
The Large Battersea. The Red Cabbage. The Green Savoy. The White Savoy.
These are usually sown in March, and planted for a winter crop.
The use and qualities of the cabbage are too well known to need any further description.
420. CAULIFLOWER. Brassica oleracea var.—The varieties are,
The Early. The Late.
The early cauliflower is sown in the first week in September, and usually sheltered under bell or hand glasses during the winter. By this means the crop is fit for table in the months of May and June.
The late sort is usually sown in the month of March, and planted out for a succession to the first crop.
421. CAPERS. Capparis spinosa.—This is the flower-pod before it opens of the above shrub, and is only kept as an ornamental plant here. I am induced to notice this plant, as I have known some things used in mistake for capers that are dangerous. I once saw an instance of this, in the seed-vessels of the Euphorbia Lathyris (which is a poisonous plant) being pickled by an ignorant person.
422. CAPSICUM. Capsicum annuum.—Cayenne pepper is made from a small variety of this plant.
We have many varieties cultivated here in hot-beds; namely, yellow and red, of various shapes, as long, round, and heart-shaped. All these are very useful, either pickled by themselves, or mixed with any other substances, as love-apple, radish pods, &c. to which they impart a very fine warm flavour.
423. CARROT. Daucus Carota.—
The Orange Carrot.—For winter use.
The Early Horn ditto.—For summer use.—The former is usually sown in March; the latter being smaller, and more early, is commonly raised on hot-beds. The Early Horn Carrot may likewise be sown in August, and is good all winter.
424. CELERY. Apium graveolens.—Celery is now so generally known as to render a description of the plant useless; nor need it be told, that the stalks blanched are eaten raw, stewed, &c. It should be used with great caution, if grown in wet land, as it has been considered poisonous in such cases. The season of sowing celery is in April. We have a variety of this, which is red, and much esteemed.
425. CELERIAC. This is a variety of the Apium graveolens. It is hollow in the stem, and the roots are particularly large: although this is much used in Germany, it is not so much esteemed by us as the celery.
426. CHAMPIGNON. Agaricus pratensis.—This plant is equal in flavour to the mushroom when boiled or stewed: it is rather dry, and has little or no scent whatever.
427. CHARDOONS. Cynara Cardunculus.—The gardeners blanch the stalks as they do celery; and they are eaten raw with oil, pepper, and vinegar; or, if fancy directs, they are also either boiled or stewed.
428. CHERVIL. Scandix Cerefolium.—This plant is so much used by the French and Dutch, that there is scarcely a soup or salad but what chervil makes part of it: it is grateful to the taste. See article oenanthe crocata in the Poisonous Plants.
429. CIVES. Allium Schoenoprasum.—This is an excellent herb for salads in the spring: it is also useful for soups, &c. &c. It is perennial, and propagated by its roots, which readily part at any season.
430. CLARY. Salvia Sclarea.—The seeds are sown in autumn. It is biennial. The recent leaves dipped in milk, and then fried in butter, were formerly used as a dainty dish; but now it is mostly used as a pot-herb, and for making an useful beverage called Clary Wine, viz.—Put four pounds of sugar to five gallons of water, and the albumen of three eggs well beaten; boil these together for about sixteen minutes, then skim the liquor; and when it is cool, add of the leaves and blossoms two gallons, and also of yeast half a pint; and when this is completed, put it all together into a vessel and stir it two or three times a-day till it has done fermenting, and then stop it close for two months: afterwards draw it into a clean vessel, adding to it a quart of good brandy. In two months it will be fit to bottle.
431. COLEWORT. Brassica oleracea var.—This is a small variety of the common cabbage, which is sown in June, and planted out for autumn and winter use. These are often found to stand the severe frosts of our winter when the large sort of cabbages are killed; but its principal use with gardeners is, to have a crop that will occupy the land after the beans and pease are over, and perhaps Colewort is the most advantageous for such purposes.
432. CORN SALAD. Valeriana Locusta.—An annual, growing wild in Battersea fields, and many other parts of this kingdom.
It is usually sown in August, and stands the winter perfectly well; it is very similar to lettuce, and is a good substitute for it in the spring and winter seasons.
