Grosgrain.—A silk fabric having a small ribbed effect from selvedge to selvedge. When the rib runs lengthways the fabric is known as a Millerayes.
Habit Cloth (Woollen).—An all-wool cloth similar to Medium, Broad, and Russian Cloth. Average width, 54 to 74 inches. In the better grades it is a high-priced fabric generally used for riding habits. Met with in dark shades of green or else in black.
Habutai.—A plain-weave silk, of smooth and even texture, originally made in Japan on hand looms.
Hair-cord Muslin.—A plain-weave fabric having stripes or checks formed by coarse threads, which stand out in a clearly defined manner.
Hand Looms and Power Looms.—The difference between these two kinds of looms lies in the fact that in the former (hand loom) the weaving is the result of the loom being worked and controlled by hand and foot, whereas in the power loom, whether belt driven or driven by electric motor, the power transmitted to the loom works all the essential parts, which are:—
| 1. Warp beam. | 4. Reed or beater-in. |
| 2. Heddles. | 5. Cloth roll. |
| 3. Shuttle. |
When a power loom has been suitably tuned up, i.e., timed so that the various movements necessary for the forming of the "shed" and the passing of the shuttle and the beating-in occur in the right sequence and at a correct interval of time, the weaver (who, in the case of power looms, is oftener called the overlooker) only has to attend to the broken warp threads or replenishing of the weft shuttle. With a hand loom the weaver controls the heddles which form the shed, throws the shuttle carrying the weft thread through the shed, and as fast as each filling thread is interlaced with the warp beats it in close to the previous one by means of a reed which is pulled by hand towards, and recedes from, the cloth after each passage of the shuttle. This is done to make the cloth firm. The movement of the reed in the hand-power loom (or, more correctly, in the hand and foot power loom) being controlled by the weaver and not mechanically, accounts for irregularity in firmness of weave not found in fabrics woven on a power loom.
Handle.—This term is used either as a "wool term" in connexion with wool or as a general textile term in connexion with fabrics. As a wool term it refers or designates all the attributes which determine quality, i.e., softness, fineness, length, and elasticity—noticeable when wool is judged by the feel. Easier to define than to acquire, "handle" also enters into the judging of woven fabrics. It is then used to denote the hardness, harshness, softness, smoothness, etc., which similarly are factors of quality and which are often best appreciated by the sense of touch.
Harvard Shirting.—This style of Shirting is generally recognised by its broken twill effect, which may be combined with plain stripes, small diamond patterns, etc., woven from dyed yarns. The salient feature of Harvard Shirtings is the above effect in different colours. The ground weave is generally a two-and-two twill.