CONTENTS.

PAGE
[CHAPTER 1.]
[Leave Beyrout.—Camp afloat.—Rhodes.—The shores of theMediterranean suitable for the cultivation of the arts.—AMoslem of the new school.—American Presbyterianclergyman.—A Mexican senator.—A sermon for sailors.—Smyrna.—Buyukdéré.—SirStratford Canning.—Embarkfor Bulgaria.] [1]
[CHAPTER II.]
[Varna.—Contrast of Northern and Southern provinces ofTurkey.—Roustchouk.—Conversation with Deftendar.—TheDanube.—A Bulgarian interior.—A dandy of theLower Danube.—Depart for Widdin.] [15]
[CHAPTER III.]
[River steaming.—Arrival at Widdin.—Jew.—Comfortlesskhan.—Wretched appearance of Widdin.—Hussein Pasha.—M.Petronievitch.—Steam balloon.] [29]
[CHAPTER IV.]
[Leave Widdin.—The Timok.—Enter Servia.—Brza Palanka.—TheIron Gates.—Old and New Orsova.—WallachianMatron.—Semlin.—A conversation on language.] [36]
[CHAPTER V.]
[Description of Belgrade.—Fortifications.—Street and streetpopulation.—Cathedral.—Large square.—Coffee-house.—Desertedvilla.—Baths.] [45]
[CHAPTER VI.]
[Europeanization of Belgrade.—Lighting and paving.—Interiorof the fortress.—Turkish Pasha.—Turkish quarter.—Turkishpopulation.—Panorama of Belgrade.—Dinnerparty given by the prince.] [53]
[CHAPTER VII.]
[Return to Servia.—The Danube.—Semlin.—Wucics andPetronievitch.—Cathedral solemnity.—Subscription ball.] [65]
[CHAPTER VIII.]
[Holman, the blind traveller.—Milutinovich, the poet.—Bulgarianlegend.—Tableau de genre.—Departure for the interior.] [74]
[CHAPTER IX.]
[Journey to Shabatz.—Resemblance of manners to those ofthe middle ages.—Palesh.—A Servian bride.—Blind minstrel.—Gipsies.—Macadamizedroads.] [83]
[CHAPTER X.]
[Shabatz.—A provincial chancery.—Servian collector.—Descriptionof his house.—Country barber.—Turkish quarter.—Self-taughtpriest.—A provincial dinner.—Native soirée.] [93]
[CHAPTER XI.]
[Kaimak.—History of a renegade.—A bishop's house.—Progressof education.—Portrait of Milosh.—Bosnia and theBosnians.—Moslem fanaticism.—Death of the collector.] [108]
[CHAPTER XII.]
[The banat of Matchva.—Losnitza.—Feuds on the frontier.—Enterthe back-woods.—Convent of Tronosha.—Greekfestival.—Congregation of peasantry.—Rustic finery.] [125]
[CHAPTER XIII.]
[Romantic sylvan scenery.—Patriarchal simplicity of manners.—Krupena.—Sokol.—Itsextraordinary position.—Wretched town.—Alpine scenery.—Cool reception.—Valleyof the Rogatschitza.] [140]
[CHAPTER XIV.]
[The Drina.—Liubovia.—Quarantine station.—Derlatcha.—AServian beauty.—A lunatic priest.—Sorry quarters.—Murderby brigands.] [152]
[CHAPTER XV.]
[Arrival at Ushitza.—Wretched street.—Excellent khan.—Turkishvayvode.—A Persian dervish.—Relations ofMoslems and Christians.—Visit the castle.—Bird's eyeview.] [162]
[CHAPTER XVI.]
[Poshega.—The river Morava.—Arrival at Csatsak.—AViennese doctor.—Project to ascend the Kopaunik.—Visitthe bishop.—Ancient cathedral church.—Greek mass.—Karanovatz.—Emigrantpriest.—Albanian disorders.—Saltmines.] [174]
[CHAPTER XVII.]
[Coronation church of the ancient kings of Servia.—Enterthe Highlands.—Valley of the Ybar.—First view of theHigh Balkan.—Convent of Studenitza.—Byzantine Architecture.—Phlegmaticmonk.—Servian frontier.—Newquarantine.—Russian major.] [186]
[CHAPTER XVIII.]
[Cross the Bosniac frontier.—Gipsy encampment.—Novibazardescribed.—Rough reception.—Precipitate departure.—Fanaticism.] [197]
[CHAPTER XIX.]
