CHAPTER XIII.
Return to San Blass. Description of the Town. Strikes a Spaniard, and resists the Police. Is placed in the Stocks. Goes on board the Tammercee. The Captain is employed to take a quantity of Gold to England. Fight between the Officers. Anchor at Tehuantepec for Dye-Stuffs. Precaution used against Scorpions, Centipedes, &c. Arrival at Panama. Scenes on Shore. Arrive at Callao. Ride to Lima. Description of Lima. Arrival at Valparaiso. Again double the Cape on the wings of the wind. Arrival at Liverpool. Sketch of the City.
Getting in a cargo of dry goods, we set sail for San Blass. Smoothly we glided down the La Plata, having a gentle west wind which lasted till we made the Falklands.
Seemingly unwilling we should double the Cape with any degree of pleasantness, it veered round to the south, and freshening each moment, soon blew a hurricane which lasted thirty-six hours. When moderating, and at the same time shifting into the east, we braced full, and stood for the Cape; for eleven days the wind continued in the east, and gave us a fine passage around the Cape. We were accompanied on our way by a large Iceberg of the largest dimensions, which kept within half a mile of us for twenty-four hours.
The wind again, in a very accommodating manner, turned in our favor, driving us before it with great velocity under close reefed main-top-sail and fore-sail, for fourteen days, at which time we reached Valparaiso. Still favoring, though more lightly, we were enabled to reach San Blass in about the same time required for the outward bound voyage. Discharging our cargo we were paid off. I then went to the city of San Blass, which is five or six miles from the beach. As I remained there but a short time, I cannot be expected to give a full account of the city, which is situated on an eminence which rises an hundred or two feet gradually from the sea; and is enclosed by a huge wall, having only two gates or entrances into it. One of these is on the north side; the other, on the west side. A part of the wall which faces the sea, is built upon a ledge of rocks which rise almost perpendicular, and forms an impregnable barrier. The walls are heavily mounted with guns on the side towards the sea, and manned continually. The dwellings are mostly built of stone of ancient architecture; low and covered with tiles. The streets are narrow and dirty, though mostly paved with stone. Dissipation is carried in every thing to a great length. The inhabitants are, in a great degree, low and sensual. One day, while on shore, I traded with a Spaniard, with whom I had a few hasty words; his insolence I could not bear, and gave him a severe blow which felled him to the ground. Seeing the police on the alert I ran for the sea. Soon they overtook me. I gave the first one a blow, and threw him over a wall down a bank of a few feet. Finding more than I could easily handle, I surrendered. I was taken before the governor, who caused me to be placed in the stocks for twenty-four hours.
I had my hands, feet, and neck, placed in the stocks, which was in the hot sun, upon the burning sand, during the day; I had to look continually up to the sun, and ere night was almost blind; my face badly swollen, and almost blistered. Swarms of mosquitoes and fleas visited me at night, each paying their respects, leaving an impression upon my feelings. Crowds of natives gathered around, offering me every insult they were capable of doing. When I was taken from the stocks I could hardly walk or stand, and it required several days for me to regain the use of my limbs to any comfortable degree.
Soon as I was able I crawled down to the shore, and fell in with Captain Masters, of the ship Tammercee of Liverpool, whither he would sail in a few days. Knowing he was in want of hands, I offered myself for thirty-seven dollars per month: this he was unwilling to give. Meeting him again in a few days, he said he had seen my former captain, who gave me a good character, and a reputation as a seaman, therefore he would give me the desired wages.
I went on board and was given the second mate's duty, which the ship carpenter had performed.
At evening the captain selected six of us to follow him on shore. We went to a house where there was a quantity of gold coins, mostly doubloons. He ordered us to take as many as we could carry, and go for the ship. This was done twice, and daylight coming on, we were deterred from going again. This was the property of resident merchants, who wished to make a deposit in the Bank of England, and were obliged to resort to this expedient on account of the laws, which prohibited their removal. We received a present from the merchants of a doubloon each for our services, and as a sort of bribe to keep silence.
