Generally speaking, samples, unless accompanied by certain descriptive information, are of little value, and care should be taken to describe briefly any salient feature connected with the fabric. This information may concern either the trade-mark, the importer, the value, or the date when the sample was entered into the collection, and brief particulars of the shipment of which it is a sample. This kind of information is of material value where the sample concerns a class, style, or quality of fabric not hitherto met with. With a comparatively small amount of trouble it would be possible to get together very valuable collections of samples. And if the individual would but give a little time and thought to the question of textile samples, and but a tithe of the time devoted to any hobby he may have, he will be amply repaid by the added knowledge he will acquire. All samples should be of uniform size (7 inches by 4 inches will be found a very useful size) and should invariably be in duplicate—one to use in obtaining all particulars necessary for classification and the other for the actual sample collection. Weave structure, nature of yarns, etc., may be studied and tests for components made and recorded.
Nothing will give a better idea of relative values of fabrics than knowledge of components, style of weave, etc. This, of course, does not apply to extrinsic values, i.e., values due to fashion, exclusive designs, or proprietary articles. There is nothing to go by in such cases better than market values; but in the plainer staples knowledge of construction, finish, etc., means ability to classify fabrics and estimate their approximate relative values.
Provisions for an index to sample collection have been made at the end of this book, enabling the ready adoption of the system now advocated.
Sateens.—This material is a light-weight cotton fabric finished to imitate Silk Satin. In weaving Cotton Sateens the same style of weave is adopted as in weaving Silk Satin, the object aimed at being an even, close, smooth surface and one capable of reflecting light to the best advantage. In a "warp sateen" weave the warp only appears on the surface, the filling or weft threads being effectually and completely hidden by the warp threads. In passing over the filling the warps do not interweave at regular, but at irregular, intervals—thus they may pass over five, eight, ten, twelve, or sixteen, then under one and over eight more, and so on. Sateens average 30 inches wide and from 30 to 60 yards in length per piece.
Sateens are woven on the same principle as Italians. The common Sateen cloth is produced on a "five threads and picks" system. Sateens are woven either as "Warp Sateen" or "Weft Sateen"; the peculiarities of these weaves are given under those headings.
Satin.—A term applied to silk goods woven on the same principle as Sateens, either Warp Sateens or Weft Sateens. In weaving most silk fabrics the warp and weft, or filling, are made to intersect each other every alternate time (as in plain weaving) or every third or fourth time in regular order (as in ordinary or plain twill weaving). In weaving Satin the same style of weave is adopted as in weaving Cotton Sateens, the object aimed at being an even, close, smooth surface and one capable of reflecting light to the best advantage. In a warp-weave Satin the warp only appears on the surface, the filling or weft threads being effectually and completely hidden. In passing over the filling the warps do not interweave at regular intervals; thus, they may pass over five, eight, ten, twelve, or sixteen, then under one and over eight more, and so on. Common Satin is what is technically known as an eight-leaf twill, the order in which the filling thread rises being once in eight times. The filling in the better qualities of Satin is of silk, whilst in the lower grades of this fabric cotton is generally used for the filling. Rich Satins may be woven on almost any number from five to twenty leaf twills. Satin at the time of leaving the loom has a somewhat flossy and rough surface—this is removed by passing the fabric over heated metal cylinders, which destroy the minute fibrous ends and increase the brilliance of the silk. Black Satins are often woven with a selvedge which is of a different colour to the piece.
Satin Drill.—When a Drill is woven with a warp-faced sateen weave it is known as a Satin Drill, to distinguish it from a Drill woven with a twill weave, which is known as a Florentine Drill.