433. COSTMARY Tanacetum Balsamita.—Is used as a herb in salad. This is a perennial plant of easy culture.
434. CRESS. Lepidium sativum.—There are two varieties of cress, the curled and common. This is an ingredient with mustard in early salads.
435. CRESS, AMERICAN. Erysimum Barbarea.—This is cultivated for salads, and is much esteemed. It is increased by sowing the seeds in the spring. This is only good in the winter and spring seasons.
436. CUCUMBERS. Cucumis sativus.—Many sorts of cucumbers are cultivated by gardeners. The most esteemed are,
The Southgate Cucumber. The Long Prickly. The Long Turkey. The White
Spined.
The early crop is usually sown in hot-beds in the spring, and is a crop on which most gardeners have always prided themselves, each on his best mode of management of this crop. They will also grow if sown in April, and planted out in the open ground.
The short prickly cucumber is grown for gerkins.
437. DILL. Anethum graveolens.—This is similar to fennel, and used in pickling. It is esteemed useful as a medicinal herb also; which see.
438. ENDIVE. Cichorium Endivia.—Of this we have three varieties in cultivation.
The Green Curled. The White Curled. The Batavian, or Broad-leaved.
These are sown usually in June and July, and planted out for use in the autumn and winter. Endive is well known as forming a principal part of our winter salads; for which purpose, it is usual with gardeners to blanch it, by tying the plants up together, and laying them in dry places.
439. ESCHALOT. Allium ascalonium.—This species of allium is very pungent: its scent is not unpleasant, but is very strong, and, in general, it is preferred to the onion for making soups and gravies. It is propagated by planting the bulbs in September and October: they are fit to take up in May and June, when they are dried and kept for use.
440. FENNEL. Anethum Foeniculum.—The use of this plant is so well knwon in the kitchen, as to render an account of it useless. It is propagated by sowing seeds in the spring.
441. GARLICK. Allium sativum.—This is used in the art of cookery in various ways, for soups, pickles, &c. It is cultivated by planting the small cloves or roots in the month of October. It is fit to pull up in spring; and the roots are dried for use.
442. GOURD. Cucurbita Melopepo.—The inhabitants of North America boil the squash or melon gourds when about the size of small oranges, and eat them with their meat. The pulp is used with sour apples to make pies. In scarcity it is a good substitute for fruit.
443. KOHLRABBI, or TURNEP-ROOTED CABBAGE. Brassica Rapa var.—We have two kinds of this in cultivation; but although these are both much eaten in Germany, they are not esteemed with us: in fact, we have so many varieties of the cabbage kind all the year round for culinary purposes, that nothing could much improve them. In countries further north than we are, this is probably an acquisition, as, from its hardiness, it is likely to stand the frost better than some of the more delicate varieties.
444. LEEKS. Allium Porrum.—There are two kinds of leeks: the Welsh and London.
Leeks are used principally in soups; they partake much of the nature of onions, but for this purpose are in general more esteemed. This plant has been so long cultivated in this country, that its native place is not known.
The seeds are sown in the spring, and it is in use all the winter.
445. LETTUCE. Lactuca sativa.—The varieties of lettuce are many. They are,
Green Coss. White do. Silesia do. Brown do. Egyptian do. Brown Dutch.
White Cabbage. Imperial. Hammersmith Hardy. Tennis-ball.
These are sown every summer month. The brown and Egyptian coss are sown in August, and commonly stand the winter; and in the spring are fit for use.
446. LOVE-APPLE. Solanum Lycopersicum.—The Portuguese and Spaniards are so very fond of this fruit, that there is not a soup or gravy but what this makes an ingredient in; and it is deemed cooling and nutritive. It is also called Tomatas, or Tomatoes.
The green fruit makes a most excellent pickle with capsicums and other berries. It is annual, and raised in hot-bed, and planted out.
447. MARJORAM, WINTER. Origanum vulgare.—This is used as a sweet herb, and is a good appendage to the usual ingredients in stuffing, &c. It is a perennial plant, and propagated by planting out its roots in the spring of the year.
448. MARJORAM, SWEET. Origanum Marjorana.—This is also used for the same purpose as the last mentioned. It is an annual, and not of such easy culture as the last, requiring to be raised from seeds in an artificial heat. It is usually dried and kept for use.
