CHAPTER XVI.
Sail for London. Arrive at the Downs. Sail for St. Johns. A dense fog. Bay of Fundy. Come to anchor at St. Johns. Proceed to London. Sail for the East Indies. Study Navigation. Arrive at St. Helena. Tomb of Napoleon. Reach Cape Town. Description of the Country. Of the several Tribes. Arrive at Calcutta. Description of the Ganges, and its Religious Rites. Of Calcutta. Sail for Canton. Tiger Island. Straits of Malacca. Preparations for Pirates. Arrive at Canton. Its description. Chinese Floating Town. Manners and Customs. Fourth of July. Sail for England. Misconduct of the Mate. His discharge. Arrival at London.
The last of July we weighed anchor, and spread our sails bound for London. Nothing worthy of note occurred on the passage to Gibralter, at which place we stopped. Sent a boat ashore for fresh provisions, and soon it came back richly laden with fruits, and a quantity of wine for the use of the seamen. We were allowed three glasses of wine per day, and on Saturday night one bottle was allowed each four men. Bracing full, we were soon through the gut of Gibralter, homeward bound; and in a few days were in the chops of the channel of Old England. Had fine weather, though a head wind to contend with. While we were thus detained by adverse winds, we were employed in cleaning the ship. We lay thus several days when the wind veered around in our favor. Our sky-sails, and studding-sails were set alow and aloft; and in forty-eight hours we came to anchor at the Downs. This is the sea between the shore and the Goodwin Sands, which furnishes a large and usually safe anchorage for vessels, where they ride at their leaving or entering the Thames. Here were seventy or eighty ships laying at anchor, all flying the British colors. We lay here three days, when we were taken in tow to Graves End, and the next tide took us up abreast the London docks, where we anchored and awaited the next tide, when we docked the ship. This was near the last of September, 1839. We spent a few days visiting various places of interest, (which I shall notice when I speak of London.) At the expiration of which time I shipped on board the Cornet, Captain Tabor, bound to St. Johns, which is the principal town in New Brunswick; and is situated at the mouth of the St. Johns river, which is navigable for vessels of fifty tons, for nearly fifty miles, and is a place of extensive trade.
As they were nearly in readiness, we soon left and proceeded down the channel. Nothing worthy of particular notice occurred until we reached the Newfoundland Banks, which place is almost constantly thronged with vast numbers of fishing smacks. Here we encountered a fog so dense, that scarcely could we see from one side of the ship to the other. We shortened sail, keeping the bell almost constantly ringing. We lay in this position several days, when an east wind broke the fog, so that we were enabled to get into fair sailing. It is not unfrequently that vessels with a press of sail run down some small fisherman, and nothing more is heard of them. After a few days of fair sailing we made Cape Sable, off our starboard bow. This was a sight long wished for, as is always the case with seamen when bound to any particular port. We hauled our wind and stood up the bay, making the land a few miles below Eastport. Ran up the Bay of Fundy with a delightful wind.
The Bay of Fundy is a considerable arm of the sea, extending into the British Provinces, about two hundred miles. At its entrance from the sea, it is about twelve degrees wide, gradually decreasing as it proceeds inland. It is remarkable for its tides, which in consequence of the abundance of its water between the shores is swelled from the height of from forty to sixty feet. So rapid are its flood tides, that small vessels are overturned, and small animals overtaken and devoured. At the ebb, small coasting vessels are often left upon the flats; care being taken so that the heavy swell, called the bore, as it strikes them, will beat against them at either the head or stern. We took on board a pilot, who in a few hours brought us to anchor safely at St. Johns. Our vessel was pulled up for repairs, and all hands paid off except myself.
During my stay I became acquainted with a girl of Irish descent, whom I married; I procured me a house and necessary stores, and was in a way to live.
