| | PAGE |
| CHAPTER I. |
| Departure from Constantinople—Arrival in Odessa—Quarantine | [1] |
| CHAPTER II. |
| Streets of Odessa—Jews—Hotels—Partiality of the Russians for Odessa—Hurricane, Dust, Mud, Climate, &c.—Public Buildings | [5] |
| CHAPTER III. |
| The Imperial Family in Odessa—Church Music—Society of the Place, Count and Countess Voronzof—Anecdote of the Countess Braniska—The Theatre—Theatrical Row | [10] |
| CHAPTER IV. |
| Commerce of the Black Sea—Prohibitive System and its Pernicious Results—Depressed State of Agriculture—Trade of Odessa—Its Bank | [14] |
| CHAPTER V. |
| Navigation, Charge for Freight, &c. in the Black Sea | [26] |
| CHAPTER VI. |
| Agriculture and Manufactures of Southern Russia—Mineral Productions—Russian Workmen | [28] |
| CHAPTER VII. |
| Departure from Odessa—Travelling in Russia—Nikolaïef, Olvia, Otshakof—Kherson—The Dniepr—General Potier—Ancient Tumuli—Steppes of the Black Sea—A Russian Village— Snow Storm—Narrow Escape from Suffocation—A Russian Family—Appendix | [32] |
| CHAPTER VIII. |
| An Earthquake—Ludicrous Anecdote—Sledging—Sporting—Dangerous Passage of the Dniepr—Thaw; Spring-Time—Manners and Customs of the Little Russians—Easter Holidays—The Clergy | [45] |
| CHAPTER IX. |
| Excursion on the Banks of the Dniepr—Doutchina—Election of the Marshals and Judges of the Nobility at Kherson—Horse-Racing—Strange Story in the "Journal des Débats"—A Country House and its Visiters—Traits of Russian Manners—The Wife of Two Husbands—Servants—Murder of a Courier—Appendix | [55] |
| CHAPTER X. |
| Departure for the Caspian—Iekaterinoslav—Potemkin's Ruined Palace—Paskevitch's Caucasian Guard—Sham Fight—Intolerable Heat—Cataracts of the Dniepr—German Colonies—The Setcha of the Zaporogues—A French Steward—Night Adventure—Colonies of the Moloshnia Vodi—Mr. Cornies—The Doukoboren, a Religious Sect | [69] |
| CHAPTER XI. |
| Marioupol—Berdiansk—Knavish Jew Postmaster—Taganrok—Memorials of Peter the Great and Alexander—Great Fair—The General with Two Wives—Morality in Russia—Adventures of a Philhellene—A French Doctor—The English Consul—Horse Races—A First Sight of the Kalmucks | [82] |
| CHAPTER XII. |
| Departure from Taganrok—Sunset in the Steppes—A Gipsy Camp—Rostof; a Town unparalleled in the Empire— Navigation of the Don—Azof; St. Dimitri—Aspect of the Don—Nakitchevane, and its Armenian Colony | [89] |
| CHAPTER XIII. |
| General Remarks on New Russia—Antipathy between the Muscovites and Malorossians—Foreign Colonies—General aspect of the Country, Cattle, &c.—Want of Means of Communication—River Navigation; Bridges—Character of the Minister of Finance—History of the Steamboat on the Dniestr—The Board of Roads and Ways—Anecdote— Appendix | [96] |
| CHAPTER XIV. |
| The different Conditions of Men in Russia—The Nobles— Discontent of the Old Aristocracy—The Merchant Class—Serfdom—Constitution of the Empire; Governments— Consequences of Centralisation; Dissimulation of Public Functionaries—Tribunals—The Colonel of the Gendarmerie—Corruption—Pedantry of Forms—Contempt of the Decrees of the Emperor and the Senate—Singular Anecdote; Interpretation of a Will—Radical Evils in the Judicial Organisation—History and present State of Russian Law | [102] |