449. MARYGOLD. Calendula officinalis.—An annual plant usually sown in the spring. The petals of the flowers are eaten in broths and soups, to which they impart a very pleasant flavour.
450. MUSHROOM. Agaricus campestris.—Is cultivated and well known at our tables for its fine taste and utility in sauces. These plants do not produce seeds that can be saved; they are therefore cultivated by collecting the spawn, which is found in old hot-beds and in meadow lands.
Various methods have been lately devised for raising mushrooms artificially: but none seem to be equal to those raised in beds, as is described in all our books of gardening. Raising this vegetable in close rooms by fire heat has been found to produce them with a bad flavour; and they are not considered so wholesome as those grown in the open air, or when that element is admitted at times freely to the beds.
451. MUSTARD, WHITE. Sinapis alba.—This is sown early in the spring; to be eaten as salad with cress and other things of the like nature; it is of easy culture. A salad of this kind may be readily raised on a piece of thick woollen-cloth, if the seeds are strewed thereon and kept damp; a convenient mode practised at sea on long voyages. Cress and rap may be raised in the same manner.
452. ONION. Allium oleraceum.—The kinds of onions in cultivation are,
The Deptford. The Reading. The White Spanish. The Portugal. The Globe, and The Silver skinned.
All these varieties are usually sown in the spring of the year, and are good either eaten in their young state, or after they are dried in the winter. The silver skinned kind is mostly in use for pickling. The globe and Deptford kinds are remarkable for keeping late in the spring. A portion of all the other sorts should be sown, as they are all very good, and some kinds will keep, when others will not.
453. ONION, WELSH. Allium fistulosum.—This is sown in August for the sake of the young plants, which are useful in winter salads, and are more hardy than the other cultivated sorts.
454. PARSLEY. Petroselium vulgare.—A well known potherb sown in the spring; and the plants, if not suffered to go to seed, will last two years. See aethusa Cynapium, in Poisonous Plants.
455. PARSNEP. Pastinaca sativa.—This is a well known esculent root, and is raised by sowing the seeds in the spring.
456. PEA. Pisum sativum.—This is a well known dainty at our tables during spring and summer. The varieties in cultivation are,
Turner's Early Frame. Early Charlton. Golden Hotspur. Double Dwarf.
These are usually sown in November and December, and will succeed each other in ripening in June, if the season is fine, and afford a crop all that month.
The Dwarf Marrow-fat. The Royal Dwarf. The Prussia Blue. The Spanish
Dwarf.
These varieties are usually sown in gardens when it is not convenient to have them grow up sticks, being all of a dwarf kind.
The Tall Marrow-fat. The Green Marrow-fat. The Imperial Egg Pea. The
Rose, or Crown Pea. The Spanish Morotto. Knight's Marrow Pea. The Grey
Rouncival. The Sickle Pea.
This last variety has no skin in the pods. These are used as kidney beans, as also in the usual way. These varieties are of very large growth, and are only to be cultivated when there is considerable room, and must be supported on sticks placed in the ground for that purpose. The grey pea is usually eaten when in a dry state boiled. Hot grey peas used to be an article of common sale among our itinerant traders in London streets, but it has been dropped for some years. One or other of the different kinds of the larger varieties should be put into the ground every three weeks from March to the 1st week in June, and a crop is thereby insured constantly till the beginning of October.
It should be remarked, that peas, as well as all vegetable seeds, are liable to sport and become hybrid sorts; some of which are at times saved for separate culture, and are called, when found good, by particular names; so that every twenty or thirty years many of the kinds are changed. Thus Briant, in his Flora Diaetetica, enumerates fourteen varieties, a few only of which bear the same name as those now in the list of the London seedsmen.
457. POMPION. Cucurbita Pepo.—This is of the gourd species, and grows to a large size. It is not much in use with us: but in the south of Europe the inhabitants use the pulp with some acid fruits for pastry, and it is there very useful. It is also sometimes used in a similar manner here with apples. Almost all the gourd species are similar in taste and nutriments when used this way.
458. PURSLANE. Portulaca oleracea.—Two kinds of Purslane, the green and the golden, are cultivated. These are eaten with vinegar, &c. the same as other salad oils, and are a fine vegetable in warm weather. The seeds are usually sown in the spring.