The first of December I shipped on board the Coronation, bound for London, with a cargo of timber. On our arrival orders were given to fit ship and proceed to the East Indies. Accordingly the ship was put in readiness, and about the last of January, 1840, we left London, bound for Calcutta, and this I think about the finest voyage that I ever made. We had been out but a few days when we took the trade winds, and ran forty days without scarcely touching brace or halyards. Having watch and watch, the captain told those who had a mind to spend their watch below and study navigation, he would with the greatest pleasure assist. Five of us gladly availed ourselves of this opportunity, and daily we spent our allotted time in study. At the expiration of a few weeks we had made such progress under our accomplished teacher, that each of us could work a day's work tolerable well. We ran down close to St. Helena, and anchored for the purpose of making a short visit to this memorable place, a brief description of which may interest my readers. This celebrated island is in the Atlantic ocean, 1,200 miles distant from any land; the nearest being the coast of South Africa. It is about ten miles long, and six broad, and is as a general thing, a barren waste. It presents the appearance to the approacher, of nothing but an immense wall of perpendicular rock, extremely abrupt at its northern extremity, but more shelving towards the south; varying in height from 600 to 1,200 feet. There are only four openings in the great wall of rock, which surrounds St. Helena, by which it can be approached with any facility, and these are all strongly fortified. This island has become celebrated by being the place to which the allied sovereigns of Europe banished Napoleon, in 1815, where he remained till his death, in 1821. His tomb is in a secluded recess, and is surrounded by a fence, enclosing a piece of ground containing weeping willows. The island is owned by the English East India Company.
Nothing worthy of notice occurred after leaving St. Helena, until we reached the Cape of Good Hope. We stopped at Cape Town, the capital of Cape Colony, and it may not be out of place here to give a brief description of the country and its inhabitants, or so much as came under my observation.
The district called Cape Colony, occupies the southern extremity of Africa. The leading feature in the aspect of the territory, consists in three successive ranges of mountains, running parallel east and west; and forming as it were a succession of terraces, rising above each other; the range farthest from the coast called the Snowy Mountains being the highest, and the first range, or that nearest the coast called the Lange Kloof, or Long Pass, the lowest. The Snowy Mountains are the highest in southern Africa, and the summits are generally covered with snow. Their greatest height will not fall short of 10,000 feet. The plain next the sea is covered with a deep and fertile soil, watered by numerous streams, and clothed with a beautiful variety of trees and shrubs. There are frequent rains, and from its nearness to the sea, enjoys a mild and equable temperature. The Karroos, a name given to the plains between the second and third mountain ranges, presents a dreary uniformity of level surface 300 miles in length, and 100 in breadth; the soil of which is hard and impenetrable, and destitute of all kind of vegetation. Table Mountain overlooks Cape Town, and rises abruptly like the ruins of a gigantic fortress. The highest point is about 3,588 feet above Table Bay.
The west side of this stupendous mass of rock is rent into hollows and worn away into pyramidal masses. The mountain is very difficult of ascent on account of numerous loose stones which make an unsafe foothold for the traveler. The summit is level, and very barren and bare of soil. Baboons, antelopes, vultures, and toads are sometimes to be met with on the mountain. The view from the summit is very extensive and picturesque. The bay seems a small pond or basin, and the ships in it are dwindled to little boats; the town, and the regular compartments of its gardens, look like the work of children, all is so dwindled into mere specks or lines.
The air on the summit in winter and in the shade, is generally about 15° lower than that of the town; but in summer a fleecy cloud called the "Table-cloth" appears on the mountain and gives indication of an approaching storm. This cloud is composed of immense masses of fleecy whiteness. It does not appear to be at rest on the hill, but to be constantly rolling onward from the southeast; yet, to the surprise of the beholder, it never descends, because the snowy wreaths seen falling over the precipice towards the town below, vanish completely before they reach it, while others are formed to replace them on the other side. The two principal rivers on the western coast are the Berg or Mountain river, and the "Elephants' river," and these are only navigable by small crafts to the distance of about 20 miles up the country.
On the south coast is Broad river. Its mouth, now called Port Beaufort, allows vessels of 200 tons to enter, and discharge or load in safety.
The river Gamity, the next in size on the coast, is a collection of waters from the Great Karroo and Black Mountains. In the rainy season it is a rapid and dangerous stream. Most of these rivers swelled by periodical rains, deposit much mud and sand at their mouths. Some of them during the dry season are lost amid the sand and rocks.
In this colony the seasons are divided into Monsoons, of which there are two, annually; the one wet, and the other dry. The wet monsoon is called winter, and the dry, summer. The weather during the wet monsoon is disagreeable and moist, but the cold is not severe. Ice is never more than an eighth of an inch thick. Thunder and lightning are very rare and seldom violent. The atmosphere is healthy and agrees well with European constitutions.
The cape has long been celebrated among naturalists as a fertile field for their labors. Almost every animal found on the African continent may be found in the neighborhood of this colony. Two varieties of lions, the yellow and the brown, zebras, elephants, rhinoceros, the giraffe and buffalo, are all found there.