| CHAPTER XV. |
| Public Instruction—Corps of Cadets—Universities and Elementary Schools; Anecdote—Plan of Education—Motives for attending the Universities—Statistics—Professors; their Ignorance—Exclusion of Foreign Professors—Engineering— Obstacles to Intellectual Improvement—Characteristics of the Sclavonic Race | [127] |
| CHAPTER XVI. |
| Entry into the Country of the Don Cossacks—Female Pilgrims of Kiev; Religious Fervour of the Cossacks—Novo Tcherkask, Capital of the Don—Street-lamps guarded by Sentinels—The Streets on Sunday—Cossack Hospitality and Good Nature—Their Veneration for Napoleon's Memory | [134] |
| CHAPTER XVII. |
| Origin of the Don Cossacks—Meaning of the Name—The Khirghis Cossacks—Races anterior to the Cossacks— Sclavonic Emigrations towards the East | [137] |
| CHAPTER XVIII. |
| Journey from Novo Tcherkask along the Don—Another Knavish Postmaster—Muscovite Merchants—Cossack Stanitzas | [154] |
| CHAPTER XIX. |
| First Kalmuck Encampments—The Volga—Astrakhan—Visit to a Kalmuck Princess—Music, Dancing, Costume, &c.— Equestrian Feats—Religious Ceremony—Poetry | [162] |
| CHAPTER XX. |
| Historical Notice of Astrakhan—Mixed Population; Armenians, Tatars—Singular Result of a Mixture of Races—Description of the Town—Hindu Religious Ceremonies—Society | [178] |
| CHAPTER XXI. |
| Commercial Position of Astrakhan—Its Importance in the Middle Ages—Its Loss of the Overland Trade from India—Commercial Statistics—Fisheries of the Caspian—Change of the Monetary System in Russia—Bad State of the Finances—Russian Political Economy | [187] |
| CHAPTER XXII. |
| Departure from Astrakhan—Coast of the Caspian—Hawking— Houidouk—Three Stormy Days passed in a Post-house— Armenian Merchants—Robbery committed by Kalmucks—Camels—Kouskaia—Another Tempest—Tarakans—A reported Gold Mine | [202] |
| CHAPTER XXIII. |
| Another Robbery at Houidouk—Our Nomade Life—Camels—Kalmuck Camp—Quarrel with a Turcoman Convoy, and Reconciliation—Love of the Kalmucks for their Steppes; Anecdote—A Satza—Selenoi Sastava—Fleeced by a Lieutenant-Colonel—Camel-drivers beaten by the Kalmucks—Alarm of a Circassian Incursion—Sources of the Manitch—The Journey arrested—Visit to a Kalmuck Lady— Hospitality of a Russian Officer | [208] |
| CHAPTER XXIV. |
| Review of the History of the Kalmucks | [221] |
| CHAPTER XXV. |
| The Kalmucks after the Departure of Oubacha—Division of the Hordes, Limits of their Territory—The Turcoman and Tatar Tribes in the Governments of Astrakhan and the Caucasus— Christian Kalmucks—Agricultural Attempts—Physical, Social, and Moral Characteristics of the Kalmucks | [235] |
| CHAPTER XXVI. |
| Buddhism—Kalmuck Cosmogony—Kalmuck Clergy—Rites and Ceremonies—Polygamy—The Kirghix | [247] |
| CHAPTER XXVII. |
| The Tatars and Mongols—The Kaptshak—History and Traditions of the Nogais | [264] |
| CHAPTER XXVIII. |
| Banks of the Kouma; Vladimirofka—M. Rebrof's Repulse of a Circassian Foray—Bourgon Madjar—Journey along the Kouma—View of the Caucasian Mountains—Critical Situation—Georgief—Adventure with a Russian Colonel—Story of a Circassian Chief | [276] |
| CHAPTER XXIX. |
| Road from Georgief to the Waters of the Caucasus—A Polish Lady carried off by Circassians—Piatigorsk—Kislovodsk—History of the Mineral Waters of the Caucasus | [285] |