The third day after I shipped on board we set sail. This was quite the latter part of May, 1838. Mr. Evans (mate) came on board in a state of intoxication, which was the cause of hard words between him and the captain, who was a person capable of the highest degree of excitement. The captain becoming enraged, seized a spyglass and hurled it at the mate, striking him on the head and brought him to the deck; collecting himself, he passed it back in the same way, but missed his aim. Exasperated to a still greater degree, the captain rushed to the cabin and brought forward a pair of pistols, intending to shoot the mate down. His wife being aboard, and seeing by his manner there was likely to be trouble, rushed up first and placed herself between him and the mate, bidding him fire if he chose. A moment sufficed to cool him down in a measure, and the matter was dropped by putting the mate off duty for ten days.
We came to anchor at the Gulf of Tehuantepec, or the roadstead of Rosario, and moored with a swivel.—We sent down the top-gallant masts and yards, and got ready to take on a cargo at Nicaragua.
The shore at this place as well as most others on the Mexican coast is almost inaccessible, from the high rolling surf, which at this time was altogether so for the boats. There are but few harbors in Mexico; consequently we anchored the long boat out about sixty fathoms from the beach, and erected a capstan on the shore; a block was fastened to the bow of the boat, through which a hawser was passed, which also went around the capstan on shore, thus forming a continuous line from the boat to the shore. Natives were employed to lash the wood, which is cut in sticks about four feet long, to one side of the hawser and pull upon the other, and thus convey it to the boat, where men were stationed to untie and load it into other boats, and then to the ship. This wood is very rough, and full of holes and crevices, into which scorpions, centipedes, and a small blue snake, of five or six inches in length, crawl. On removing or handling it, they run out and bite the first object that comes in their way or happens to touch them.
The bite or sting of the scorpion is said to prove fatal many times in two hours; their bite in the spring and summer months are said, by Pike, to be much more suddenly fatal. He also says, in speaking of them as found in other portions of Mexico: "remove them three leagues and they become perfectly harmless and lose all their venomous qualities." As a preventive we took three bottles of spirits, (old rum) and put a scorpion in one, a centipede in another, reserving the third for the snake; they were put in alive and allowed to die in the spirits. These to be used by applying the spirits of the respective bottles to the wounds of the different species. Fortunately for us but one was bitten, which was cured by immediate application of the spirits.
A disturbance arose to our quiet one day between the captain and one of the crew, which resulted in throwing the sailor on shore, one hundred miles nearly from a habitation of any kind, except temporary ones erected by the natives who came from Acapulco, 100 miles distant, to cut and deliver the wood to ships. Seeing a shipmate thus turned off, without clothes except those worn off, with no particular means of subsistence, was more than I could endure, and I resolved to assist him. The next morning I went to the long boat as usual, taking with me two shirts and a pound of tobacco rolled up as compactly as possible. Getting to the boat I jumped over and swam as far as I could, then caught hold of the hawser for the surf or swells to pass me; dropping into the smooth sea I exerted every nerve to reach the shore before the next sea; this I was unable to do. Soon the next swell was upon me, and by its impetus I was thrown high upon the sand insensible. The natives took me up and rubbed me for a long time before I could be brought to a state of consciousness, when they gave me some spirits to drink, and in a few hours I was enabled to walk out.
At night the ship's boat was sent to take me off; the surf running so high rendered it impossible to do so, only by rowing above about five miles to a small cove. Going on board I met the captain at the gangway, who said:
"Well, boy, how is that old pelt of yours? have you got it scorched any?"
"No, sir" said I; "I have had too much experience in that business, to have the sun effect me any more than it does an alligator!"
Having finished our cargo we weighed anchor, double reefed our top-sails, set our course and stood off. Our vessel being a fast sailer, and the wind blowing a half gale from the west, soon brought us abreast of Panama. Being in want of ship stores, we put into the bay of the same name, and came to anchor. Sent a boat on shore and procured a supply of water, which was of the finest quality, and necessary stores, and were again ready for sea.
The afternoon previous to sailing we were allowed on shore, when we fell in with a company of soldiers belonging to the fort. With them we drank several times. Finding at length I was growing quite stupid—an effect altogether different from what liquor usually produces on me, I was confident it had been drugged for some purpose. Seeing the sad dilemma into which we were hastening, I proposed to walk out and work it off if possible. But we were already within their clutches. They followed and easily prevailed upon us to visit the fort to "enjoy a view of it by lamplight." I was conscious they were imposing upon us, still I could not stop; their serpent-like charms were successfully thrown around me; to resist I could not. They led us in and about the fort, pointing out its particular points of combined beauty and strength. We thought no more of duties on ship-board, or of our situation, till a late hour at night, when the effects of the drugs were leaving us.