459. RADISH. Raphanus sativus.—The varieties in cultivation are,
The Early Scarlet. The Early Purple Short-top. The Salmon Radish. The
White Turnip Radish. The Red Turnip Radish. The Black Spanish.
The above are sown almost every month in the year, and when the weather is fine, every good garden may have a supply all the year of those useful and wholesome vegetables.
The black Spanish radish is a large rooted variety usually sown in
August, and is eaten in the winter season.
The poor labouring man's fare, which is usually eaten under the hedge of the field of his employment, is often accompanied with a dried onion; and was this root more known than it generally is, it would yield him, at the expense of two-pence, with a little labour in his cottage garden, an equally pleasant and more useful sauce to his coarse but happy meals. I have observed many instances of this oeconomy amongst the labouring classes in my youth, but fear it is not quite so commonly made use of in the present day.
460. RADISH, HORSE. Cochlearia Armoracea.—The root of this vegetable is a usual accompaniment to the loyal and standard English dishes, the smoking baron and the roast surloin; with which it is most generally esteemed.
It should not be passed unnoticed here, that this very grateful and wholesome root is not at all times to be eaten with impunity. One or two instances of its deleterious effects have been witnessed by my much esteemed friend Dr. Taylor, the worthy Secretary at the Society of Arts, and which he has communicated to me. I shall insert his own words, particularly as it may be the means of preventing the botanical student from falling into the same error, after arriving with the usual good appetite, from his recreative task of herborizing excursions. "Some gentlemen having ordered a dinner at a tavern, of which scraped horse-radish was one; some persons in company took a small quantity, and, dipping it in salt, ate of it: these were soon seized with a suppression of urine, accompanied with inflammation of the kidneys, which shortly after proved fatal to one of the company. The Doctor was consulted; but not knowing exactly the cause of the complaint, of course was at a loss to apply a remedy in time. But another circumstance of the like nature having come under his notice, and being apprized of it, by a well applied corrective medicine he recovered the patient. It should, therefore, be made a general observation, under such circumstances, and those are not the most unpleasant we meet with in our researches, 'never to eat horse-radish on an empty stomach.'"
461. RAMPION. Campanula Rapunculus.—This plant is remarkable for its milky juice. In France, it is cultivated for its roots, which are boiled and eaten with salads; but in England it is little noticed, except by the French cooks, who use it as an ingredient in their soups and gravies. It is propagated by planting its roots in the spring.
462. RHAPONTIC RHUBARB. Rheum Rhaponticum.—The radical leaf-stalks of this plant being thick and juicy, and having an acid taste, are frequently used in the spring as a substitute for gooseberries before they are ripe, in making puddings, pies, tarts, &c. If they are peeled with care, they will bake and boil very well, and eat agreeably.
463. ROCAMBOLE. Allium sativum.—The rocambole is merely the bulbs on the top of the flower-stalk of the garlic, it being a viviparous plant. The flavour of this being somewhat different, is used in the kitchen under the above name.
464. SAGE. Salvia officinalis.—Of this we have two varieties, green and red. The latter is considered the best for culinary purposes: it is the well-known sauce for geese and other water-fowl. It is propagated by cuttings in the spring.
465. SALSAFY. Tragopogon porrifolium.—A biennial, sown in March, and is usually in season during winter. The roots are the parts used, which are very sweet, and contain a large quantity of milky juice: it is a good vegetable plain boiled, and the professors of cookery make many fine dishes of it.
466. SAVORY, SUMMER. Satureja hortensis.
467. SAVORY, WINTER. Satureja montana.
Both sorts are used for the same purposes, as condiments among other herbs for stuffing, and are well known to cooks. The former is an annual, and raised by sowing the seeds in March and April. The other, being perennial, is propagated either by the same means or by cuttings in the spring of the year. It is also dried for winter use.
468. SAVOY CABBAGE. Brassica oleracea, (var.)
The Green Savoy. The White or Yellow Savoy.
A well-known species of cabbage grown for winter use, and is one of our best vegetables of that season. It is raised by sowing the seeds in May, and planting the plants in any spot of ground in July after a crop of peas or beans. Savoys stand the frost better than most other kinds of cabbages with close heads.
