CHAPTER VII.
Got on shore among the Cannibals. The reception. Description of the Tabu ground. Visit the scene of the wreck, after the storm subsides, accompanied by the king and chiefs. Manner of building. Manner of bathing. The bread fruit. Description of the Carver. The Captain proposes leaving for Otaheite. Are taken around to the other tribes. Death of one of our number from the sun's heat. Manner in which the dead are disposed of.
The next morning, Feb. 3d, 1835, we went on shore. As we reached the beach, found it lined with natives. Seeing no weapons, we asked by signs for permission to land. This was readily obtained.
The moment the boat struck the sand, a line of natives was formed on each side, who laid hold of the gunwales and carried boat and crew up about twice the length of her, out the way of the waves, and sat it down. The treatment that was in store for us was quite a query.
Getting out of the boat we were examined from head to foot, being turned around and around, they during the survey chattering among themselves with great volubility.
They soon withdrew a short distance, into the tabu ground, and were a long time in consultation, leaving us standing by ourselves on the beach. The tabu ground is an enclosure of about an acre, set about with posts which are wound around with the inner or fine bark of a tree called Tappa, which is thin and white.
It is dug down about a foot lower than the ground around. Against this bark flat stones about two feet long are set on the end, nearly as thick as they can stand. Against these they recline, sitting cross legged on the ground. In the immediate center is a table made of flat stones, on which the food at the time of the grand feast is placed. All public business is transacted here.
RECEPTION BY THE NATIVES.
THE TABU GROUND.
After a while they came running very fast towards us. By this we were fearful they intended us no good, but we were happily disappointed. They seemed fully to realize the nature of our situation, and immediately set themselves about ameliorating our condition and rendering us comfortable as possible, giving us to eat of such as they had—bread fruit—banannas—raw fish, &c. Of the vegetables we ate plentifully; the raw fish being an entirely new dish, we passed it lightly by.
Finishing our repast, we were taken two by two and put at different families, where all seemed touched by the spirit of sympathy for our sufferings.
The wind subsiding into almost a calm, we with the Prua (or king) and chiefs repaired to the boats, and rowed around the point, about three miles, to where the vessel lay, or rather went on to the rocks, for so complete was the wreck that there was not enough left of her to leave even the least trace of a ship discernible.
The rocks against which she struck were not low and shelving, as is many times the case, but high and bold, rising about fifty feet perpendicularly, and ranging a mile or two along the coast. The water at the very base is from fifty to seventy feet deep, thus leaving no place whatever for any thing to remain on them.
Returning, our boat was taken as before, and landed above the washing of the sea, and when we got out, was turned over and the oars laid by for safety.
Night coming on, we were again distributed around among the different families, where we were made welcome to all they had. Much time was spent in trying to make us understand them. This we could not do, except they could convey their ideas to our minds by signs.
It may be well at this period of the adventure to give a description of the huts or houses, in order to get a more definite idea of the passing events.
The front side and ends are made by driving posts or sticks of bamboo into the ground and secured by fastening a strong one across the top. The roof is made also of sticks of bamboo, serving as rafters, across which others are fastened, making it very strong indeed. The whole is then covered with several thicknesses of the largest outspread plantain leaves. These are also fastened by lashing bamboo across them, being entirely impervious to the rain. The roof on the front side extends to within about four feet of the ground, while on the back side it extends entirely to it.
The door is merely an opening left between the bamboos, when in the progress of building.
A wall made of flat stones about fifteen inches high, extending along the front side, occupies about two-thirds of the whole interior of the dwelling. On this wall, or floor, they perform all the labor of the family, such as preparing and eating their food. Their provision is served up in one common dish and placed on the floor, when all gather around, sitting cross legged, and each with his fingers helping himself.
The remaining one-third is occupied as a bed. This is made of leaves and dried grass. The head, or that next the roof, is made about ten inches high, sloping gently down against the wall. Sometimes the whole is covered with coarse mats made of grass. The sleeper is obliged to lie on his back, placing his legs, from below the bend of the knee, on this wall. A severe penalty is attached to the act of placing a foot on, or throwing any thing on or across the bed. I have no recollection of the law's ever being enforced, and in fact I cannot say as I ever knew of its being broken, voluntarily, or otherwise than by accident, which, except by severely reprimanding the offender, was overlooked. Great precaution, however, is observed respecting it.
At an early hour we were shown to our beds. The manner of lying was so unnatural that we could rest but little, longing continually for the approach of morning. Beside the awkward position in which we lay, we were continually annoyed by bugs and insects, with which the bed was literally filled.
