With the exception of veal sweetbreads, it cannot be denied that this meat is considerably less popular in England than abroad, nor does it ever seem to appear on important menus in this country.
Of course, and the fact must not be lost sight of, English veal is admittedly inferior in quality—badly fattened, and mostly red, soft, and dry. Probably, therefore, its unpopularity may be the indirect cause of its poor quality; for it is inconceivable that a country so famous for cattle-rearing as England undoubtedly is could not produce veal equal in quality to its beef, mutton, and pork, if rearers thought it worth their while to perfect that special branch of their business. Be this as it may, almost all the best veal consumed in England comes from the Continent, principally from France, Belgium, and Holland; and, in this respect, I not only refer to the larger joints, but to those odd parts such as the head, the liver, the sweetbreads, &c., the continental quality of which is likewise very superior to that of the English produce.
[1181—SELLE DE VEAU (Relevé)]
Saddle of veal is the only Relevé of this meat which is sometimes allowed to appear on an important menu, and it is, in fact, a splendid and succulent joint.
It may be roasted, but I should urge the adoption of the braising treatment, not only as a precaution against dryness, but because of the fine stock yielded by the operation.
Whatever be the method of cooking, trim the saddle on one side, flush with the bones of the pelvis, and up to the first ribs on the other side. Then cut out the kidneys, leaving a thick layer of fat on the under fillets or “filets mignons”; pare the flank on either side, in such wise that what is left of it, when drawn under the saddle on either side, may just cover the fillets above referred to. This flank should only be drawn over the fillets after the inside of the joint has been salted; then cover the top surface of the joint with slices of bacon, and tie round with string, five or six times, that the bacon and the flank may not shift.
When the saddle is intended for only a small number of people, half of it may be used at a time; that is to say, one fillet, in which case the joint may be cut in two, lengthwise.
The procedure for braising this piece is in pursuance of the directions given under “The Braising of White Meats” (No. [248]).
[395]
]The process of braising, whether it be in respect of the saddle or other veal Relevés, such as the cushion, the loin, the neck, &c., demands particular care, must be accompanied by frequent basting, and should always be carried on with short moistening.