| CHAPTER XXX. |
| SITUATION OF THE RUSSIANS AS TO THE CAUCASUS. |
| History of their Acquisition of the Trans-Caucasian Provinces— General Topography of the Caucasus—Armed Line of the Kouban and the Terek—Blockade of the Coasts—Character and Usages of the Mountaineers—Anecdote—Visit to a Circassian Prince | [293] |
| CHAPTER XXXI. |
| Retrospective View of the War in the Caucasus—Vital Importance of the Caucasus to Russia—Designs on India, Central Asia, Bokhara, Khiva, &c.—Russian and English Commerce in Persia | [309] |
| CHAPTER XXXII. |
| A Storm in the Caucasus—Night Journey; Dangers and Difficulties—Stavropol—Historical Sketch of the Government of the Caucasus and the Black Sea Cossacks | [334] |
| CHAPTER XXXIII. |
| Rapid Journey from Stavropol—Russian Wedding—Perilous Passage of the Don; all sorts of Disasters by Night—Taganrok; Commencement of the Cold Season—The German Colonies revisited | [343] |
| CHAPTER XXXIV. |
| Departure for the Crimea—Balaclava—Visit to the Monastery of St. George—Sevastopol—The Imperial Fleet | [349] |
| CHAPTER XXXV. |
| Bagtche Serai—Historical Revolutions of the Crimea—The Palace of the Khans—Countess Potocki | [358] |
| CHAPTER XXXVI. |
| Simpheropol—Karolez—Visit to Princess Adel Bey—Excursion to Mangoup Kaleh | [366] |
| CHAPTER XXXVII. |
| Road to Baidar—The Southern Coast; Grand Scenery—Miskhor and Aloupka—Predilection of the Great Russian Nobles for the Crimea | [371] |
| CHAPTER XXXVIII. |
| Three Celebrated Women | [375] |
| CHAPTER XXXIX. |
| Ialta—Koutchouk Lampat—Parthenit—The Prince de Ligne's Hazel—Oulou Ouzen; a Garden converted into an Aviary—Tatar Young Women—Excursion to Soudagh— Mademoiselle Jacquemart | [387] |
| CHAPTER XL. |
| Ruins of Soldaya—Road to Theodosia—Caffa—Muscovite Vandalism—Peninsula of Kertch—Panticapea and its Tombs | [391] |
| CHAPTER XLI. |
| POLITICAL AND COMMERCIAL REVOLUTIONS OF THE CRIMEA. |
| Extent and Character of Surface—Milesian and Heraclean Colonies—Kingdom of the Bosphorus—Export and Import Trade in the Times of the Greek Republics—Mithridates— The Kingdom of the Bosphorus under the Romans—The Alans and Goths—Situation of the Republic of Kherson—The Huns; Destruction of the Kingdom of the Bosphorus—The Khersonites put themselves under the Protection of the Byzantine Empire—Dominion of the Khazars—The Petchenegues and Romans—The Kingdom of Little Tatary—Rise and Fall of the Genoese Colonies—The Crimea under the Tatars—Its Conquest by the Russians | [402] |
| CHAPTER XLII. |
| Commercial Polity of Russia in the Crimea—Caffa sacrificed in Favour of Kertch—These two Ports compared—The Quarantine at the Entrance of the Sea of Azof, and its Consequences—Commerce of Kertch—Vineyards of the Crimea; the Valley of Soudak—Agriculture—Cattle— Horticulture—Manufactures; Morocco Leather—Destruction of the Goats—Decay of the Forests—Salt Works—General Table of the Commerce of the Crimea—Prospects of the Tatar Population | [410] |
| CHAPTER XLIII. |
| HISTORICAL SKETCH OF BESSARABIA. |
| Topology—Ancient Fortresses—The Russian Policy in Bessarabia—Emancipation of the Serfs—Colonies—Cattle—Exports and Imports—Mixed Population of the Province | [424] |
| Note | [435] |