Leather Cloth.—This name is given to a cloth which is known in the Bradford district as a Melton. It is a union cloth woven from cotton warp and woollen weft having the warp threads running in pairs or, as it is called, in "sisters." Generally measuring from 50 to 56 inches in width and weighing from 20 to 24 ounces per yard, it is finished with a bright, smooth face. The system of interlacing of warp and weft is not apparent either on the face or back of the cloth. By pulling away one or two weft threads it is easy to see that the warp threads are of cotton and that they are in pairs. Leather cloth is free from any figuring and is generally dyed in dark colours.
Leno.—Where a fabric is woven with a combination of gauze weaving and a few plain picks it is said to be a Leno. It is a term now currently used to designate all classes of light fabrics into which the gauze weave (in which kind of weaving all the warp threads do not run parallel or at right angles to the weft but are more or less twisted round each other) is introduced in combination with any other kind of weave. Lenos may have either an "all-over effect" or "stripes." The introduction in Lenos of the gauze weave tends to strengthen a material which from its very nature can only be but light. Lenos may show, in addition to the "all-over effect," an extra weft figure or spot. Whilst all these would be known as Lenos, their more correct designation would be Figured Lenos, or Extra Weft Spot Figured Lenos. The term is now loosely used, and sometimes a "lace" stripe Muslin will be called a Leno. The crossing threads used in the true or "net" Lenos are often of two or three fold yarn. The common so-called lace curtains are Lenos. The common varieties of Lenos are extensively used for the purpose of mosquito nets.
Liberty.—A light-weight silk having a satin finish. A trade name applied to a satin-finish silk of light weight now generally applied to such silks, although not the original "Liberty."
Linen Yarn.—When the count of linen yarn is given, it is denoted by "leas." Each lea is a measure of 300 yards, and 10 leas = 1 hank and 20 hanks = 1 bundle. It will be seen that as the "counts" increase, the weight per bundle decreases.
Lingerie.—This comprehensive term embraces ladies' and children's undergarments, such as skirts, undershirts, etc., infant's long and short dresses, stockings, chemises, night-robes, drawers, corset covers, etc.
Lining.—A cloth usually made from cotton warp and cotton, alpaca, or Botany weft, according to the type of cloth required, generally woven with a sateen weave. Italian Cloth is a typical example of lining cloth. The name denotes a class of fabrics rather than a given fabric.
Lisle Thread.—Yarns made of long-staple cotton, somewhat tightly twisted and having a smooth surface produced by passing the yarn over gas jets.
Loading Worsted and Woollens.—When the natural weight of any fabric is artificially increased, it is subjected to a treatment called "filling," "loading," or "weighting." Wool fabrics, by reason of their great hygroscopic properties, are usually weighted by being impregnated with hygroscopic substances, such as magnesium chloride. Other agents employed for filling worsted and woollen goods are zinc chloride, dextrine, starch, and water glass (alkali silicate).
Zinc chloride is a most useful loading agent on account of it possessing great hygroscopic properties. When a wool fabric has passed through solutions containing this agent the chloride is absorbed and permanently retained in the form of moisture, and a slippery handle or feel is imparted.