In the morning the true nature of our situation found itself upon us. With apparent satisfaction we sent out for a bottle of spirits, which was soon brought to us. On looking around a little we found others decoyed and confined in a like manner; among them was a stout, seven-foot Irishman. We gave him a good supply of spirits, and then held up to his view the great wrong we as well as himself had sustained. Gradually the true Irish blood was seen to work in his bosom, as he reflected upon his situation and wrongs, until he became perfectly exasperated. Clenching his fists, he said:
"An' sure we'll be after leaving this place, we will."
He became violent in threatenings. The guard hearing a noise, came to learn the cause. Soon as the door was opened, the guard was seized and hurled by his arm, (now rendered doubly powerful by alcohol and anger,) half way across the yard. Others following closely up, were passed along also, till half a dozen were thus promiscuously piled up, scarce knowing how to find themselves. With a mighty effort we then rushed over those that stood outside the door, who in their dismay knew not what to do till so late that action would have been fruitless.
We ran as fast as possible to the beach and seized a boat, and went to the ship. Telling the mate of the adventure, he immediately lowered a boat and sent for the captain, who was on shore; meanwhile he got the anchor up and was ready for sea.
The captain coming aboard, we bid farewell to Panama, leaving our harbor fees unpaid.
What became of the Irishman I never knew, as he took a different course from the rest of us after leaving the fort.
Nothing of note occurred until we were off the coast of Peru and dropped our anchor at Callao, the seaport of Lima, the capital of Peru, which is situated seven miles from the shore. After the ship was well secured, a ride was proposed to Lima, in which several of us joined. We proceeded to a stable in which were a great number of horses, trained to the saddle alone. Each procured one by paying a dollar in advance, with which a ticket also was obtained for entrance into the city. Those horses were so well trained that they required no guidance whatever; by simply throwing the line upon the neck loosely, they set off into a fine gallop, which they held till they reached the city.
On starting we received an urgent injunction to "look well to the saddle," they care but little about the horse. Arriving at the gates of the city, a sentry appeared who demanded our tickets, which, after examining, he handed back and allowed us to pass on. The horses setting off at full gallop soon brought us to another stable, which is connected with the one at which we obtained our horses. Here we dismounted, giving ourselves no farther trouble about them. We wandered around the city as long as we chose. When returning to the stable we found our horses refreshed, with no additional expense, and ready to take us back to Callao.
The waters of the Rimac, on which Lima is situated, are clear and transparent. The city is four miles long, by two broad, and is surrounded by brick walls, which are heavily mounted with cannon.
This city, next to Mexico, is the finest built by the Spaniards in the New World; its streets are straight and handsome; the houses are built only of one story, on account of earthquakes by which they are frequented. Lima was founded by Pizarro in 1534, and by him called Los Reges, or the "City of the Kings." Like all other Spanish cities, Lima has a great square in the centre, where all the principal streets terminate. On this square the principal public buildings stand; such as the cathedral, the university, the treasury, the arsenal, and the town hall.
The churches and convents are still beautiful, though robbed of vast wealth during the last revolution. It is estimated that about one-fourth of the population are whites.
Leaving Callao we had a fine breeze, set studding-sails alow and aloft. When abreast Valparaiso, the wind veered around into the south and blew a stiff breeze, which obliged us to lay off and on for a few days. The wind dying away, we put into the harbor of Valparaiso, which is the most singular one I ever entered. The water is of vast depth, being upwards of fifty fathoms within a short distance of the town. We spent some little time on shore, which we enjoyed very finely indeed; found the natives kind and hospitable. The men follow the European fashion of dress, while the females adhere strictly to that of Peru. Many of the common and lower classes wear the ponsha, which is simply a large cloth with a hole in it for the neck. In the use of the lasso they equal if not excel any other people, throwing it with the greatest precision. Children at an early age practice the lasso upon poultry and cats, which they throw with unerring aim.