469. SCORZONERA. Scorzonera tingitana.—The roots of this are very similar to salsafy, and its culture and use nearly the same.
470. SEA KALE. Crambe maritima.—This grows wild on our sea-coasts, particularly in Devonshire, where it has long been gathered and eaten by the inhabitants thereabouts. It was used also to be cultivated; but was in general lost to our gardens, till my late partner, Mr. Curtis, having paid a visit to his friend Dr. Wavell at Barnstaple, found it at that gentleman's table; and on his return he collected some seeds, and planted a considerable spot of ground with it at Brompton in 1792; at which time it was again introduced to Covent-Garden, but with so little successs, that no person was found to purchase it, and consequently the crop was useless.
This celebrated botanist, however, published a small tract on its uses and culture, which met with a considerable sale, and introduced it again to general cultivation.
The seeds should be sown in March, and the following year the plants are fit for forming plantations, when they should be put out in rows about three feet apart, and one foot in the row. The vegetable is blanched either by placing over the crowns of the root an empty garden-pot, or by earthing it up as is usually done with celery. It is easily forced, by placing hot dung on the pots; and is brought forward in January, and from thence till May.
It has been noticed of sea-kale, that, on eating it, it does not impart to the urine that strong and unpleasant scent which asparagus and other vegetables do.
471. SKIRRETS. Sium Sisarum.—The roots of this plant are very similar to parsneps, both in flavour and quality; they are rather sweeter, and not quite so agreeable to some palates. It is a biennial sown in March, and used all the winter.
472. SORREL, COMMON. Rumex Acetosa.—Bryant says the Irish, who are particularly fond of acids, eat the leaves with their milk and fish; and the Laplanders use the juice of them as rennet to their milk. The Greenlanders cure themselves of the scurvy, with the juice mixed with that of the scurvy-grass. The seeds may be sown, or the roots planted, in spring or autumn; it is not in general cultivation, but is to be found abundantly wild in meadows, &c.
473. SORREL, ROUND-LEAVED, or FRENCH. Rumex scutatus.—The leaves of the plant have more acidity in them than the common; and although not in general use, it is one of the best salad-herbs in the early part of the year: it is propagated in the same mode as the common sort.
474. SPINACH, Spinacia oleracea.—-Two sorts of this vegetable are cultivated. The Round-leaved, which is very quick in its growth, is sown for summer use; and if the seeds are put into the ground every three weeks, a constant succession is obtained while the weather is warm; but frost will soon destroy it.
The Prickly Spinach is not so quick in growth, and is hardy enough to stand our winters: it is therefore sown in August, and succeeds the round-leaved sort; and is a good vegetable all our winter months.
475. TARRAGON. Artemisia Dracunculus.—The leaves of this make a good ingredient with salad in the spring; and it also makes an excellent pickle. It is propagated by planting the small roots in spring or autumn, being a perennial.
476. THYME. Thymus vulgaris.—This is a well-known potherb used in broths and various modes of cookery: it is propagated by seeds and cuttings early in the spring.
477. TRUFFLES. Lycoperdon Tuber.—Not in cultivation. The poor people in this country find it worth their while to train up dogs for the purpose of finding them, which, by having some frequently laid in their way, become so used to it, that they will scrape them up in the woods; hence they are called Truffle-dogs. The French cooks use them in soups, &c. in the same manner as mushrooms. The truffle is mostly found in beech woods: I have mentioned this, because it is very generally met with at table, although it is not in cultivation.
478. TURNEPS. Brassica Rapa.—The varieties in use for garden culture are, the Early Dutch, the Early Stone, and the Mouse-tail Turnep. The culture and uses of the turnep are too well known to require any description.
The country people cut a raw turnep in thin slices, and a lemon in the same manner: and by placing the slices alternately with sugar-candy between each, the juice of the turnep is extracted, and is used as a pleasant and good remedy in obstinate coughs, and will be found to relieve persons thus afflicted, if taken immediately after each fit. Although this is one of the remedies my young medical friends may be led to despise, yet I would, nevertheless, advise them to make use of it when need occasions.
The yellow turnep is also much esteemed as a vegetable; but is dry, and very different in taste from any of the common kinds.
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