He spent five months on his journey, and examined the country through which he passed, as much as time would permit:—Its soil, climate and productions—the manners, customs and health of the inhabitants—the animals, reptiles and insects—in short, all things favorable and unfavorable in the New World. He has freely spoken of the country just as it appeared to him; and he believes the information this work purports to give, may be safely relied upon. But if it should be found to contain errors of fact, or of opinion, he is confident they will be deemed unintentional.
It would have been quite easy to make a much larger book of the author's travels; and had he followed the example set him by some of the journalists of the day, he should have done so. But his object was not to make a large and expensive volume. He has given in a concise form, such descriptions, incidents and anecdotes only, as he believes may instruct and amuse, and enable the public to form a correct opinion of the country. How he has succeeded in his undertaking, others, of course, will judge for themselves; he hopes this little work may be found not entirely destitute of useful and entertaining matter, and prove an acceptable offering to his friends and fellow-citizens.
In the appendix, will be found a particular description of Michigan, and a Brief Sketch of the Texian Revolutionary War.
In this sketch, the author has consulted all the accounts given of this sanguinary war, and he believes it will be found correct in all its essential particulars: but he does not wish to conceal the fact, that amidst the hurry and bustle of a Revolution perfect accuracy is hardly attainable.
CONTENTS.
| [CHAPTER I.] |
| Objects of the Trip—Albany, situation and appearance—Erie canal basin—western travellers—rail road—canal boats, packets, line boats and scows—accommodations—number of boats—mode of passing each other—tow-pathbridges—accident in crossing—Erie canal—Villages and grog-shops—Trenton falls—Ithaca falls—Taghcanic falls—Rochester—canal aqueduct—Genesee falls—Sam Patch's last leap—flouring mills—Lockport—double canal locks—deep cut—arrival at Buffalo. |
| Page, [13] |
| [CHAPTER II.] |
| The city of Buffalo—steamboat on the Niagara river—Fort Erie—Black Rock—visit to Niagara falls—Canada shore—Manchester—State of New-York—emigration—return to Buffalo—different routes to the West—passage in steamboat—Cleaveland—Maumee—Monroe—number of emigrants—vessels on the lake—Detroit—the Canada shore—ferry boats. |
| [25] |
| [CHAPTER III.] |
| Travelling by stage to the mouth of St. Joseph river—miry roads—Ann Arbor—Upsilanti—oak openings—prairies and woodland—Michigan, level, clear water, but not pure—-Jackson—Marshall—Gull lake and prairie—Kalamazoo river—Bronson—Pawpaw river—St. Joseph village—lake Michigan—misfortune of an emigrant—crossing the lake—Michigan city—stage road on the beach. |
| [35] |
| [CHAPTER IV.] |
| Chicago, a general description thereof—Pottawattomie tribe of Indians, their appearance and actions—the land back of Chicago—the lakes and their original outlet through the Illinois river—character of the inhabitants of Chicago—house rent and provisions. |
| [43] |
| [CHAPTER V.] |
| Trip to Fox river—fellow travellers—river Oplane—Du Page river [Pg 6]and Naper's settlement—big and little woods—pleasant settlement of emigrants—Fox river—upper house—lost in a prairie at night—log house—travelling towards Rock river—gravel hills—Walker's grove. |
| [51] |
| [CHAPTER VI.] |
| General description of the north part of Illinois—various kinds of trees—prairies—excellent coal—government grant of land—unsurveyed land settled upon—pre-emption right—not subject to fever and ague—wild game—prairie wolves and mode of killing them—prairie rattle snakes, blackbirds and squirrels—manner of judging of a new country—anecdote of a Vermont emigrant—New-Hampshire emigrant—statements of settlers and landholders not always to be credited. |
| [57] |
| [CHAPTER VII.] |
| Holderman's Grove—Ottawa—junction of Fox and Illinois rivers—Hennipen—Princeton—present and past situation of an emigrant—massacre of Elijah Philips by the Indians, and the fortunate escape of his companions. |
| [66] |
| [CHAPTER VIII.] |
| Peoria—beauty of the surrounding country—fever and ague—scholars studying aloud in school—stages from Peoria—anecdote of a tavern keeper—Illinois river—passage down it in a steamboat—narrow lakes—high bluffs—Pekin—Beardstown—Naples—arrival at upper Alton. |
| [74] |
| [CHAPTER IX.] |
| General description of the state of Illinois—streams skirted with timber—more than half prairie—a level State—generally rich soil—American bottom—military bounty lands—beautiful region of Sangamon river—the best tracts of land in the State—more good land than any other State—cause of the existence of prairies—country once inhabited by a civilized race anterior to the Indians—its rivers, Kankakee, Oplane, Du Page, Fox, Illinois, Rock, Spoon, Kaskaskia, Wabash, &c.—lead mines—productions—milk-sickness—chief towns—schools, &c. |
