CONTENTS

PAGE
I.[London to Denmark Across the North Sea]1
II.[Esbjerg—Across Jutland, Funen and Zealand, the Little Belt and Big Belt to Copenhagen, and Friends Met Along the Way]7
III.[Copenhagen, a Quaint and Ancient City]15
IV.[Elsinore and Kronborg—An Evening Dinner Party]31
V.[Across the Sund to Sweden and Incidents of Travel to Kristiania]40
VI.[A Day Upon the Rand Fjord—Along the Etna Elv To Frydenlund—Ole Mon Our Driver]51
VII.[A Drive Along the Baegna Elv—the Aurdals Vand and Many More to Skogstad]60
VIII.[Over the Height of Land—A Wonderful Ride Down the Laera Dal to the Sogne Fjord]68
IX.[A Day Upon the Sogne Fjord]75
X.[From Stalheim to Eida—The Waterfall of Skjerve Fos—The Mighty Hardanger Fjord]80
XI.[The Buarbrae and Folgefonden Glaciers—Cataracts and Mountain Tarns—Odda to Horre]89
XII.[Over the Lonely Haukeli Fjeld—Witches and Pixies, and Maidens Milking Goats]96
XIII.[Descending from the Fjelde—The Telemarken Fjords—The Arctic Twilight]106
XIV.[Kristiania to Stockholm—A Wedding Party—Differing Norsk and Swede]118
XV.[Stockholm the Venice of the North—Life and Color of the Swedish Capital—Manners of the People and their King]128
XVI.[How We Entered Russia—The Passport System—Difficult to Get Into Russia and More Difficult to Get Out]136
XVII.[St. Petersburg—The Great Wealth of the Few—The Bitter Poverty of the Many—Conditions Similar to Those Preceding the French Revolution]148
XVIII.[En Route to Moscow—Under Military Guard—Suspected of Designs on Life of the Czar]158
XIX.[Our Arrival at Moscow—Splendor and Squalor—Enlightenment and Superstition—Russia Asiatic Rather Than European]167
XX.[The Splendid Pageant of the Russian Mass—The Separateness of Russian Religious Feeling From Modern Thought—Russia Mediaeval and Pagan]180
XXI.[The First Snows—Moscow to Warsaw—Fat Farm Lands and Frightful Poverty of the Mujiks Who Own them and Till them—I Recover My Passport]189
XXII.[The Slav and the Jew—The Slav’s Envy and Jealousy of the Jew]201
XXIII.[Across Germany and Holland to England—A Hamburg Wein Stube—The “Simple Fisher-Folk” of Maarken—Two Gulden at Den Haag]214
XXIV.[Map of North Europe.]
[Map of Scandinavia and Baltic Russia, in profile.]