Piece Goods Manual / Fabrics described; textile, knit goods, weaving terms, etc., explained; with notes on the classification of samples.

by A. E. Blanco

Dyed Drills.—A heavy twill-woven all-cotton fabric, the weave of which is described under "Drills," which has been dyed in the piece, i.e., impregnated with a Uniform colour over its whole surface.

Dyed Figured Cottons.—Under this heading may be grouped all such fabrics which (a) are made of all cotton, (b) are figured by having any design, large or small, woven or embossed, on their surface, (c) are dyed in any colour, and (d) are not otherwise enumerated. The fabrics coming under this heading include both fabrics which have not been subjected to any special process of finishing and those which have been so treated, irrespective of the style of finish. The ribs or reps of such fabrics, which are known as "Reps" or "Ribs," do not in themselves constitute figures. Printing produces a style of ornamentation which does not rightly belong to this class of goods, in which it must only be the result of weaving or embossing.

Dyed Figured Cotton Italians.—This name is used to designate an all-cotton fabric having the characteristic even, close, smooth surface of the plain Italian Cloth, but which, in addition, has had its surface ornamented with any figures, floral or geometrical effects, etc., this figuring having been produced either by means of extra threads, or by combining the warp and weft threads, or by having the pattern or outline of the design impressed, stamped, or embossed in the fabric, which, as it is a "dyed" fabric, has been coloured after leaving the loom.

Dyed Figured Cotton Lastings.—This fabric is essentially an all-cotton twill or kindred weave material firmly woven from hard-twisted yarn, which has been figured or ornamented in the weaving by the introduction of a small floral or geometrical design. The fabric, being a "dyed fabric," is piece-dyed. Like Plain Lastings, this material enters largely into the manufacture of uppers for boots and shoes.

Dyed Figured Cotton Reps.—This name is used to designate an all-cotton material which is primarily a Rep fabric. It combines the prominent reps or ribs running transversely across the face of the cloth, which is the distinctive feature of a Plain Rep fabric, with certain small figures, floral or geometrical effects, etc., which are introduced for the purpose of ornamentation. This figuring may be produced either by means of extra threads on the surface of the cloth, by the mode of interlacing the warp and the weft threads on the surface of the cloth, or by having the pattern or outline of the design impressed or stamped in the fabric, which, as it is a dyed fabric, has been coloured after leaving the loom. This kind of material averages 32 inches in width and 32 yards in length per piece.

Dyed Figured Ribs.—This name is used to designate a fabric which is primarily a rib material having the characteristic rep or rib running from selvedge to selvedge, or, in some cases, lengthways of the fabric, but which, in addition, has had its surface ornamented with any figures, floral or geometrical designs. This ornamentation constitutes the figuring and is produced either by means of extra threads or by having the pattern or outline of the design impressed, stamped, or embossed in the fabric, which, as it is a dyed fabric, has been coloured after leaving the loom. A Dyed Figured Cotton Rib would be an all-cotton material with an average width of 32 inches and averaging 32 yards to the piece.

Dyed Fustians.—Fustians embrace two classes of finished goods, some of which are characterised in finishes by a nap raised on the fabric, such as Moleskins, Beaverteens, etc. The other class comprises cut pile fabrics, variously known in the trade by distinctive names, such as Velveteen and Corduroy. Fustians are essentially all-cotton fabrics. Dyed Fustians are piece-dyed fabrics and not woven from coloured yarns.

Dyed Imitation Turkey Reds.—The fabric of which this class of goods is an imitation is generally a twill-faced all-cotton cloth piece-dyed with a cochineal dye, which is fast to light and washing. The Dyed Imitation Turkey Red is similar in construction of fabric, but depends for its colouring upon a chemical or synthetic dye which, while it resembles cochineal, has not the same qualities of fastness.

Dyed Imitation Turkey Reds are piece-dyed fabrics averaging in width 32 inches and in length 25 yards per piece. Fabrics coming under this heading are invariably plain, i.e., unornamented either through weave combination, printing, or embossing.