Wine is manufactured at the Cape and exported in considerable quantities. Many kinds of wine are extremely cheap, and a large quantity is consumed in the colony.
Cape Town, the capital, was founded in 1652, and is built with great regularity. The streets are wide, intersecting each other at right angles. There are some 1500 houses which are for the most part constructed of stone, cemented with a glutinous kind of earth, and are generally white-washed on the outside. Their height is seldom more than two floors, frequent storms rendering a greater elevation dangerous. Many of the houses have trees planted before them, which gives a rural appearance to the town.
To the southward of the town, a great number of elegant villas are scattered about, and the scenery resembles that of the rich and cultivated districts of England. Labor, house-rent and firewood constitute a large proportion of the expenses of living at Cape Town. Fruits, vegetables and sea fish are abundant and cheap. For amusements they have horse-races, balls, masquerades, and Sunday promenades in the government gardens. The population, by the census of 1827, was 120,036, of whom 35,509 were slaves. The country was first settled by the Dutch, but has since fallen into the hands of the English.
The state of society at Cape Town is not deserving of much praise; but the ladies are distinguished for sweetness and affability. A considerable portion of the inhabitants are Hottentots. There are also Dutch, German, English and a few French. The color of the Hottentots is a yellow brown, and their formation is peculiar. They have very small hands and feet; their faces are broad above and narrow to a point; cheek bones prominent and their lips thick. In some tribes the wool grows in little tufts, and when suffered to grow hangs in fringes. They have been called a stupid race, but seem to be so only from their oppressed condition; they are gentle and faithful when trusted. They are filthy in their persons and indolent in their habits.
The Bushmen are a tribe of Hottentots anciently separated from the rest. They have been described as the lowest grade of human nature. A traveler in that country mentions having met a horde of them, only one of whom had a name, and he was called the "Old Boy."
Their women are, to European eyes, very repulsive objects—lean and gaunt, except over the hips where all the flesh seems to be piled. The Hottentots smear themselves with fat and soot, and are so used to it that when washed one seems to be without clothes. The dress consists chiefly of the skins of sheep which they wear with the wool, generally in the form of a cloak, open before. This is called a carosse. The females have a petticoat of skins or leather. They wear many ornaments of beads, rings, carved bones, &c. The handkerchiefs of the Hottentots are jackals' tails tied to a handle; and with these they wipe the perspiration from their faces. Their language is harsh and shrill. For dwellings a few poles are bent over and skins or mats thrown over them. The entrance is low, and serves for door, window and chimney. The tribes which have cattle, pen them at night in the circle inclosed by the huts.
Almost any kind of food is acceptable to Hottentots; they eat roots, ants, grass, mice, toads, &c. They can long abstain from food, and can eat an enormous quantity without injury. All the tribes are fond of tobacco, which for the want of a better pipe, they smoke through the shank bone of a sheep. They smoke also the leaves of a kind of hemp called dacha, which stupefies and intoxicates. Much brandy is drank which is spread over the colony by means of traveling pedlars.
Some of the wines of the Cape are excellent. There are one hundred and fifty varieties, some of which have a deleterious mixture of brandy.
The manner of traveling among the Colonists is in wagons drawn by six or seven yoke of oxen.
As there are no taverns or places for refreshments, they carry sheep and other provisions with them.
The Caffres are a plundering people, robbing each other at every possible opportunity. They are excellent herdsmen and have their herds so well trained that they are guided altogether by a shrill whistle. The punishments for offence are whipping with rods—exposure to a cluster of black ants—burning with hot stones—and death inflicted by clubs, or drowning.
In their huts they sit on the skulls of cattle, with the horns attached, serving as arm pieces.
We weighed anchor and proceeded on our voyage, passing through the Mozambique Channel. This channel separates the island of Madagascar from the main land, and is of about one thousand miles in length. Its waters are very swift and extremely rough, and are infested with hordes of pirates, who adhere to the island of Madagascar principally.
Here we spoke several vessels, the Clinton of New York, and the Brazen Head of Liverpool.
Nothing of interest occurred till we reached the soundings off the river Hoogly, or Little Ganges. These soundings or banks extend from the mouth of the river out to the distance of from sixty to a hundred miles. Innumerable numbers of pilots are stationed on them at all seasons and all hours.
The Ganges, one of the noblest streams in the world, rises in the vast mountains of Thibet and is supposed by the natives to possess virtues capable of purifying them from every sin and transgression. At sunset they light tapers and throw into the river, which are so constructed as to stand erect as they float on with the current.