In the morning with the first ray of light we were out and upon the beach. Soon others of our ill-fated companions joined us, who, like ourselves, found much fault with their lodgings. Ere long the king and other natives came also upon the beach. While we were talking of our situation and prospects they would stand by with staring eyes and open mouths, seeming exceedingly anxious to understand our conversation.
Their morning repast being ready we again returned to our respective homes.
Our breakfast was composed of bread fruit, raw fish, &c., of which we partook with appetites sharpened by deprivation and fatigue.
The natives usually bathe each morning, and often many times during the day near their huts, in a place most beautifully adapted to it.
Out of the rock there pours a stream of clear, cold water, about six inches in diameter, and twenty-five or thirty feet from the ground, which falls into a kind of basin from whence it runs into the sea.
Under this the natives jump and most effectually shower themselves. Should the water coming that distance strike them before it was broken or separated, they could not stand its force; but such is not the case, as it breaks soon after leaving the rock, and falls upon a large surface with but little force.
To this spring ships often come for supplies of water, as there can be none better found, besides, the quantity wanted is easily obtained.
The bread fruit in its various forms constitutes the principal article of food among them, and is found in great abundance. There are two crops in a year; one in May, the other in November. The greater reliance, however, is placed upon the May crop, which ripens much the best. The November crop, or what can be spared of it, is collected and baked in an Euma or oven, which is a large hole dug in the earth about two feet deep, and from two to five feet across, according to the quantity to be baked. Large flat stones are placed on the bottom, on which a fire is kindled; smaller stones are placed in the fire, which, becoming heated, are removed, the embers nicely cleared out, the stones are then covered with large green plantain leaves, the fruit also wrapped in leaves, put in, and the small heated stones put over. Water is thrown on to create a steam and the whole hastily covered with earth. After being baked, the covering of earth and stones is removed, the rind or shell scraped off, and the meat wrapped closely in leaves is placed in a large hole in the ground dug for the purpose, being placed so they will not touch each other. After the first layer is placed, a quantity of leaves are strewn over and another layer put on. Thus they proceed until the hole is full, when it is covered with earth and kept in case of a failure of the next or any other crop. It will keep so for a great length of time. One hole, while I was there, was found accidentally which was not filled within the recollection of any then living, and yet the fruit was in a perfect state and as sweet as when put there. Fruit thus prepared is called May. But if intended for the family's immediate use, the rind is also scraped off, when it is pounded to a jelly and mixed with water. This is called Poe, and is taken from the dish by the two first fingers, called "poe-fingers," which are thrust into it and twirled swiftly around the poe. Being of the consistency of paste it adheres to the finger and is thrown into the mouth. The hands are always washed, both before and after eating. Any person not doing this is driven from the dish to eat alone, as being unfit to eat there; though that seldom happens, such laws, or customs being most strictly adhered to.
As a drink, they use very freely an article called Carver, which is made from a root found in the uplands. After being dug or pulled it is chewed by the females and put in a calabash of water, when it ferments, then it is strained through long grass and is fit for use. This, if drank in copious draughts, causes a dizziness and a horribly distorted countenance. They lose the use of their limbs, and fall and roll about on the ground, until the stupefaction wears away.
The Carver is much used for medical purposes, being very efficacious in its results. If it is taken in great quantities, the skin becomes dry and parched, and peals off, like the effects of the sun's heat upon the hand or neck, leaving an entirely new and smooth surface—completely renovating the entire system.
During my stay there I was bitten by a Centipede on the ball of my thumb. The Serrever or doctor put me to bed, upon my back, as was always the position for lying, fastened my hand up to the roof of the hut, and secured a bark, in a dish-like form, around the wrist, into which he poured carver. In the morning the pain was entirely removed, and I suffered no farther inconvenience from it. The bite from them often results in death.
One curious fact respecting it is, that when chewed by the natives, it comes from the mouth dry like meal from the mill. This I often attempted to perform, but was not able to do it.
The females usually prepare it, though they are prohibited its use. During my stay I knew of but one or two instances of a violation of that law.
We loitered around the island altogether discontented. I think, however, we might have lived a few days among them tolerably well, had not the idea of our being obliged to do so, with no means of getting away, been so terribly impressed upon the mind.
We visited most of the families in the valley, and at each saw new scenes. Some were making poe, others braiding mats, while some were making tappa, oars, spears, &c.
In our rambles we were always accompanied by a score of natives, who followed us at a little distance, watching our every movement. In one instance we came to an orange grove, where we stopped to pick some of the fruit. They came running furiously to us, crying "tabu! tabu!!" at the top of their voices, and taking the fruit from us, drew us from the spot. This puzzled us not a little. We soon learned, however, that they had been reserved by the king for some special purpose, who had tabued them, or placed such restrictions upon them, that no one of the tribe dare touch them, it being considered a great offence.
