Cuttling.—Plaiting cloth in folds; used in the same sense as lapping and folding, as opposed to rolling into bolts.
Damask.—The name Damask is technically applied to certain classes of fabrics richly decorated with figures of foliage, fruits, scrolls, and other ornamental patterns, usually of a large and elaborate character. The weaves usually employed are twills (mostly satin twills), and the figures in the fabric are made by alternately exchanging warp for weft surface or vice versa. The materials employed vary according to the purpose to which the fabrics are to be applied. In the manufacture of upholstery cloth for hangings and furniture covering, silk or worsted is used; while for table covers, towels, napkins, etc., linen is generally employed, except in the cheapest grades, when cotton is the material used. Damask was originally applied only to silken fabrics whose designs were very elaborately woven in colours and often with either gold or silver threads. Although in the majority of Damask fabrics nothing but satin twill weaves are employed (principally five and eight shaft), very good effects are obtained by combining other weaves with satin twills. Where Damasks are made all of one colour, as in white linen table covers, the effect is given by the threads lying at right angles to each other; the light falling upon them brings the pattern in bold relief and makes it easily visible.
Damassé.—Applied to fabrics having a rich woven design. Similar to Damask.
Delaine.—A term applied to plain-woven materials made "of wool." The term probably originated in France and was applied there to all plain-woven fabrics of light weight made of wool. As used at present, the term may be combined with another name, and then purely designates the nature of the material used in the manufacture of the fabric, such as in Muslin Delaine.
Denim.—A stout cotton warp-faced twill cloth, generally woven as a four-end twill. The warp is dyed either blue or brown before weaving, whilst the weft is grey; they are both of coarse counts. Denim, being a warp-faced material, has the warp on the surface; and as the warp is made of coloured yarns, the cloth when woven shows a solid coloured surface. The back of the fabric shows the bulk of the weft threads, and these, being in the grey, give the back of the cloth a distinctive lighter colour than the face of the cloth. Like all warp-faced twill weave, the back of the cloth shows a plain-weave effect. Denims have generally a white edging forming the selvedge; they range from medium to heavy weight and are largely used in the manufacture of workmen's overalls.
Derby Rib.—Applied to hosiery having six ribs on the face alternating with three on the back.
Diagonal.—This name is applied to plain or figured twills of bold character and originates in the twill effect, which, in relation to the length of the fabric, runs in a diagonal direction. This twill effect is produced by raising warp threads in groups in a progressive order, the filling thus making them stand out in ridges or heavy twill.
Diaper.—This term as applied to fabrics is used to describe two distinct styles, the first of which consists of a small diamond weave, while the second and true Diaper has rectangular figures or dice interwoven on the Damask principle. In cotton fabrics it is confined to diced or diamond reversible patterns on a small scale. The weave is produced by the interchanging of warp and weft. In linen fabrics, also, it is used to produce diced, diamond, and bird's-eye patterns, and also small reversible Damask patterns. In some districts the names Dorneck and Diced are used instead of Diaper.