[1940—VANNEAUX (Lapwings)]

[1941—CHEVALIERS DIVERS (Various Sandpipers)]

These various birds are generally served roasted.

They may also be served “en Salmis,” but in that case the skin must be discarded in the preparation of the cullis.

They only appear on very ordinary menus, and could not be served at an important dinner.

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CHAPTER XVII
ROASTS AND SALADS

In the first part of this work I explained the fundamental principles governing the treatment of Roasts, and I now have to add only a few words to what has already been said. Recipes may be consummate in detail and in accuracy, and still they will be found wanting in the matter of Roasts; for experience alone can tell the operator whether the joint he is treating be old or young, fresh or stale; whether it must be cooked quickly or slowly, and all the theories that I might advance on this subject, though perhaps they might not be useless, would at least prove impracticable nine times out of ten.

I shall not prescribe any limit of time for Roasts, except in very special cases, and even so that limit will only be approximate.

Nothing can be made precise in the matter; long practice alone, away from books, will teach it; for book-rules can only be understood when the light of practical knowledge is focussed upon them.

[1942—ACCOMPANIMENT OF ROASTS]