Copper or galvanized iron nails and brass or galvanized iron screws should be used exclusively. Round “wire” nails will serve very well. Boat nails rivetted over burrs, clout-nails which are clinched, or plain copper nails will serve equally well, according to the purpose for which they are to be used. Where a nail is used to hold two pieces of wood together and does not pass entirely through, wire nails can be used to advantage, but if the nail goes entirely through both pieces, which is necessary to insure great strength, or where two thin pieces of wood are fastened together, rivets and burrs or clout-nails should be used.
Screws are to be avoided, for they require rather large holes, they often work loose and after getting them part way in they are liable to twist off or the slots may become so scarred that you cannot turn them out or in.
Next comes the question of material. If you purchase patterns or ready-cut material, the wood to be used will be determined by the directions furnished; but if you expect to plan and build a boat by yourself you will have to select and buy the lumber which is best adapted to your boat and which can be most readily obtained.
For planking, white cedar, white pine, mahogany, yellow pine, basswood or cypress may be used. For frames, knees, stems and sternposts, transoms and ribs there is nothing better than good, clear white oak.
For making a flat-bottomed boat or sharpie, clear white pine or cypress is the best material for the planks; cypress or white cedar should be used for the bottom, and all the timbers, frames, transom and stem should be of oak.
The size and thickness of the various pieces of lumber will vary according to the dimensions of your boat, but for boats up to twenty feet in length, 3/4 inch planking, 1 inch bottom boards and ribs, gunwales, deck timbers, etc., of oak 1 inch square will be strong enough. The transom should be of 1 inch oak, the deadwood may be of 1-1/2 or 2 inch oak or two 1 inch pieces bolted together; the keel should be of 1-1/2 inch oak, and the centerboard should be of 1 inch oak or yellow pine.
These are the extremes and the dimensions of timbers, ribs, centerboard and such parts may be reduced for smaller boats. Side planks 5/8 or even 1/2 inch thick will be very strong if more numerous ribs are used, and for small skiffs the bottom can be made of 3/4 inch stuff and the ribs may be reduced to 1/2 inch square.
It is a mistake, however, to make a boat too light, if it is to be used for sailing, for a reasonably heavy boat will have more headway, will handle better and will be more stable and seaworthy than a very light craft.
Before commencing your boat you should determine the exact dimensions. Until you are familiar with the principles of boat designing and have learned to figure out displacements, load-water lines, centers of efforts and resistance and many other technical details your best plan is to find some other boat that suits your ideas and copy her measurements.
Once you have determined on the measurements you should mark them full, or at least half, size on a smooth, flat floor or some similar surface, as you will find it far more convenient to get out the various parts from such large plans than to work from small scale drawings.