By the gradual change in the temperature of the atmosphere we were forcibly reminded of nearness to the Cape, which we were again to double. Finding the quantity of spirits on hand insufficient as we then thought for the occasion, we told the captain we would not double the Cape with so small a supply. Against this he remonstrated. We urged him to compliance.
After spending a week at Valparaiso, we left the harbor and stood at sea with a fair wind from the west; thus we ran about thirty-six hours, when the wind hauled into the north.
"Dreary and hollow moans foretold a gale;
Nor long the issue tarried; then the wind,
Unprisoned, blew its trumpet loud and shrill;
* * * * the rain
Came down like music."
The fore and main royals were clewed up; the breeze still freshening, we clewed up and stowed the fore and main-top-gallant sails, running thus until near daylight, when we single reefed the top-sails. At twelve that day, were under close reefed main-top-sail and reefed fore-sail, bounding along at the rate of twelve knots per hour. Thus we ran until we sighted Terra del Fuego. As we hauled around the Cape the wind seemed to follow us; the sea ran quarterly on the vessel and very high.
A heavy sea struck us on our quarter, and hove her on her beam ends; immediately letting go the fore sheet relieved her, and again she righted, broaching to as she done so. Hauling up and stowing her fore-sail, we hove her to, headed towards the Atlantic. The wind again shifted into the southwest, and abated somewhat, still the sea ran high indeed. We made all sail possible and drove her through the swells; sometimes she would scoop up water with her bows and throw it off astern, washing the men about deck in spite of all efforts to the contrary.
The weather was intensely cold, and, had we been compelled to have staid there much longer, I fear we should have frozen to death, for our clothes were already stiff with ice.
The wind continued in the southward till we reached the entrance of St. George's Channel; cast lead and found sixty fathoms of water; then bearing full, we saw Cape Clear in a few hours. The wind heading us blew down the channel for three days, during which we could make no progress at all. This seemed indeed tedious, being so near our port of destination. The wind springing up, and all sail set, we ran up the channel for Liverpool; took in a pilot at Holy Head, who hove us to at the Old Alms Head that night, and took us in the next morning.
As we came along the pier head we hired men to secure the sails, such was our anxiety to be on shore. The next day we were paid off, and took our chests to the boarding-house.
Liverpool, at the mouth of the Mersey, on the Irish Sea, is an important commercial city, being next to London, the greatest port in the British empire.
It is situated from Manchester thirty-six miles, and two hundred and four from London. The city is irregularly built, but the public buildings are elegant.
The Exchange is double the size of the Royal Exchange of London, and cost the immense sum of £100,000.
The Town Hall is another noble edifice.
Liverpool is the grand medium through which the trade of England with Ireland and with this country is carried on; and a vast quantity of business is transacted by its merchants with the ports of the Mediterranean, East Indies, and other parts of the world. Cotton is the leading article of import, and is extensively used in the manufactures of Lancashire, of which, in 1830, out of 793,695 bales imported into England, 703,200 were brought into Liverpool.
The duties paid at the custom-house of Liverpool in 1837, were four millions, three hundred and fifty-one thousand, four hundred and ninety-six pounds, being about a fifth of those paid throughout the whole kingdom.
Liverpool is the greatest outlet for the goods manufactured in Lancashire and Yorkshire, for sale in America. The town, thus so extensively concerned in that commerce from which England derives its chief glory, presents many external features not unworthy of its mercantile character. Of these the chief are the docks, the sight of which, bristling with numberless masts, and a scene of constant bustle from loading and unloading, fills a stranger with amazement. The town contains several handsome streets, the chief being Castle street and Dale street. There are many well conducted charitable institutions. About fifteen hundred patients are admitted annually in the infirmary.
The Blue-Coat hospital maintains and educates about two hundred boys and girls.
The school for the blind is on a most extensive scale.
A handsome and spacious theatre, and a circus, are open during a great part of the year.
At the Royal Liverpool Institution, public lectures are given; and attached to it is a philosophical apparatus and a museum of natural curiosities.
A Botanic Garden was established in 1801, at the expense of about ten thousand pounds.
Among the remarkable objects connected with the town, the ornamental cemetery of St. James, formed out of an old stone quarry, is worthy of particular notice.