A Comprehensive History of Norwich

by A. D. Bayne

The twelfth century is a period in which Norwich began to be particularly mentioned for its trade arising from manufactures. It is also a period when a very valuable source of information is opened by the monumental effigies of the dead, sculptured in their habits as they lived. The effigies on brass are numerous in Norwich and Norfolk churches, and indicate progress in useful arts. Mr. Stothard is a great authority on the monumental effigies of Great Britain, and he presents the coronation robes of the kings, and the costumes of the nobles with splendid decorations.

The Dutch and the Flemings soon came over the sea, located themselves in the city and in different parts of the eastern counties, and introduced various manufactures. William of Malmesbury states that in the reign of the Conqueror’s youngest son, Henry I., a great inundation in the low countries drove many more of the Flemings to seek refuge in England; and Blomefield, in his History of Norfolk, says that several of them settled at Worstead in Norfolk, and thus early introduced the art of stuff weaving there; which, as is natural to suppose, soon began to be extensively adopted in Norwich. Gervase, of Tilbury, writing of the Flemings says,—

“The art of weaving seemed to be a peculiar gift bestowed upon them by nature; yet the new comers were not always well received by the native population, and had to be protected by laws made in their favour. Indeed, the natives of Norwich, in every period, have been hostile to foreigners, or to any sort of interference with their peculiar branch of industry.”

In the next reign, that of Henry II., “Guilds” of weavers were multiplied, and had their charters of privilege in London, York, Winchester, and Norwich; and a system of protection, originating with manufacturers, prevailed all over the country. During the next reign, that of Stephen, more Flemish weavers came over; and these successive emigrations were a real blessing to the land. England had hitherto not been a manufacturing country till the arrival of the Flemings, who introduced the preparation and weaving of wool, so that, in process of time, not only the home market was abundantly supplied with woollen cloth, but a large surplus was made for exportation. The Flemings were kinsmen of the Danes, and all of them were of the Anglo-Saxon race, and were distinguished for that probity in their dealings which afterwards became the characteristic of British merchants.

During the reign of Richard Cœur de Lion, it is supposed that though the trade of the kingdom did not increase, yet some of the artisan soldiers who returned from the crusades brought back a knowledge of the eastern method of weaving. At that time the useful arts flourished in the east. The improvements introduced here were, however, of little worth, owing to the troubles of the reign of King John, and the equally disturbed reign of his son Henry III. Even the wise and resolute king, Edward I., did not fully succeed in restoring English trade to its former prosperity. Yet it is clear that this city had been all along prospering, for in the reign of Edward II., repeated mention is made of its thrift. That monarch granted a patent to John Peacock for measuring every piece of worsted made in the city or county; but this, being found to check the trade, was soon recalled. In the reign of Edward I. the people of Norwich, and of England generally, began to adopt the whimsical fashions of their neighbours on the continent. Horned head-dresses of frightful appearance were worn by the ladies, and tight-laced stays. Gauze, which is thought to have derived its name from Gaza, where it was first made, and brunetta or burnetta, with several other fine and delicate stuffs, are mentioned in this period. Gauzes were afterwards produced in large quantities in Norwich. Tartan was a fine woollen cloth, which was also much used for ladies’ robes, and was generally of a scarlet dye.

In the thirteenth century the materials for dress became more numerous, and this period is more remarkable for the splendour of costume than for change of form. Matthew Paris, monk of St. Albany, a contemporary historian, describes the pageantry of the day, and expresses disgust rather than pleasure at the excessive foppery of the times. He states that the nobility who attended at the marriage of the daughter of Henry III. to Alexander king of Scotland, were attired in vestments of silk, commonly called comtises, on the day when the ceremony was performed, but on the following day they were laid aside.

In the reign of Edward III. other foreign clothiers came to England, and many of them settled in the eastern parts of Essex. In 1353, this monarch prohibited his subjects from wearing any cloth but such as was made in this kingdom; and he also forbade the exportation of wool. Both in this reign and in that of Richard II., repeated mention occurs in the oath book and court rolls of wool-combers, card makers, clothiers, weavers, fullers, &c. During the reign of Elizabeth a new impulse was given to the trade by the emigration of Protestants and others from the low countries, and from France, who introduced important branches of industry. Mr. James, in his History of the Worsted Manufacture in England, says, that king Edward III. so far extended and improved that trade, that from his reign may be dated a new era in its history. This monarch could not, with all his sagacity, and the earnest desire he ever evinced for the welfare and prosperity of his subjects, remain long unmindful of the great profit and advantage of working up the English wool for domestic consumption or export, instead of exporting the material in a raw state. When, therefore, he espoused Phillippa, the daughter of the Earl of Hainault, whose subjects were excellent cloth makers, the close connection which the marriage occasioned between the two countries, and probably in part some suggestions of the queen, induced the king, in 1331, to invite hither a large number of his countrymen, skilful in the art of weaving woollen and worsted. These Flemish weavers settled, by the directions of the king, and under his special protection, in various parts of the country, where the wool grown in the district was suitable for the particular kind of cloth made by these artizans. The worsted weavers were located in Norfolk and Suffolk, having Norwich for their chief seat or mart. Blomefield, in his history, says,—

“Under the reign of Edward III., Norwich became the most flourishing city of all England by means of its great trade in worsted, fustian, friezes, and other woollen manufactures, for now the English wool, being manufactured by English hands, incredible profit accrued to the people by its passing through and employing so many, every one having a fleece, sorters, combers, card spinners, &c.”

Alluding to the condition of this trade at the same period, old Fuller, in his Church History, says,—

“The intercourse being large betwixt the English and the Netherlands, (which having increased since King Edward married the daughter) unsuspected emissaries were employed by our king with those countries, who brought them into familiarity with such Dutchmen as were absolute masters of their trade, (but not masters themselves) as either journeymen or apprentices. These bemoaned the slavishness of their poor servants, whom their masters used rather like heathen than christians; yea, rather, like horses than men; early up and late to bed, and all day hard work, and harder fare, (a few herrings and mouldy cheese,) and all to enrich the churls their masters, without any profit unto themselves. But, oh, how happy should they be if they would but come over to England! bringing their mystery with them, which would provide their welcome in all places. Here they should feed on fat beef and mutton till nothing but their fulness should stint their stomach; yea, they should feed on the labour of their own hands, enjoying a proportionable portion of their gains for themselves. Persuaded with the promises, many Dutch servants leave their masters and come over to England.”