These Fruits should be gathered in the Height of their respective Seasons and the largest and most beautiful of them chosen for the purpose.
Thus with regard to the Heart Cherry, it should be large, fleshy, and thorough but not over ripe; for then a Part of its Juice will be evaporated on the Tree: Care must be also taken, that its Colour be not decayed; but clear and almost transparent, and well tasted.
The black Cherry, or as it is often called, the black Arvon, must be extremely ripe, because it is used to colour the Ratafia when that of the other fails. The Criterion of judging when it is thoroughly ripe is its Blackness; for, when in Perfection, it is perfectly black. It should also be remembered that this Fruit is better and more profitable in Proportion to its Sweetness; as the Flavour of the Ratafia will be rendered more agreeable, and a less Quantity of Sugar necessary.
As the Gooseberry is an acid Fruit, it must be chosen as ripe as possible. The Fruit large, and the Skin and Husk so transparent as to see the Seeds through it. The Gooseberry should be used immediately after its being gathered; for it is very liable to ferment, which will inevitably spoil the Ratafia. Gooseberries are chiefly used to render the Ratafia dry or sharp, and consequently less soft; and therefore their Quantity should always be proportioned to that Intention.
The Merry to be good should be small, black, the Skin transparent, full of Liquor of deep black Purple Colour. The greatest Care should be taken, that it be fresh gathered, and not rotten. It corrects the acid Juices of the other Fruits by its Sweetness, softens the Composition; and is of great Service in colouring the Ratafia.
The Mulberry is of the greatest Service in colouring the Ratafia. It should be chosen large, and fully ripe, at which time it is of a black Purple Colour. Its Taste also greatly contributes to render the Ratafia of a pleasant and agreeable Flavour.
The Strawberry greatly contributes to increase the rich Flavour of the Ratafia; but it must be chosen ripe, and large; fresh gathered and not bruised. Another Caution necessary to this Fruit is, that they are gathered in dry warm Weather; for if gathered in rainy Weather they will want that fine Taste, for which they are so greatly valued.
The Rasberry is also added to augment the Richness of the Liquor, to which its elegant perfumy Taste greatly contributes; by its agreeable Acidity it renders the Flavour more brisk and agreeable. It must be fresh gathered, full ripe, and free from Spots and Mouldness, which this Fruit is particularly subject to.
Having thus concisely enumerated the Qualities requisite in the several Fruits, to render the Ratafia of a rich and elegant Flavour, we shall proceed to give the best Methods for making Ratafia from them.