[Ascent of the Kopaunik.—Grand prospect.—Descent ofthe Kopaunik.—Bruss.—Involuntary bigamy.—Conversationon the Servian character.—Krushevatz.—Relics ofmonarchy.] [207]
[CHAPTER XX.]
[Formation of the Servian monarchy.—Contest between theLatin and Greek Churches.—Stephen Dushan.—A greatwarrior.—Results of his victories.—Kucs Lasar.—Invasionof Amurath.—Battle of Kossovo.—Death of Lasarand Amurath.—Fall of the Servian monarchy.—Generalobservations.] [219]
[CHAPTER XXI.]
[A battue missed.—Proceed to Alexinatz.—Foreign-Officecourier.—Bulgarian frontier.—Gipsy Suregee.—Tiupria.—Newbridge and macadamized roads.] [229]
[CHAPTER XXII.]
[Visit to Ravanitza.—Jovial party.—Servian and Austrianjurisdiction.—Convent described.—Eagles reversed.—Bulgarianfestivities.] [240]
[CHAPTER XXIII.]
[Manasia.—Has preserved its middle-age character.—RobinsonCrusoe.—Wonderful echo.—Kindness of the people.—Svilainitza.—Posharevatz.—Babygiantess.] [246]
[CHAPTER XXIV.]
[Rich soil.—Mysterious waters.—Treaty of Passarovitz.—Thecastle of Semendria.—Relics of the antique.—The Brankovitchfamily.—Panesova.—Morrison's pills.] [255]
[CHAPTER XXV.]
[Personal appearance of the Servians.—Their moral character.—Peculiarityof manners.—Christmas festivities.—Easter.—TheDodola.] [264]
[CHAPTER XXVI.]
[Town life.—The public offices.—Manners half-oriental half-European.—Merchantsand tradesmen.—Turkish population.—Porters.—Barbers.—Cafés.—Publicwriter.] [272]
[CHAPTER XXVII.]
[Poetry.—Journalism.—The fine arts.—The Lyceum.—Mineralogicalcabinet.—Museum.—Servian Education.] [279]
[CHAPTER XXVIII.]
[Preparations for departure.—Impressions of the East.—PrinceAlexander.—The palace.—Kara Georg.] [285]
[CHAPTER XXIX.]
[A memoir of Kara Georg.] [290]
[CHAPTER XXX.]
[Milosh Obrenovitch.] [300]
[CHAPTER XXXI.]
[The prince.—The government.—The senate.—The ministerfor foreign affairs.—The minister of the interior.—Courtsof justice.—Finances.] [309]
[CHAPTER XXXII.]
[Agriculture and commerce.] [320]
[CHAPTER XXXIII.]
[The foreign agents.] [325]
[CHAPTER XXXIV.]
[VIENNA IN 1844.]
[Improvements in Vienna.—Palladian style.—Music.—Theatres.—SirRobert Gordon.—Prince Metternich.—Armenball.—Dancing.—Strauss.—Austrian policy.] [330]
[CHAPTER XXXV.]
[Concluding observations on Austria and her prospects.] [341]

SERVIA.


CHAPTER I.

Leave Beyrout.—Camp afloat.—Rhodes.—The shores of the Mediterranean suitable for the cultivation of the arts.—A Moslem of the new school.—American Presbyterian clergyman.—A Mexican senator.—A sermon for sailors.—Smyrna.—Buyukdéré.—Sir Stratford Canning.—Embark for Bulgaria.

I have been four years in the East, and feel that I have had quite enough of it for the present. Notwithstanding the azure skies, bubbling fountains, Mosaic pavements, and fragrant narghilés, I begin to feel symptoms of ennui, and a thirst for European life, sharp air, and a good appetite, a blazing fire, well-lighted rooms, female society, good music, and the piquant vaudevilles of my ancient friends, Scribe, Bayard, and Melesville.

At length I stand on the pier of Beyrout, while my luggage is being embarked for the Austrian steamer lying in the roads, which, in the Levantine slang, has lighted her chibouque, and is polluting yon white promontory, clear cut in the azure horizon, with a thick black cloud of Wallsend.