| BORING A HOLE WITH A BRACE AND BIT | THE SCREW DRIVER AND HOW TO USE IT |
| HOW THE TRY SQUARE IS USED | A NAIL SET AND HOW TO HOLD IT |
| USING A MARKING GAUGE | THE RIGHT WAY TO SHARPEN A CHISEL |
Fig. 2. a few more common wood working tools
(8) A brace and five auger bits.[6] A brace and bit, as you know, is a tool to bore holes in wood with. You ought to have five bits and get them ¹⁄₄, ⁵⁄₁₆, ³⁄₈, ⁷⁄₁₆ and ¹⁄₂ an inch in diameter.
[6] When you buy auger bits get the genuine Russel Jennings.
(9) A maple or a boxwood rule; this should be a regular, 2-foot, four fold carpenter’s rule. (10) A marking gauge; the bar of the gauge is graduated in 16ths of an inch and the adjustable head of one good enough to work with is fitted with a brass thumb screw.
(11) An iron bound try-square with a 6, or better, a 9-inch blade. This is used not only to make measurements with but to try whether a thing is square or not, hence its name.
(12) Two screw drivers, one for small and the other for large screws. (13) Two double cut gimlets, one ¹⁄₈ and the other ³⁄₁₆ inch in diameter; these are useful for making holes for starting screws and the like.
(14) Four hand screws, or clamps as they are more often called; these are made of wood and are used to clamp two or more pieces of wood together when they are being bored or after they are glued. The jaws should be about 7 inches long and they should open at least 4 inches wide. They only cost a quarter apiece.
(15) A nail set; this is a steel punch for driving the head of a nail below the surface of the wood without denting it.
(16) A Washita oil-stone is the right kind to sharpen wood-working tools on; a stone ¹⁄₂ or ³⁄₄ inch thick, 2 inches wide and 4 or 5 inches long will be large enough and you should make a box with a cover to keep it in and so protect it from the dust.