2º. All fabrics woven with a plain, satin, or twill weave or a combination of these weaves from grey, white, or dyed yarns which subsequent to weaving have been mercerised or dyed in the piece.
3º. Generally all cotton fabrics woven so as to imitate foreign yarn-dyed fabrics, whether same are devoid of a raised finish or have been raised on either back or face of the cloth, irrespective of whether the yarn has or has not been mercerised prior to weaving and irrespective of whether the cloth has or has not been mercerised after leaving the loom.
The term "Native Cotton Cloth" (China) is applied to hand-loom fabrics other than Nankeen, unclassed native cotton cloths or fabrics that are specifically enumerated in the General Tariff of 1858 for the Trade of China. The name is given to a group of cloths which answer to the following description:—
1º. All hand-loom plain-weave fabrics which do not exceed 20 inches in width woven from ordinary grey or white single cotton yarn which have been piece-dyed after leaving the loom, but which have not been either mercerised or gassed.
2º. All hand-loom plain-weave fabrics which do not exceed 20 inches in width woven from ordinary grey or white single cotton yarn which have been either resist, discharge, or direct printed but which have not been either mercerised or gassed after leaving the loom.
Union Broadcloth.—This fabric, also known under the name of Poncho Cloth, is a plain-woven cotton warp and woollen weft fabric, woven in the unusual width of 74 inches and averaging in length of piece from 36 to 38 yards. The selvedge of this class of fabric is distinctive, showing a long unshorn hairy surface. The face of the cloth does not show the weave or yarn intersection points, as it has a typical Broadcloth finish, but these are distinctly to be seen on the back of the fabric. A Union Broadcloth of the above description, typical of that generally exported to China, averaged in value during the years 1904 to 1914 about 1s. 6d. per yard.
Union Cloth.—As the name implies, Union Cloths are woven with warp and weft of different fibres. They are also called "mixed cloths," and the union of the two different kinds of fibres may be arrived at by intermingling the wool and cotton fibres to form the warp or weft of a fabric or, as in most cases, each kind of fibre may be confined to separate threads, forming part or the whole of the warp or weft. Union Cloths are generally "cross-dyed," although they may also be "dyed in the grey." In the case of "cross-dyeing," the cotton warp is dyed the desired colour and interlaced with a wool weft, which is in a grey or undyed condition, and subsequently the weft only is dyed, this being possible as the affinity of cotton and wool are different. When light colours are desired in the fabric the cotton warp and wool weft are woven in a grey or undyed condition, and then both are dyed in the fabric: this method is styled "dyeing in the grey." In some cases the wool and cotton are treated separately, in others union dyes are employed.
The principal Union Cloths met with are: Brilliantines, Glacés, and Sicilians, plain-weave materials with cotton warp and mohair weft; Alpacas, plain or twill weave, cotton warp and alpaca weft; Lustres, plain or twill weave, cotton warp and lustre or demi-lustre weft; Italians, five-shaft weft, sateen weave, cotton warp, fine Botany weft; Cashmeres, 2/1 weft twill weave, cotton warp, fine Botany weft; Beatrice Twill, five-end (four weft and one warp) twill, cotton warp, demi-lustre weft. All authorities do not agree as to what constitutes a Union, the following definition having been met with: "Fabrics are union when composed of two materials otherwise than by blending." In the Morley (Yorkshire) trade a "Union" is a cotton warp cloth of boiled and teazled finish superficially resembling Broadcloth.