The Captain being altogether sick of such a life, proposed going to Otaheite in the open boat. He urged no one to go with him, but simply proposed the thing, kindly offering to share his last morsel with those who should be disposed to undertake it with him. One after another acceded to his proposition, until all, save myself and two others, Dawson, a native of Liverpool, England, and Noyce, of Albany, New York,—had pledged themselves to go. We knowing the utter impracticability of such an undertaking at that season of the year, especially, when violent tornadoes swept over that portion of the seas, accompanied with heavy rains, would not consent to go, choosing rather to remain with the natives and run the risk of our ever getting away.
The natives were apprised of their wish to go, when they immediately repaired to the mountains, got them small pigs, a quantity of bread fruit, cocoa-nuts, bananas, &c., also a few calabashes of water.
With the most sanguine expectations they started, having nothing to guide them but a small boat compass, and promising to return and take us away. Of this we had no hopes, believing it would be an adventure of constant and unmitigated suffering, terminating in death.
We watched them as long as discernible from the beach, when, unwilling to lose sight of them, we ascended a high bluff, where with straining eyes we anxiously followed them, till by night and distance, they were entirely excluded.
With heavy hearts we returned to the valley, determined to conform, in every instance, to their whims and notions, however humiliating, hoping by so doing to obtain their confidence, which would be of vast importance to us.
After a few days spent among them, in which we most scrutinizingly watched their every movement, we were taken around to the other valleys or tribes.
The island is composed of high bluffs, running from the water inland. Between each mountain or bluff is a low fertile valley through which a small rivulet courses itself. The banks are lined with orange groves, bread fruit trees and plantains, &c., which grow in the greatest luxuriance. These valleys are occupied by different tribes, each bearing a mark peculiar to themselves. Some bear it upon the hands, others upon the face, breast, &c. The tribe with which I was connected bore it upon the hands, wrists and ancles. This was the largest tribe on the island, called the Teheda.
Each tribe which we visited were exceedingly joyous at our approach, gathering around and examining us minutely, and almost deafening us with their confounded gibbering.
At night the huts in which we stayed were filled to overflowing, so eager were they to see the "Tehoary" or white man, as they called us.
We went on day after day. On the seventh day Dawson was taken sick through the influence of the sun upon his head, or correctly speaking, was sun struck. At mid-day he would be raving, so much so, as to render it extremely difficult to take care of him. Destitute as we were of medicine and medical skill, we could do but little for him. As the day advanced and the sun declined, he would be more quiet, and remain so until its approach the next day, when he was again delirious. On the fourth day he expired in the most excruciating agony.
We had seen death seize upon his victims in almost every form, but never before had he approached seemingly so near.
As a last sad office to be performed to our departed friend, we set about digging a grave, as best we could with our rude implements of digging.
This was not allowed by the natives, who wished to take charge of it according to their own notions, which was to wind the body closely with the fine or inner bark of the Tappa, a tree much resembling the paper mulberry, this to be wound ten or fifteen times around.
The body was then taken to a small uninhabited hut and placed upon a bench, or table, made by driving sticks of bamboo into the ground, across the top of which others are fastened, and interlaid, thus forming a table about two feet high. On this the body was placed, where it was to remain until it should moulder and crumble away.
The bodies of friends are many times thus wound, and hung by a loop worked ingeniously in the covering on the top of the head, to the ridge of the house in which they live, where it remains a considerable time, when it is taken down, divested of its covering, and placed in the sun, when the outer surface, or skin, parches, and is easily rubbed off, which is done with the hand. The entrails are then removed, the body cleanly washed out, and again wound as before, and hung in its former place, where it remains until it literally falls in pieces. I have in one or two instances seen several hanging in one house, completely filling the house in and around, with the most offensive odor, yet they live unmindful of it.
The bodies of kings and those of the royal family are placed, after being wound as before described, in a hut erected on purpose, on or near the tabu ground, in a sitting posture, with the arms raised, the elbow bent to an angle, and supported by sticks of bamboo, driven in the earth. On either side is a man placed, who are taken in war, or stolen from some neighboring tribe, and sacrificed for the purpose, also wound in bark. These are supposed to accompany them in the capacity of servants.
At the expiration of three weeks we returned to our own tribe where we were most cordially received.
On our arrival we were separated from each other, and not allowed to meet but very seldom. If by chance however we stole together, we were instantly torn apart.
Being thus obliged to converse in their language, if at all, enabled us, at the expiration of some three or four months, to speak it tolerably well.
This deprivation, change of diet, and the probability of our being forever doomed to dwell among them, tended much to impair our health.
Our principal occupation was to gather the bread fruit, prepare and roast it.
