FISHING WITH THE SPIDER’S-WEB NET.
The natives are here using the curious net prepared in the manner shown in another picture.
They gathered round our little house, some in and some out, and smoked the everlasting bau-bau, keeping up the while a quiet conversation. The women with husbands made difficulties, as was to be expected. They would say to any man who showed a disposition to join the expedition: “But we want you to help us in our gardens.” One of the wives proved especially a thorn in our side. She was the worst woman we met in Papua, the possessor of a terrible tongue, and she was always setting the men against going anywhere. The other women disliked her heartily, and there were always rows when she came into camp. Not once, but twenty times, were we annoyed by these disturbances, for Gouba, her husband, believed in attempting to tame his shrew, although, alas! he never succeeded. His methods were simple and drastic. He would pick up a billet of wood, when she was half-way through a tremendous scolding, and fetch her a terrific blow over the back. Thereupon ensued Pandemonium; the other men and women would gather round jabbering, but they made no attempt to stop the beating once it had begun. The unfortunate man had another wife, and the scolding one was not always with him, but when she was there was trouble. Gouba was willing enough to stay with us, poor fellow, but Mrs. Gouba was always on the qui vive for some village dance or other. Her social engagements invariably clashed with Gouba’s industrial projects, and between them they made the camp very hot. To see her running with Gouba after her was a memorable sight. Of course, no Englishman likes to see a woman knocked about, but from what Ow-bow used to tell us, I am persuaded that Gouba was a sorely-tried man, and I should not be surprised to hear that by this time he has arranged a divorce on Henry the Eighth’s plan, and that Mrs. Gouba is now no more.
But to return to our Parliament. I finally carried my point and engaged the carriers, but, alas! it was only by committing the only act of perfidy which I can lay to my conscience in all my dealings with natives. I found that if we were to get out of the country safely I must offer some further inducement, other than the ordinary articles of trade, and accordingly, although I had no intention of contravening the Government regulations so far, I said that a gun would be included in the wages of those who went down to Pokama. When the time came for this promise to be made good, I simply explained that the Government would not permit me to give them the gun. They acquiesced quite cheerfully, and consented to receive compensation in other articles. That there was no discontent or resentment, I am persuaded, and I had ample proof of this in my final parting from my followers, which I shall relate in its proper place.
We now returned to Ekeikei, and on arrival there passed from the land of starvation to the land of abundance; hunting was once more possible, and early on the morning after our arrival we sent out our shooters, who came in loaded with cassowary, Gaura pigeon, wallaby, pig, and other spoils. The natives were in clover once again, and had a glorious time building fires, dressing the game, and preparing the food, for your Papuan’s greatest pleasure is to eat as much as he can, and in the shortest possible time, to sing, and then to sleep. Meals of Homeric generosity were devoured, and thereafter our people sat round their camp fires singing the beautiful mountain melodies of which I have already spoken. The prettiest and most soothing of all their tunes was the following, which has often with its gentle cadence lulled me to sleep in the wilds:—
At Ekeikei we had, of course, to take up many additional loads of baggage, and the resources of our staff, already severely tried, threatened to prove entirely inadequate. Further recruits were not forthcoming, so all the baggage had to be re-distributed and the bags repacked. Even when this was done, and an additional weight apportioned to each man, we found that ten carriers more would be wanted, but as these were not obtainable I decided to leave Wei-Yah with the remaining baggage until I could get down to Epa, where I trusted that my old friend Mavai would send it in relays for me to Oo-fa-fa.
At Epa things looked rather hopeless, for not only did five of my carriers bolt, leaving me saddled with their loads, but Mavai proved a broken reed. My ancient ally was no longer a white man, and for some unexplained reason had turned very uncivil. When I asked for carriers he said he had “no people,” but his village seemed as populous as ever, and the same numbers streamed in from the yam patch in the evening. I had a big talk with him over night, but could make no terms with him. Next morning Harry and I again had a long quiet talk with his Highness, and at last he relented so far that he ascended his platform, but did not don the persuasive red coat. He waxed fairly eloquent, gesticulated wildly, and at last, about 7 P.M., things took a better turn, and the first carriers consented to engage with us. Then the right honourable gentleman resumed his seat, having spoken just over half-an-hour. Next day they sulkily picked up their loads and set out. Mavai himself, believing that example was better than precept, marched with the first detachment. He himself shouldered a load. Thus we got everything away with the exception of two loads, the carriers in charge of which sat sullenly in their house. Finally, Harry and I had to go over and make these two fellows pick up their burdens, and thus we took leave of Epa.
A WEIRD TRIBAL DANCE.
The central figure wears a huge head-dress of bird of Paradise plumes surmounted by a gigantic aigrette of parrots’ feathers (to be seen in the background). The rank and file wear grass-fibre head-dresses.
The journey to Oo-fa-fa was accomplished in very sultry, trying weather, through a country that afforded little shade. The ground was stony, broken here and there with patches of wild oats and groups of eucalyptus trees, which ran up to a height of about 30 feet, and were conspicuous by their silvery bark, which was constantly peeling off like tissue paper.