[1809—BOAR AND YOUNG BOAR (SANGLIER ET MARCASSIN)]
When the wild boar is over two years of age, it is no more fit to be served as food. Between one and two years it should be used with caution, and the various roebuck recipes may then be applied to it. But only the young boar less than twelve months old should be prepared in decent kitchens.
The hams of a young boar, salted and smoked, supply a very passable relevé, which allows of varying the ordinary menu. They are treated exactly like pork hams.
The saddle and the cushions may be prepared after the recipes given for saddle of roebuck, and the same holds good with the cutlets and the noisettes.
Finally, the saddle may be served cold, in a daube, when it is prepared after No. [1173].
As the various parts of the young boar are covered with fat, it is understood that they are not larded, nor do they need it.
[1810—HARE AND LEVERET (LIÈVRE ET LEVRAUT)]
As a result of one of those freaks of taste, of which I have already pointed out some few examples, hare is not nearly so highly esteemed as it deserves in England; and the fact seems all the more strange when one remembers that in many of her counties excellent specimens of the species are to be found.
Whatever be the purpose for which it is required, always select a young hare, five or six lbs. in weight. The age may be ascertained as follows:—Grasp one ear close to its extremity with both hands, and pull in opposite directions; if the ear tear, the beast is young; if it resist the strain, the hare is old, and should be set aside for soups and the preparation of [fumets] and forcemeats.