Turkish Towelling.—Essentially Terry Cloth woven as an all-cotton fabric having as a salient feature an uncut loop-pile surface. Sold by the linear yard for the making of bath robes, etc. Woven unbleached or with some coloured yarns for bordering effect and subsequently bleached, the coloured yarns used resisting bleaching. Otherwise woven in sizes suitable for cutting into lengths, which are then sold as Turkish Towels.
Tussore, or Tussah.—The wild silk from which Shantung and Pongee are made. Applied to these fabrics when heavily and coarsely woven.
Tweed.—Rough, unfinished fabric of soft, open, and flexible texture, woven on a plain weave from wool or cotton and wool, usually of yarn of two or more shades. Originally the product of the weavers on the banks of the River Tweed. The face of the cloth presents an unfinished appearance rather than a sharp and clearly defined pattern.
Twill Weave.—A twill weave is a weave that produces diagonal lines across the cloth. In this class of weave the filling threads pass over one and under two, or over one and under three, four, five, or six, or over two or three and under one, two, three, or four, or over four and under four, three, six, etc. Where there are the same number of warp and filling threads to the inch, twill lines will form an angle of 45 degrees; if the warp threads are closer together than the filling threads, the twilled lines produced will approach more the horizontal. Twill weaving permits the introduction of more material into the cloth than a plain weave and produces, therefore, a closer and heavier fabric. A twill effect in a material is also called a diagonal, from the direction it has in relation to the length of the cloth. This diagonal effect is continually produced by the warp and weft intersections traversing one thread and one pick further from their respective positions each time a pick of weft is inserted. Twill weaves may be divided into four common classes: (1) regular, (2) broken, (3) fancy, (4) figured.
Regular Twills.—A regular twill is referred to as a twill of so many "ends" or "shafts"; by this is meant a twill which contains a number of warp and weft threads which, added together, equal the number of "ends." Thus a five-end twill can either have (a) four warps and one weft, (b) three warps and two wefts, or (c) two warps and three wefts—this form of twill will be seen to be a reverse weave to (b).
Broken Twills.—A twill effect produces a twill line which, when the number of warp and weft threads are equal, is at an angle of 45 degrees. In a broken twill effect this line, which may be compared to the left-hand stroke of a letter V, is combined with another twill line running in an opposite direction and which is simply a turning or "reversing" of the threads in the regular twill weave. Broken twill effect enters largely into the weave design of Harvard Shirting.
Fancy Twills.—As the term indicates, fancy twills is a style of weave which, whilst always retaining the main features and essentials of a "regular" twill, has been made fancy by alternating the arrangements of the thread and thus producing "elongated twills," "corkscrew twills," or "combination twills." The description of fancy twills could only be attempted by the use of illustrations and pages of explanations.