Thousands of them are thrown in at a time, affording a scene which is without a parallel in interest and singularity.
Crowds of Hindoos are seen at all times washing in its water and saying their prayers in a kneeling posture on its banks.
The waters of the Ganges are carried in great quantities to all parts of India, and are sworn by in courts of justice.
Statham, in his "Indian Recollections," says, "At Allahabad where the streams of the Ganges and the Jumna unite, the country for miles around is considered sacred ground; and so great is the number of pilgrims, who resort thither for bathing, that the vizier has received in one year, half a lac of rupees for permission to enjoy the benefit of immersion in its sacred flood. Many lives are there sacrificed annually. The persons who usually fall victims to their superstitions are females, who come from all parts of the country to perform the tragic deed, and who show a firmness of purpose worthy a better cause.
"Several of them, accompanied by the priests, embark in a boat, and proceed to the spot where the streams unite, when each of the victims in succession descends from the boat into the water, with a large earthen pan fastened to her body, and is supported by a priest till she has filled the pan with water, when the priest lets go his hold and she sinks to rise no more, amidst the applause of the spectators, while the Brahmins enjoy the scene, and extol the fortitude of the last victim to her who is about to follow."
The cow is an animal held sacred among the Hindoos, and the dung is used in the temples and other places as a species of holy ointment.
The Ganges empties itself into the bay of Bengal by two large channels, and by a number of smaller size.
On the river Hoogly or western channel stands Calcutta, the capital of British India, 100 miles from the sea. The length of the town is about six miles, extending along the banks of the river. As you approach Calcutta from the sea, it has the appearance of a vast and beautifully arranged city. Tall and elegant houses ornamented with spacious pillars and verandas meet the eye along the whole length of the town, and completely shutting out from view the "Black Town," or the native town of Calcutta, which is composed of low dirty huts, made of earth baked in the sun, placed along the narrow and crooked streets. Occasionally, however, a larger one is seen which denotes the residence of some wealthy native, yet this like all others is entirely devoid of neatness.
We employed natives to discharge our cargo as they could better endure the sun's heat.
Taking on a cargo of rice, we received orders to sail for Canton, and proceeded down the river, and passed Tiger island, so called, from the great abundance of tigers which are found there.
They occasionally swim from the island to the main land, which is about two miles distant.
A few years since a fire swept over the island and almost entirely drove them from it. Many were killed by the flames, and in the general confusion many were drowned, while vast numbers were killed by the ships' crews, that were stationed around.
The ninth day after our departure the pilot left us and resumed his station on the shoals to await the next ship that might require his services.
The weather proved unfavorable indeed, and obliged us to beat about, making but little progress.
Taking a fine breeze and a leading wind, we were soon in the straits of Malacca, which separate the peninsular of Malacca from the island of Sumatra. Those straits are infested with pirates of a most desperate character, seizing upon every opportunity for plundering vessels, and oftentimes are not satiated until all of the crew have fallen victims to their murderous cruelty.
Most of the vessels that pass these straits are traders, and therefore but poorly prepared for defence.
We prepared ourselves in the best manner possible for an attack, collecting all the small arms, knives, &c., and loaded the two twelve pounders which were on the quarter deck.
We ran through the straits without any molestation whatever; headed our wind and ran across the gulf of Siam; spoke the ship Rothchilds, 14 days from Canton, bound for London; and after the usual salutation, and request to be reported at home as well, we passed on, and in ten days we were at the mouth of the river Canton.
Here we lay at anchor 14 days in consequence of head winds, which at length favoring us, we proceeded up the river till we came to the island of Lintin situated about fifty miles from Canton, where we came to anchor, and entered our cargo, paying the duty. The duty consists of a tax upon the tonnage of the vessel, and upon the different kinds of goods with which she may be laden.
Besides this tax there is a kumshaw or a present to government required, which is demanded alike of vessels of all sizes. Our whole tax amounted to about five hundred dollars. At Lintin we discharged a part of our cargo, and from thence proceeded up the river to Canton and came to anchor, and discharged the remainder of our cargo.
Canton is situated on the eastern bank of the river Pekiang, which is a beautiful stream about one-third of a mile wide. This is the only port of trade of any importance in China. The city with its ponds and pleasure grounds covers an area of about seven miles in circumference, and is enclosed with a wall, which is at short intervals mounted with cannon.