| [79] |
| [CHAPTER X.] |
| Burning of the prairies—backwoodsmen—society—meeting-houses and school-houses—what kind of goods an emigrant ought to take with him—cheapness of provisions—manner of commencing a settlement—ploughing the prairies—guarding the improvements against the prairie fires—junction of the Missouri with the Mississippi—arrival at St. Louis—a description of the town—steam ferry boat. |
| [92] |
| [CHAPTER XI.] |
| General description of the state of Missouri—south part generally barren, or wet and unhealthy—soil not muddy—prairie on the Mississippi—banks of the Missouri—large prairies destitute of wood and water—productions—prairie blossoms—wild animals, snakes, &c.—dryness and purity of the atmosphere—diseases—mildness of the winter—lead mines and minerals—chief towns. |
| [99] |
| [CHAPTER XII.] |
| Voyage down the Mississippi in a steamboat—high bluffs—screw auger grist mills—shot towers—curiosities—dangers of the Mississippi navigation—narrow escape—run aground on a sand bar—mouth of the Ohio—cargo of the boat—amusements on board—history of one of the ladies—"Queen of the Nile"—description of the steamboat—price of passage—wooding the boat—ludicrous fracas on board—noise of the boats, &c.—peculiarities of expression of the western people—names of money. |
| [107] |
| [CHAPTER XIII.] |
| Independent frankness of the western people—eastern people—towns on the river—great earthquake at New Madrid—bluffs on the river—woodcutters—serpentine course of the Mississippi—negro slaves on board—one died of the cholera—benefit of steamboat navigation—flat boats still in use. |
| [119] |
| [CHAPTER XIV.] |
| Arrival at Natchez—description of the city—starts for Texas with another traveller—cotton plantations—description of the cotton plant—passage through the great Mississippi swamp—cypress knees, water and mud—Tensaw river—overtaken by night in the swamp—gloomy situation—lake Lovelace—planter's house on Indian mound—mildness of the weather—good accommodations—travelling in a right spirit—anecdote of a testy traveller. |
| [125] |
| [CHAPTER XV.] |
| Outlet of the lake—Washita river—Harrisonburg—pine woods—description of a planter—Red River rightly named—changes at its mouth—arrival at Alexandria and description of the place—race-course and horses—death of a gambler—fruit trees and vegetables—moschetoes. |
| [134] |
| [CHAPTER XVI.] |
| Bayou Rapide—fine cotton plantations—stream running in opposite directions—accompanied by another traveller—pine woods—planter's house—price of meals, &c.—Spanish moss—bottom land covered with dense forest—pine woods—the widow's house—manner of lodging travellers—inquisitiveness of the people—emigrants to Texas—Sabine river. |
| [139] |
| [CHAPTER XVII.] |
| Arrival in Texas—oak openings and prairies—plantations of corn and cotton—St. Augustine—arrival at Nacogdoches—its grotesque appearance—Indian trade in deer pelts—Galveston bay and Texas land company—four leagues of land for a dog—pine woods—Indian mounds—mounds in Ohio, Missouri and Illinois—Monastery near a mound—their origin and use—Neches river—new made bridge. |
| [149] |
| [CHAPTER XVIII.] |
| Leave the pine woods—wet prairie—Trinity river—planter's house—death of an emigrant's wife—perplexities of emigration—an emigrant lost his money—breach of trust in a hired man—beautiful prairies—muddy streams—red cedar—petrified wood—mode of grinding corn—living from hand to mouth—beautiful prospect—Indians on horseback—massacre of twenty Polanders—muddy swamp—Brazos river—Spanish trader—Indians more friendly to Americans than Spaniards—prairie country—Cole's settlement—live oak—Colorado river. |
| [160] |
| [CHAPTER XIX.] |
| General View of Texas—herds of buffalo and wild horses—mustangs, manner of catching—seacoast flat—Galveston bay and Texas land company—burning of the prairies—fine grazing country—wildgame—deer-hunting—shooting deer in the night—productions of the soil—list of forest trees—Spanish moss—health of the country and climate. |
| [169] |
| [CHAPTER XX.] |
| Rivers of Texas—seacoast—mill-seats—land grants—number of inhabitants—exports—inhabitants indolent—cheapness of land and manner of obtaining it—reptiles and animals—panther—flies—moschetoes—Indian tribes—water too warm. |
| [182] |
| [CHAPTER XXI.] |
| Towns in Texas—Spanish villages—Mexican garrisons—Texas—mechanics—Texas and Cohahuila united—courts of law—professional men—unlawful punishments—salt lake—negroes indented—boundaries of Texas—general appearance of the country—rainy season—roads and carriages—emigration. |
| [196] |
| [CHAPTER XXII.] |
| Emigrants unhappy—Mexican republic unsettled—Col. Austin—imprisonment—Texians slandered—healthy portions of the country—what an emigrant ought to take with him—price of stock—mail routes—currency—best spot in Texas—emigrant puzzled—how property may be acquired. |
| [204] |
| [CHAPTER XXIII.] |
