But though Brandy is extracted from Wine, Experience tells us, that there is a great Difference in Grapes from which the Wine is made. Every Soil, every Climate, every kind of Grapes varies with regard to the Quantity and Quality of Spirits extracted from them. There are some Grapes which are only fit for eating; others for drying; as those of Damascus, Corinth, Provence, and Avignon; but not fit to make Wine.
Some Wines very proper for Distillation, others much less so. The Wines of Languedoc and Provence afford a great deal of Brandy by Distillation, when the Operation is made in their full Strength: The Orleans Wines, and those of Blois afford yet more; but the best are those of the Territories of Cogniac and of Andaye, which are however in the Number of those the least drank in France. Whereas those of Burgundy and of Champaign, though of a very fine Flavour, are improper, because they yield but very little in Distillation.
It must also be farther observed, that all the Wines for Distillation, as those of Spain, the Canaries, of Alicant, of Cyprus, of St. Perés, of Toquet, of Grave, of Hungary, and others of the same kind, yield very little Brandy by Distillation; and consequently would cost the Distiller considerably more than he could sell it for. What is drawn from them is indeed very good, always retaining the saccharine Quality, and rich Flavour of the Wine from whence it is drawn; but as it grows old, this Flavour often grows aromatic, and is not agreeable to all Palates.
Hence we see, that Brandies always differ, according as they are extracted from different Species of Grapes. Nor would there be so great a Similarity as there is between the different kinds of French Brandies, were the strongest Wines used for this Purpose: But this is rarely the Case, the weakest and lowest-flavoured Wines only are distilled for their Spirit, or such as prove absolutely unfit for any other Use.
A large Quantity of Brandies is distilled in France during the Time of the Vintage; for all those poor Grapes that prove unfit for Wine, are usually first gathered, pressed, their Juice fermented, and directly distilled. This rids their Hands of their poor Wines at once, and leaves their Casks empty for the Reception of better. It is a general Rule with them not to distil any Wine, that will fetch any Price as Wine; for, in this State, the Profits upon them are vastly greater than when reduced to Brandies. This large Stock of small Wines, with which they are almost over-run in France, sufficiently accounts for their making such vast Quantities of Brandy in France, more than other Countries, which lie in warmer Climates, and are much better adapted to the Production of Grapes.
Nor is this the only Fund of their Brandies; for all the Wine that turns eager, is also condemned to the Still; and, in short, all that they can neither export, nor consume at home, which amounts to a large Quantity; since much of the Wine, laid in for their Family Provision, is so poor, as not to keep during the Time in spending.
Hence many of our English Spirits, with proper Management, are convertible into Brandies, that shall hardly be distinguished from the foreign in many Respects, provided this Operation be neatly performed. And, in particular, how far a Cyder Spirit, and a Crab Spirit, may, even from the first Extraction, be made to resemble the fine and thin Brandies of France, we would recommend to those Distillers, whose Skill and Curiosity prompts them to Undertakings condemned by those who only work mechanically, and scorn to deviate from the beaten Tract, tho’ they have the fairest Prospect of acquiring Profit to themselves, and a lasting Emolument to their Country.
CHAP. XIX.
Of the Distillation of Rum.
Rum differs from what we simply call Sugar Spirit, as it contains more of the natural Flavour, or essential Oil of the Sugar Cane; a great deal of raw Juice, and even Parts of the Cane itself being often fermented in the Liquor, or Solution, of which the Rum is prepared.
Hence we see from whence Rum derives its Flavour; namely, from the Cane itself. Some, indeed, are of Opinion, that the unctuous or oily Flavour of the Rum proceeds from the large Quantity of Fat used in boiling the Sugar. This Fat, indeed, if coarse, will give a stinking Flavour to the Spirit in our Distillations of the Sugar Liquor, or Wash, from our refining Sugar-houses; but this is nothing like the Flavour of the Rum; which, as we have already observed, is the Effect of the natural Flavour of the Cane.