There are several entrances which are, beside the strong iron gates, guarded with one or more soldiers. At night these gates are closed, and at each street bars are thrown across the entrance. All foreigners are almost entirely excluded, being only allowed within the populous portions with permission.
Their only land locations are at the hongs which are built on the bank of the river near to the water's edge, and devoted almost entirely to them.
One of the most pleasing sights is the Chinese floating town, which is composed of fifty or sixty thousand vessels of different kinds which are placed in rows tightly together. Here families are born, live and die, without ever stepping on shore. This town extends several miles down the river from Canton.
China street is almost wholly occupied by the Chinese merchants, where they practice all kinds of fraud upon foreigners, considering themselves entitled to honor for the art which they proclaim most loudly.
Occasionally, however, the biter has been most horridly bitten, by some honest son from yankeedom.
The Chinese, though of Tartar origin, have through the influence of the climate degenerated sadly, possessing but little of the courage and strength so justly ascribed to the Tartar.
Their dress is a long robe hanging below the knee. Over this is worn a girdle of silk, usually, in which they carry a sheathed knife and two sticks, used as forks, called chop sticks. They are extremely slovenly in their dress and person, seldom, if ever, washing a garment. The hair, except a small tuft on the top of the head, is shaven off. This tuft is suffered to grow, and when of sufficient length is plaited or braided, and hangs down upon the back. The hat or head covering is of woven cane.
The females are treated as slaves and are made oftentimes to draw the plough, while the husband goads her on with the whip.
Pressing the feet of infants, which is carried to such extremes among the Chinese, is a most barbarous practice. They are so closely bound that they cease to grow, and it is with the greatest difficulty that they walk. This is usually done at the age of five years. The foot is a mere lump of lifeless flesh and bears a strong resemblance to the hand of a wash-woman which has been long in strong suds.
Such is the immense population of China, that nothing that can be eaten is thrown away. Puppies and rats are carried about the streets for sale. A favorite dish is made of birds' nests which are composed of glutinous substances.
We lay at Canton the fourth of July. At an early hour, as is usual for all American vessels, wherever they may be, we hoisted the national flag and fired a grand salute. The day was spent in fine style with the other American vessels which also lay at anchor at Canton, by visiting each other, singing national airs, and firing salutes.
Never did an anchor come to a ship's side or was a sail made quicker, or in finer style, than that on board of the Coronation, as we left the port on the 7th of July. We proceeded down the river and stood out into the China sea, where we were delayed several days by strong head winds, which came around into our favor.
Again we made preparations to meet those unwelcome visitors of the straits. We however had but little use for our guns, for we were carried through the straits with a fine breeze, without even seeing one of their murderous craft, which are large open boats propelled by 100 or 150 oars.
We now shaped our course for Good Hope, where we arrived in due season, without any unusual occurrence, and came to anchor at Cape Town. Procuring a supply of water and provision, we again set sail for Old England with as fine a breeze as ever wafted a mariner on his way. One fine evening a number of us were sitting on, or standing around the windlass, each telling some adventure of his own, when one of the number observed a dark and angry cloud arising in the northeast, which as he thought betokened a squall. This he made known to the mate, who was walking, and received in reply a bitter curse, and a request to mind his own business. Our fore, main and mizzen-royal and main-sky-sail were set, and all were waiting in breathless silence for its approach. At last one proposed to call the captain or advised him to do so, when he flew into a perfect rage, and said he would have them know that he was master of the deck and was not going to receive orders or advices from any fore-mast Jack.
Soon the fury of the storm burst upon us, and when the masts, yards, and sails were already starting from their places, the order, "Let go the halyards fore and aft," came, but it came too late, for ere the sound died upon the breeze they were dangling at the ship's sides, the noise of which soon brought the master upon deck, who asked why he was not called on the approach of the squall. The mate replied that he was unconscious of the extent of it. All hands were called to clear the wreck, and found the fore and main-top-gallant-masts and yards were carried away, and mizzen-top and fore-top-mast badly sprung. Some words passed between the captain and mate, which ended in the mate's discharge, or rather he was thrown off duty.
After the damage was repaired I was called upon to fill the vacancy made by his discharge, which position I kept until the voyage was made. Every thing passed well and we arrived in London about the last of December, 1840, being absent about 11 months.
All hands were paid off; the ship was to run to St. Johns, N. B., and all who wished could go in her. She remained in London four or five weeks, which time I improved by visiting places of amusement in and around London.