| Arrival at San Felipe—billiard room—gambler shot—bloody affray about a lady—ten men to one woman in the country—arrival at Columbia and Bell's landing—started down river in a canoe—Brazoria—went on board a vessel—hunting excursion of the mate—Brazos river—Velasco—sandy beach. |
| [213] |
| [CHAPTER XXIV.] |
| Passed over the bar and left Texas—reasons for emigrating in the fall—means for going to Texas—speculation—passengers on board—sea sickness—vessel run aground—Mississippi steam tow-boats—sugar plantations and negroes—making sugar. |
| [222] |
| [CHAPTER XXV.] |
| City of New-Orleans—vessels in port—muddy streets and filthy gutters—houses of dissipation—character of the inhabitants—resort of knaves and vagabonds—ship yards—canal and railroad—no wharves. |
| [228] |
| [CHAPTER XXVI.] |
| Start down the river—nunnery—battle-ground—negro slavery—the situation of the negroes—general views on the subject. |
| [235] |
| [CHAPTER XXVII.] |
| General description of the Mississippi river—its source—its tributaries—Wisconsin and Illinois—Missouri, its source and tributaries—gates of the Rocky mountains—Ohio river, its general character and appearance—White, Arkansas and Red rivers—outlets of the Mississippi—falls of St. Anthony—Dacota Indian woman—river banks—width of the stream and depth of water—Mississippi swamp—serpentine course—color of the waters—the most interesting river in the world. |
| [246] |
| [CHAPTER XXVIII.] |
| Sail for Boston—sea voyage disagreeable to a landsman—change of scenery—Chatham, Boston—arrival at home. |
| [262] |
| [CHAPTER XXIX.] |
| Retrospective Glance at the Great Mississippi Valley—character, appearance and natural productions—conclusion. |
| [266] |
| [APPENDIX.] |
| Michigan, [285]—population, [285]—face of the country, [286]—Wayne county, [292]—Monroe county, [294]—Washtenaw county, [295]—Macomb county, [297]—Oakland county, [299]—St. Clair county, [301]—St. Joseph county, [302]—Cass county, [304]—Berrien county, [306]—Lapeer and Saginaw counties, [308]—Shiawassee county, [309]—Calhoun county, [309]—Kalamazoo county, [310]—Branch and Hillsdale counties, [311]—Lenawee county, [312]—Barry, Eaton and Ingham counties on grand river. |
| [312] |
| [TEXIAN REVOLUTION.] |
| [First Campaign.] |
| Introductory remarks, [323]—causes of the war, [324]—parallel case, [326]—Col. Austin released and sent to Texas, [329]—capture of the armed schooner Correo, [330]—first battle on land at Gonzales, [331]—capture of Goliad, [333]—Col. Milam, [335]—army marched towards San Antonio, [339]—San Antonio besieged, [340]—Commissioners to the United States appointed, [340]—San Antonio stormed and taken, [341]—the brave Col. Milam killed, and sketch of his life, [342]. Gen. Mexia's expedition, [345]—28 men shot at Tampico, [347]—volunteers from the United States—Col. Stanley's regiment, [348]—General Council convened, and citizens of Goliad make a declaration of independence, [349]—state of affairs in Mexico, decree of Santa Anna, [351]—embargo laid, [352]—Indians called to aid Santa Anna, [353]—flag of Texas, [354]—post-offices and mail routes, [354]—Mexicans preparing for another campaign, [355]—situation of Texas, [356]. |
| [Second Campaign.] |
| The Mexican army arrive in Texas, commanded by Santa Anna in person, [358]—Situation of San Antonio, [359]—capture and massacre of Col. Johnson's party, [360]—second attack upon the fort, [361]—the fort attacked at midnight, taken and the garrison all slain, [362]—Gen. Cos, [365]—Declaration of Independence, [366]—officers of the government, [368]—Goliad abandoned, and Col. Fanning party attacked in the prairie, [369]—Col. Fanning surrenders, and his party massacred, [370]. Gen. Houston retreats to the Brazos, [371]—the inhabitants become alarmed and flee, [371]—massacre at Copano, [372]—skirmish at sea, [372]—Gen. Gaines marches to the frontier of Texas, [372]—Indians on the western prairies, [373]—CAPTURE OF SANTA ANNA, [375]—the Independence of Texas certain, [378]—Texian Independence agitated in U.S. Congress, [378]—Table of the Chief Towns in Texas and distances from San Felipe, [380]. |
The public approbation of this work, so fully manifested by a rapid and entire sale of the first edition, has induced the publishers to issue another, much enlarged and improved edition. The broad expanse of country, stretching from the Alleghany mountains to the Pacific ocean, much of which is unsurveyed, unsettled and unexplored, is an interesting portion of the United States. It is believed, there are two hundred million acres of public lands yet unsurveyed in Wisconsin Territory—fifty millions in Michigan—and 800 millions in Missouri, Mississippi, and Arkansas. To all these, are to be added the illimitable tracts, hardly yet trodden by the foot of civilized man, which lie in the unpeopled immensity, on both sides of the rocky mountains. The value of this vast domain, at the minimum government price, defies all calculation. What a source of revenue for the present and the future!